Recent posts
#21
Main Message Board / Re: conversion to propane
Last post by Ron Hill - May 16, 2024, 12:31:31 PMCliff : The standard transom C34s have the propane bottle in a box that sets on a platform that's on top of the aft water tank. Not sure where the "sugar scoop" transom boats have their propane box?? The box is vented aft thru the transom.
A thought
A thought
#22
Main Message Board / Re: Help Please! I’m completel...
Last post by Ron Hill - May 16, 2024, 12:25:58 PMKeel : 5/8" hose is what you need.
I don't know the routing of that hose to the raw water thru hull, but if your hose does NOT make any acute turns you do not need a wire reinforced hose and you can get a replacement hose at an auto parts store!! Heck of a lot cheaper!! $$
Why are you replacing that hose??
A thought
I don't know the routing of that hose to the raw water thru hull, but if your hose does NOT make any acute turns you do not need a wire reinforced hose and you can get a replacement hose at an auto parts store!! Heck of a lot cheaper!! $$
Why are you replacing that hose??
A thought
#23
Main Message Board / Re: Help Please! I’m completel...
Last post by robbjd - May 16, 2024, 12:17:08 PMI think you need 5/8" hose. Your Sherwood pump has 1/2" ports.
#24
Main Message Board / Help Please! I’m completely lo...
Last post by KeelsonGraham - May 16, 2024, 11:57:21 AMI think I must be going nuts. I'm trying to replace what I believe to be the hose from the freshwater pump to the HX. That's the hose circled in red in the attached photo? Is that right?
Because if it is, then I ordered the correct part from CD, the hose with a 7/8th in internal diameter. But when I tried to fit it on today it's way too big. The existing pipe is on there at the moment and it fits just fine (with its smaller ID).
I don't have some non-standard HX, so whatever is in there at the moment must be standard. So how in hell is it not a 7/8th ID hose????
Because if it is, then I ordered the correct part from CD, the hose with a 7/8th in internal diameter. But when I tried to fit it on today it's way too big. The existing pipe is on there at the moment and it fits just fine (with its smaller ID).
I don't have some non-standard HX, so whatever is in there at the moment must be standard. So how in hell is it not a 7/8th ID hose????
#25
Main Message Board / Re: conversion to propane
Last post by Patches - May 16, 2024, 11:46:53 AMHi Cliff:
I also have a Mark 1.25. My boat has the propane locker in the aft seat locker—mounted on the platform on the starboard side. These can be purchased from Catalina Direct (white with blue top) and take the smaller size propane bottles which can be purchased cheaply at any RV supply place. Mine vents from the locker out through the stern to the swim step.
I've never run out of propane during a standard 3 week cruise. I carry a spare bottle in the port lazarette just in case.
Patches
I also have a Mark 1.25. My boat has the propane locker in the aft seat locker—mounted on the platform on the starboard side. These can be purchased from Catalina Direct (white with blue top) and take the smaller size propane bottles which can be purchased cheaply at any RV supply place. Mine vents from the locker out through the stern to the swim step.
I've never run out of propane during a standard 3 week cruise. I carry a spare bottle in the port lazarette just in case.
Patches
#26
Main Message Board / conversion to propane
Last post by crieders - May 16, 2024, 11:09:02 AMI still have the original CNG installation
would like to convert to Propane but of course do not have a propane locker and that boat has the simple sugar scoop stern, no walk thru
so where to put it, is my concern. Thanks
would like to convert to Propane but of course do not have a propane locker and that boat has the simple sugar scoop stern, no walk thru
so where to put it, is my concern. Thanks
#27
Main Message Board / Re: Shore Power Circuit Breake...
Last post by Craig Illman - May 16, 2024, 03:41:07 AMTom - On a boat of your vintage, CTY didn't install a separate breaker (from the panel) closer to the shore power receptacle as specified in in current ABYC standards.
Craig
Craig
#28
Main Message Board / Re: Keel Bedding Survey
Last post by KWKloeber - May 15, 2024, 10:49:23 PMQuote from: High Current on May 14, 2024, 08:26:16 PMMy main reason to re-bed NOW would be to preserve integrity of the bolts. BUT if I weren't going through this process I probably wouldn't be worrying about it...Correction,
The Main reason ..... IF I EVEN NEED to rebed is...
I don't understand the foregone conclusion that you need to rebed (i.e., the bolts are compromised)?
QuoteDoes it crush the solid glass or only the wood core that I don't have?But the entire section isn't compressed, just the topmost (floated?) layer of resin gets compromised.
at 105 ft-lb = ~10,000 lbf
≈ 25 MPa of stress.
https://www.boatdesign.net/attachments/fiberglass-strength-tests-pdf.148849/
Shows that the compressive strength of cured fiberglass resin is 55-mPa.
For a nominal 3/4" ID washer the stress @ 10,000#f would be ~30-mPa (if the nut doesn't bend the fender washer.) Close enough to be possible considering that, naturally, strength depends on resin/hardener quality/characteristics and the quality of application.
#29
Main Message Board / Re: ? Sudden overheating?
Last post by KWKloeber - May 15, 2024, 08:32:06 PMCraig
The more I remotely wrap my feeble brain think about this, the more it leans toward the gauge.
The Teleflex troubleshooting is checking only two extreme circumstances and nothing in between, like a "norm" midpoint.
It **could** be that the gauge pins high at anything above infinite resistance (when the S terminal is disconnected.)
Or it could read significantly high when the S resistance "says normal."
I couldn't see the forest -- (unless you have access to some resistors in the 50-ohm range to completely bypass the sender,) remove the sender and hook it up to the S and G terminals right at the gauge.
If she still pins high (and the sender has a reasonable resistance value for the ambient temp,) your gauge is likely kaput. ***
***I say "likely" because it's a boat and we know that there are never any absolutes!
The more I remotely wrap my feeble brain think about this, the more it leans toward the gauge.
The Teleflex troubleshooting is checking only two extreme circumstances and nothing in between, like a "norm" midpoint.
It **could** be that the gauge pins high at anything above infinite resistance (when the S terminal is disconnected.)
Or it could read significantly high when the S resistance "says normal."
I couldn't see the forest -- (unless you have access to some resistors in the 50-ohm range to completely bypass the sender,) remove the sender and hook it up to the S and G terminals right at the gauge.
If she still pins high (and the sender has a reasonable resistance value for the ambient temp,) your gauge is likely kaput. ***
***I say "likely" because it's a boat and we know that there are never any absolutes!
#30
Main Message Board / Re: ? Sudden overheating?
Last post by KWKloeber - May 15, 2024, 08:00:33 PMQuote from: Schulcb on January 14, 2024, 10:13:57 AMAm I correct that if the sender isn't grounding to the engine (teflon tape), I would get a high temp reading?The gauge **should** pin low if the sender is not grounded to the engine block (or read low if the ground has high resistance.)
When the gauge S terminal is grounded it **should** pin high.
Quote from: Schulcb on May 15, 2024, 03:15:23 PMIf the ground to the instrument panel is the culprit, wouldn't all of the gauges be giving incorrect readings?The voltmeter could read OK because there is very low current to the panel gauges, so virtually no voltage loss.
The Tach "reads" the pulses from the alternator (the frequency of the AC output, not the amplitude.) A voltage above about 7v will drive the tach, so it may read ok.
(I have no clue how your fuel gauge is wired) but it was common for CTY to run a separate ground from the fuel gauge direct to the tank bonding screw, so that may read OK. You should be able to see if it has a separate ground.
Try checking the panel ground wire - for resistance to the engine block (is that where the ground is established for the panel?) You'd need to run a temporary wire back up to the panel to use as reference (or use the old temp sender wire if it is still there.) HOWEVER, I'm not sure how the panel ground will affect the gauge reading. but I would not **think** it would make the gauge pin high. That's something I have not run across before.
I find this good for troubleshooting
https://www.harborfreight.com/30-ft-retractable-test-leads-58024.html
I just wish that it was 16 gauge rather than 18.
I presume that your Temp alarm works? Grounding the engine temp switch S wire to the block **should** sound the alarm.
This keeps pointing to a short to ground in the S wire but there is resistance there. Maybe an intermittently bad gauge, but that is a huge coincidence that it goes intermittently bad between removing and reconnecting the S wire.
Does she have the Westerbeke black plugs on the harness (at the rear of the engine?)
This is real headscratcher since you already replaced the S wire.