Messages

Hi

See the Manuals: http://www.c34.org/manuals/index.htm

Easiest way to tension the rigging properly:

go sailing

observe leeward shrouds somewhat loose

tighten them halfway

tack

tighten the other side the other half

The idea is to balance the tension on both sides and to avoid adjusting the turnbuckles when under any load, including at the dock.

Nice idea, great pictures.  This is a continuation from: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2742.0

Thanks, Fred, yes we did, see: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2738.0

One of the earliest Projects: http://www.c34.org/projects/projects-counter-top.html

Didn't replace with one sink, although there seems to be some advantages of having two: one wet, one dry for washing and one for drying.

and have since moved to the forward cabin.  It's HUGE and so way wide that I have to send telegraph messages just to say "goodnight!"

Thought I'd bring this up again for grins and giggles, since there's been so many technical disussions lately   

Dave's reply was very good, and summarized what we've been explaining.

Noise is NOT a problem if you sleep up forward   There have been many discussions about whether the aft cabin is a garage or a hang-out.     Try a search on "garage."  Anyway, even back in the prehistory days when we slept back there, the fridge noise did not bother us, in fact, we never heard it.

On other thing to keep in mind.  I mentioned having to replace the fridge fan, twice.  It is IMPERATIVE that you maintain access to the side of the fridge that has the two screws that hold the fan frame on, or else you'll have a devil of a time swapping out a fan in the future.  With access it's a five minutes job, without, it could take all day. 

The fan sits inside a frame and it's attached to the frame with four machine screws with unaccessible nuts.  Those machine screws need to stay IN until you take the whole frame off.  You remove the frame with two sheet-metal screws that go through the side of the housing.  Make sure you can get to them with a screwdriver.  Also remember to back off all of any access screws and coat them with Lanocote before you install the unit so you can remove the screws later when you need to do so.

Earl

From a purely analytical approach, without "hearing" your noise.

1.  Where's it coming from?  Inside the boat would be a possible, but not necessarily resultant, transmission issue, since the Hurth is inside the boat.  Outside would lead to thinking of the bearing.

2.  Was the cutless bearing ever changed by the PO?

3.  Have you checked and/or changed the transmission fluid?  Usually, if it looks good, it should be good, so you may want to check that first.

4.  Have you run over any sand recently?  A few months ago, a friend wrote and said he'd just had his cutless bearing replaced.  It worked fine for a few months, then all of a sudden started making strange noises.  I asked him if he'd gone aground.  Hmmm...  I suggested he use the boat, and find some clean water and go back and forth.

5.  Is there any reason to believe that the shaft was NOT straightened?  Who did the work?  Still under warranty?

6.  Is the engine aligned?  Have you checked the plates?  Is the stern tube intact?  Is the stuffing box lubricated and working properly?

There are all sorts of "things" back there.

Before you spend that kinda $$, I would recommend seeing if you can start narrowing down the issues, and reduce dependency on a yard that seems to want to spend your money.

Good luck, and keep in touch.

FUEL PUMP:  see: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2515.0

Not a big deal.

WATER PUMP:  the seals do go.  Just replace the whole pump.  Do a search on pump -- you'll find it, unless you've read it before.  (I did the homework for the first part,  even Steven).

Keep 'em.

Do a search on Marelon -- you'll learn a lot.  Plastic is different than Marelon.  M is OK, pl is NOT.

BTW, ours are doiong fine after 20 years!

last year i replaces traveler line to 3/8, much better to pull

Just please remember what I said above:  "For instance, I used 3/8 line on my new traveler cars to start out, because I thought they'd "hand" better as thicker lines,  but found they expanded with age and bound up on the sheaves, so I switched to a smaller 5/16 line.  While not easier "hand", they run freely through the blocks and work just fine." 

[enlarge your house bank]

Our Adler Barbour was mounted as OEM on a plywood shelf in the lazarette, starboard side, just aft of the water tank.  The copper tubing runs underneath the aft cabin, behind the stove and into the box.  The evaporator is a vertical model, located on the aft face of the box, toward the midships side, with the thermostat on the aft face outboard.  The refrigerant lines are insulated with some sort of "gunk" as they go through the wall.  The supply line is insulated with black foam pipe insulation, probably 1/2 inch size.

Our box is NOT insulated.  We've used it in California Delta heat successfully on our 2004 cruise, although it does cool down at night ( from 90 to 55), and sometimes we've turned it off at night to reduce amp consumption.  Insulation is a real help, but I haven't found it necessary, based on our use and an ample house bank (315 ah).  Although we still have the OEM alternator, the Automac gives us a boost for charging.  Yeah, yeah, yeah, I'm still working on the alternator replacement (have the materials and equipment, not the time, yet).

The evaporator is long enough to require that the top shelf plastic be cut to fit around it.  The vertical ice cube trays are a great idea and work just fine -- they should come with an aluminum extrusion "holder" which is piece of aluminum in a U shape so the bottom lies flat, one side against one wall of the base of the evaporator, so the other side of the U leaves enough space to "jam" the vertical tray between it and the other wall of the evaporator.  It's a neat and simple idea that keeps the ice cube tray standing upright; make sure you get it when you order.

The only issues we've had with our AB unit is having to replace the condenser fan -- twice in 8 years for us, don't know if the PO had to.  Costs about $50, and I put them in myself.

I'm not sure if the refrigerant hoses are long enough to place the evaporator anywhere else in the box but the aft wall, if your compressor unit is placed in the lazarette.

One thing our surveyor did note is that if the refrigerant pipes go behind the stove they could be subject to damage from the gimbaled stove.  We don't loosen the stove ever when we're moving, so it's not an issue for us.

If you read the old Tech Notes, you'll find some have placed the compressor under the settee seat forward of the mast.  I've got part of my house bank there.   In any event, make sure you have adequate ventilation.  For us the lazarette works just fine, and we keep the area around the unit free from anything that we "stuff down there!"

The most important consideration when adding refrigeration:  enlarge your house bank battery capacity and DO NOT add a separate battery dedicated to the refrigeration unit.  Maximize your house bank and work everything on the DC side off the house bank, with a separate start battery.

There have been many posts on refrigeration, with many members offering sage advice on the advantages and disadvantages of different refrigeration systems: Frigoboat, Isotherm, Norcold, A/B, air vs. water cooled, etc.  Your boat, your choice.  We've enjoyed the A/B with no problems other than the fans for eight years now, and the unit is 20 years old!

You can ask for more than that (10-15 from ANYWHERE works for us!!!!)   

Good luck, sounds like you found a "keeper."

What's the hull #?

Here's a picture of the traveler lines led aft (with the dodger off).  Left click on the picture to make it larger.   There is the roller on the aft end of the track that was installed by Garhauer right on the track end fittings, and then the line (red tracer) leads to a bullseye fair lead about halfway aft, then to the cam cleat.  The purpose of this picture is to show the traveler line led to the fairlead to avoid a slit in the dodger window.  With this fairlead, you can simply have a single hole or grommet in the dodger window.  This cam cleat was later relocated to the aft end of the cabintop edge, instead of being a bit forward of the edge.  Dave Sanner had earlier posted a picture of his cam cleats -- they were the swivels, which make for a much easier purchase during use.  See: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2417.0

Jeff

Glad it's getting to be springtime.

Running the mainsheet directly down just simply reduces the friction.  I think I got the idea from Ron Hill.  It has been working just fine for us.  I purchased new Garhauer blocks for all the mainsheet blocks.  I think I mentioned that I should have told Bill and Guido that the mast base block should have the fitting to fit in the mast step pins, but I found a D shackle that worked for the regular lock end fitting.  Bear with me, it's been awhile, but it shows in the picture.

I think the reefing lines are 3/8 inch, although they were there when I bought the boat.  Surprisingly, great strength may not be needed for the reefing lines, rather figure out whether or not you can "hand' them.  Sometime smaller is better, sometimes you need the thicker line to get a good grip (yeah, ME talking about getting a good grip, right... )  For instance, I used 3/8 line on my new traveler cars to start out, because I thought they'd "hand" better as thicker lines,  but found they expanded with age and bound up on the sheaves, so I switched to a smaller 5/16 line.  While not easier "hand", they run freely through the blocks and work just fine.  You could go to 5/16, I would think, for your reefing lines.  Also check the "manuals" tab at www.c34.org.  The manual should have the Catalina reefing line sizes on one of the pages in the manual.  Just be sure to check on the line sizes that your sheet stoppers will handle - they usually have a range of lines sizes with which they will work.

As far as the length of the reefing lines, that's really up to you, and, as I said, they were there when I bought Aquavite.  As always, measure twice, cut once, and I recommend buying at least an extra two feet of line, you can always cut 'em down later, but they're sure hard to make any longer.

Sorry for the delay in answering - just got a new computer and am still loading (and trying to find) stuff.

Doug,

Not sure on what your goal here is, but we haven't changed the original setup on our #224, 1986 setup, even when cruising out for over a week.  Both plastic inserts are installed.

For day-sails and normal use, we just put the stuff on the upper shelf.

For longer periods, we stash excess stuff that needs to stay cold on the lower shelf, and then load the upper shelf.

Yes, sometimes it's "rearranging time" but we haven't felt any need to make any modifications to a simple setup that works.

Cutting the upper shelf in half would be a good idea for flexibility, but you still have to move half the stuff anyway.  Our PO did that.  Cut is athwartships, midway in length.

We have never needed to put anything below the lower shelf, but that sure is a lot of additional storage space.