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#71
Main Message Board / Re: Holding tank questions
Last post by Noah - July 05, 2024, 05:51:36 PMDo you have an owner's manual? If not, there is one on this website. I believe, a macerator pump was factory standard on all C34s, regardless of what toilet was used. Things may have been changed on your boat over the years. The top of the tank should have the vent hose to the stanchion.
#72
Main Message Board / Holding tank questions
Last post by melp64 - July 05, 2024, 04:39:45 PMI have compared what I have and the manual and the articles on the holding tank. I think that was written by Jon W. As I am working my way thru the boat I am trying to clean everything. I have not ventured to close to the holding tank for reasons you can imagine. But today I decided to take a look and see what kinda of crap I will be getting into (the pun was intended). When I first opened I noticed that on the top of the tank Pic 2 there is a small opening with no plug is this supposed to be like that
The first picture is the end of the tank there is a 1.5 hose from the deck to the bottom of the tank, 1.5 line to the top of the tank coming from the head, and a 1 line coming from the stanchion which is disconnected pic 3. shouldn't that line be connected to something?
In the article is shows a macerator pump on the end of the tank mine doesn't have any pump is that dependent on the type of toilet you have?
The first picture is the end of the tank there is a 1.5 hose from the deck to the bottom of the tank, 1.5 line to the top of the tank coming from the head, and a 1 line coming from the stanchion which is disconnected pic 3. shouldn't that line be connected to something?
In the article is shows a macerator pump on the end of the tank mine doesn't have any pump is that dependent on the type of toilet you have?
#73
Main Message Board / Re: Tank vents
Last post by Noah - July 05, 2024, 10:02:36 AM #74
Main Message Board / Re: Tank vents
Last post by Ron Hill - July 05, 2024, 09:52:03 AMGuys : I don't recall the exact cost $? of the 2 vented stainless backing plates, but it was nominal and SOLVED the Problem!!!
A thought
A thought
#75
Main Message Board / Re: Hot water tank funky smell
Last post by Breakin Away - July 05, 2024, 07:44:30 AMI know this is an old post, but I could not get time to reply sooner:
I do an overnight shock and purge every spring as soon as I launch. If I don't do it soon enough I regret it. This year I was too busy, and two weeks after launch I regretted it. In these cases, the foul odor always starts in the hot water tank. I always assumed it's because the of the heat cycling - every time you run the engine the hot water heats up, and the speeds along the growth of any minute amount of biological challenge. So it's only a matter of time. Whenever we take a trip and need to wash the dishes, we always try to use up the hot water to prevent it from brewing up any bad stuff over time.
Many people add extra chlorine to their tanks. I don't believe in that. If you're filling with municipal water it already has chlorine, so you could over-chlorinate beyond the EPA's 6 ppm limit, which could corrode metal hardware and cause brittleness in you plastic tubes, fittings, and pump impellers. So I give a hefty dose of chlorine for 10-24 hours, which isn't long enough to cause any damage.
I choose to follow Peggie Hall's recipe and instructions, which can be found here: http://www.trudelutt.com/linker/phall_freshwater.pdf
"3/4 dl of bleach per 10 liters of water" = 0.75 l per 100 liters = 0.75% v/v. Presumably, she is referring to standard bleach, which is 5.25% w/w sodium hypochlorite, so the concentration of the active ingredient is about 0.04% or roughly 400 ppm (note that this is sort of a blend of %volume and %weight, so it's very approximate)
In imperial units, this translates to 1 oz. of standard 5.25% bleach per US gallon of tank capacity (easy to remember). Multiply this by 0.88 for 6% bleach, 0.61 for 7.5% bleach, 0.45 for 8.25% bleach (be sure to read the label for concentration)]
28 gallon tank: 17 oz of 7.5% bleach
42 gallon tank: 26 oz of 7.5% bleach
I do an overnight shock and purge every spring as soon as I launch. If I don't do it soon enough I regret it. This year I was too busy, and two weeks after launch I regretted it. In these cases, the foul odor always starts in the hot water tank. I always assumed it's because the of the heat cycling - every time you run the engine the hot water heats up, and the speeds along the growth of any minute amount of biological challenge. So it's only a matter of time. Whenever we take a trip and need to wash the dishes, we always try to use up the hot water to prevent it from brewing up any bad stuff over time.
Many people add extra chlorine to their tanks. I don't believe in that. If you're filling with municipal water it already has chlorine, so you could over-chlorinate beyond the EPA's 6 ppm limit, which could corrode metal hardware and cause brittleness in you plastic tubes, fittings, and pump impellers. So I give a hefty dose of chlorine for 10-24 hours, which isn't long enough to cause any damage.
I choose to follow Peggie Hall's recipe and instructions, which can be found here: http://www.trudelutt.com/linker/phall_freshwater.pdf
"3/4 dl of bleach per 10 liters of water" = 0.75 l per 100 liters = 0.75% v/v. Presumably, she is referring to standard bleach, which is 5.25% w/w sodium hypochlorite, so the concentration of the active ingredient is about 0.04% or roughly 400 ppm (note that this is sort of a blend of %volume and %weight, so it's very approximate)
In imperial units, this translates to 1 oz. of standard 5.25% bleach per US gallon of tank capacity (easy to remember). Multiply this by 0.88 for 6% bleach, 0.61 for 7.5% bleach, 0.45 for 8.25% bleach (be sure to read the label for concentration)]
28 gallon tank: 17 oz of 7.5% bleach
42 gallon tank: 26 oz of 7.5% bleach
- Be sure to use "plain bleach", no fragrances or anti-splash additives.
- No-name bleach is usually better than Clorox, since they often add stuff you don't want like "Cloromax" polymer additive. You want just plain bleach.
- Limit shock time to no more than 24 hours, otherwise corrosion damage or brittleness/cracking of plastic tubing, seals, and pumps may result.
#76
Main Message Board / Re: New Genoa. 135 vs 150/155
Last post by Breakin Away - July 05, 2024, 07:22:56 AMHere's a Facebook post I made a few days ago. Let me know if you're interested and I can supply more details, however I assume you're too far away to inspect and purchase:
I have a 150 Genoa that came with my 2001 C34MkII tall mast boat when I purchased her in 2016. I wanted a smaller, easier to manage headsail, so I purchased a new 135 right away. The 150 has sat unused in my air conditioned house ever since. It was used for 14 seasons (2001-2014) and is in great shape with a Navy blue UV strip and 4mm foot line for my factory original roller furler. I'll be moving at the end of the year, so I am considering selling it. It's not technically for sale yet (I don't have an asking price yet), but thought I'd put the word out and see if there is interest. My boat is in Rock Hall, MD, and the sail is at my home near Philadelphia. I would prefer not to ship it, and would want to meet up somewhere so you could inspect the sail before purchasing, so I assume this would be for people in the northeast/mid Atlantic region with some willingness to travel to inspect/purchase. Let me know your thoughts.
I have a 150 Genoa that came with my 2001 C34MkII tall mast boat when I purchased her in 2016. I wanted a smaller, easier to manage headsail, so I purchased a new 135 right away. The 150 has sat unused in my air conditioned house ever since. It was used for 14 seasons (2001-2014) and is in great shape with a Navy blue UV strip and 4mm foot line for my factory original roller furler. I'll be moving at the end of the year, so I am considering selling it. It's not technically for sale yet (I don't have an asking price yet), but thought I'd put the word out and see if there is interest. My boat is in Rock Hall, MD, and the sail is at my home near Philadelphia. I would prefer not to ship it, and would want to meet up somewhere so you could inspect the sail before purchasing, so I assume this would be for people in the northeast/mid Atlantic region with some willingness to travel to inspect/purchase. Let me know your thoughts.
#77
Main Message Board / Re: #gpt_question_subje
Last post by Ted Pounds - July 05, 2024, 07:01:44 AMSounds like a deck leak somewhere.... You need to add your year, model (MK I or II) and where you sail to your signature block. It helps us help you better.
#78
Main Message Board / Re: Large Jib Question
Last post by Ted Pounds - July 05, 2024, 06:56:59 AMMore sail area equals more drive in lighter air. Where do you sail? Best to talk to local sailers, especially ones with the same size boat. Even better is to work with a local sailmaker.
#79
Main Message Board / Re: New Genoa. 135 vs 150/155
Last post by Ted Pounds - July 05, 2024, 06:52:17 AMSailed and raced my 34 for 14 years on Lake Michigan. Get the 150. The main is the first sail you want to reef. For the few times you reef the 150 a good foam luff will suffice.
#80
Main Message Board / Re: Tank vents
Last post by Ted Pounds - July 05, 2024, 06:47:12 AMQuote from: Ron Hill on July 01, 2024, 09:38:39 AMGuys : The problem with the C34 vented stanchions is the LACK of Backing Plates!!!.
The contributing factor is that those 2 stanchions are at the widest portion of the hull and "helpers" on the dock tend to fend off by pushing on those stanchions!!!
Just contact Garhauer and get two backing plates and as mentioned bed them in with butyl rubber!!
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ THIS! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I made my own backing plates out of aluminum bar stock. The key is to spread the load underneath the deck.... My guess is that the Garhauer plates would do that even better than my homemade ones. Probably money well spent.
a few thoughts