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Messages - Bob K

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Main Message Board / Re: Cockpit Shower Valve Replacement - 1992 C34
« on: August 19, 2014, 05:27:51 PM »
Another place to look is online RV parts stores.   I was researching for the same replacement a few years ago and found several candidates.   I did not replace because the faucet was not actually bad. Long story!! 

Main Message Board / Re: Refrigeration
« on: August 24, 2013, 07:30:24 PM »
I replaced my similarly aged AB with a new AB this past spring.
Am very happy with it. Read my earlier post.

Main Message Board / Re: macerator...
« on: July 18, 2013, 07:28:43 PM »
I recently replaced my macerator, and before I disconnected any hoses, I did the following: pumped out and flushed 3 times, then used the intermittently working macerator to pump out a bit more, and then to get the last I used one of those $5 Harbor Freight orange hand pumps.   Ziptied the pump input hose along side a small diameter metal rod to make it rigid, fed the hose/rod through the vent connection and positioned it at the bottom of the tank.  I was able to pump out almost a gallon more. When I finally disconnected the macerator hoses I only got drips from the tank.   

By the way, the reason I had to repair was not for the intermittent macerator - It is used maybe once a year after tank flush.  The real problem was a slow leak developed between the threaded connection at the macerator input and the 1 1/2" nylon elbow.  When I removed the assembly the connection was very loose.  It was nowhere near that loose when originally installed about 5 years ago.  I believe the nylon elbow worked its way loose with help from repeated heating from my battery charger mounted in same compartment next to holding tank – about 12” away from the macerator.  I never realized how hot it gets in that unvented compartment when the charger is full on.   So I am now looking for a new place to mount my charger!  I also used teflon grease instead of teflon tape this time around, as that may help keep things sealed better over time than the tape.

A quick note to announce a happy ending to my reefer saga.  I called Adler Barbour, and they put me in touch with a local shop who performs warranty repair for them.  I was visited within days, and it was confirmed the charge was low.  Now have a full charge and love the cold and frosty with much less noise and lower power consumption.  Kudos to Adler Barbour and Sherrod Marine who performed the service.

I took your suggestion and kept the fridge on overnight with ice cube trays filled.  I set the thermostat to mid-range (4).  Today I checked and I did indeed have ice cubes!!  One tray not fully frozen.  So it does work better than I originally thought.  Next test is when we stock the fridge and see if it stays cold and compressor cycles properly.  (BTW Stu, the evaporator is exactly same as the old one -  the vertical one with the standup ice trays.)

I'll post any final updates.  Thanks all for the help!!

I just installed a new Adler Barbour CU-100 Coldmachine  and companion VD-150 evaporator.  These replace the OEM Adler Barbour DCM-12 and SFV-1 evaporator.   I hooked it up last night and my hopes for a nice cold fridge were kind of deflated.  It seems to work, but does not seem as cold as the old unit.  The evaporator frosted only on the rear side, whereas the old unit caused frost on both front and back.  I had it on for maybe an hour and the front side never frosted.

Both new and old units have similar cooling capacity specs, so my first thought was that the new unit is not working correctly.  But……after thinking about it, I noted many differences that would justify lower performance of the new one.  The new unit is smaller overall, has a smaller compressor, is lighter weight, runs on R-134, and draws less current.   I know little about refrigeration but these all seem to point to lower cooling capacity when compared to the old.  Note that the new evaporator looks identical to the old one in every aspect except part number, so I don’t really see that as a variable.  The unit came pre-charged - I have no means of checking charge level, but there was negligible charge loss during hook-up.   It did give me a brief fault on initial start-up which did not reappear.  Fault code was over-charge!!.  Not sure if I believe it unless it occurs again. 

I didn’t get a chance to run the unit long enough to stabilize the fridge temp and start the compressor cycling.  Won’t be able to do that until it is loaded with food on upcoming trip.  So I am wondering if I should plan ice runs into our itinerary.

Has anyone else made similar fridge replacement?  How does your performance compare to mine?


Main Message Board / Interesting fix for rudder play
« on: March 09, 2013, 06:07:42 PM »
Just saw this advertised by Catalina Direct -  a method to "inject" new rudder bearings!.  A mixture of epoxy and graphite is injected into the rudder tube while the rudder is installed.   Still requires rudder removal before-hand, to wax the rudder shaft so it doesn't stick to the injected epoxy.  Sounds easier than other fixes.....if it works.   And what do you do if the wax doesn't work????  :cry4`  Wish I saw this when I had my rudder off last year.  Has anyone tried this or anything similar? 

Main Message Board / Re: Bomar Saloon Hatch Model Number
« on: January 08, 2013, 06:29:17 PM »
I had the same issue a few years ago.  I bought a hinge rebuild kit and that solved the problem.  I purchased from Florida Rigging and Hydraulics.

Main Message Board / Re: Bomar Saloon Hatch Model Number
« on: December 19, 2012, 05:59:05 PM »
I did miss that post.  A likely ending for a project like that!

Main Message Board / Re: Water in the bilge
« on: December 18, 2012, 06:52:08 PM »
My mystery leak from several years ago came from the cockpit cubby on the port side. There is a seam along the bottom just below the teak trim ring. Mine leaked occasionally (actually rarely - only with an east wind which blew plenty of rain into the cubby).  Would flow down into aft cabin, soak the cushion, and then work its way down.  Cleaned and sealed the leak it with plenty of Lifecaulk, and it held for 5 years.  Had to redo this past year.

Another consideration - Boats on the hard are often set with the bow higher than the transom to ensure the cockpit drains properly.  So rain water might be be running in a different direction than when hull is sittting proper in the water. 

Main Message Board / Re: Bomar Saloon Hatch Model Number
« on: December 18, 2012, 06:34:14 PM »
Hi Ron,
Mine is definitely a Bomar -  the Bomar label is still on it .  I saw an old post of yours where you also did a lens replacement, and removed the hatch so you could work on it at home.  How did you remove yours?

Main Message Board / Re: Bomar Saloon Hatch Model Number
« on: December 16, 2012, 05:02:46 PM »
How is your lens replacement project coming along?  I have to do same for mine, and am trying to determine best way to remove hatch so I can do the work in my basement over the winter.  I was planning on removing the hinge screws on the underside of the hatch top so I could take the top half home, but the screws look hopelessly siezed.  So other options are to remove whole hatch, or pop out the hinge pins, though the two hinges seem too close together to allow that.  Or I can just do the work on the hatch while it is on the boat.   Do you have a recommendation?

Am considering purchasing this anchor.   Does any MK I owner have this anchor mounted on the stock bow roller?   I understand the bail would need to be replaced, but am wondering if that is all I need to do.


Main Message Board / Re: Scupper Drains and Dark Streaks
« on: April 13, 2012, 06:26:03 PM »
If you opt for the clear plastic hose pieces, check them for clogs every so often and keep a bunch of spares on hand.   Mine get knocked out when rafted up, and by the springline at the dock.

Main Message Board / Re: Stern Pulpit with Seats w/ many Flix
« on: March 30, 2012, 06:20:31 PM »
That's great.  I may do the same.  Thanks Brent,

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