Join the C34 Association Today!
[C34 Home] [C34Tech Notes] [C34 Tech Wiki] [Join!]
Please login or register.
Advanced search  

News:

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Bob K

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 13
1
Main Message Board / Re: Rudder misaligned from factory?
« on: June 21, 2020, 07:16:21 PM »
Ken,
Plumbness if that’s a word! Sight along each side the rudder and keel.   Looks like bottom of rudder is slightly to port.  Which matches with the rudder post being slightly to starboard on top as viewed in the access port.  But so little, and who’s to say the keel is perfectly set on center? 

2
Main Message Board / Re: Rudder misaligned from factory?
« on: June 11, 2020, 07:37:17 PM »
So back in April when I posted my offset rudder post pic, I said I would take a closer look at the rudder before launching.  I did, and think I saw a bit of offset rudder.  I sighted the rudder against the keel. Very difficult to tell.  In the end, there may be a slight misalignment, but it won’t make it to the fix it list or cause any worry.

3
Main Message Board / Re: Rudder misaligned from factory?
« on: April 13, 2020, 06:03:46 PM »
forget to mention...... the emergency tiller DOES fit :clap :clap

4
Main Message Board / Re: Rudder misaligned from factory?
« on: April 13, 2020, 06:02:17 PM »
I have Mk1.5 hull 1192, and have a very similar offset.  I noticed it years ago (2009) when I dropped the rudder to repair the seal between the post and rudder. 
At the time I verified the rudder was straight.  I did not try to figure out why the deck plate did not line up with it.    My quadrant also looked like yours due to a leak at the deck plate lock handle.   I replaced the entire access plate at the time.  Also cleaned and painted the quadrant. And blocked off the the inside of the rudder tube and epoxy sealed, so any future leaks would not allow water to go down the tube and into the rudder assembly.

This past year I noticed the deck plate leaking again, this time around the gasket, so I purchased what I thought was going to be a new o-ring seal from the deck plate mfr.  Instead they sent me a 24" length of gasket which I am supposed to fit and trim to size and butt the edges against each other.   and hope it doesn't leak.   Have not yet installed it.  Since I'm still not in the water, I'll take a look again next time I can get to the marina (who knows?) , and see if I can figure out the mystery offset.
So my advice for now is to not worry about the offset.  And fix the leak.

5
Main Message Board / Re: MK1 in anchor locker windlass install
« on: January 27, 2020, 12:38:03 PM »
Cliff,
Do you have any pix of that VW10 installed?

6
Main Message Board / Re: Starter Push-Button Replacement
« on: May 30, 2019, 05:59:19 PM »
Thanks for the info, all.  I will report back my findings, hopefully successful. 
Ken, the Cole Hersee 35A looks like a very good switch.  It has a gasket sealed case and comes with the much ballyhooed rubber cap.  At $15.99 from Defender, it is a great deal.  BTW, I misspoke when I said I replaced the starter ground cable.  I meant the negative battery cable (at bell housing).  :D

7
Main Message Board / Starter Push-Button Replacement
« on: May 29, 2019, 06:20:55 PM »
I am getting ready to track down the cause of recent starting problems, where I push the start button and nothing happens.  (No solenoid click, but can see voltage drop on the panel meter when switch is depressed).   I want to replace the push-button starter switch, as it is original, and easy to do.   I suspect the problem is voltage drop in the start wire to the solenoid.  Will also replace the in-line fuse. (I already replaced the starter ground cable when this problem appeared one time last year). Will try to identify the culprit prior to making any changes. Since the problem is infrequent, I am sure it won't occur during my troubleshoot.  But I'll take voltage drop measurements anyway.  I have the M35 engine with wiring harness upgrade.

I am looking for recommendations for a good quality replacement switch.  I saw one on Catalina Direct website, but maybe there is a better one out there??

Thanks

8
Main Message Board / Re: NMEA 2000 network cables
« on: July 31, 2017, 04:41:44 PM »
Sorry for the vague initial post!   Was in a bit of a hurry at the time.   My chartplotter is  a Garmin 721 - brand new.   Want to connect it to my almost new Raymarine i50/i60 Depth Speed/Wind instruments.   The Garmin is NMEA2000 (N2K) .  The Raymarine is Seatalk ng, which is their version of N2K.   Connectors are a bit different to accommodate backward compatibility.  But they should all talk together on an N2K network, using one adapter cable to go between the two types of connectors.

So I initially priced the cable network (requires a backbone cable, a spur cable, a spur ng to N2K adapter cable, Tees or  a 5 way connector, and terminations).  Using ng cable type, the total cost was close to $200.  Unbelievable, right??  For some wire and cheap plastic connectors.  So I then looked into pricing standard N2K cables, as there are multiple manufacturers,.   Didn't do much better.   Sorta reminds me of the inexpensive PC printers with outlandish ink cartridge costs.  Some offer N2K network starter kits which are a better value but don't suit my needs. 

So I thought I'd throw this question out there in the hopes that someone before me did similar homework and hit the jackpot.....

9
Main Message Board / NMEA 2000 network cables
« on: July 30, 2017, 09:45:56 AM »
Want to connect my Raymarine instruments to Garmin chart plotter. The required cables and adapters run close to $200 if using the Raymarine ng cables.  Now looking at standard N2k to try to reduce the cost a bit..  Can anyone recommend a brand/vendor for best price?

10
Main Message Board / Re: New Stainless Steel Deck Fill Pipe Caps
« on: May 25, 2017, 10:47:01 AM »
I was back at the boat yesterday and looked closer at this issue. The o ring on the SS cap is same size as on the plastic caps. 1.5" ID and 1/8" thick.  I had and tried a 3/16" thick o ring but that was much too thick.
I  again compared the feel of the plastic cap vs the SS cap when tightening.   I reallly don't trust the new cap, as it bottoms out before I can feel o ring compression.  I removed it and put the plastic one back on till I get this sorted out.  I spoke with CD and they had no complaints of this nature though they never tried a fit test with the fill plate attached to a deck - that is where the problem is. The cap has a bottom side ridge that overlaps the fill plate and contacts the deck and prevents further tightening.  The plastic cap has same ridge but the soft plastic deforms and allows further tightening.   I will try to get an odd size o ring that is just slightly thicker than the existing one.  If that doesn't work I will return it

11
Main Message Board / Re: New Stainless Steel Deck Fill Pipe Caps
« on: May 23, 2017, 01:08:37 PM »
I recently bought the new stainless cap to replace my faded red fuel cap.  I did not feel the o-ring compress much, certainly less than with the plastic cap. Thinking the cap is bottoming out before the o-ring has enough compression.  A larger diameter o-ring would likely fix this but I haven't looked for one yet.
Anyone else have this issue?

12
Main Message Board / Re: rope clutches
« on: December 28, 2016, 03:59:37 PM »
Dave,
I had a similar experience as Ed - last week I replaced my original Garhaeur double with a new Garhauer triple.  The hole pattern has shifted by 1/16". The old were 2 11/16 vs new 2 5/8.  Drilled new holes and was done with it.

13
Main Message Board / Replacement lighted propane switch
« on: May 05, 2016, 05:31:35 PM »
Found a drop-in replacement on eBay.  Installed and verified working.
Passing this along to anyone else who may need one, as I had a hard time tracking one down.  $5.49!! I should have bought a spare.

BLACK-ON-OFF-MINI-SWITCH-12V-WITH-RED-LIGHT-3-PRONG-RV-ROCKER, Seller cmlsurpluscindy

http://www.ebay.com/itm/351711233441?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

14
Main Message Board / Re: Engine oil recommendations?
« on: November 12, 2014, 07:03:20 PM »
Stu, I took your advice and searched Sailnet....I found a recent "synthetic vs. conventional" thread with enough  facts, opinions, declarations, and temperament to rival the best of the anchor threads.   Anyway, after that and a little more reading, I'm convinced to go non-synthetic.  Why did I start using synthetic?  The PO used and recommended Mobil 1 to me, and I never questioned it. 
So Rotella it is, and with the few $ savings, I can buy a better beer, and muse about more interesting things.
Thanks all for your inputs.

15
Main Message Board / Engine oil recommendations?
« on: November 10, 2014, 05:37:03 PM »
I've been using Mobil 1 synthetic 30W or 10W30 for years in my Universal M35, but when I went to buy some today, I saw it no longer carries the diesel API rating.   So after poking around the Mobil web site for awhile, I finally found a chart showing the API ratings of all of their oils.  The only one which carries the current API diesel rating (CJ-4) is Mobil 1™ Turbo Diesel Truck, offered in 5W40 only.  My engine manual specifies (SAE) 30 HD. (CD) or 10W40).  The CD rating is long obsolete, and I assume the CJ-4 covers it.

So I'm searching for a new oil.  Thought I'd put the question out here before looking further.  Any suggestions?

Thanks!!

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 13