Join the C34 Association Today!
[C34 Home] [C34Tech Notes] [C34 Tech Wiki] [Join!]
Please login or register.
Advanced search  

News:

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Bob K

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 13
31
Main Message Board / Re: Stern Pulpit with Seats w/ many Flix
« on: March 29, 2012, 04:35:17 PM »
Great idea Brent.  Where did you get the rail fittings?

32
Main Message Board / Re: Cockpit Shower replacement
« on: March 28, 2012, 06:38:56 PM »
I looked for a new cockpit shower faucet a couple years ago and found a large selection of similar types on RV web sites.  Didn't buy though - managed to get the original working - I think there was dirt in it.

33
Ron,
I don't mind the look of the black sliders.  Had a corner crack off one a couple years ago, and have not gotten around to fixing, so this is the perfect deal for me!! 

34
Hi Steve,
I am interested if you still have them.  I tried to PM  you but not sure it went through.

35
Main Message Board / Re: ST4000 autopilot problem
« on: January 11, 2012, 05:51:03 PM »
Ken ,
I did look inside my control head, and the insides look pristine, so I don't think water ever got into it.  Regarding the fluxgate tests, I performed only a pin resistance test, as that is the only test outlined in the service manual.  When the problem first surfaced, I saw no change in the compass heading display as I turned the boat.  So I am really not sure if it is the compass or the fluxgate.  I do have the service manual with schematic diagram, and have an oscilloscope, so next step may be to hook it all back up and monitor the signal lines from the compass.  Not sure if that will lead to anything but worth a shot if I get a warm weekend day.  Easier to swap components - I am interested in buying your fluxgate and head if you want to part with them!!

36
Cliff,
I have had the same type bottom paint issues since owning the boat for past 5 years.  I just scrape off the loose stuff in the spring, scuff the edges a bit, and paint over it all.  No worries!  If I raced I guess I'd do differently.
Regarding your rudder, weeping generally happens at the rudder post entry point (see my recent and myriad posts from others on that topic - ugh).   I am assuming your pic "Boat001.jpg" is the weeping rudder ?  It looks like weeping somewhere in the middle of the rudder body.  I'm confused - did you drill holes first, and then saw the weeping or maybe these are blisters that popped?

37
Main Message Board / Re: ST4000 autopilot problem
« on: January 05, 2012, 02:42:52 PM »
Ken I don't think it was an error code as there is no reference to error codes in the service manual. Looked like a stuck heading.  May need to bite the bullet and get a replacement head and hope that resolves it.

38
Main Message Board / ST4000 autopilot problem
« on: January 03, 2012, 06:10:15 PM »
Autopilot stopped working one day this past summer   When in auto, the compass reading never changed, and the motor never actuated.  It read A034.  When in standby mode the reading never changed either, it read C034, with the C flashing.

I verified the motor worked by pressing the +10 and -10 keys. 

I also tried the compass deviation correction routine (slow 360 degree circle), but it never displayed the deviation, as I sort of  expected.

My first thought was the fluxgate compass died, but I did a functional (resistance) test as described in the ST4000 service manual, and all connector pin resistances were in spec. 

So I removed the control head this week with the intent of sending it to Raymarine for checkout.  I just found out they no longer service the head, so I am stuck trying to figure this out for myself.   I can gamble and try to find a used head somewhere, but I am unsure if the problem really is the control head or maybe is the compass. 

Has anyone ever experienced this type failure, or can offer some troubleshoot advice?

Th

39
Main Message Board / Re: Weeping Rudder - Next steps.........
« on: December 11, 2011, 07:18:55 PM »
Had a victory this weekend - was able to remove the rudder.   Impact wrench and an overnight PB blaster soak did the trick for removing the quadrant bolts - thanks for the advice guys. I dont think the bolts would have come out without the impact wrench.  BTW, at first I bought the Harbor Freight $20 cheapie wrench, and it did not budge the car lug nuts when I tried it at home, so I bought a Husky for $99 at Home Depot, and it worked like a champ.  So at least I got a new tool out of the deal!

So now the not so good news......inspection of the rudder at the rudderpost shows four cracks radiating outward from the post.  Pix attached.  I am unsure how deep the cracks go, though the front one looks like it is about an inch deep.  I am thinking they can be ground out and filled, though will have to reinforce with a collar of cloth.  This assumes the rest of the rudder looks OK when I open it up to inspect.   I think I will also call Catalina and ask them for advice.

40
Main Message Board / Re: Replacing Main Halyard
« on: December 06, 2011, 07:04:31 PM »
Steve,
We used VPC for our new main halyard.   It has less stretch (0.8%) compared to Sta Set X (1.3%).   It had a very stiff hand the first year, to the point that I questioned if I made a wrong decision.  It has softened over the 3 years of service, so am now very happy with it.   

41
Main Message Board / Re: Stiff steering and quadrant corrosion
« on: December 04, 2011, 06:30:37 PM »
Stiff steering wheel fixed!  The bearings on the wheel needed grease.   Early attempt to grease didn't work because the small grease holes were plugged with dry grease.  Once I cleaned the holes, was able to inject grease using a syringe.

42
Main Message Board / Re: Weeping Rudder - Next steps.........
« on: December 04, 2011, 06:27:02 PM »
OK, I suppose I have to bite the bullet and remove the rudder to do this repair correctly. Didn't want to come to that conclusion yet, but all of your comments convinced me.   The steering quadrant bolts are as stuck and as can be, so I will have to fight that battle before-hand.  I was able to get all 4 bolts to turn slightly, but I think I was twisting the frozen bolts as opposed to loosening.   If I continue they may all snap, but I'm not sure what other option there is.   Any help on this little task will also be greatly appreciated. 

43
Main Message Board / Weeping Rudder - Next steps.........
« on: December 02, 2011, 08:03:37 AM »
Several findings have me wondering what to do next..  the rudder showed weeping with rust stains when the boat was pulled several weeks ago.  This week I drilled a few inspection holes in the sides of the rudder, and when I found water, I drilled quite a few more.  Black gooey water and muck drained out of several of the holes in one area.  Some dripped a bit of clear water surrounding the black water, but by and large the rest of the rudder foam was dry.   Im guessing the foam decomposed in this one area, causing the void and black stuff.   I never did see any rusty water drain out, but it is possible it was in there with the black stuff.   The void is not too large, maybe an inch or two wide, and 6 vertical, located port side alongside the rudder shaft.  Starboard side is almost all dry.   
I also found the black water when I pumped the standing water out of the rudder tube from topside.
The next finding was when I dropped the rudder to get a look at the shaft where it enters the rudder.  I saw corrosion around the shaft which appears to be surface, but difficult to tell.    Photos of the shaft corrosion and drain holes are attached.

So I am debating my next moves, and if I should be considering a new rudder or not. 

Next step I am considering is to gently drill into the corroded areas of  the shaft  to see how deep the corrosion is.  Will need to do in several areas around the shaft.   If  I see clean metal without drilling far, I suppose I am OK, and have not compromised shaft strength. 

I will also see what has drained out of the holes in the two weeks since drilling them.  Also am considering (but really dont want to do) using a hole saw to remove a 3 portion of the skin where the void is so I can inspect the shaft and internal steel plate for corrosion.   But based on prior postings (no known stock/plate separation failures), I am not sure this is necessary.

I am looking for comments from anyone else who went through this, as well as suggestions/improvements to my next steps.   Did anyone else see black water/goo?  Does my shaft corrosion look bad?  Maybe they all look that way after 20 years? 
And last, I hate to ask..has anyone purchased a new rudder lately?  Latest price I found in a search of this forum was close to $2200 plus shipping in 2009.  Yikes.    Thanks in advance for your help .

44
Main Message Board / Re: Stiff steering and quadrant corrosion
« on: November 21, 2011, 05:43:54 PM »
Tony,  The packing turned out to be OK, so I didn't get to make a mistake and oil it!  Thanks for the tip.

45
Main Message Board / Re: Stiff steering and quadrant corrosion
« on: November 20, 2011, 06:08:08 PM »
I was thinking the corrosion might somehow be related to my stiff steering, but can't see any way it can be.  I disconnected the steering cables today, and found the problem is mostly in the wheel.  I have never lubricated the bearings before, and from poking around on this site, I see that I should have been doing it periodically.  I tried to add teflon lube in the lube holes but could not get any to go in. Maybe the old grease might be dried and binding. I think I need to pull the wheel shaft and clean/lube the bearings.  I should have packed up and went home at that point, because the next findings were more disturbing.  With the rudder free of the steering cables, I turned the rudder at the quadrant and heard a bang each time I reversed direction.  Traced this to lateral (side to side) movement of the rudder.   Also saw water weeping out the rudder /rudder stock interface, as well as water sitting in the bottom of the rudder tube.  So after searching the forum for info on all these issues, it looks like, at a minimum, I need to drop the rudder a few inches and inspect, drain the water over the winter, seal the tube, and shim the bearings when reassembled.  May pull the rudder off altogether and sit it next to the basement woodstove all winter.  And I was originally hoping to get the winter cover on next weekend!

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 13