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Autopilot stopped working one day this past summer   When in auto, the compass reading never changed, and the motor never actuated.  It read "A034".  When in standby mode the reading never changed either, it read "C034", with the C flashing.

I verified the motor worked by pressing the +10 and -10 keys. 

I also tried the compass deviation correction routine (slow 360 degree circle), but it never displayed the deviation, as I sort of  expected.

My first thought was the fluxgate compass died, but I did a functional (resistance) test as described in the ST4000 service manual, and all connector pin resistances were in spec. 

So I removed the control head this week with the intent of sending it to Raymarine for checkout.  I just found out they no longer service the head, so I am stuck trying to figure this out for myself.   I can gamble and try to find a used head somewhere, but I am unsure if the problem really is the control head or maybe is the compass. 

Has anyone ever experienced this type failure, or can offer some troubleshoot advice?

Th

Had a victory this weekend - was able to remove the rudder.   Impact wrench and an overnight PB blaster soak did the trick for removing the quadrant bolts - thanks for the advice guys. I dont think the bolts would have come out without the impact wrench.  BTW, at first I bought the Harbor Freight $20 cheapie wrench, and it did not budge the car lug nuts when I tried it at home, so I bought a Husky for $99 at Home Depot, and it worked like a champ.  So at least I got a new tool out of the deal!

So now the not so good news......inspection of the rudder at the rudderpost shows four cracks radiating outward from the post.  Pix attached.  I am unsure how deep the cracks go, though the front one looks like it is about an inch deep.  I am thinking they can be ground out and filled, though will have to reinforce with a collar of cloth.  This assumes the rest of the rudder looks OK when I open it up to inspect.   I think I will also call Catalina and ask them for advice.

Steve,
We used VPC for our new main halyard.   It has less stretch (0.8%) compared to Sta Set X (1.3%).   It had a very stiff hand the first year, to the point that I questioned if I made a wrong decision.  It has softened over the 3 years of service, so am now very happy with it.   

Stiff steering wheel fixed!  The bearings on the wheel needed grease.   Early attempt to grease didn't work because the small grease holes were plugged with dry grease.  Once I cleaned the holes, was able to inject grease using a syringe.

OK, I suppose I have to bite the bullet and remove the rudder to do this repair correctly. Didn't want to come to that conclusion yet, but all of your comments convinced me.   The steering quadrant bolts are as stuck and as can be, so I will have to fight that battle before-hand.  I was able to get all 4 bolts to turn slightly, but I think I was twisting the frozen bolts as opposed to loosening.   If I continue they may all snap, but I'm not sure what other option there is.   Any help on this little task will also be greatly appreciated. 

Several findings have me wondering what to do next.....  the rudder showed weeping with rust stains when the boat was pulled several weeks ago.  This week I drilled a few inspection holes in the sides of the rudder, and when I found water, I drilled quite a few more.  Black gooey water and muck drained out of several of the holes in one area.  Some dripped a bit of clear water surrounding the black water, but by and large the rest of the rudder foam was dry.   I'm guessing the foam decomposed in this one area, causing the void and black stuff.   I never did see any rusty water drain out, but it is possible it was in there with the black stuff.   The void is not too large, maybe an inch or two wide, and 6" vertical, located port side alongside the rudder shaft.  Starboard side is almost all dry.   
I also found the black water when I pumped the standing water out of the rudder tube from topside.
The next finding was when I dropped the rudder to get a look at the shaft where it enters the rudder.  I saw corrosion around the shaft which appears to be surface, but difficult to tell.    Photos of the shaft corrosion and drain holes are attached.

So I am debating my next moves, and if I should be considering a new rudder or not. 

Next step I am considering is to gently drill into the corroded areas of  the shaft  to see how deep the corrosion is.  Will need to do in several areas around the shaft.   If  I see clean metal without drilling far, I suppose I am OK, and have not compromised shaft strength. 

I will also see what has drained out of the holes in the two weeks since drilling them.  Also am considering (but really don't want to do) using a hole saw to remove a 3" portion of the skin where the void is so I can inspect the shaft and internal steel plate for corrosion.   But based on prior postings (no known stock/plate separation failures), I am not sure this is necessary.

I am looking for comments from anyone else who went through this, as well as suggestions/improvements to my next steps.   Did anyone else see black water/goo?  Does my shaft corrosion look bad?  Maybe they all look that way after 20 years? 
And last, I hate to ask........has anyone purchased a new rudder lately?  Latest price I found in a search of this forum was close to $2200 plus shipping in 2009.  Yikes.    Thanks in advance for your help ....

Tony,  The packing turned out to be OK, so I didn't get to make a mistake and oil it!  Thanks for the tip.

I was thinking the corrosion might somehow be related to my stiff steering, but can't see any way it can be.  I disconnected the steering cables today, and found the problem is mostly in the wheel.  I have never lubricated the bearings before, and from poking around on this site, I see that I should have been doing it periodically.  I tried to add teflon lube in the lube holes but could not get any to go in. Maybe the old grease might be dried and binding. I think I need to pull the wheel shaft and clean/lube the bearings.  I should have packed up and went home at that point, because the next findings were more disturbing.  With the rudder free of the steering cables, I turned the rudder at the quadrant and heard a bang each time I reversed direction.  Traced this to lateral (side to side) movement of the rudder.   Also saw water weeping out the rudder /rudder stock interface, as well as water sitting in the bottom of the rudder tube.  So after searching the forum for info on all these issues, it looks like, at a minimum, I need to drop the rudder a few inches and inspect, drain the water over the winter, seal the tube, and shim the bearings when reassembled.  May pull the rudder off altogether and sit it next to the basement woodstove all winter.  And I was originally hoping to get the winter cover on next weekend!

The steering stiffened up noticably duing the half hour motor to the winter haulout marina yesterday.  After haul, I inspected inside and out, and saw nothing.  It appears the stiffness is in the rudder, and not the wheel or cables.  I will try adding some oil when I inspect the packing gland - maybe that willl help.  During inspection I noticed big-time corrosion on the top side of the steering quadrant.  Lots of white powder - almost looks like a coating of snow.   A photo is attached though it does not show too good.  Is quadrant corrosion common?  Not sure why it would corrode so much, as it should be dry. Aluminum quadrant against stainless rudder shaft - has anyone ever installed a zinc on the quadrant? 

I second the plug for Dennis Ferriello's Profile gauge.  Have had it for several years, and it has worked flawlessly.  In addition, Dennis was very helpful in answering  my installation questions.   A great product at a good price from a small business - what's not to like? 

I replace my red plastic fuel fill cover every few years, as the plastic gets brittle and can crack.  I once had a hairline crack at the bottom of the hole where the winch handle goes.  Dont want to chance water entry.   Others on this list have replaced the entire assembly with a different one with metal cover.   Be careful if you try that - some of the available replacement deck fills have a smaller diameter mounting flange, and that places the three mounting screw holes which fasten the assembly to the deck too close in -the screws will break through into the large hole cutout.  Then you'll have to remount the old original deck fill, return the replacement, and buy a new red plastic fuel fill cover until you are ready to try it again another year.   Not speaking from personal experience, of course 

Ron,its a Mermaid but I think (hope)I only need a charge. Air wasn't as cold as usual last season.

Does anyone know of a marine AC service tech in the upper Chesapeake area?  Located Middle River

So far I've rebedded two chainplates and a stanchion with butyl rubber.  Good initial results, though time will tell.  Somewhat tricky to work with as it is so sticky, but after the first one it went easier.  It was nice to not have to clean up the usual polysulfide mess.  Chainplate cover screws were strong enough to compress the rubber, though I will tighten a bit more after summer heat softens the rubber and lets it flow easier.

I replaced mine 2 years ago with Plastimo dorade vents, available from several sources.  Got mine from Ahoy-Captain for just under $200 for the pair.  Wish I knew about the air-only vents for $50.  The Plastimos have just a bit larger diameter than the OEM vents, so they fit well, but do require new mounting holes.  I just filled the old ones  - they were underneath the base anyway so no issues from water or aesthetics.