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my '89 aft water tank vents into the cockpit behind the wheel.  i plan to route my forward water tank to the same vent.  it's a long reach, but seemed like a good idea.  the waste tank is vented to a 1" thru-hull i drill way up by the rail.  i glassed over and sealed up the stanchion vent holes through the deck

noah, remodel looks good.  thanks for the suggestion, i could go down that road but i don't have all the tools to do it currently.  debating on whether i want to buy them or not.  if i can't find anything i'll probably do it.  god knows i have plenty of other wood work around the boat to fix up

ken, thanks i'll reach out to him and see if can get a couple planks

has anyone had to replace the teak trim around the countertop in the head?  i replaced the counter top all around with new plywood and formica.  looks like great, but the old teak trim doesn't line up exactly.  the apron part of the trim seems to be a little taller then those i could find around on the web from seateak/whitecap.  unfortunately i forgot to measure the overhang before i left the boat, but they're definitely taller then the 7/8" as shown from seateak/whitecap.  i sent a message to catalina, was wondering if anyone else has a source/solution

for those wondering why i didn't just trace the old countertop, apparently when catalina cut my countertop they cut it from a master template (maybe) rather then the actual hull, which is what i traced.  there was a ~1" difference in dimensions specifically above the tp cabinet.  i didn't notice this until i tried to fit the trim.  i couldn't just trace my old countertop, leaks rotted the plywood into oblivion (literally).

i replaced all six of mine through CD a couple of years ago.  the product was nearly identical to the ones i pulled off the boat.  i can't say where CD gets them (likely garhauer) and they're pricey through CD, but they do seem to be the same fit/finish as the originals

I understand that you already bought your replacements, however, if you're interested, you COULD send your existing units to Garhauer and they will build you a set with the same bolt pattern.  I ended up going a different route, but was pretty happy to know this service existed.

understood and i've talked to the garhauer people and they're quite helpful.  but in my case since i upsized the sheaves one size and going with a three sheave version, only one of the holes could ever line up.

i'm about to embark on replacing my very very tired original 2 sheave organizers with three sheave organizers.  i picked up a new set from garhauer.  unfortunately the bolt holes don't like up (which isn't terribly surprising).  i saw some old posts on the forum that there is a large metal plate underneath holding the organizer down.  however, that post was from a mk 1.5 owner.  can anyone confirm that the the mk 1's also have this plate?  does anyone know the size?  as an aside if i didn't want to drill/tap this plate but rather through bolt it, does anyone know what's inside the organizer plinth and inside the molded channel in the cabin that runs from the mast outward?  since my mast is keel stepped, they might be hollow, which would mean through bolting probably isn't a good idea, but there could be plywood too

for what's it's worth i had the same issue.  when i tried to disassemble the pedestal to fix it up i managed to kill it.  for one thing it was full of aluminum corrosion on the inside and between the tubes, with heavy pitting underneath.  the rough surface wasn't helping the sliding action.  second when i tried to get the gas cylinder out the plastic holding it in was brittle and cracked/broke.  i suspect these weren't made to last 30+ years.  and if they were, disassembly without big task specific tools is probably required.

i too was shocked at the shear cost via catalina direct and haven't bother to replace it.  i was thinking about drilling a series of holes in the pedestal and using a pin to hold the position or putting wooden blocks inside and finding some off the shelf cylinder.  i mean how adjustable does it really need to be, right.  i have other things to fix first so this is pretty low on the list of to-do's

mdid : I had the same problem!!
Sorry - no picture, but I finally used a Schaefer (#317255) 300 BB block. It is a clamp-on (1 inch) to the base of the bow pulpit so the line is just inside the base of the bow pulpit. The block has a spring swivel.  West Marine # 300-35.  Then the furling line goes to a regular stanchion block so the line is OUTSIDE the stanchions until it arrives at the cockpit!   Hope this helps

ok thats basically what i've done as well.  i have garhauer stanchions blocks that pull the line outside from the first upright stanchion to the last, and then i picked up a spring swivel for the pulpit, but i can't figure out the orientation.  it was a little cold when i tried this two weeks ago, maybe my brain was foggy.  i'll take another look tomorrow.

over the winter i picked up a bunch of stanchion blocks from garhaurer to re-route my furling line.  however, i'm having trouble getting the angle right from the first upright stanchion to the furler (a hood 900 drum (not continuous)).  can anyone post some pictures of what arrangement of blocks they have from the first stanchion up to the furler itself.  the arrangements i tried all seemed to have either have a weird feed angle into the drum or the standup blocks on the bow rails are bent over in weird ways and don't actually carry the line

clearly i'm doing something wrong, i just need to see how others did it

i have a bunch of extra pieces from another member that changed his out.  the rivet holes are in the best condition, but they're probably still workable.  where are you?

is anyone using friction rings at the mast base instead of blocks?  if so any issues?  how did you attach the ring to the pins in the deck plate around the mast?

So are you re-cabling the bank to the starter as well with #2?
V loss wise, and ampacity wise, I'd use #6 for the alternator neg to the buss/or/to the starter just for ease of doing it. It's only 18" IIRC for that cable.   I know what you mean about #8 - I have a dedicated hex crimper for that for starter lugs and two die crimpers I can use for power lugs.

correct, alt and start post go back to the battery via separate wires protected (at batt) by ANL fuses in bluesea holders.  OEM was 4awg, i upsized to 2awg

i'm putting a bluesea busbar in the engine bay which will be the negs for start, alt, fuel pump, fuel tank sender, eng blower, and eng panel, which will go back to the batt with 2awg

just to simplify the parts (and spares), everything is basically either 2awg or 10/12awg wire

i've basically been following the CD panel wiring https://www.catalinadirect.com/images/features/Z4644%20Wiring%20Diagram.pdf and what i've been able to pickup as recommendations from you, Stu, and Rod

Lugs should go down to #10 hole. I believe that's the size of the GND.  At least I buy them down to that size.
The AO post should be 1/4".

ah, that's the part i was missing.  i totally missed that the lugs will go down to a #10 post.  the B+ is definitely 1/4" i checked the lug fit last weekend

The alt will put out only 50a absolute PEAK, and your Alt HAS voltage sense (not typical)!! so why use 2 awg???  Crazy cookoo but YBYC.

mostly its just because it's what i have on hand and i don't have a tool that will crimp 8awg wire.  so the closet i could get to your suggestion would be 6awg (w/ftz crimper), but i already have 2awg, so if it doesn't hurt why not

I did a diagram of two different ways to hook up a negative buss in the engine compartment.
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,11183.msg88980.html#msg88980
Let me suggest, and take this is the spirit it's meant, if one rips out an Alt w/out making a schematic, doesn't know why to run a NEG to the heavy-load starter, and doesn't know what V sense does - it might behoove one to get a professional to help them rewire.  It isn't something to be done without knowing the most basic items about the charging system. I'd hate to screw that up!!

it's not that i don't understand it's that i don't understand what i'm looking at because things aren't labelled (and weren't when i pulled the wiring out and i hadn't documented what i pulled out as well as i thought i had)

but these two sets of diagrams (alt and neg wiring) make it all clear now what i'm looking at.  and since i'm re-wiring things i'm making (clearer) diagrams as i go, but it's not much different then what CTY originally built

When I installed my new alternator, I drew wiring diagrams of what was there on my old one, too.

yeah, that probably would have helped.  i got 98% of the system rewired.  the real crux was just not knowing which post was which in the alternator.  one cause i didn't know the model number and two because the yard painted my engine.  they taped off a lot of the decals, but i guess the alt was a step too much.

12:00 is the V Sense terminal.
3:00 is the Field Excite terminal.
4:30 is the GND terminal.
There is really no reason to run the GND wire back to the bttys.  You can run it to the NEG btty cable, which OEM is on the tranny bell housing.  If so, that cable lug should be moved from there to the outside starter bolt.
For a 51a alt I would use a #6 or #4 gauge. 
A #8 is allowable, But You Never Get A Second Chance To Overkill It The First Time.
Y'all - check your cable lugs; don't assume OEM ones are good.  This was a CTY factory crimp on a C355!!

as for check the lugs, it's all new using an ftz crimper, so if its broke, it's my fault :)

for the B+ i'm using 2awg from the batteries directly to the alt.  if i understand what you're saying, the negative post is right next to the AC tap bolt and it should be min 8awg.  i can use 2awg for the ground, but i'm afraid the power lugs i have are going to be too large for that bolt.  its not the same size as the B+ bolt

the field excite wire i'm taping off the ignition/fuel pump wire from the panel, 12awg.

where does the vsense connect to?

i'm planning to run the bell house ground and some other negative wires to a busbar in the engine bay and then 2awg back to the batteries

and just to double check the starter doesn't have a separate ground it's ground comes from the engine ground right?  it just has the positive lug and the solenoid positive wire.  is there a reason to use the starter bolt over the engine/tranny bolts as a ground

i think i got everything else hooked up right though, so we'll see, maybe this weekend, if it actually starts up again... :)