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Messages - mdidomenico

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i have a bunch of extra pieces from another member that changed his out.  the rivet holes are in the best condition, but they're probably still workable.  where are you?

Main Message Board / mast base friction rings
« on: July 05, 2022, 09:18:00 AM »
is anyone using friction rings at the mast base instead of blocks?  if so any issues?  how did you attach the ring to the pins in the deck plate around the mast?

Main Message Board / Re: oem alternator wiring
« on: June 15, 2022, 08:56:44 AM »
So are you re-cabling the bank to the starter as well with #2?
V loss wise, and ampacity wise, Id use #6 for the alternator neg to the buss/or/to the starter just for ease of doing it. Its only 18 IIRC for that cable.   I know what you mean about #8 - I have a dedicated hex crimper for that for starter lugs and two die crimpers I can use for power lugs.

correct, alt and start post go back to the battery via separate wires protected (at batt) by ANL fuses in bluesea holders.  OEM was 4awg, i upsized to 2awg

i'm putting a bluesea busbar in the engine bay which will be the negs for start, alt, fuel pump, fuel tank sender, eng blower, and eng panel, which will go back to the batt with 2awg

just to simplify the parts (and spares), everything is basically either 2awg or 10/12awg wire

i've basically been following the CD panel wiring and what i've been able to pickup as recommendations from you, Stu, and Rod

Main Message Board / Re: oem alternator wiring
« on: June 15, 2022, 07:29:12 AM »
Lugs should go down to #10 hole. I believe thats the size of the GND.  At least I buy them down to that size.
The AO post should be 1/4.

ah, that's the part i was missing.  i totally missed that the lugs will go down to a #10 post.  the B+ is definitely 1/4" i checked the lug fit last weekend

The alt will put out only 50a absolute PEAK, and your Alt HAS voltage sense (not typical)!! so why use 2 awg???  Crazy cookoo but YBYC.

mostly its just because it's what i have on hand and i don't have a tool that will crimp 8awg wire.  so the closet i could get to your suggestion would be 6awg (w/ftz crimper), but i already have 2awg, so if it doesn't hurt why not

I did a diagram of two different ways to hook up a negative buss in the engine compartment.,11183.msg88980.html#msg88980
Let me suggest, and take this is the spirit it's meant, if one rips out an Alt w/out making a schematic, doesn't know why to run a NEG to the heavy-load starter, and doesn't know what V sense does - it might behoove one to get a professional to help them rewire.  It isn't something to be done without knowing the most basic items about the charging system. I'd hate to screw that up!!

it's not that i don't understand it's that i don't understand what i'm looking at because things aren't labelled (and weren't when i pulled the wiring out and i hadn't documented what i pulled out as well as i thought i had)

but these two sets of diagrams (alt and neg wiring) make it all clear now what i'm looking at.  and since i'm re-wiring things i'm making (clearer) diagrams as i go, but it's not much different then what CTY originally built

Main Message Board / Re: oem alternator wiring
« on: June 14, 2022, 12:00:14 PM »
When I installed my new alternator, I drew wiring diagrams of what was there on my old one, too.

yeah, that probably would have helped.  i got 98% of the system rewired.  the real crux was just not knowing which post was which in the alternator.  one cause i didn't know the model number and two because the yard painted my engine.  they taped off a lot of the decals, but i guess the alt was a step too much.

Main Message Board / Re: oem alternator wiring
« on: June 14, 2022, 09:10:21 AM »
12:00 is the V Sense terminal.
3:00 is the Field Excite terminal.
4:30 is the GND terminal.
There is really no reason to run the GND wire back to the bttys.  You can run it to the NEG btty cable, which OEM is on the tranny bell housing.  If so, that cable lug should be moved from there to the outside starter bolt.
For a 51a alt I would use a #6 or #4 gauge. 
A #8 is allowable, But You Never Get A Second Chance To Overkill It The First Time.
Yall - check your cable lugs; don't assume OEM ones are good.  This was a CTY factory crimp on a C355!!

as for check the lugs, it's all new using an ftz crimper, so if its broke, it's my fault :)

for the B+ i'm using 2awg from the batteries directly to the alt.  if i understand what you're saying, the negative post is right next to the AC tap bolt and it should be min 8awg.  i can use 2awg for the ground, but i'm afraid the power lugs i have are going to be too large for that bolt.  its not the same size as the B+ bolt

the field excite wire i'm taping off the ignition/fuel pump wire from the panel, 12awg.

where does the vsense connect to?

i'm planning to run the bell house ground and some other negative wires to a busbar in the engine bay and then 2awg back to the batteries

and just to double check the starter doesn't have a separate ground it's ground comes from the engine ground right?  it just has the positive lug and the solenoid positive wire.  is there a reason to use the starter bolt over the engine/tranny bolts as a ground

i think i got everything else hooked up right though, so we'll see, maybe this weekend, if it actually starts up again... :)

Main Message Board / oem alternator wiring
« on: June 13, 2022, 01:58:34 PM »
i'm working on getting my engine all rewired.  i've pushed through the forum threads on alternator wiring, but either i don't understand what i'm reading or i don't understand what two of the screws on the back of alternator are for or both.  so a picture is worth a thousand words.  attached is the back of my alternator.  i can identify the B+ (goes to battery), the AC tap (goes to tachometer).  but there are three other screws, one just above the AC tap and 2 about 12o'clock and 2 about 3o'clock.  one of the screws at 12 and 3 clearly hold the case together (same head pattern as the two in the center), but what are the other two for at 12 and 3.  i think ones a ground and the others a sense wire, but i'd rather not guess

assuming one of the bolts is for a negative wire back to the batteries what gauge is that supposed to be.  clearly it's not the #2 i'm using for the B+

I have full set of cushions from my previous Catalina 34 Mk1 in very good condition.
Please contact me if you are interested 4167064511
I also have sails and Bimini with the frame.

i might be interested in the bimini, but it would depend on where you are

Main Message Board / Re: pressure washing the non-skid on the deck
« on: May 03, 2022, 06:04:37 AM »
one cleaner that might be worth trying is soft scrub with bleach.  being a cleaner and a very mild abrasive, it might take it off.

Main Message Board / Re: Leak at companionway
« on: March 21, 2022, 05:46:36 AM »
seems like an odd place for a weep hole.  i certainly don't have one on my '89.  maybe yours shouldn't either, perhaps a PO mod or something?

Main Message Board / Re: Universal Wiring Harness Upgrade
« on: March 01, 2022, 08:54:26 AM »
AHS terminals.

Ken, please expand this.  I'm in the middle of remaking my entire engine electrical system, but i don't think i've come across "AHS" yet in everything i've read.

Main Message Board / Re: Hauling a boat - looking for your experience
« on: February 20, 2022, 09:55:31 AM »
instead of trucking it, i would see if you can ride as secondary cargo on a ship going through the trent (or as close as you can get it).  overland via truck is likely to cost $10k i'd bet, especially since you're crossing the border as well.  otherwise i'd sail it yourself, just break it up into small trips over the weekends

Taking the mast down this offseason to install a windmeter

it's called an anemometer :)

Main Message Board / Re: Light bulb removal
« on: January 23, 2022, 12:42:52 PM »
the range hood over my stove in my house has bulbs like that.  it came with a little suction cup thing to pull the bulb out.  i suspect you can get one from lowe's or somewhere.  might work...

Main Message Board / Re: Rudder Play Fix options
« on: November 23, 2021, 04:58:40 AM »
for what it's worth, i've never had success with pbblaster.  and since i've stripped my boat down to the hull, so i've had to free plenty of stainless bolts.  the only things that've worked for me

1 nut splitter
2 impact gun
3 heat
4 drilling

if it's a chunky bolt with a nut i'll split the nut and pull/hammer the bolt out.  if it's not a thru bolt, an impact driver usually frees it or snaps the head, in which case i end up drilling the bolt out anyway

heat seems to be the least damaging with varied actual success.  if i have a lot of room i'll use a blow torch to heat the bolt/screw.  if less room you can get pencil tips for the blow torch, makes all the difference. 

otherwise if you have a heavy duty (100w+) soldering iron, you can hold it directly on the bolt/screw.  takes awhile though, but does work sometimes and if there's a lot of wood around the fastener sometimes the safest/least damaging.  there's a fancy induction bolt heater that mechanics use that i envy, but the $1k price tag was not.

drilling is the fall back, which i've sadly done a lot.  just get a center punch and good set of cobalt drill bits, doesn't take too long

the only thing pbblaster ever did for me was make my hands and the surrounding environment stink

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