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i'm working on getting my engine all rewired.  i've pushed through the forum threads on alternator wiring, but either i don't understand what i'm reading or i don't understand what two of the screws on the back of alternator are for or both.  so a picture is worth a thousand words.  attached is the back of my alternator.  i can identify the B+ (goes to battery), the AC tap (goes to tachometer).  but there are three other screws, one just above the AC tap and 2 about 12o'clock and 2 about 3o'clock.  one of the screws at 12 and 3 clearly hold the case together (same head pattern as the two in the center), but what are the other two for at 12 and 3.  i think ones a ground and the others a sense wire, but i'd rather not guess

assuming one of the bolts is for a negative wire back to the batteries what gauge is that supposed to be.  clearly it's not the #2 i'm using for the B+

I have full set of cushions from my previous Catalina 34 Mk1 in very good condition.
Please contact me if you are interested 4167064511
I also have sails and Bimini with the frame.

i might be interested in the bimini, but it would depend on where you are

one cleaner that might be worth trying is soft scrub with bleach.  being a cleaner and a very mild abrasive, it might take it off.

seems like an odd place for a weep hole.  i certainly don't have one on my '89.  maybe yours shouldn't either, perhaps a PO mod or something?

AHS terminals.

Ken, please expand this.  I'm in the middle of remaking my entire engine electrical system, but i don't think i've come across "AHS" yet in everything i've read.

instead of trucking it, i would see if you can ride as secondary cargo on a ship going through the trent (or as close as you can get it).  overland via truck is likely to cost $10k i'd bet, especially since you're crossing the border as well.  otherwise i'd sail it yourself, just break it up into small trips over the weekends

Taking the mast down this offseason to install a windmeter

it's called an anemometer :)

the range hood over my stove in my house has bulbs like that.  it came with a little suction cup thing to pull the bulb out.  i suspect you can get one from lowe's or somewhere.  might work...

for what it's worth, i've never had success with pbblaster.  and since i've stripped my boat down to the hull, so i've had to free plenty of stainless bolts.  the only things that've worked for me

1 nut splitter
2 impact gun
3 heat
4 drilling

if it's a chunky bolt with a nut i'll split the nut and pull/hammer the bolt out.  if it's not a thru bolt, an impact driver usually frees it or snaps the head, in which case i end up drilling the bolt out anyway

heat seems to be the least damaging with varied actual success.  if i have a lot of room i'll use a blow torch to heat the bolt/screw.  if less room you can get pencil tips for the blow torch, makes all the difference. 

otherwise if you have a heavy duty (100w+) soldering iron, you can hold it directly on the bolt/screw.  takes awhile though, but does work sometimes and if there's a lot of wood around the fastener sometimes the safest/least damaging.  there's a fancy induction bolt heater that mechanics use that i envy, but the $1k price tag was not.

drilling is the fall back, which i've sadly done a lot.  just get a center punch and good set of cobalt drill bits, doesn't take too long

the only thing pbblaster ever did for me was make my hands and the surrounding environment stink

Lookin good. It's gettin there.  What product are you using to fair her?

it's west 407.  no particular reason for use, just what i had

sanded the filler and applied a second coat.  i've still got a divet in the middle on the port side, it doesn't look great and it'll reduce a little when i sand this coat down, but i think i'm going to call it good there.  a little bottom paint to cover it over the winter and that'll be it (full bottom paint in the spring).  hopefully this is fixed for good or at least a long time now.

that seems a little pricey.  in NJ, i did the same thing to a C34 a few years ago and paid less then $1k to the marina to unstep and load.  but the devil might be in the details.  literally all the marina did was remove the mast and load it and the boat on the trailer.  i took care of prepping the boat and wrapping cords round the mast to keep the rigging secure.

Maybe you're aware already but make sure to remove all blush b4 overcoating.

yup, i tend to overwash/oversand things with soap water/minerals spirits/etc between coats of varnish/epoxy/etc.

its part of the reason i hate doing drywall, put some on, take off way to much, put some one, take off way to much, then spackle bucket is empty...

it looks like the epoxy shrank a bit during the cure, what looked pretty flat a week ago, now has a little ripple.  and since i happen to have a can of 407 left over from another project we'll add a layer of fairing.  whether i add a second coat or not will depend on how my ocd is that day.  there's a divet on the port side that's a little deeper then i thought it would turn out, but otherwise things aren't that out of whack.  it's getting colder here, so i need to wrap this up

Does anyone know why they switched configurations?  Was there a safety issue?