Topics

I'm working on replacing the Damper plate on my 1987 C34 M25-XP, I have no info about any previous replacment.

My very well respected mechanic that is very familiar with C34's and Universal Engines - suggested that the noise made by the engine in a range of RPM is probably the damper plate. He also commented on how it should be changed out about every 1500 hours - we have over 6000 hours on our engine.

I have downloaded the Parts Manual for the M25XP engine but I do not see how the flywheel is attached to the crankshaft.

It's not that I need to remove the flywheel, I'm just curious about it. Anyone know how the flywheel is attached to the crankshaft  - drawings or pictures would be a bonus.

TIA

It's really really difficult to get a good view of the wiring behind this switch. I have no clew what it's for. ( Red arrow points to it )
1987 C34 Mk 1 Tall Rig fin Keel.

I screwed up. After completing an oil change I checked the belt tension and the coolant level. It was a little low so I decided to add some.

I pulled the yellow jug of what I thought was coolant - didn't check - it wasn't - it was engine oil.

As I began to pour the liquid into the funnel, I immediately realized it was not coolant  I had probably poured about a 1/4 cup of the oil into the coolant tank.

Grrrrrr.

I used a paper towel to mop out the oil from the surface of the coolant.

I did not start the engine!!

So, how bad did I screw up and what suggestions for dealing with it.

BTW we've owned the boat 8 years and only had to add coolant a couple of times, once after servicing the heat exchanger, never any issues. I don't know how to drain the coolant.

I'm guessing the oil will float to the top of the coolant. Perhaps just filling the coolant reservoir with fresh coolant, the oil would float to the top and I could soak it up with paper towel.

Holding my breath.

TIA

Paul

I'm refinishing the interior of Eximius, just done the Galley Drawer Cabinet, turned out really nice.
Next project is the Door on the front of the hanging locker ( just aft of the Nav Table )

But how to refinish the slats?

The Galley Drawer Cabinet was pretty easy, just sand it down to remove 36 years of previous finishes and then apply 3 coats of Water Based Polyurethane.
But sanding those slats, that's a challenge, anyone done it or knows how?

Thanks.
Paul

The thin Alternator support Arm on our 1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel's  M25-XP Universal Engine broke.
I had a new support arm manufactured by a local engineering shop.

Now I feel that it's time to replace the V-Belt with a Serpentine belt, I'm very impressed by the improvements my sailing buddies have experienced on their, different, boats.

Looking at the Balmar 48-USP-M25  Pulley Kit.
I have checked and there is plenty of room between the front of the alternator, crank shaft and coolant pump pulleys to fit the wider serpentine belt pulleys and I can get all of the pulley bolts loosed except for the Alternator which I plan to take to a local alt shop and have them pull the old pulley off and install the new one.

The only question I have is: Is this the correct sized kit? ( Balmar 48-USP-M25 Pulley Kit)

TIA.

Paul

Hi Guys, time to replace the Start Battery ( 5 years old and getting cranky )

I'm in the process of installing a Victron BtoB battery charger to my system ( just finished replacing the entire electrical power management system ). The B2B will charge the Start battery from the House Battery ( currently a 2S2P Trojan T105 6v Battery bank but getting replaced with a LiFePo4 battery bank by the end of the $year.

The current Duracell 12v AGM battery has the terminals on the side and it's mounted under the hanging locker aft of the Nav Table.

Not sure if our current battery is the most appropriate, but definitely want an AGM.

Can you suggest the most appropriate ratings for the battery and any recommendations for the battery brands.

Thanks

Paul

Just saw the notice on FB Boat Electrical Systems that Rodd, a major moderator of that group will be offline for a while needing a lot of re-hab. That kind of news is never good news. We'll be thinking of him. Hang in there Rodd.

While I'm waiting for the parts to arrive to work on the Thermostat housing, my new winches arrived.

The port side winch on the cabin top (Jib Halyard & Topping lift) is not self tailing and the admiral cannot handle tailing and winching at the same time. I purchased a new Lewmar 30 winch from west marine on their BOGO offer, so now I have two nice new winches.

The port winch replacement is easy, the bolt holes in the cabin roof match, the starboard winch is not so easy.
The hole pattern on the winch seem to match with the new winch base, but the holes were not drilled very well and some of the bolts are closer together at the underside of the cabin roof.

I could probably just accept that the hole spacing is irregular.

Alternatively I could drill out the irregular holes, do the old 'clean out, fill, redrill' process.

Considering that the stbd winch hoists the main halyard and the old winch has shown no problems due to the irregular hole spacing.

Any reason not to take the second choice (I know, fix it and go sailing - We're trying!)

Paul

Found some corrosion on the Thermostat Housing where the coolant pipe connects from the coolant tank.

Looks like I should replace the hose.

Wondering if I can just remove the housing, remove the corrosion, new gasket, new hose.

AND Yes! I will be replacing the hose clamps with non-perforated clamps 

TIA.

Paul

Eximius is on the hard getting the butt cleaned and painted and the hull polished, I'm doing a few other things while on the hard.
A couple of the keel bolt nuts are showing a lite corrosion and I have purchased 316 SS nuts and washer with the intent of replacing them all.

However, it would seem pointless to replace them without taking the opportunity to paint the bilge (before putting the new nuts & washers in place)

Because we have to stay on the boat overnight after splashing the boat on Wednesday morning ( a week from today ), and by all accounts the VOCs would make it untenable to sleep on the boat until venting for several days.

Therefore I'm considering doing on nut at a time while the boat is afloat after we get her back to her dock.

The good news is that I was easily able to loosen most of the nuts just to ensure it wasn't going to be an endurance test. I retightened them.

So, ok to replace them one at a time with the boat afloat?

Yes, I searched for this issue, mine is a bit unique.

Our boat (1987 Mk 1) had a new electrical panel or update around 2006 looking at the documentation that came with the boat (I'm at least the 3rd owner).

Over the years, the wiring behind the panel has turned into spaghetti junction, the wire terminals are awful, AC connections are Wirenuts, Circuit breakers have as many as 4 terminals connected on the switched side, there are more butt connections than I have ever seen on a boat. Wire colors and sizes are not either consistent or appropriate and labels - electrical tape that may have something written in crayola years ago.

As I prepare for a major update on the wiring behind the panel, I inspected the AC breakers and in particular, the Reverse Polarity Indicator. The attached photo shows the R.P. Test Switch and lamp, note the empty switch tab. The attached diagram shows what I believe is the correct wiring for the Reverse Polarity Indicator system. (the red wire is the one I believe is missing).

I know that I can purchase a Reverse Polarity Plug to test the shore power at any dock we plug into, but the existing system has the facility, it's just that it doesn't work (at least, I can't see how it works)

Any suggestions? Note. We do have a Galvanic Isolator installed between the Shore Power boat side plug and before a Zantrex Freedom 20 Inverter Charger.

TIA.

Paul

Prepping for my rewire of the electrical panel, I recognize that it might be easier if the Nav table was moved out of the way for the project.

Anyone done that (removed the nav table) that can give any 'be careful' hints.
OR - don't botther, moving it doesn't help.

Thanks.

Paul

I've reached the stage where I can no longer relax knowing that the electrical panel wiring is such a nightmare on Eximius.

I'm planning a complete rewire of the circuit breaker panel and checking each wire to it's destination for quality - many of them have several butt joints and multi color changes as well as wire sizes.

So I'm looking for ideas on how to make it look nice as well as be reliable.

One thing I'm thinking of is to remove the hinge that holds the circuit breaker panel in place so that it can be pulled away from the 'hole'. That would improve access to the 'hole'. Looking at cleaning up the bulkhead and installing terminal blocks for all the inbound wiring and then run looms from the terminal blocks to the panel.

Just wondering what the inside of the hole looks like on other boats. Got any pics?

Anyone got pics of the Mast collar without the boot in place?

I'm considering Spartite (yes, read all of the posts on the subject) but want to see what the partners look like. I saw Stu's pic of the partners filled with rope and silicone but wonder if anyone has clearer pics showing views of the mast in the partners without the boot etc.

Our single piece boot is deteriorating and have no plans to pull the mast for at least a year.

TIA.

Paul

Before I plunge for a pair of davits, I'm curious how many c34 have them.

Also, if you have them, about how high from the water is the dinghy when fully raised?

Thanks

Paul

I'm looking at replumbing our hot and cold water pipes.

Preference would be to get away from hose and clamp style and use push in pipes and fittings.

Any input?

And recommendations for the smallest diameter pipe?

TIA.

PAUL

It's finally time to replace our Dodger. If anyone has seen a quote for a new dodger and choked on the price, don't!

I've posted my first blog post on the process of building our new Dodger, it includes a spreadsheet of the initial costs, I thought it would be around $650, but that's already $200 short!
So far, the estimated cost of Materials is over $800 and I expect it will take at least 5 trips to the boat for initial prep, templating, construction, initial fitting and adjustments. Just doing that many trips to the boat for a business would cost $500 let alone the cost of actual construction. Not sure how long the project will take, but I'm guessing around 20 hours of construction as well, and that would be another $1,000 at $50 an hour and what business can afford to only charge $50 per hour for quality work (I've been sewing for nearly 4 years now and have quite a few projects under my belt, plus about $2000 worth of machine, and tools and I'm just a hammer chewer!)

Here's a link to the blog article.

Paul

Moving along with my Barber Hauler for the Jib.

Now working on a Preventer, wondering which setup you guys have?

I have all the parts needed, just need to determine the best location for the upper and lower attachments.

Current idea is:
... Line from Aft Boom Bale
... Down to a block by the toe rail abaft the shrouds (1/4" U-Bolt with Backing plate)
... Aft to a cam cleat (already in position) on the outside of the combing.

I would setup a preventer on each side to eliminate need to go forward to attach/remove/swap sides.

Anyone have a pic of their setup?

Paul

Confession: I have never setup a preventer or barber hauler on any of my boats.

This Sunday, I went racing (Gunkhole class) on a Catalina 36, on board was a very experienced sailor (now in his late 70s) and he had previously suggested to the owner that he setup a preventer an barber hauler.

I've heard about both, done a little reading, never really got the concept.

That all changed on Sunday! We were running from the 1st mark to the 2nd in about 8kts wind.

Being the more nimble of the crew, I set about rigging the preventer.

It consisted of a 3:1 block setup, the lower block having a cam cleat. Upper block shackled to the aft boom bale, the lower block shackled to the stanchion opposite the mast.

With the Preventer setup, my reaction was - WOW! - what a difference! We basically steered by the Jib, keeping it filled.


With the Jib flying out, the primary jib sheet was running from the Jib Car, up over the lifelines and out to the Jib Clew.
Then he suggested we rig the Barber Hauler.

My instructions were: Attach the Snap Block to the outboard rail, Attach the snap shackle to the Jib Clew, run the line from the clew outside the lifelines, through the block then beneath the lifelines and back to the cockpit.

Again, Wow! the sail filled much better, the leech was not flogging and stayed full more than without the hauler.


Ok, that's the setup.

Was it a Barber Hauler???

From what I've read online since Sunday, it's not! Whatever it is, it works.

So my main question is: How do you guys set a 'Barber Hauler' is it to open the slot or close it when close hauled? Or is it like we did, used to improve the shape of the sail when running downwind?

TIA.

Paul

We heard squealing noises from aft of the dripless, sounded like from the cutlass bearing area. So we might be doing a haul out to replace it.
While sailing and the gear in neutral, I could clearly hear the squeal above deck, but with the aft berth floor panel out of the way, I was certain it was from aft around the cutlass bearing.

Searched the archives, found this thread https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8920.15.html and talks of renting a bearing replacement tool.

As far as 'set screws' are concerned, if there are any in the strut, would they be on the sides, both, one or more screws?

As far as Tools are concerned, where can we rent them from, I don't have the equipment to manufacture them although the tough part is the collets.

Going to the boat today to try and take a video of the shaft / strut. Having a diver routine cleaning later this week. So I should know if it's something stuck that shouldn't be there (baggy etc) or if their is wobble in the shaft at the bearing. Then I can make the decision to haul out or not.

TIA.

Paul

Hi Guys, anyone see something wrong with my planned rewire of my Alternator Regulator system.

Trying to avoid an issue with our old External Regulator giving out at an inopportune time.

Here's the planned diagram.

Our Freedom Battery charger failed - again - this past weekend - got it charging again after applying external low pressure sudden shock treatment  (bare hand slap on the side)

It's not long for this world and they are obsolete.

So looking at replacing the battery charger.

Am I looking for the non-existent all systems charger / controller.

Our boat has a 100 Balmar Alternator (compass marine) - 350W solar power, 120v shore power and I'm thinking of adding a wind turbine.

Ignoring my choices (my boat ;) ) the ideal controller would do something like this.

• Act as external Regulator for the Alternator
• Accept input from Solar Panels
• Accept input from Wind Turbine
• Accept input from 120V shore power
• and (just to make it universal) any other power source

ie. One device that would accept inputs from all sources and magically manage the charge of the two sets of batteries (House and Standby)

The device would have a battery monitor (with option to report 2nd battery info) and inputs from multiple sources.

Oh! And I do not discount LifePo4 batteries (with appropriate BMS's )

As far as my Freedom 2000 goes, it's also a 2kw inverter - not that we ever use it (if we need 120v we'll use shore power or our Honda 2000 i generator. we have a small 400W inverter for any small device that does not have a 12v option.)

Dreaming??

Paul

Just wondering where you are storing the companionway panels while under sail.

We recently made the decision that we would rather have them quickly at hand to close the companion way if needed.

(we were caught in 30-50 knot winds in a 30 minute storm a few weeks ago - the boards were stored under the seat cushions by the cabin table - going down to get them was not an option)

I'm considering storing them either side of the top steps.

Other options?

Paul

Replacement Beckson port latch.

the plastic threaded insert in one of the latches of the aft cabin to cockpit ports has broken. Any resources for replacement?

Paul

Just posted in Fleet 14 asking for a Roll Call of owners around the East Florida Coast..

Paul

Hi Everyone,
as my first task as the new Captain of Fleet 14, I'm asking for a Roll Call.

I'll set the starting line:

My wife, Peggy, and I have owned Eximius for 4 years, we sail on the East Coast of Florida - Lake Worth to Key West & The Bahamas. We're members of the Hillsboro Inlet Sailing Club which is very active.
I know we have at least one other C34 in the club, several C36's and we see quite a few C34s and C36s in our area (Fort Lauderdale - Port Everglades - New River - Biscayne Bay)
My sailing experience started at age 15 when I joined the British Royal Navy and sailed around the world (not all the way around, but in lots of places  ) Our previous boat was a 2005 Catalina 250 Water Ballast which we sold when we purchased Eximius (then named ChrisDeke) in 2015.

With a bit of effort, We should be able to come together and arrange a meet up later this year - heck, it's Florida - so Weather Permitting.

Please post your brief intro.

Thanks.

See you on the water.

Paul

Were in the middle of a 3 week cruise in the western Abacos, which Included a 14 hour Gulf crossing, sailing and motor sailing.

Each time I went to motor due to light winds, I had to duck down into the cabin and turn on the Steaming light.  And again to turn it off when reverting to sail without motor.

So, I was thinking of adding a solenoid into the engine control panel lighting circuit.

When the control panel lights are on then the Steaming lights also.

Reasonable idea??

Paul

I read about an issue of potentially blowing the Alternator Diodes and Regulator if the engine ignition switch is turned off while the engine is running.

In our case, the Alternator is wired to the batteries, ie. not via the Off-1-2-both switch.

Is this a real issue or sales hype for a device to prevent the damage?

Paul

Just surfing around and looking for Cylinder Liners for a possible future rebuild of our M25XP Engine.

I found this document: https://www.fairwind.org/2018/Diesel/Tutorial.pdf

Useful.

Paul

At a rough count, we are pulling about 8 amps max when sailing using the Auto Pilot (GPS, AIS, VHF, AutoPilot, Refrigerator), but let's say it's 10 amps.

10Amps at 12Volts is 120Watts.

We have 350 Watts Solar (but we all know it's never going to produce that even though we are in South Florida)

So, I've been considering a Low Power Wind Turbine (btw, Pet Peeve is when folks call them Wind Generators! - They don't generate Wind!!)

Most all of the smaller wind turbines on line are 400W and have a Blade diameter of about 3' or more.

I'm thinking that a small low power wind generator would be a power benefit while sailing (no need for it when motoring)

The really small (40W to 80W) turbines I've seen online get mostly POS reviews

Any one have any experience of a low power wind turbine, or ideas on the subject.

Yes! I have read pages of reviews here and on cruising forums.

Oh! Happy New Year everyone!

Paul

We're booked to fly up to Annapolis and stay for the Boat Show in October - 2018

Get together?

As so much else has taken a nose dive recently, the noise from the operating shower sump pump has me concerned that it's next in line for failure.

I'm pretty sure it's the original pump, it makes a horrible sound when operating, like a high speed, very loud Tom Tom.

Is there an alternative type of pump available (did not see one on CD)

Paul

We found a fuel seepage leak was due to a patch of corrosion (I know, Aluminum) on the outside (port) side of the tank about 1" above the bottom welded edge. Luckily I found it before it turned into a stream as we had a full fuel tank at the time.

Drained the tank using our spare fuel pump, removed the tank, found the leak, cleaned it up, JB Water Weld and tested by putting fuel in the tank at home. Reinstalled tank, Reconnected all hoses, bonding and fuel contents sender.

Ran the fuel pump for 10 minutes with the bleed screw open max, but it did not calm down to the regular 'tick tick tick'. Ran the engine, all good, at least for about 5-10 minutes when the engine died, sounded like a lack of fuel (stutter stutter stop)

Removed the fuel return hose from the tank, ran the fuel pump (just turned the ignition on), no discharge.

Replaced fuel filter (it was about due), would not prime on it's own, sucked fuel into the filter (just inserted a transparent hose into the output of the filter and took a deep breath) fuel flowed into the fuel filter bowl.
Engine will not run, assumed due to lack of fuel.

Tried to suck fuel through the pump (used the transparent hose connected to the output of the pump) but it was a dead end, total block.

Replaced the fuel pump (guessing it's the original fuel pump 30 years old, corroded top) with the spare, $46 on amazon, primed it by sucking fuel through a transparent hose. Connected up the fuel hoses.
Disconnected the return hose at the tank, ran the pump, fuel flowing, life is good.

Ran engine for 15 minutes, life is good.

So, question: Did I destroy the old fuel pump by running it dry during the post tank reinstall engine run when, I'm assuming, the engine ran on the fuel that was in the line from the pump to the engine?

BTW, the new pump is much quieter than the old one.

New spare pump is arriving today thanks to Amazon prime.

Paul

We found that we had a minor fuel leak as some had collected in the bilge and mixed with the recent heavy rainwater.

I removed the tank, found the leak and repaired it, the repaired tank will be re-installed today/Thursday.

We have cleaned out the bilge and de-fueled the inside of the hull where the leak ran down from the tank shelf to the bilge.

I'm concerned that some of the water/fuel may be on the inside of the hose from the bilge pump going aft, but??? How to clean out the bilge hoses??

The hose is the flexible wire reinforced type hose, so I'm guessing that the inside is kinda 'corrugated'

Thanks.

Paul

Link to blog article about the repair: http://www.sailingeximius.com/2018/06/fuel-tank-woes-part-ii.html

We have decided not to replace our cabin cushion seat backs with the originals which are just taking space in our Garage.

So we have the original 4 cushion seatbacks (fwd cabin seat back, aft cabin seat back and the two stbd side cabin seat backs.)

Going to a good home if anyone wants them.


Close to Fort Lauderdale FL 33063

Paul

I read in a very old post that some Mk 1 models had a 'Bow Water Tank'

Any details of which hull numbers of the Mk 1 did and did not have that tank.

I'm curious, and as we use the boat for more than just a weekend jaunt quite often, a third tank might be worth the effort.

Where was the thank installed?

Thanks.

Paul

We have booked our Flight and Hotel.

Hope Catalina has a good turnout.

Paul

It bugged me that it was so difficult to get the tension on the drive belt tight.

I had read that it should allow a 1/2" deflection of the drive belt, but getting that with a long lever between the engine and the alternator was nearly impossible.

So I made a tensioner.

http://www.sailingeximius.com/2018/02/tensioning-engine-drive-belt.html

Paul

Our recently installed new Oberdorfer pump is leaking (just an annoying amount) between the Pump and the Engine Body. It was a new Gasket.

Is there a trick to seating the gasket, some goop on each side? etc?

Paul

Our boat has an unusual cabin table setup.

The PO raised the Seats around the table and raised the table.

On the plus side, there is tons of storage beneath the raised seats and when sitting at the table we can see out of the windows. And there's additional storage beneath the raised table (it was raised about the same height as the seat base is from the cabin sole.

On the down side, there are no seat backs behind any of the cushions around the table. If sat on the Stbd seat, the chain plate rods are annoying. If sat in front of the galley, there's only about a 6" high bulkhead between the seat and the counter. If sat on the forward most cushion (ie. facing aft) there is no seat back, we just lean against the v-berth bulkhead.

Then the table is rugly, I mean Really Ugly, it has drop leaves on each end that are supported in the up position with metal bars that swing out from the table center. It's a plain ply table with what may be original teak edging.

So... Looking for ideas for replacing the table.

Things I'm considering:
.. Leaves fold up or fold down, but must have leaves as the Admiral has a tough time getting sat at the table.
.. Teak edging or No raised edges. If the sea is rough, then we snack on the setee or in the cockpit rather than sit at the table.
.. Material: Wood, Plastic (yuk), Teak, Ply, Butcher Block.
.. Leaf hinges: Metal, Wooden (cut into table and leaves)

Would really appreciate input and pics if your table is not original.

Thanks.

Paul

I have replaced the Oberdorfer Pump with a new unit and have the rebuild kit for the old pump.

Using the tool described (thanks Ron) the Oil Seal and Water Seal were easy to remove.

I used a 5/8" socket as a block to hammer out the old carbon bearing without any damage to the pump body.

Now the body is cleaned up and I'm ready for the rebuild.

I see how to replace the two seals, but how to replace the carbon bearing?

It seems to be an interference fit, so my initial guess is to use a block of wood to press it into the pump body.

Cannot find any links to a how to on this one and wondered if anyone has a clue on safe technique.

Paul

Rudder Dimensions C34 Tall Rig Wing Keel

Eximius is on the Hard for a bottom paint, new Rub Rail, new Thru Hull, Rudder bearing repair, etc. etc.

We had to drop the rudder in order to install the Catalina Direct Rudder Bearing Epoxy Repair Kit.

I took pictures and measurements of the rudder (after repairing damage from a grounding several weeks ago)

Thought the dimensions would be valuable.

Paul

[Other than the Whirlpool filter requiring more space, any downside to using it v the Raritan strainer?]

I'm about to replace all of the Water Lines in the galley. Just replaced the Water faucet but the old hose & barb joints are failing, just touching them leads to another leak.

I have everything I need except a new water filter.

The current water filter might be original, the top is corroded and looks very fragile. So I need to replace that too.

I have two of these filters on board, one is for the Engine Raw Water strainer and the other for the Air Conditioner raw water supply. I deliberately got matching strainers to reduce the number of spares I need carry and with the concept of 'Right now the engine is more important than the AC, so swap out the strainers'

So, I'm thinking of getting a 3rd of the same type. They are $47.99 + Tax but even West Marine is out of stock.

Searching around I found one that matches the other two on board, and an alternative.

The Strainer is $47.99 Plus tax, the Undersink Water filter is $47.99 at the local hardware store.

Other than the Whirlpool filter requiring more space, any downside to using it v the Raritan strainer?

The 1st image is a Raritan Water Strainer

2nd is Whirlpool Undersink Water Filter

3rd is our current water strainer - I know, YUK!

I had a spare Oberdorfer Pump on the boat when I purchased her, I changed them out and now would like to service the old one but am not certain of the model.

The body casting has the numbers 8928-5P and 0108
The Impeller cover plate has no markings but the body does have an O-ring where the plate attaches with 4 bolts.

I have read Mainesail's article about servicing a similar pump on his site.

Any advice on the model, or how'to ?

Paul

We missed out on the New Years Eve Cruise because of a horrific Squeal from the alternator and the pulley was too hot to touch even after less than 2 minutes of engine running (we shut it down once the sound was identified and restarted it with the steps out in order to locate the sound)

Initial thought was that it was the Alternator Bearing - but the alternator is only 7 months old. I took it to a local Alternator shop and they tested it, bearing are perfect and the 100A alternator was loaded to produce 140A during the test, quiet as a mouse - definitely not the bearing.

I took the drive belt with me to the shop and asked them to inspect it with more experienced eyes than mine, as I pulled it from the bag the tech's 1st words - Wrong Belt! The alternator has a 1/2" pulley and that's not a 1/2" belt! General consensus is that Belt Squealed because it was slipping -

When I purchased the boat in 2015, I took the belt info and purchased 2 spares matching the original. The belt is 13/32"

Back at the boat, I measured the Crank Shaft Pulley and the Coolant Pump Pulley - both are 13/32" I also measured the Original Alternator Pulley - 1/2"

Choices: Replace the alternator pulley with 13/32", Replace the 2 engine pulleys with 1/2" or get a belt about 14/32"

Now, why did it slip? Belt Tension!

I'm pretty certain that this is the issue. The Alternator Support Arm (pic attached) has the tensioning slot and the spring washer that is between the arm and the bolt head has spread.

My solution: Make a plate to cover the Arm Slot, bent around one side of the Arm to prevent rotation.

Paul

Does anyone have a link to a diagram that shows the Bilge Layout on a Mark 1 ??

I'm curious about the bilge areas forward of the mast.

From inspection Aft of the Mast are 3 bilge areas - Mast -||- Bilge Float Swtich area -||- Bilge Pump area -||- Aft Bilge area beneath the Water heater

In front of the mast is a single Bilge with 1 keel bolt.

The V-berth has a limber hole that drains aft but does it go to a separate bilge area or does it feed directly into the area directly in front of the mast?

A pic would be great!

Thanks.

Paul

Just a heads up.

I noticed considerable corrosion on the Gooseneck Bolt - will change it out today if I can get the new bolt.

Paul

This is the largest image I could upload else I get "Your file is too large. The maximum attachment size allowed is 512 KB."

Not sure if the resize / retain original is working.

Paul

We found an issue during our 5 day cruise down to Biscayne Bay and back over the past long weekend.

The Tachometer would indicate 0 rpm while the engine ran fine, just a change in the engine sound.

It happened many times (after about 4 hours of motoring).

I'm leaning towards it being a regulator issue.

Wrote up details on my blog. http://www.sailingeximius.com/2017/11/regulation-issues.html

Paul

Just found this online.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/PORTER-CABLE-4-5-in-20-Volt-Volt-Cordless-Angle-Grinder-Bare-Tool-Only/50074199

Thinking of getting one as an emergency cable cutter.

Paul

[Total time logged in: 6 days, 22 minutes.]

When I log into the forum, the two links, to the right of my icon, are showing white, barely visible, they do change with mouse over. If someone didn't know they were there the links would be missed.
I've copied the link text below and set it to beige to illustrate the issue.

Show unread posts since last visit.
Show new replies to your posts.
Total time logged in: 6 days, 22 minutes.

Paul