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Topics - britinusa

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 9
Main Message Board / Replacing cabin top winches
« on: June 25, 2021, 02:52:20 PM »
While I'm waiting for the parts to arrive to work on the Thermostat housing, my new winches arrived.

The port side winch on the cabin top (Jib Halyard & Topping lift) is not self tailing and the admiral cannot handle tailing and winching at the same time. I purchased a new Lewmar 30 winch from west marine on their BOGO offer, so now I have two nice new winches.

The port winch replacement is easy, the bolt holes in the cabin roof match, the starboard winch is not so easy.
The hole pattern on the winch seem to match with the new winch base, but the holes were not drilled very well and some of the bolts are closer together at the underside of the cabin roof.

I could probably just accept that the hole spacing is irregular.

Alternatively I could drill out the irregular holes, do the old 'clean out, fill, redrill' process.

Considering that the stbd winch hoists the main halyard and the old winch has shown no problems due to the irregular hole spacing.

Any reason not to take the second choice (I know, fix it and go sailing - We're trying!)


Main Message Board / Universal M25-XP Thermostat Housing
« on: June 21, 2021, 03:18:40 PM »
Found some corrosion on the Thermostat Housing where the coolant pipe connects from the coolant tank.

Looks like I should replace the hose.

Wondering if I can just remove the housing, remove the corrosion, new gasket, new hose.

AND Yes! I will be replacing the hose clamps with non-perforated clamps  :D



Main Message Board / Replacing keel nuts in the water
« on: January 20, 2021, 11:01:52 AM »
Eximius is on the hard getting the butt cleaned and painted and the hull polished, I'm doing a few other things while on the hard.
A couple of the keel bolt nuts are showing a lite corrosion and I have purchased 316 SS nuts and washer with the intent of replacing them all.

However, it would seem pointless to replace them without taking the opportunity to paint the bilge (before putting the new nuts & washers in place)

Because we have to stay on the boat overnight after splashing the boat on Wednesday morning ( a week from today ), and by all accounts the VOCs would make it untenable to sleep on the boat until venting for several days.

Therefore I'm considering doing on nut at a time while the boat is afloat after we get her back to her dock.

The good news is that I was easily able to loosen most of the nuts just to ensure it wasn't going to be an endurance test. I retightened them.

So, ok to replace them one at a time with the boat afloat?

Main Message Board / Reverse Polarity Indicator Wiring
« on: October 16, 2020, 07:52:05 AM »
Yes, I searched for this issue, mine is a bit unique.

Our boat (1987 Mk 1) had a new electrical panel or update around 2006 looking at the documentation that came with the boat (I'm at least the 3rd owner).

Over the years, the wiring behind the panel has turned into spaghetti junction, the wire terminals are awful, AC connections are Wirenuts, Circuit breakers have as many as 4 terminals connected on the switched side, there are more butt connections than I have ever seen on a boat. Wire colors and sizes are not either consistent or appropriate and labels - electrical tape that may have something written in crayola years ago.

As I prepare for a major update on the wiring behind the panel, I inspected the AC breakers and in particular, the Reverse Polarity Indicator. The attached photo shows the R.P. Test Switch and lamp, note the empty switch tab. The attached diagram shows what I believe is the correct wiring for the Reverse Polarity Indicator system. (the red wire is the one I believe is missing).

I know that I can purchase a Reverse Polarity Plug to test the shore power at any dock we plug into, but the existing system has the facility, it's just that it doesn't work (at least, I can't see how it works)

Any suggestions? Note. We do have a Galvanic Isolator installed between the Shore Power boat side plug and before a Zantrex Freedom 20 Inverter Charger.



Main Message Board / Removing the Nav Table
« on: September 17, 2020, 07:36:52 AM »
Prepping for my rewire of the electrical panel, I recognize that it might be easier if the Nav table was moved out of the way for the project.

Anyone done that (removed the nav table) that can give any 'be careful' hints.
OR - don't botther, moving it doesn't help.



I've reached the stage where I can no longer relax knowing that the electrical panel wiring is such a nightmare on Eximius.

I'm planning a complete rewire of the circuit breaker panel and checking each wire to it's destination for quality - many of them have several butt joints and multi color changes as well as wire sizes.

So I'm looking for ideas on how to make it look nice as well as be reliable.

One thing I'm thinking of is to remove the hinge that holds the circuit breaker panel in place so that it can be pulled away from the 'hole'. That would improve access to the 'hole'. Looking at cleaning up the bulkhead and installing terminal blocks for all the inbound wiring and then run looms from the terminal blocks to the panel.

Just wondering what the inside of the hole looks like on other boats. Got any pics?

Main Message Board / Mast collar and Partners pics
« on: July 22, 2020, 08:59:32 AM »
Anyone got pics of the Mast collar without the boot in place?

I'm considering Spartite (yes, read all of the posts on the subject) but want to see what the partners look like. I saw Stu's pic of the partners filled with rope and silicone but wonder if anyone has clearer pics showing views of the mast in the partners without the boot etc.

Our single piece boot is deteriorating and have no plans to pull the mast for at least a year.



Main Message Board / Davits... do you have them?l
« on: February 06, 2020, 07:05:32 AM »
Before I plunge for a pair of davits, I'm curious how many c34 have them.

Also, if you have them, about how high from the water is the dinghy when fully raised?



Main Message Board / Smallest plumbing pipe diameter
« on: February 06, 2020, 06:58:27 AM »
I'm looking at replumbing our hot and cold water pipes.

Preference would be to get away from hose and clamp style and use push in pipes and fittings.

Any input?

And recommendations for the smallest diameter pipe?



Main Message Board / New Dodger
« on: November 02, 2019, 05:15:36 AM »
It's finally time to replace our Dodger. If anyone has seen a quote for a new dodger and choked on the price, don't!

I've posted my first blog post on the process of building our new Dodger, it includes a spreadsheet of the initial costs, I thought it would be around $650, but that's already $200 short!
So far, the estimated cost of Materials is over $800 and I expect it will take at least 5 trips to the boat for initial prep, templating, construction, initial fitting and adjustments. Just doing that many trips to the boat for a business would cost $500 let alone the cost of actual construction. Not sure how long the project will take, but I'm guessing around 20 hours of construction as well, and that would be another $1,000 at $50 an hour and what business can afford to only charge $50 per hour for quality work (I've been sewing for nearly 4 years now and have quite a few projects under my belt, plus about $2000 worth of machine, and tools and I'm just a hammer chewer!)

Here's a link to the blog article.


Main Message Board / Rigging a Preventer
« on: September 06, 2019, 10:51:43 AM »
Moving along with my Barber Hauler for the Jib.

Now working on a Preventer, wondering which setup you guys have?

I have all the parts needed, just need to determine the best location for the upper and lower attachments.

Current idea is:
... Line from Aft Boom Bale
... Down to a block by the toe rail abaft the shrouds (1/4" U-Bolt with Backing plate)
... Aft to a cam cleat (already in position) on the outside of the combing.

I would setup a preventer on each side to eliminate need to go forward to attach/remove/swap sides.

Anyone have a pic of their setup?


Main Message Board / Rigging a Barber Hauler
« on: August 27, 2019, 06:51:00 AM »
Confession: I have never setup a preventer or barber hauler on any of my boats.

This Sunday, I went racing (Gunkhole class) on a Catalina 36, on board was a very experienced sailor (now in his late 70s) and he had previously suggested to the owner that he setup a preventer an barber hauler.

I've heard about both, done a little reading, never really got the concept.

That all changed on Sunday! We were running from the 1st mark to the 2nd in about 8kts wind.

Being the more nimble of the crew, I set about rigging the preventer.

It consisted of a 3:1 block setup, the lower block having a cam cleat. Upper block shackled to the aft boom bale, the lower block shackled to the stanchion opposite the mast.

With the Preventer setup, my reaction was - WOW! - what a difference! We basically steered by the Jib, keeping it filled.

With the Jib flying out, the primary jib sheet was running from the Jib Car, up over the lifelines and out to the Jib Clew.
Then he suggested we rig the Barber Hauler.

My instructions were: Attach the Snap Block to the outboard rail, Attach the snap shackle to the Jib Clew, run the line from the clew outside the lifelines, through the block then beneath the lifelines and back to the cockpit.

Again, Wow! the sail filled much better, the leech was not flogging and stayed full more than without the hauler.

Ok, that's the setup.

Was it a Barber Hauler???

From what I've read online since Sunday, it's not! Whatever it is, it works.

So my main question is: How do you guys set a 'Barber Hauler' is it to open the slot or close it when close hauled? Or is it like we did, used to improve the shape of the sail when running downwind?



Main Message Board / Might be replacing our Cutlass Bearing - tools?
« on: July 29, 2019, 06:29:38 AM »
We heard squealing noises from aft of the dripless, sounded like from the cutlass bearing area. So we might be doing a haul out to replace it.
While sailing and the gear in neutral, I could clearly hear the squeal above deck, but with the aft berth floor panel out of the way, I was certain it was from aft around the cutlass bearing.

Searched the archives, found this thread,8920.15.html and talks of renting a bearing replacement tool.

As far as 'set screws' are concerned, if there are any in the strut, would they be on the sides, both, one or more screws?

As far as Tools are concerned, where can we rent them from, I don't have the equipment to manufacture them although the tough part is the collets.

Going to the boat today to try and take a video of the shaft / strut. Having a diver routine cleaning later this week. So I should know if it's something stuck that shouldn't be there (baggy etc) or if their is wobble in the shaft at the bearing. Then I can make the decision to haul out or not.



Hi Guys, anyone see something wrong with my planned rewire of my Alternator Regulator system.

Trying to avoid an issue with our old External Regulator giving out at an inopportune time.

Here's the planned diagram.

Our Freedom Battery charger failed - again - this past weekend - got it charging again after applying external low pressure sudden shock treatment  (bare hand slap on the side)

It's not long for this world and they are obsolete.

So looking at replacing the battery charger.

Am I looking for the non-existent all systems charger / controller.

Our boat has a 100 Balmar Alternator (compass marine) - 350W solar power, 120v shore power and I'm thinking of adding a wind turbine.

Ignoring my choices (my boat ;) ) the ideal controller would do something like this.
  • Act as external Regulator for the Alternator
  • Accept input from Solar Panels
  • Accept input from Wind Turbine
  • Accept input from 120V shore power
  • and (just to make it universal) any other power source

ie. One device that would accept inputs from all sources and magically manage the charge of the two sets of batteries (House and Standby)

The device would have a battery monitor (with option to report 2nd battery info) and inputs from multiple sources.

Oh! And I do not discount LifePo4 batteries (with appropriate BMS's )

As far as my Freedom 2000 goes, it's also a 2kw inverter - not that we ever use it (if we need 120v we'll use shore power or our Honda 2000 i generator. we have a small 400W inverter for any small device that does not have a 12v option.)



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