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1

Main Message Board / Re: Replacing cabin top winches

« on: July 14, 2021, 05:41:15 AM »

I removed the port winch.
All 5 screws are bent and only 3 of the 5 holes in the plinth line up with the new winch base.

I definitely have to drill pot re-drill the holes. Purchased 1.5" 316 Fender washers which should cover the underside exit of the old holes.
Waiting for a dry day (we're in soggy SoFla) to get that done.

Working on it.

Paul

2

Main Message Board / Re: Replacing cabin top winches

« on: June 25, 2021, 03:19:01 PM »

Thanks Ken, I check Rod's site often, he has covered much of the stuff that I needed help with.

Paul

3

Main Message Board / Replacing cabin top winches

« on: June 25, 2021, 02:52:20 PM »

While I'm waiting for the parts to arrive to work on the Thermostat housing, my new winches arrived.

The port side winch on the cabin top (Jib Halyard & Topping lift) is not self tailing and the admiral cannot handle tailing and winching at the same time. I purchased a new Lewmar 30 winch from west marine on their BOGO offer, so now I have two nice new winches.

The port winch replacement is easy, the bolt holes in the cabin roof match, the starboard winch is not so easy.
The hole pattern on the winch seem to match with the new winch base, but the holes were not drilled very well and some of the bolts are closer together at the underside of the cabin roof.

I could probably just accept that the hole spacing is irregular.

Alternatively I could drill out the irregular holes, do the old 'clean out, fill, redrill' process.

Considering that the stbd winch hoists the main halyard and the old winch has shown no problems due to the irregular hole spacing.

Any reason not to take the second choice (I know, fix it and go sailing - We're trying!)

Paul

4

Main Message Board / Re: Universal M25-XP Thermostat Housing

« on: June 25, 2021, 01:28:44 PM »

Thanks guys,
I'm ordering the silicone hose and the non-perforated hose clamps before I strip it down.

Suggestions about the insulation on the senders - Thank you!

I may be able to remark more about the corrosion when I strip down the housing.

Thanks.

Paul

5

Main Message Board / Re: Universal M25-XP Thermostat Housing

« on: June 23, 2021, 04:27:52 PM »

I'll take lots of pics when I take it all apart.

Ken, could I use Silicone hose between the tank and the thermostat housing?

Paul

6

Main Message Board / Re: Universal M25-XP Thermostat Housing

« on: June 23, 2021, 11:29:08 AM »

And the replacement hose?

7

Main Message Board / Universal M25-XP Thermostat Housing

« on: June 21, 2021, 03:18:40 PM »

Found some corrosion on the Thermostat Housing where the coolant pipe connects from the coolant tank.

Looks like I should replace the hose.

Wondering if I can just remove the housing, remove the corrosion, new gasket, new hose.

AND Yes! I will be replacing the hose clamps with non-perforated clamps 

TIA.

Paul

8

Main Message Board / Re: Longest chain rode without a windlass?

« on: March 15, 2021, 11:32:50 AM »

What is a “West Marine Anchor” ?

It's a '25lb West Marine Premium Anchor'  I know.
It was on sale at West Marine for about $64 get it out of the store sale.

Turns out it's a pretty good anchor. We regularly anchor in a muddy bay (Sunrise Bay Fort Lauderdale Florida) and our old anchor often pulled out, this one has not let us drag once, yet!

9

Main Message Board / Re: Longest chain rode without a windlass?

« on: February 12, 2021, 01:24:21 PM »

Eximius has a 25lb West Marine Anchor and 100' of 5/16" chain with 100' of additional rode.

We rarely anchor in depths greater than 12' here in South Florida and the Bahamas.

I see many crew pulling up their boat anchors and my bits shiver when I think of the pain they are self inflicting.

Here's how I retrieve the anchor.
# Open the anchor locker lids and tie them off to the pulpit.
# Pull in the chain by hand, moving the boat forwards if there is any strain on the snubber. And wrap the chain around the center bow cleat.
# Remove the Nylon Anchor snubber (which is secure to the anchor chain with a rolling hitched 1/4" Dynema line)
# With the chain still slack, release the chain from the cleat and stand up holding the chain in both hands.
# Reaching forwards with one hand and grasping the chain about a foot in front of my other hand then moving the back hand forwards, so together.
# With the strain now on both hands and arm pretty straight, I lean back, rolling on my heels, pulling about a foot of chain.
# As I lean forwards, I move my hands over to reach the next foot of chain.
# Repeat that action until the chain is up and down with the anchor still dug in to the bottom.
# If the next lean back does not release the anchor from the bottom I cleat the chain and we break the anchor free by moving the boat forwards.
# Once freed from the bottom, I uncleat the chain and continue to pull it up by leaning back for each foot of chain.

This method protects my back and doesn't strain back or arms.

 

Paul

10

Main Message Board / Replacing keel nuts in the water

« on: January 20, 2021, 11:01:52 AM »

Eximius is on the hard getting the butt cleaned and painted and the hull polished, I'm doing a few other things while on the hard.
A couple of the keel bolt nuts are showing a lite corrosion and I have purchased 316 SS nuts and washer with the intent of replacing them all.

However, it would seem pointless to replace them without taking the opportunity to paint the bilge (before putting the new nuts & washers in place)

Because we have to stay on the boat overnight after splashing the boat on Wednesday morning ( a week from today ), and by all accounts the VOCs would make it untenable to sleep on the boat until venting for several days.

Therefore I'm considering doing on nut at a time while the boat is afloat after we get her back to her dock.

The good news is that I was easily able to loosen most of the nuts just to ensure it wasn't going to be an endurance test. I retightened them.

So, ok to replace them one at a time with the boat afloat?

11

Main Message Board / Re: Access Panel in Head

« on: November 07, 2020, 09:26:39 AM »

Jon, can you provide a few more pics of that water strainer (Vetus FTR140/16 ) that looks like a really good solution.

If our Raw Water intake is blocked (baggy, grass, etc) I have to disconnect the hose that connects to the thru hull and use a rod to clean anything from the intake. Your solution appears to setup such that you only have to take the lid off of the strainer and use a rod to clear. I'm guessing that the strainer is high enough that very little water overflows when the lid is removed (assuming the thru hull to be opened)

Paul.

12

Main Message Board / Re: Reverse Polarity Indicator Wiring

« on: October 23, 2020, 11:38:04 AM »

Well spotted Stu.
We do, but not what one would guess.

The Freedom Inverter is controlled by the Link 2000 system, Not by the 'Inverter' circuit breaker.

The 'Inverter' circuit breaker does not have a connection on the switched side.

We do have a 2nd inverter 400w. It's located in Aft Cabin. Used to charge the Handheld VHF, Winchrite, and Dyson Vacuum cleaner.

Not sure why the 'Inverter' circuit breaker is there! I'm making a connection between it and the terminal blocks simply to allow for any future use, can't think of any right now.

I spent quite a while figuring out what it was for. PO didn't know either.

13

Main Message Board / Re: Reverse Polarity Indicator Wiring

« on: October 22, 2020, 03:45:56 PM »

Modified as per Ken's suggestions.

Thanks Ken!

14

Main Message Board / Re: Reverse Polarity Indicator Wiring

« on: October 22, 2020, 03:39:53 PM »

Ken, good points.

I like your idea of having the Green LED indicate that Shore Power is connected to the boat ie. Plugged in! An easy change.

Yes, the wires will connect to the breakers and not be spliced.

I was not changing out the Dual Circuit breaker. But I am replacing the lead Outlets (Port & Stbd) for GFCI.

Paul

15

Main Message Board / Re: Reverse Polarity Indicator Wiring

« on: October 20, 2020, 10:47:47 AM »

Thanks Ken, I really appreciate the effort you put into that.
You are correct, the GI should be shown on the boat side of the diagram.

Using that, and talking (email) with blue sea, and re-reading Don Casey's Sailboat Electrics Simplified, I came up with this schematic.

It provides continuous indication of a reverse polarity test and shows when Shore Power / Gen Power is connected and switched on.

Blue sea confirmed that the LED's that I purchased have 33kΩ but I will test that they illuminate when connected.