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I changed out Eximius' Mounts with K75's around 2016, in 2024 Vibrations returned in 2024 so I replaced them again.
Didn't solve the issue, actually it was worse.

Had a mechanic check it out and he figured it was the Damper Plate. I replaced that and the vibrations / noise dramatically reduced. The old damper plate was shot, the springs were intact but were no longer providing any decent physical connection from the Flywheel to the Gearbox input.

I had never heard of a 'damper plate' prior to this.

Paul

Another thing I have considered but this thread brings more food for thought.

Port side 4 clutches: Jib Halyard, Topping Lift, 1st Reef downhaul, 2nd Reef down haul.
Stbd side 4 clutches: Main sheet, Main Halyard, 1st Reef Outhaul, 2nd Reef outhaul.

Loose footed main with Outhaul on the boom cleat.

I do adjust the main outhaul before raising the main if light winds are forecast, but rarely have the need to adjust it once on the Ocean. Not a racer but do like the boat to sail well.

Paul

I currently have 300Ah of LiFePo4 batteries located in the original battery bay ( replaced the old 4x 6v Trojan batteries ) I'll be upgrading that to 500Ah when the two new, identical, batteries arrive.

One thing I ask is that if we mention LiFePo4 Batteries, we should specify the chemistry. It's Lithium Iron Phosphate or LiFePo4  not Lithium, not LFP et. al. The reason I suggest this is that some folks are not aware of the differences and those different chemistries are very different.

When I finish the upgrade, I'll be removing the Propane System and installing an Induction Cooktop and Combo Air Fryer oven.  The current 300Ah allows me to run our Air Conditioner for 4 hours leaving at least 20% SOC.  We do have a EU2000i Honda generator and that can run the AC but at night it's too much noise.

My ears perked up when you said you could run the AC for 4 hours on a 300AH battery. My spitball math says it should be about 2 Hours.

Marin Air says their 16000 BTU unit draws 1500 Watts for 12.5 Amps at 120V AC. That should work out to about 100 Amps at 12 Volts to the inverter. At 3 hours a 300 AH battery should be dead. Subtract a bit for inefficiency, and I think you could run it for a little over two hours and leave a reasonable percentage.

Do you have a smaller air conditioner? Are you counting the total time, including the time the AC has cycled off? Or is math not correct?

I am getting ready to order LifePO4 batteries and an inverter, so I'm very interested in your experience. I've been thinking that if I want to run the AC for any meaningful amount of time I'd need 400-600Ah of battery.

Thanks

Jack

The 4 hours run time is just that, the AC is turned on for 4 hours, yes, it cycles on and off ( I have a Soft Start installed so the starting doesn't pull the max Amps ) I could run it for about another hour but really don't want to take the LiFePo4 batteries that low.

Just received the two additional batteries and have them charged 100%  Will be installing them in the next few weeks ( doing a bunch of canvas work right now )

Eximius had a small leak beneath the Line Stoppers on the Port Side. I rebedded them, solved.

Boat came to us with the old Raymarine Wheelpilot Autopilot, never worked well and eventually failed. New unit is the Raymarine ( EV100 Wheelpilot with Rudder Position Sensor. Works Great. Interfaces with our Garmin Network via a NEMA2000 to SeaTalk2K interconnect. That means that the Autopilot can follow 'Heading', 'Wind' or 'Track'. ie. If we setup a track on our Garmin 943xsv then we can switch the AP to Track Mode and it will ask if we want to turn onto the Track. Selecting 'Yes' will cause the AP to automatically turn towards the nearest segment of the track and then, when it intersects the track, it will automatically turn along the track and keep on course. When we reach a Turn point on the track, the AP will ask if we want to turn, selecting 'Yes' will put the boat on the next segment of the track, selecting 'no' will drop out of Track Mode. Love it! I posted an article about the Rudder Position Sensor on my blog.

I currently have 300Ah of LiFePo4 batteries located in the original battery bay ( replaced the old 4x 6v Trojan batteries ) I'll be upgrading that to 500Ah when the two new, identical, batteries arrive.

One thing I ask is that if we mention LiFePo4 Batteries, we should specify the chemistry. It's Lithium Iron Phosphate or LiFePo4  not Lithium, not LFP et. al. The reason I suggest this is that some folks are not aware of the differences and those different chemistries are very different.

When I finish the upgrade, I'll be removing the Propane System and installing an Induction Cooktop and Combo Air Fryer oven.  The current 300Ah allows me to run our Air Conditioner for 4 hours leaving at least 20% SOC.  We do have a EU2000i Honda generator and that can run the AC but at night it's too much noise.

We never fill the fuel tank from a marina, always use a diesel cannister and the syphon that others have mentioned.

I keep a mesh bag with the Syphon, Clean up cloth, Tank Key, Line ( to secure the can to the rail by the fuel fill ) and a bottle of bio protection fluid.

My process is to move the diesel can to the back combing and secure it to the rail with the line, unlock the fuel fill cap, pour the right amount of bio protection into the diesel can, use the syphon to transfer most of the diesel in the can leaving a small amount behind. When transfer is complete, wrap the syphon hose with the clean up cloth and withdraw the hose from the fill point catching any drips from the hose with the cloth. Close up the fuel fill point, dry off the hose and release the diesel can from the rail. Put everything back in the bag and leave it out to air in order to eliminate any smell from the cloth.

It makes everything much easier having all bits and pieces in one place to get the job done.

We went with Dynema in 2017 and they are just as good today.

I did ensure there were no chafe points where the lines passed through the tops of the Stantions.

Here's a link to my blog article about them:=- click here

Recently our Hot tank sprung a leak, no choice, I could not find the leak so I installed a replacement.

The 'funky' smell in our water, which occurred every time we left the boat water tanks sit for a few weeks,  disappeared after replacing the tank.

Thanks Ken.

DUH!

 

I think that also answers my last question about the Torque setting for the Hex Cap Screws that hold the plate in place.

Paul

I know this topic is nearly 4 years old but still relevant.

I have my new damper plate and it fits. However Took a bit of Googling, but I think I found the correct torque for the Hex Cap Screws that secure the damper plate to the flywheel.

The screws are    "298458   M5 x 12 Cap screw Din 912"

I found one resource indicating that the torque should be 10Nm.

I'll have to get a torque wrench for that. I have a digital torque driver up to 6Nm and a larger one but not 10Nm.

Just wondered if anyone could confirm the 10Nm Torque setting.

Paul

I'm working on replacing the Damper plate on my 1987 C34 M25-XP, I have no info about any previous replacment.

My very well respected mechanic that is very familiar with C34's and Universal Engines - suggested that the noise made by the engine in a range of RPM is probably the damper plate. He also commented on how it should be changed out about every 1500 hours - we have over 6000 hours on our engine.

I have downloaded the Parts Manual for the M25XP engine but I do not see how the flywheel is attached to the crankshaft.

It's not that I need to remove the flywheel, I'm just curious about it. Anyone know how the flywheel is attached to the crankshaft  - drawings or pictures would be a bonus.

TIA

Strataglass comes with brand name stickers and an instruction sheet. I buy the glass in packs of 5 sheets, so that's five stickers and five instruction sheets - every customer gets one. The instructions are really clear. Use water and Imar products.

Ok, we have EarTec headsets 'Marriage Savers'

We tried hand signals. I would tap my head to indicate we need to shift to neutral. So picture this. I'm on the bow, holding the anchor chain in place and barely holding it against the movement of the boat under idle power forward. I tap my head with one hand, holding the chain with the other - nothing - I would have to turn around to look at the cockpit to see if the Admiral had seen my signal - I do have a slender body, but can you twist your body while holding on to the chain will all your might single handed? So I tap my head again - nothing - Now I'm beating my damned head and now it's time to shout 'NEUTRAL' OK is the reply and pressure on the chain eases. I lock off the chain and signal for go astern in order to drag the anchor out of the mud. Tap my head - nothing - the boat is now dragging the anchor and the strain on the chain is too much for me to unlock the chain from the cleat = Tap my head again. Now I'm thinking, perhaps I need a hard hat!


I go online and order the Eartecs - No more shouting and no need for a hard hat. Oh, I have replaced the ear muffs several times and on my 3 set of batteries.  We always have two fully charged batteries at the ready.   

I have replaced the vinyl on several dodgers, always used Strataglass 40 until one customer wanted to use a cheaper solution. Didn't work out. After delivering the completed dodger and side windows, they, correctly, complained that the glass was wrinkled - I thought they meant the glass was not laying flat, unusual but could happen. That was not the issue, there were tiny 'wrinkles' in the glass, just slight imperfections, it looked as though they were looking through water.  I could not see it in my shop. They up-paid for Strataglass and I replaced the wrinkly glass. They have been cruising in the Bahamas for over a year now, no complaints.  ( I ate the cost of the replacement work ) Now I only use Strataglass. Just did 8 rollup replacements on a Trawler.