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Messages - Jim Brener

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1
Catalina 34s for Sale / Wind Spirit 1987 East Coast Location
« on: October 08, 2018, 01:12:27 PM »
Wind Spirit hull 504 tall rig, wing keel is for sale. Besides installed equipment, we are conveying a dink, outboard motor, gas grill and Cruiseair hatch air conditioner. The boat is listed on Yacht World.  The broker is George Sabo, Integrity Yacht Sales, cell 301-641-3018. email gsabo@integrityyachtsales.com

The boat is in a slip at Herrington Harbour North, Tracys Landing, MD 15mn South of Annapolis

2
Main Message Board / Re: Fuel Pump 101 UPDATE and CRITICAL QUESTION
« on: May 15, 2018, 10:16:24 AM »
I installed the NAPA 610-1074 fuel pump with no problems.  It mounted in the same holes as the OEM pump.  The black wire from the pump was connected to the existing black wire.  It does make a clicking sound, somewhat fast so I need to try to adjust it at the knob (now missing) at the engine to see if the click slows down.  The cost $149.00 plus tax, could have chased down a lower cost for the same item but time was more important than money in this case.

The Fuel Pump 101 should be cleaned up with the old posts with old part numbers removed.  Since there are two NAPA pumps with different pressures, a note that the 4-5.5 psi is acceptable.

3
Main Message Board / Fuel Pump 101 UPDATE and CRITICAL QUESTION
« on: May 06, 2018, 11:14:32 AM »
The OEM fuel pump on my 1987 finally gave out.  I read all the posts on the fuel pump 101 and then went to a NAPA owned store for a replacement.  All the past part numbers did not come up. They have two part numbers for a Facet High Performance Gold-Flo unit that looks like the one remove from the boat with hose nipples and no inline fuse.  I think I should connect the black wire from the pump to the existing black wire that splits into, if I recall a brown and black (perhaps red, not at the boat)

One model is a 610-1074 12v 4-4.5 psi, the second is a 610-1076 12v 6.5-8 psi.  My question is, which psi pump should I purchase.  The cost of the first is $149.00 plus tax and the second about $10.00 more.

If this question has been asked and answered, I apologize as I could not find it in 15 pages of posts, not in date order.

Thanks

4
Main Message Board / Re: Universal M25 XP Engine Mounts
« on: March 24, 2018, 11:15:26 AM »
What ever you buy, be sure the lug holes are the same position as what you are removing.  You can buy direct from Vetus, prices  on their web site.  My K50s need replacing, will look into K75 per Ron's suggestion.  With a heavy timber on top of the companionway, a come a long and a sling, you can raise the engine to replace the mounts with out removing the exhaust riser.

5
Main Message Board / Re: Information about "Dinghy-Tow"
« on: November 17, 2017, 09:05:28 AM »
Try  david@dinghy-tow.com

A dinghy tow came with my boat and I have used it for 17 years.  It is a very secure way to tow a dink in any kind of sea.  My boat is an 1987 without a sugar scoop stern.  Using the tow allows you to store the dink against the back stay or just out of the water to avoid water slapping against the dink.  You can raise the stern of the dink so you can place an outboard on the dink if the motor is light enough, mine is a two stroke at about 40 pounds.  It also keeps weight off the stern.  There is a method to raise the bow to drain standing water in the dink. 

6
Main Message Board / Re: ST4000+ Autopilot Won’t Work
« on: August 07, 2017, 12:38:57 PM »
Try  dan@mydurango.net>  for repair and Rick at  r.wallace@i3dgear.com.  Rick is making "old" new parts for Autohelms with 3D printing.  I purchased the foot petal for my 3000 Dan sent me a rebuilt wind vane/wind speed

7
Main Message Board / Re: Aft water tank leak REPAIRED
« on: August 07, 2017, 12:24:27 PM »
If it works, here is a picture of the aft water tank for a 1987 C -34 #504

8
Main Message Board / Aft water tank leak REPAIRED
« on: July 24, 2017, 09:30:42 AM »
I had a leak in the aft water tank at a corner where the tank is cut out.  I tried different things to seal it, epoxy stick, etc but nothing would stick to the polyethylene  tank.  I looked at all the past posts which were helpful in what to expect when removing that tank but no good method of repair.  After removing the engine control cables at the engine there was enough slack in the other cables to remove the tank through the aft cabin and enough clearance to pick up the tank and clear the fitting on the bottom which attaches to the water hose. The only sure way to repair the tank is with hot air plastic welding.  After a number of false starts, I called a plastic fabricator who had the equipment and could do the job. In Annapolis I used Annapolis Maritime Plastics.  The cost $120.00 which was their minimum. 

I called Catalina Direct to get the cost of a new tank and they quoted a 24 gallon tank for $389.93  plus $134.00 shipping and insisted that this was the correct aft tank even after I said it was not.   I requested a drawing and it was not correct. I sent them a picture of our 42 gallon tank and they said they would correct their records. When using Catalina Direct, trust but verify.

I replaced the water hose that lived in the bilge for 30 years and remembered to attach a messenger line to pull it under the cabin floor.  The tank was reinstalled and all is well.

9
Main Message Board / Re: Autohelm 4000 - parts source???
« on: November 24, 2016, 07:34:05 AM »
http://i3dgear.com/  part for Autohelm

10
Main Message Board / Re: Bow Anchor Roller Removal
« on: October 26, 2016, 08:51:29 AM »
Thanks for the replies.  I will try the port to see if I can access the bolts.  I have a longer bow roller and two cleats rather than the one center cleat.  I will take pictures and post them if I need more suggestions. 

11
Main Message Board / Bow Anchor Roller Removal
« on: October 23, 2016, 01:23:32 PM »
I would like to remove the bow anchor roller to straighten one side which is bent out of position (don't ask how).  It is held by 5 large slot heads either screws or bolts. Has anyone attempted this and knows how it is fastened to the deck.  If it is through bolted, I don't see any way to access it.  I think it will be difficult to get enough leverage to do this on the boat.

12
Main Message Board / Autohelm Parts Source
« on: October 06, 2016, 07:17:05 AM »
I have an Autohelm 3000, I named him Oscar, I love Oscar, he steers better than I do, then Oscar broke his leg, I mean the lever that tensions the belt broke.  I repaired it several times before looking for a replacement part.  I found this source, http://i3dgear.com/ who had made an improved handle and cam.  I ordered one and it works fine.  The site is run by Rick Wallace and he sells other Autohelm parts and has made improvements on OEM parts.  He also has a technical contact who had worked for Autohelm if that help is needed.   

While not state of the art, this unit still works fine and I see no reason at this time to spend  boat bucks for a replacement as long as parts are available. 

13
Main Message Board / Re: Head Counter Top Replacement
« on: December 04, 2015, 01:15:26 PM »
If you are a member of the C34IA and receive the Mainsheet, you will see an article I wrote on replacing he head countertop.  If  not a member, join.

14
Main Message Board / Re: Dutchman and new loose-footed main
« on: December 04, 2015, 12:58:47 PM »
My Dutchman pockets are not attached to the sail but slide in the boom track.  Perhaps if you contact Dutchman, they will have pockets that slide on the boom.

15
Main Message Board / Re: Head Counter Top Replacement
« on: May 28, 2015, 01:43:44 PM »
I have used Bed-it butly tape as well as a SS backing plate.  I thought it was coming in at the outer forward bolt..  Wood felt wet, drilled it out, filled it with thickened epoxy and drilled a new hole, used the butyl tape and it still leaked.  When I try again, I will see if there could be a opening in the deck not related to the bolts  especially if the butyl looks intact.

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