Join the C34 Association Today!
[C34 Home] [C34Tech Notes] [C34 Tech Wiki] [Join!]
Please login or register.
Advanced search  


Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Jim Brener

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 5
Main Message Board / Re: Head Counter Top Replacement
« on: December 04, 2015, 01:15:26 PM »
If you are a member of the C34IA and receive the Mainsheet, you will see an article I wrote on replacing he head countertop.  If  not a member, join.

Main Message Board / Re: Dutchman and new loose-footed main
« on: December 04, 2015, 12:58:47 PM »
My Dutchman pockets are not attached to the sail but slide in the boom track.  Perhaps if you contact Dutchman, they will have pockets that slide on the boom.

Main Message Board / Re: Head Counter Top Replacement
« on: May 28, 2015, 01:43:44 PM »
I have used Bed-it butly tape as well as a SS backing plate.  I thought it was coming in at the outer forward bolt..  Wood felt wet, drilled it out, filled it with thickened epoxy and drilled a new hole, used the butyl tape and it still leaked.  When I try again, I will see if there could be a opening in the deck not related to the bolts  especially if the butyl looks intact.

Main Message Board / Head Counter Top Replacement
« on: May 28, 2015, 06:10:18 AM »
I am in the process of replacing the counter top in the head.  When completed, I will post this project.  The  need to replace the counter top was water that came under the counter top and the solid shelf the counter top sits on and over time saturated the top.  I need to find the entry point of the water before installing the new top.  Facing the medicine cabinet, water is found in the outer right corner and maybe the outer left corner.  The jib track screws are dry as well as the scupper and stanchion bolts that can be seen looking inside the medicine cabinet and up toward the top.  The wet locker is dry.  The head window is tight and as far as I can determine, the port lights do not leak . I am at a loss as to where the water comes in. The head compartment mold sits away from the hull as far as I can tell and one would think water would run to the bilge.  I do have water entry at the holding tank vent stanchion which I am going to try for the third time to fix but that water drops to the sliding door shelf above the nav station I am at a loss and any suggestions will be appreciated. 

« on: February 28, 2015, 04:59:47 AM »
The March issue of Practical Sailor has a review of the C-34  Mark I boat.  This is an update from their last review in 1990.  You can read he review at

« on: February 27, 2015, 08:52:26 AM »
The March issue of Practical Sailor has a review of C-34 Mark 1 boats updated from their last review in 1990.  You can read the review on  My experience with my 1987 differs from the review in that when I had the bottom paint removed last year there were no signs of blisters, new or repaired.  I also do not experience the weather helm described and I feel the boat performs well in light wind which was not mentioned.  I was surprised to read about fin keels being available as on the shallow Chesapeake wing  keels are the norm.   :clap

Main Message Board / Re: Water Leak
« on: August 23, 2014, 04:23:06 PM »

What I am seeing is the thread and a nut as if the head is outside of the hull.  It is not vertical.  If the head attaches the rub rail, I don't see how it would show a leak when running water on the deck.  It is possible that I did not check the vent stanchion bolts carefully and one or more is leaking, again. I looked carefully at the scupper and do not see any cracks.  Of course, there could another explanation.

Hope to see you and Phyllis at the Fleet 12 Fall Meeting in September.

Main Message Board / Water Leak
« on: August 21, 2014, 06:05:04 AM »
I had water leaking in on the port side at the holding tank vent stanchion.  I rebedded the stanchion with butyl tape several years ago and I thought the leak was from there.  Upon inspection, I now think it is coming in by a bolt to the right and below the stanchion.  Can anyone tell me what the bolt is for and where the head is as I see several more to the left in the compartment. Could it be to attach the rub rail?  I know that where a leak shows does not mean that is where the water comes in.

Not sure I will like the answer but thanks as always thanks for your suggestions.

Main Message Board / Re: Chesepeake Bay Warning
« on: June 18, 2013, 02:54:56 PM »
I am at Herrington Harbor North, Tracy's Landing, MD about 20nm south of Annapolis, MD.
After the haul out, we ran the boat for a short time and all seemed normal.  Now to get the Tach working again, oh, and a leak in the aft water tank just below the port stringer.  Tried to patch it with butyl rubber and epoxy but have not stopped the leak.  May have to not fill the tank all the way unless someone has fount a way seal leaks on a PE tank.

Main Message Board / Chesepeake Bay Warning
« on: June 18, 2013, 07:02:51 AM »
Wind Spirit was launched mid April after spending the winter on the hard.  Due to other projects, time weather and other bad excuses I had not gone through my Spring engine check list until two weeks ago.  Upon start up everything was fine but when placing the engine under load at the dock the RPMs did not increase and it did not go into reverse and hardly in forward.   After checking the fuel lines, fuel pump etc, I found nothing wrong.  I did find, for some unknown reason, throttle was not attached to the engine and the engine cut off handle did not pull up as before.  Again for some unknown reason, the stopper adjustment was moved and did not allow the cut off lever to move all the way forward.

I thought that solved the problem as I could move forward and reverse against the dock and spring lines.  We took the boat our for a shake down and moved slowly above idle just fine but when increasing throttle nothing happened.

A discussion with a mechanic suggested that the prop was fouled which I thought hard to believe after two months in the water.  I had a short haul and the entire shaft and prop was completely covered with barnacles. These were removed during power wash and the yard  applied a coat of Pettit Zinc Prop Coating.  The yard said they have done a lot of short hauls for fouled props this Spring.

The suggestion is even if you can't leave the dock to run your engine often to spin off the barnacles or better yet, go sailing, which we will be doing.  I bring this thought to you as I have not before had this amount of buildup to the extent that it affected performance of the engine.  By the way, here was only a little soft growth on the hull.   Speculation, global warming.

Main Message Board / Re: Leaking Fixed Port
« on: June 07, 2013, 08:43:42 AM »
Thanks for all the replies.  I did not use spacers so that must be my problem.  Would 1/8" or 1/4" thick closed foam work best?

Main Message Board / Leaking Fixed Port
« on: June 06, 2013, 04:12:30 PM »
The starboard fixed port is leaking along the top.  I have removed it twice and rebedded it only to see the drips return on the inside.  I am a convert to butyl rubber tape and will be rebedding most everything with it.  Has anyone tried using this on the fixed ports?  After removal and cleanup, I can see at least two  1/2" strips of tape or more  and perhaps  numerous screws to hold the port in place. This means drilling holes in the plastic which has its own risk.

If all else fails, I will consider removal for the third time, not fun.  Any thoughts will be appreciated.

Main Message Board / AC WIRING ISSUES
« on: July 08, 2012, 08:01:51 AM »

Being married to a former Inland Marine Insurance Writer, one can expect her to have risk aversion issues. I on the other hand tend to have work aversion issues with the "if it is not broken, don't fix it"  Needless to say, hers is the better policy

I have not seen much posted about possible AC wiring issues on the older boats. The mate thinks that all the AC wiring should be replaced with new AC breakers, shore connection  and outlets. Concerns about chafe, loose connections, corrosion, etc, come to mind.

I will be interested in any thoughts on this topic.

Main Message Board / Re: Working on the chain gang....
« on: August 30, 2011, 02:11:36 PM »
If you are in reasonable shape and want to save your back here is the best way to haul the rode.

Squat down, back straight and grab the line or chain, stand up using your legs then move your hands down the rode, squat and do it again.  I sometimes get winded but have never strained my back.

I added the attachment again, hope it works.

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 5