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Messages - Mark Sutherland

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 9
1
Main Message Board / Re: Sails
« on: October 06, 2018, 10:23:32 PM »
I had RT's on my '86 and liked them a lot.

2
Main Message Board / Re: Thermostat source
« on: March 15, 2018, 08:28:01 PM »
I've always bought my 160 thermostats at Torreson marine for years.

3
Stu, I sold my '86 last June for 44k.  Probably not the number you were hoping for.

4
Main Message Board / Re: Problem Unfurling In-mast Furling Mail
« on: February 09, 2018, 10:57:42 PM »
Yesssss, glad to hear it worked! A day of sailing is so much nicer when the main goes in and out like butter.  70 degrees and 11 knots forecast here in So. Cal tomorrow, I think I'll be on the water for sure.

5
Main Message Board / Re: Changing the furling mainsail downhaul line
« on: February 09, 2018, 10:47:18 PM »
Rortega, my neighbor who owns a C350 just had this problem a few weeks ago, but I didn't ask him how he resolved it. If you post to the 350 site I'm sure he'll be happy to share his solution with you. Good luck.

6
Main Message Board / Re: New England Sta-Set Lines Slipping In Winch Crowns
« on: November 14, 2017, 11:54:04 AM »
Hi Dave. The new lines are the exact same size as the previous lines.

7
Main Message Board / Re: New England Sta-Set Lines Slipping In Winch Crowns
« on: November 14, 2017, 10:08:05 AM »
Anyone have any thoughts on how to get rid of the "slickness" on these new lines?  Thanks.

8
Main Message Board / New England Sta-Set Lines Slipping In Winch Crowns
« on: November 12, 2017, 12:54:06 PM »
I recently replaced 3 lines (Outhaul, Furling and Topping Lift) with New England Sta-Set, and they are all slipping in my winch crowns.  They seem to have a very slick feel to them.  Is there a way to "rough up" these lines without damaging them? 

9
Main Message Board / Re: Problem Unfurling In-mast Furling Mail
« on: November 09, 2017, 11:04:53 PM »
Jim, I agree that the raised boom is unattractive.  I only raise it with the topping lift during furling/unfurling.  Then I release the topping lift and trim the sail for optimal shape.

10
Main Message Board / Re: Problem Unfurling In-mast Furling Mail
« on: November 09, 2017, 10:58:01 PM »
Randy, I moved my outlhaul car aftward on the boom manually while at the dock, tied one end of a rope to the car, and the other end to the aft end of the boom, thus preventing the car from sliding forward, which it will naturally do when tension is applied to the outhaul. I just leave the car there all the time.  I may look for a "track stopper " which would look a little cleaner.  I thought I was nuts at first, but my sail maker confirmed my theory, and I also noticed some Island Packets with their car's neutral setting quite bit more aft than what you'd normally see.  I just know it's worked great for me.

11
Main Message Board / Re: Problem Unfurling In-mast Furling Mail
« on: November 09, 2017, 12:05:03 AM »
I'll add a general comment related to some key lessons I learned about in mast furling main on my new-to-me 350 (Charleston furler). One key is the tension on the foot vs the leach when furling, or unfurling the main.  A related key is the the position of the boom end, vertically.  The lower the boom end, the more likely the predominant tension will be on the leach vs the foot during furling/unfurling. The more tension on the leach while unfurling, the more the leach pulls against the midsection of the foil, which is very flexible, especially in the middle.  When a taught leach pulls against the foil, the more likely the foil will flex aftward, jamming the foil and sail into the slot/groove in the mast usually somewhere in the middle third of the mast.  Conversely, by raising the boom end slightly above horizontal, the tension transfers more towards the foot of the sail ( with less tension on the leach), which pulls more against the bottom of the foil, which flexes very little since it is only inches above a rigid bearing holder.  With less aftward flexing of the mid-foil, the less likelihood of sail jamming mid-mast.  Of course the main must first be furled correctly; with a taught foot and slightly slack leach during the furling process(boom position again the key).  One other key is to change the neutral position of the outhaul car to a position that is further aft on the boom.  The factory neutral position of my car is only a few feet aft of the mast.  The resulting geometry places most of the tension on the leach instead of the foot.  I moved the outhaul car about 2/3 of the way aft towards the boom end and teathered it in place there.  This creates a more favorable geometry for maintaining good tension on the foot of the main during furling and unfurling.  Finally, watch the main's leach vs foot tension during the entire furling/unfurling process, maintaining more foot vs leach tension.  I also like to furl/unfurl on a starboard tack(counter-clockwise furling) using the wind to my advantage.  I haven't had a jam since.

12
Hi Everyone.  I was on the phone with Corey at Depco Pumps yesterday.  I have a 2006 Universal M35B engine and was looking to replace my Sherwood pump with the Oberdorfer pump.  Up until now, the latest recommended Oberdorfer replacement pump that Iíve seen was the N202M-908.  Depco said this was the correct pump, but that it did not include the necessary modified plumbing fittings (apparently the original Sherwood fittings need to be modified to work with the Oberdorfer replacement pump on the M35B engine).  He said that part number N202M-837 is the same as the N202M-908, but it includes all of the needed modified fittings, gasket, etc.  The cost for the kit was $468.  I also bought the Impeller/gasket/O-ring kit OB 6593K ($47), Lip seals(2) OB 5463 ($21.85 ea), and Pump-block Gasket WB 302678 ($1,40).  Corey said that if/when the pump begins to ďweepĒ, itís usually the outer most (forward) lip seal (there are 2) so itís good to have a spare.

13
Main Message Board / Re: Rebedding needed?
« on: October 28, 2017, 08:26:36 PM »
To add to Phil's advice on the fender washers, be sure to not overtighten the chain plate bolts.  The shrouds and the chain plate anchors are doing most of the mechanical work.  The chain plate bolts more or less "position" the chain plate only so no need to overtighten and unnecessarily crush the decking and core.

14
Main Message Board / Re: Rebedding needed?
« on: October 26, 2017, 12:52:11 AM »
Since the boat is new to you, I'd want to know the condition of the deck core at the chain plate penetrations.  Remove the cover and chain plates and inspect the core.  If wet or rotted, you'll need to address this.  There is at least one good article on inspecting, remediating, and potting/sleeving/sealing the chain plate penetrations with epoxy, which a good investment in your deck core life and your piece of mind.

15
Main Message Board / Re: Rules Of The Road Question
« on: October 03, 2017, 07:27:56 AM »
Maybe my fellow sailors you should be asking the guestion: Would I rather be right or would I rather be sailing??
Paul

I'm with you Paulus, I wasn't looking to be right (though I believe I was the stand on vessel), I was looking for some courtesy.  I am always happy to give way to a working vessel.  The tug-barge in this case was taking a course across my bow, and while I suspect he knew we weren't going to collide, I didn't have the several minutes to make that calculation, as he did, and in the few seconds I had, it felt way too close for comfort, so I immediately gybed away (to starboard), with no preparation, which is my least favorite maneuver.  To say the least, I was really peeved. :x

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