Messages

Roc,

With respect to using the puck lights in the engine compartment I may have a suggestion. Once you decide where you want the light(s) in the engine compartment, I would stick a piece of (hook and loop type) Velcro in those places. Then stick a piece of the reverse kind behind the puck light(s). And you are done.

If you keep the light(s) in a handy place where you can find them easily, all you would need to do is stick them there when you need them and take them out after you are done.

That should help with the concern of having to keep them all the time in the heated engine compartment. Another advantage would be that you can unstick them from one place or another and make do with one or two lights instead of a couple. The Velcro should handle the heated environment alright.

Just a thought.

Hi Mel,

What is your application? Exhaust hose or raw water hose? Trident is one of the larger manufacturers. I have also seen 'Shields' as the brand on the hoses. I would recommend using a marine grade hose. It may be slightly expensive but will provide you with good service. Also if you apply a good coat of Lanocote of TuffGel on the inside before sliding the hose on and clamping it, it will be easier to get it off.

Locally, here in the Bay area I get my hoses from The Outboard Motor Shop or Svendsens. You will need to find a marine supply store in your area or check fisheriesupply per Craig's suggestion. Check out West Marine if you have them close by. They have a good selection. I searched for Exhaust hose and found a bunch. Here is a link to one of the them:
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/3671/377%20710/0/exhaust%20hose/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N=377%20710&Ne=0&Ntt=exhaust%20hose&Ntk=Primary%20Search&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Nao=0&Ns=0&keyword=exhaust%20hose&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=11&subdeptNum=145&classNum=146

Hope that helps.

Sorry Mark. Looks like you were talking about the Electrical panel and not the Engine Control Panel. Ken's information to you is right on.

I guess I was too excited on completing my project...

Hi Mark,

I recently re-powered my Pearson 10M by replacing the A4 with the M25. Among other things I moved my Engine Control panel (I think that is what you mean by ignition panel) to the pedestal. Check out the attached before and after photos of my pedestal. I used the EnginePod EP162 and reused my gauges from the old engine panel. The EnginePod is used on some newer Catalinas. Ocean Equipment manufacture the EnginePod. Seward, mentioned by Ken in his post above, were contracted by Catalina to take the EnginePod and stuff it with gauges and do the custom job for the Catalinas. I did replace the ammeter with a voltmeter per the suggestions of many on this board. It is a bit of work but in the end you have a new panel and wiring that if done well can last you a long time.

Just FYI Ocean Equipment currently have the EP162 for clearance at $99 (just the enclosure, you use your own gauges). Check out - http://www.oceanequipment.com/Exclusive-Distributor/NavPod/default.aspx

If you are interested and if it helps others I can post some more info and pictures. I also fabricated a teak drink holder and fitted it below the compass on the pedestal.

Hope that helps and let me know if you would like me to post more information. Cheers.

Thanks for sharing, Brian. Real good woodwork. Approximately how much did you pay? Just curious...

Scratch that question. I checked out the Universal M25 as well as the D850 parts lists and got an idea of how the kill cable needs to be fixed.

I made an Aluminum bracket and fitted the kill-cable today. It works fine.

Does anyone have a photo of how the kill-cable is connected/fastened to the bracket? It should be connected at two places at least, I figure. The forward end is with a screw type fitting on the metal wire (mentioned by Ron in one of the posts above). I am interested to find out how the cable/sheath is fastened to the bracket. We can't over tighten that end as that could lead to a hard pull/push action. Appreciate your help.

Mike,

I had the same issue on my Pearson 10M recently. The shaft coupling was all rusted and the yard had initially indicated that they 'may' have to cut the shaft if they are not able to take the coupling off. I cut the coupling and saved the shaft. It took 3 hrs and 4 'saw-all' blades but I got the coupling off without a scratch on the shaft.

Attaching some pictures for reference. The yard would have done the same (cutting of the coupling) in half the time it took me.

Lessons learned:

1. Don't waste time with cheapo Chinese blades. They DON'T work!
2. Make one cut right on the Key so the two parts can fall off. I had to do slide the second part out.
3. Try to make the cuts as straight down as possible. Perhaps a good way is to start the cut manually with a good hacksaw and then start with the Reciprocating saw. I had started that way but did not do the manual cuts deep enough to guide the Dewalt reciprocating saw.

Mike,

I saw the item 3 in your plan about changing the stuffing box assembly with the hose. I also recently needed to change my stuffing hose and stuffing box assembly. I decided to go for a PYI dripless instead. It was not much more expensive and now I don't have to worry about the dripping water, ever. If you are taking the shaft out it will be pretty easy to put the dripless on.

Just a suggestion. Cheers.

Hi Ron,

Thanks for the quick reply. I understand on the size of the fuse. I had not read all of your post, now I did. I have the old Motorola Alt and will put a 50+ Amp fuse accordingly. Based on that a size 10 AWG wire should suffice for me. You probably used a 6AWG for the 125A

Understood on the wiring of the fuel pump. Hence the fuel pump is always on even while sailing (motor off). That is the way I have my wiring diagram now, however, doesn't make sense to wire it such that the pump is On only when the switch on the engine panel is on?

Thanks.

Steve,

I am in process of completing my wiring of the new Engine Panel tomorrow. So this is just in time, thanks!

Quick clarification questions: The fuse you are talking about is in line of the wire connecting the output of the alternator to the house battery, correct? Could you confirm, did you use 200A or 300A? Also what size wire did you use for this connection? This is a good size fuse, what kind of a inline fuse holder did you use?

And question which is slightly off-topic: How is the Fuel pump connected? Directly from the big stud of the starter solenoid (which means the fuel pump will be on when the Battery Switch is on) or is it connected through the engine panel (which means the fuel pump is on only when the key is turned on the engine panel)?

Thanks.

Rick,

On my Pearson 10M I have a deck plate on the cabin sole behind the helm that can be opened with a key. Opening that provided access to a square peg that was in the center of the large pulley that I think is mounted right on the rudder shaft. The square peg is 1" square.

I made a emergency tiller last year using a wooden tiller I picked up from a local consignment store and steel parts I purchased from Ace hardware. I got a local shop weld the pieces I cut. I then put 2 coats of Rustoleum primer and 5-6 coats of white Rustoleum paint.

I haven't had a chance to use it but feel secure knowing that I have it on board. I will try to see if I took any pictures of the making of the Emergency Tiller and post it.

Regards.

Thanks Ron.

Note that the nipple is 4" long. Although I tried, I could not use a shorter one as I had to clear the exhaust manifold in order to mount the pressure switch.

Do you see any disadvantage of putting the flexible tube back and attaching the "T" after that? It would be the same as it was before except that there will now be a T and a pressure switch in addition to the pressure sender at the end of the T. I can 'tie-wrap this duo around the coolant hose going to the HE.

Stu,

Yes, however, in that case I will have to make the whole new riser. Whereas here I could use this riser by making minor repairs/modifications. I like the good quality of the metal here. It looks like new after 30 years of operation! Then again the cost of the new riser may not be more than $100. So it does make sense to make the new riser from SS fittings if that one will last as long... I still have 50+ years to live...

BTW, where can I get the 'wire re-enforced' hose that goes from the riser to the muffler? I have read about the hump hose from Catalina. Even if I was to use the hump hose on the muffler side, I will still need a short piece, maybe 6" or so of the wire re-enforced hose. I could use a high end Napa Gold radiator hose, but I don't think that is wire re-enforced.

Regards.

I was able to remove the existing exhaust riser and bring it home to dismantle and clean. Attached are a few pictures of the same before and after cleaning. The riser and gooseneck with nipple looks real good. Maybe some welding required on the downward leg.

I am thinking I could use this one rather than making a completely new one with Schedule 40 SS pipe fittings as mentioned above. It either is the original Pearson make or a custom one made by PO from Bronze. I could either get a few spots welded on the downward leg or just have someone de-weld and replace the downward leg.

What do you guys think?

Regards.