Topics

Team,

Hoping to get some help from people who may have faced this situation before.

Background: Have a Tach plus hour meter that stopped showing RPM. Checked AC voltage output at Alt and the wire leading up to the Tach and found voltage coming/changing okay. Hence procured a new Tach=hour meter from VeeThree instruments (https://www.veethree.com/). The new Tach has quite different programming than my old one that just had a rotary switch which I had set the # of cylinders on the engine (3 for my M25). Here is a link to the programming instructions to the new Tach - https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/read/28790533/instructions-veethree-instruments

Question: The formula for calculating the FSF to program the new Tach is as follows:

FSF = (# of poles on Alt x Pulley Ratio x Full Scale RPM) / 60

Given that I have the stock 55 Amp Alt on my M25, here are the questions I have:

- What are the number of Poles on the Alt?
- What is the pulley ratio?

I know that the full scale RPM is 4000. So if I have the above two parameters I can calculate FSF and program the DIP switches behind the new Tach. I am attaching the pics of my new Tach so you'll can get a good idea...

Can anyone help?

Thanks!

Mahendra

P.S. Side clarifying question: What is the voltage I should be seeing at idling out of the AC Tap on a Motorola 55 Amp standard issue Atleernator? Is that DC or AC voltage? I an just checking as it is supposed to be coming out straight from the Stator winding and I think from before the rectifier (hence AC voltage...?).

Looking for a handset/microphone for Raymarine 215/230. Want to try and create a cockpit extension for my Ray215. I believe the Ray230 mics also work with Ray215. DM me if you have one and want to get rid of it. Cheers.

Anyone know of a good resource for chrome plating in the SF Bay area? I am looking for a economical but reasonable quality work. Perhaps best to look for non-marine resource, eh? Thanks.

Wanted to check if anyone has used the Minn Kota electric motors on their inflatables/dinghies.

I have a 11 ft Achilles with soft bottom, air keel and wood floor. Instead of a gas motor (<20 Hp specified) I am looking into a 45 Lb thrust Minn Kota Riptide series transom mount motor with 36" shaft. Minn Kota factory outlet has it for $301 with free shipping. I think 45 Lb thrust will be enough to propel us at reasonable speed. We plan to use the inflatable for the occasional ride from the mooring to the shore when we go to Angel Island or to the delta...In my mind the advantages of the electric motor are as follows:

• Lower cost compared to gas motor
• No gas to be carried
• Easier to handle as it is light weight even considering the battery that we have to move to the dinghy
• Quiet
• Environmentally friendly
• Low maintenance - so far as used and cared for properly

If anyone has used the same please let me know what you have used with the type of dinghy used on and your experience.

Thanks.

Hi All,

When I visited the boat after a couple of months today (Note my boat is a Pearson 10M) and tried to turn on the bilge pump to pump the water out here is what I found:

-- The bilge pump was running but was barely audible (Less sound than usual)
-- No water was coming out even after running the pump for a few minutes
-- Tried with the 2nd battery, same result
-- Thinking that there was a problem with the switch panel (rule model 41) opened it up and checked everything to be ok.
-- Checked battery voltage and found to be in normal limits.

Then thinking that this troubleshooting was going to take time I turned on the stereo to entertain myself in the interim. Here is what I found then:

-- Again turned on the bilge pump and the stereo volume went down to zero.
-- Switching off the bilge pump brings back the stereo volume
-- Same thing happens with the fresh water pump. Turning on the fresh water pump takes the stereo volume to zero, turning it off restores the stereo output!

I was perplexed. The battery cannot be that much out of juice that it cannot provide required current to these two devices!

Then I said let me check if the battery can turn the engine on. Lo and behold the engine started with the first crank! So I surmised that the batteries are fine. At least enough to not give me the problem I was having.

So where was the problem? After thinking about it for a bit, I think it is a grounding issue. Somehow, as soon as I am turning on an appliance that drains some significant current the ground is breaking. What do you guys think?

I did take pains to do the proper grounding when I re-powered with the Universal diesel engine last year. With advice from Stu I put in a grounding bus and terminated the engine ground and the negatives of both batteries to the bus. Also connected the other ground wires to it. I did not have any problems until now. It was just this time that I had this issue.

Anyone faced a problem like this before? Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot and find where the root cause is coming from?

I recently made a drink holder using teak to fit my Edson pedestal. I thought I would share with the good people of this forum.

Background:

• I was already opening up the pedestal to add the clutch control and hence removing the compass and the engine control assy
• I was also going to be putting in a new cable to the clutch control since the old one for the A4 was too thick and unnecessary

Given that I was doing the above and would have to make the adjustments for the clutch and throttle levers, I thought it was a good time to make the drink holder.

Location:

I did not have any fixed drink holders in the cockpit, this drink holder that would fit just below the engine control assy would be a good addition. It would be out of the way from the traffic in the cockpit and reasonably close for the crew not to mention the helmsperson.

Fabrication:

I used a 3/4 teak wood. Here are the high level steps I followed, more or less in the right sequence:

1. Having decided that I would have 4 holes, 2 on each side and based on the size of my steering wheel, I decided to keep the total width of the holder to about 24"
2. I traced the bottom of the engine control assy in the center so as to know where to drill and mill.
3. I used the diameter of a beer bottle and a soft drink can as a sample and decided the size of the holes. Smaller one on the outside.
4. I used a scrolling jigsaw to cut the center portion. This was difficult and needed a lot of creativity
5. I used holesaws to cut the holes for the drinks
6. Since I did not want to keep the whole 3/4" of width of the teak (worried that it would mess with the distance available for the engine controls), I decided to mill the center portion down to 1/2". This was very difficult to do with the tools in my garage. I don't have a router so I put the router bit I had on a benchtop drillpress and used that to mill the center portion.
7. I oversized the holes for the 4 engine control mounting bolts so that they could allow for slight discrepancy in the measurements.
8. I used another curved router bit on my drill press and curved the edges of the drink holder. Caution: This is tricky. I will suggest caution and rather that people use a proper router, or just do it by hand. We don't need too much of a curve here, just enough to take the edge off, in my opinion
9. For the bails I used a 1/8" solid brass rod and bent it to the required shape using a simple benchtop vise. The bails I fixed to the underside using a simple SS screw and a SS flat washer. Before fitting the bails I used a Dremel type rotary tool to create small groove so the end of the bail where the screw was attached would stay put and not slide from side to side. the bails were finally attached after varnish was done and complete.
10. After the drink holder was structurally complete, I sanded it nicely and applied 5 coats of Ephiphanes varnish. People can use any varnish they are used to. I have used Epiphanes on my combing and like the finish it provides on the teak.
11. Once the varnish was complete and dry, I attached the bails on the underside.
12. The drink holder was fitted first on the pedestal, then went the engine control assy ( the cylindrical white thingy that holds the control levers), then went the 1/4-20 screws. Since I had replaced my old engine control assy with a new one (slightly bigger height), and the added 1/2" of width for the drink holder, I had to use longer screws. In my case I went for 4" screws. These I got from Svendsens. You can easily get them from a HW store. You will need to use SS screws of course.
13. Then followed the connections of the engine control cable, cable holder, and their adjustments. The adjustment instructions are provided by Edson and are quite detailed. That is a topic of another note, so I will not details those here in the drink holder fabrication section.
14. Lastly I fitted the compass and the compass cover. Since I had the compass out (and also because I dropped the light bulb in the pedestal!) I opted to go for the newer Led lights. I got those from Richtie, through Svendsens.

Sorry I was able to attach only one photo given the 150KB limit.

I really love how the drink holder turned out. Let me have your comments and also questions if any. Cheers.

Currently I don't have any autopilot on my Pearson 10M and am considering buying a 'new' Autohelm 4000+ from someone. I have a couple of questions that I am hoping someone on the forum can answer.

1. What is the difference between 4000 and 4000+ models? Where can I find the manuals for 4000+?
2. The drive unit installs on the steering wheel. Does anything install on the pedestal, where? A picture of my updated pedestal is attached. Will I have issues because I don't have space on the pedestal free for anything that may need installation there. A photo of your install might help me understand and look for alternatives
3. I can get hold of a core package of ST7000. However I have to find a drive unit for that. Cannot afford to spend $1500 for new one from Raymarine. Any suggestions on where I could find a ST 7000 drive unit for wheel steering? I believe the ST7000 is a under deck unit and the linear drive unit installs below decks and directly to the steering quadrant. Would the ST7000 be a better option given the fact that I may have real estate issues installing the ST 4000+?
4. I may also be able to get hold of a ST 5000. But I am not sure how much is the 'reasonable' and 'deal' price for the 4000+, 5000, or the 7000 core package.

Appreciate any insight from any of you. Thanks!

Background:

I have just transferred my engine (M25) panel gauges from the standard panel to the EnginePod made by Ocean Equipment that mounts on the Pedestal. I also changed the ammeter to a voltmeter based on the suggestion from this forum. I rewired the gauges and tested the new Panel with the engine (still in my garage). Everything worked fine except for the fact that the red lamp for Low Oil Pressure was continuously ON even when the engine was running with proper oil pressure. Also the alarm for low oil pressure kept going even while the engine was running. Note that in the my old panel both the alarm lights were not wired hence I don't know how to connect them, hence it seems I had connected them incorrectly. The engine Oil pressure gauge would also read Max at this time.

Investigation:

I disconnected both the low pressure red light and the low pressure alarm and the Oil pressure meter then reads OK. I also read some of the other messages on this forum about the oil pressure switch (which I think is separate from the Oil pressure sender). On checking the engine I find that I have a oil pressure sender connected to the crankcase that feeds the Oil pressure meter. However I don't have a Oil pressure switch. At least I can't see it.

Questions:

1. The oil pressure switch (on/off) is separate from the Oil pressure sender, correct?
2. Does anyone have the Oil pressure meter as well as the Low oil pressure light/alarm working? If yes, can you confirm that you have both the pressure switch as well as the sender?
3. If the answer the above questions is yes then where are are both the sender as well as the switch mounted? At two different places or in one place using a mechanical 'Y' kind of a connection? I can easily get the Oil pressure sender, Kubota part number 15841-39010, from tractor smart. I just need to understand how to connect the pressure switch in addition to the pressure sender.

Other than that I am almost ready to replace my A4 with the M25...:-)

Thanks.

I have a set of Signet Windspeed and Windpoint instruments and indicator meters on my boat. One of my windspeed cups was broken and I replaced that. I also had to bring down and clean up the wind direction vane and clean/lubricate it. My wind speed indicator and wind direction indicating vane is now working fine.

However, I am having problems with the Windpoint potentiometer as a result the 'close Hauled' indicating meter keeps jumping. I have opened the potentiometer and I have confirmed that it needs to be replaced. This is the potentiometer that is just below the windvane (masthead fly).

The parts for this are not easily available and if they are, are rather pricey. It would be great if someone has a broken or no-longer-inuse masthead unit lying around. I could check that and put it to use. I am willing to pay a reasonable price.

Thanks in advance. Please post a message or PM me.