Messages

Thanks Jim.
I checked the two handsets the eBayer had posted, got the model no and then checked with Raymarine. The specific model won't work with my Ray215. I need the A46021 to work with my VHF.

Thanks for pinging me though...:-)

Hi Jim,

Yes, it seems like it. They have not given the Raymarine part number, but from description it looks like it. I will ask for a clarification...

Did you buy one from them? How did yours work out?

Thanks!

Wow. no one has one?...

BTW, how much are the Oberdoffer and Sherwood pumps (New and used in V good condition)these days? I have an almost new one that I should sell...so the information will help.

All,

Thanks everyone for your comments/suggestions. Wanted to provide an update:

• Measured my o/p at AC TAP again and found to be very low AC voltage
• Removed the alternator and took it to Gen Star along with my original Tach=Hour meter
• Gen Star found that they need to repair alternator
• They ended up replacing the stator winding
• Checked the alternator on their jig and also connected Tach
• Everything tested okay. AC TAP o/p was 7.4 VAC
• Brought them back and fitted them on boat and checked with engine. All OK!

So ultimately my Alternator winding was an issue and my Tach was okay.
Now I have a 'brand new' alternator and SeaFever is a as happy as I am ...

Thanks again to all!

Mahendra : Look in the Mainsheet tech notes. You'll find an article I wrote on the programing/reprograming of the Teleflex Tach dip switches.
It was so long ago, I seem to recall? that I might have even given the OEM alternator dip switch settings.

Look in those old Mainsheet tech note - there are TONS of information!!!   

A thought

Hi Ron.

How are you? It's been a long time...:-)

Could you point me to the month/year? That would help very much.

Mahendra

Hi KW,

Is the output of the Alt at AC Tap 12VAC at idling or max RPM or both? What changes as RPM goes up? The voltage or frequency? Therefore the Tach's variable input is varying AC voltage or varying Frequency?

Thanks!

Thanks Stu. Agreed. I can also check the actual RPM on the engine with my contactless RPM meter I bought for my EV project.

Actually I am now second guessing myself and wanting to check if the output from my Alt is OK. Talked to Vinnie at Gen Star (John was out) and he was suggesting that even the voltage from the 'AC Tap' is a DC voltage. Is that correct? Anyone measure that on a Motorola Alt? If that is the case, I may have to take the Alt out and take it to them for repairs and my Tach maybe okay!...:-)

Team,

Hoping to get some help from people who may have faced this situation before.

Background: Have a Tach plus hour meter that stopped showing RPM. Checked AC voltage output at Alt and the wire leading up to the Tach and found voltage coming/changing okay. Hence procured a new Tach=hour meter from VeeThree instruments (https://www.veethree.com/). The new Tach has quite different programming than my old one that just had a rotary switch which I had set the # of cylinders on the engine (3 for my M25). Here is a link to the programming instructions to the new Tach - https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/read/28790533/instructions-veethree-instruments

Question: The formula for calculating the FSF to program the new Tach is as follows:

FSF = (# of poles on Alt x Pulley Ratio x Full Scale RPM) / 60

Given that I have the stock 55 Amp Alt on my M25, here are the questions I have:

- What are the number of Poles on the Alt?
- What is the pulley ratio?

I know that the full scale RPM is 4000. So if I have the above two parameters I can calculate FSF and program the DIP switches behind the new Tach. I am attaching the pics of my new Tach so you'll can get a good idea...

Can anyone help?

Thanks!

Mahendra

P.S. Side clarifying question: What is the voltage I should be seeing at idling out of the AC Tap on a Motorola 55 Amp standard issue Atleernator? Is that DC or AC voltage? I an just checking as it is supposed to be coming out straight from the Stator winding and I think from before the rectifier (hence AC voltage...?).

Looking for a handset/microphone for Raymarine 215/230. Want to try and create a cockpit extension for my Ray215. I believe the Ray230 mics also work with Ray215. DM me if you have one and want to get rid of it. Cheers.

Anyone know of a good resource for chrome plating in the SF Bay area? I am looking for a economical but reasonable quality work. Perhaps best to look for non-marine resource, eh? Thanks.

Thanks for the insights Ron and Terry. The more I read about it the case for the electric motor gets weaker...

Thanks for your response guys. Agreed, like with many things related to boats, a lot depends on the use and location of use. At Angel's Island we could probably row, eh?

Don't really have the comparison of lbs of thrust of electric motor vs. hp of the gas motor. The specification of my Achilles SD-11 indicates up to 20 hp engine (but I think that would be overkill). Talking to Minn Kota they specify 2 Lbs of thrust for every 100 Lbs of load! The inflatable is pretty light and does not go much deep at all. So considering ~ 60 lbs for the inflatable, ~600 lbs for the (3) people, then give and take some --- for an average of 1000 lbs one would need 20 lbs of thrust per the above suggestion from Minn Kota. With 45 lbs we would be coasting, wouldn't we? We could also get a 55 lbs transom mount model for not much more. Again without real experience these are just numbers. Another real good point Stu raised is how long can one go for a full battery charge? Don't know. I am sure it depends on the speed (hence current drawn) we go at.

On a separate note, they also sell bow mounted motors. Wonder what people use those for...bow thrusters (with the remote control)? I think these electric motors are great for trolling i.e. for people fishing. The quiet motor does not disturb the fish, eh? Unfortunately that does not help me as I don't catch or consume fish...

Wanted to check if anyone has used the Minn Kota electric motors on their inflatables/dinghies.

I have a 11 ft Achilles with soft bottom, air keel and wood floor. Instead of a gas motor (<20 Hp specified) I am looking into a 45 Lb thrust Minn Kota Riptide series transom mount motor with 36" shaft. Minn Kota factory outlet has it for $301 with free shipping. I think 45 Lb thrust will be enough to propel us at reasonable speed. We plan to use the inflatable for the occasional ride from the mooring to the shore when we go to Angel Island or to the delta...In my mind the advantages of the electric motor are as follows:

• Lower cost compared to gas motor
• No gas to be carried
• Easier to handle as it is light weight even considering the battery that we have to move to the dinghy
• Quiet
• Environmentally friendly
• Low maintenance - so far as used and cared for properly

If anyone has used the same please let me know what you have used with the type of dinghy used on and your experience.

Thanks.

Thanks T,

I agree the only way to solve this issue is going to be tedious tracing back from the bilge pump towards the batteries. I is just interesting that an issue crops up after a year of re-power...I am also wondering of the high level of water submerged some wiring which was short-circuiting the current. I used the manual pump to pump out the water and the bilge will be reasonably dry for the next few days. I plan to go back to the boat in 3-4 days for checking troubleshooting. Will report back what I find. Cheers for now.