Messages

You may want to check these. I have not used them but the guys in my British car club like them.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Wh5gM8GM70

Hate to sound negative, but the last place I would take suggestions from on automotive electrics is from an
organization involving British cars.

I do not believe the manufacturer is still in business. I got replacements from Defender, see my thread from above.

Noah's suggestion to use the wiring kit from CD.  That gets you the color code for the main harness.  I wouldn't frett about the colors for the start button wires etc. 

I want to rebuild my whole panel with new gauges.  Mine are pretty well sun busted.  Does anyone have a source for the gauges sold in the kit sold by CD?  They are lit in a way that makes them SO MUCH easier to see at night.  I have snooped around but have yet to find the ones used by the factory.

I only buy proprietary Catalina items from CD. The prices on everything else are a ripoff. I replaced with Sierra gauges, You can get them anywhere and can buy individually also.  https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rra-69709p?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiAhqCdBhB0EiwAH8M_Gou5p4d4BDOS587LQYgGUYXN0kTLkRSTaLVkO3m2WOJv0BjzPde-_hoC9CoQAvD_BwE

Now that I'm finally getting some time on the boat I discovered the charger is a Dual bank 20amp fully distributed Pro Sport 20. I'm not finding anything between the charger and battery that would signal back the charge status...but I don't know exactly what to look for. I'll do research on this particular charger tomorrow. I need to find out if the charger is run through the battery selector switch but I'm betting not because it is on the port side of the cabin near the AC/DC control panel, and everything else (batteries and charger, inverter) is starboard. I can test that tomorrow too. I was planning on leaving shore power attached through the winter for the dehumidifier and heater. I could disconnect the battery charger if discharging isn't a likely issue over the eight months I'll be gone.

Most marinas will not allow unattended electrical heaters left on. 

I find it bizarre Promariner would say the PS20 was not suitable for your intended use. Thousands of them are installed on boats with bigger battery banks and loads with no issues.   

yes agree but i have power and when i put a screwdrivwer across the starter terminals I do have juice- spark.  just no action

Yes.
So now I have power at the cockpit panel and 12.3V everywhere down to the starter, but starter wont do anything.

I dont get anything out of the starter.  Not a click, not a buzz, nothing

Also while we are here, does anyone have a part number for a simple push button start switch ( momentary on )
Mine is working but ist actually a pull switch and i want to get rid of it 

[What should be my next step?]

Went to the start the engine  and no power at the cockpit panel.
Traced to a failed ring terminal at the pos starter solenoid
Fixed that and noticed the terminal on the starter or the ignition switch looked horrible. Cleaned and replaced terminal. 
So now I have power at the cockpit panel and 12.3V everywhere down to the starter, but starter wont do anything.
I even jumped the starter trerminals with a screwdriver - still nothing.
Soooo, after restoring power everywhere I think I have traced the new issue to a bad starter.
It had been working perfectly.  Never an issue.  I have done all the required upgrades (ammeter wiring, bigger/newer wires and cables, etc)   
Funny it would simply quit without  a hint?
   
What should be my next step?  Pull the starter and have it checked?   It is an older one ( but not the original one)
( Yes I rapped it with a hammer also!)
     
Just wondering if I am missing anything prior removing the starter.

Thanks 

yes you can get it at home depot, my favorite chandelry. works for keeping the woodpeckers off the house

Ah, so sorry to hear about your loss.  I remember when my dog passed away, I was in college.  My mother didn't tell me about it until I got home "because I couldn't do anything about it anyway."  Heartless.

So sad!
I can picture you bounding  thru the front door home from college on Thanksgiving calling out for you beloved pup.
'Here Rex! Come on boy!  Where are you Rexy!? ... Rexxxxyyyy???!!!
'Mom, where's Rex?'
'Oh Rex.. well.. I thought I told you.  You know that truck he always liked to chase?  Well one day Rex ran out chasing that truck and the next thing you know.. ......

 
 

I have tried all of these things and none work. Eventually the birds will crap on your owls, snakes, coyotes, etc.
But one thing does work 100 pct of the time

About once a week I put a dead fish or some hot dogs on the boats surrounding my mooring.  Have not had a problem on my boat since! 

 Not allowing you to change your own zinc anodes.... wow. 

Its getting increasingly difficult to find marine mechanics, and almost impossible for ones willing to work on 30+ year old Universals

We did the haulout. All the marinas here charge between $500 - 650 for even a short few hours haul and none of them will let youleave it i nteh slings for a  an hour

What little caulking left was deteriorated . there was some on the threads, but none between outer flange and the hull. none on the interior flange. There was a rubber gasket on the inside but i guess it wasnt thick enough.  installing the plug when not sailing more often this year probably loosened it up enough to start the leak.  So we will goop it up good inside and out with life caulk or 4200 and put it back in.  i dont think we need a backing plate. 

     

Hello all,

Plastic  Airmar  knotmeter thru hull - I noticed it leaking and sea water in the bow area bilge.  I went to remove and insert the plug and tighten the nut. The whole interior base of the thru hull turns also which is no bueno. I tightend as best I could but it still leaks. Is my only alternative a short haul to further investigate?  I dont know how it was originally installed but obviously without good sealant/adhesive

I measured the diameter of the key switch and went off to one of my favorite marine stores: the auto parts store. Duncan Auto sold me a Cole Hersee 9577 on/off key switch for $27.68 CDN as shown in Photo 1.

From tech notes, 2017.

2 position.  The old one had three posts!  Don't ask me why.

That was my first thought and Im sure will be fine, but felt maybe the Sierra 'marine' version would be better.
The shelves and selection options were pretty empty 

Otherwise -

1. The brass 'pivot' nut on the throttle linkage failed. Universal part was  $26. What a joke.  I got it for $10 elsewhere which is still robbery. and a few stainless nuts and bolts from Home Depot and back in action

2. Plastic  Airmar  knotmeter thru hull - I noticed it leaking and   I went to insert the plug and tighten. The whole base turns which is no bueno.
I tightend as best I could but it still leaks. I think my only alternatiove is a short haul 

I ended up with a Sierra 3 position push to choke switch.  All the bells and whistles!
Im just using the Batt and I terminals.
It was $20 at Worst Marine and cheaper than the 2 position.

It was a little tight and one of the unused Ig switch terminals will touch the aluminum housing of the preheat switch
which is its neighbor if the ignition switch should loosen and rotate on its own a little. It shouldnt happen and I dont think
anything will (Those unused terminals wont ever be energized)  but I will wrap some electrical tape on them anyway.