Topics

 Hi.  1986 M25
We have never had to bleed this engine.  But now she wont start.  I assumed the separate electric Facet fuel pump basically made the engine
self bleeding.  But first start of the season  she ran for  30 seconds then stalled. Its trying to fire up again but wont. We have new primary and secondary filters, everything else seems ok.   Voltage, cranking speed, glow plugs ok.  Next steps?  Does it need bleeding? She always starts right up and purs like a kittren.  All the upgrades have been done.  Thanks   
   

[What should be my next step?]

Went to the start the engine  and no power at the cockpit panel.
Traced to a failed ring terminal at the pos starter solenoid
Fixed that and noticed the terminal on the starter or the ignition switch looked horrible. Cleaned and replaced terminal. 
So now I have power at the cockpit panel and 12.3V everywhere down to the starter, but starter wont do anything.
I even jumped the starter trerminals with a screwdriver - still nothing.
Soooo, after restoring power everywhere I think I have traced the new issue to a bad starter.
It had been working perfectly.  Never an issue.  I have done all the required upgrades (ammeter wiring, bigger/newer wires and cables, etc)   
Funny it would simply quit without  a hint?
   
What should be my next step?  Pull the starter and have it checked?   It is an older one ( but not the original one)
( Yes I rapped it with a hammer also!)
     
Just wondering if I am missing anything prior removing the starter.

Thanks 

Hello all,

Plastic  Airmar  knotmeter thru hull - I noticed it leaking and sea water in the bow area bilge.  I went to remove and insert the plug and tighten the nut. The whole interior base of the thru hull turns also which is no bueno. I tightend as best I could but it still leaks. Is my only alternative a short haul to further investigate?  I dont know how it was originally installed but obviously without good sealant/adhesive

Hello,
Its time to replace my ignition key switch.  I have separate momentary switches on the panel for glow plugs and starter.
My current switch is 2 position  Off-On  so, when 'on'  it  turns on the fuel pump also.   
I am assuming I can replace with a simple 2 position Cole-Hersee switch.
Is there any reason to replace with a 3 position or something else while I am at it?
Thanks       

p.s.   Its funny the Cole Hersee 3 position are a few dollars cheaper than the 2 position. 

This is a bit weird but an installation from a previous owner for some  transom lights
This board has such great expertise I wonder if you can give a view on the circuitry.

Lets not worry for now  why this is even a thing! Removing the lights will be more work than getting them operational again 

The P.O. wired direct from the battery to a fused terminal strip (he did not use the main panel for some unknown reason)   
with a toggle switch in the cockpit near the helm feeding the lights.

One issue
- If the cockpit switch was accidentally hit say while de-boarding in the daytime , the lights might not be noticed and could remain
on and drain the battery. They are not LED 

If I keep this set up I will swap out the toggle switch for an illuminated push button which would prevent accidental turning on, and the indicator light would show if it was energized by accident     

How does the diagram look?


Many thanks in advance

Hi,
Doing a delivery to Phila in a couple of weeks.
Just curious if anything special to  know about Delaware Bay and up the river here from our group.
I know its shallow, current, ship traffic. 
Cheers

I have leaky injector
I read a few of the threads  but they were old and suggested a new post rather than reply.
I need to tighten and/or replace crush washers on a leaky injector
I see references to two crush washers (#4 and #6 on attached diagram)
An aluminum one near the banjo and a copper one at the bottom of the injector.   
But I could only find one part number  Kubota 17011-53620

Excuse my basic question and be gentle please.
If my alternator is not showing any VDC output when I put a voltmeter on the  + post and - casing....
1. The field excite wire is not doing its job (should be providing 12v with ignition on
Or 2
Something else going on and I should take it in for bench testing.
Anything else?  Even if it was a loose belt it should be outputting something.
Tach is also not working (off AC Tap)

It is a newly installed Leece Neville 3 wire  type.

Assume wires are ok

I need to transition from the standard 1 1/2 inch
sink tail (male  screw) down to a 3/4 inch hose which
drains to my thru hull.  I have been up and down the
Aisles at HDX and Lowe's. No luck.
Any tips?
It looks like the prior owner used some sort of cut off funnel

I think I know the answer, but may need some motivation and courage
New to us M25 has the dreaded original alternator bracket
I know we need to change it, but the 34 year old studs on the manifold (which would need to be changed to larger studs in the kit to mount the new bracket) and nuts look badly rusted and may not survive putting a wench to them. Then I have a bigger problem 
I've been hitting them with penetrating oil each trip to the boat to improve my odds if I go through with this.  Any thoughts or tips?       

Also, what is the '2 nut method' of getting the studs out mentioned below?  My studs do have enough room to get a second nut on.   

NOTE: If you have any room at all to get a second nut on the stud they can be pulled without removing the manifold! Unfortunately, as can be seen, this engine had zero clearance beyond the nut necessitating removing the entire manifold to do this job. Not all engines came with studs this short. If your are long enough to get two nuts on USE THAT METHOD.....

M25
- Looking to replace the 3 small injector 'leak off' return hoses between the injectors
- the Universal part number 299520  gives some $50 options

Don't I just need the proper hose size and cut and replace the hoses and clamp?

Ive seen 1/8 and 1/4 mentioned in the notes
 
Can anyone advise?

Any suggestions on how to make new panels for the under cushion access boards for the seat / bunk storage areas?
The original boards are a little punky and seem to retain moisture.
Thought is use the originals for patterns and cut out new boards out of 1/2 in plywood with a router.
Seal / paint the new boards
What have others done?


 

I'm coming to realize one way to stop having all these problems is to stop looking for them.

Pedestal control cable was led between the quadrant and the wire steering cable. The installer  had to
work hard  at screwing that up. Chewed up a little but not bad for 35 years of chafing.

1986 - M25

I've been reading the trouble shooting and going thru the process, but meanwhile was looking for clarification on the starter switch itself.



We have a slow cranking issue, sometimes will not crank at all.
New and charged starting battery
We're told one problem might be the starter switch on the panel
It is a momentary pull switch.
I don't know if it means anything but, there are 12 volts going to the switch line side. When I pull the switch to start and have  a meter on the terminal on the other side of the switch, it seems to fluctuate as it tries to crank but only gets as high as about 7 volts. Is that normal? Could it be an internal switch corrosion issue that needs replacement?   I see push button switches on CD website but not a pull switch like we have.

The pull switch is on the far right and the glow plug button on its left

Even if  I dont use the glow plugs (I always do), shouldnt I always  have normal fast cranking?   
   
Thanks

New to us M25 from mid 80s and we plan on replacing all fuel and heating/cooling, raw water hoses which look original.
The CD exact replacement parts prices are giving sticker shock.  $40-50 each hose?
Where do frugal folks source their hoses?