Instrument panel rewire

[ErikN]

One of my winter projects is to rewire the instrument panel, and I thought some folks might enjoy this "before" photo of the rat's nest.

I also have one question: are there any conventions regarding wire colors for, e.g., the wires that connect the gauge positives, negatives, etc.? I'm aware of the ABYC conventions for the harness wire colors, but I'm curious about the short wires that run between posts on the back of the panel.

[Noah]

Why not use the same colors as the factory?

https://www.catalinadirect.com/images/features/Z4644%20Wiring%20Diagram.pdf?CFID=15307861&CFTOKEN=350a36bcc8b2d9ee-4BFA05BB-CEA4-88D4-6D5C5AD0F319FDDC

[glennd3]

https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,10792.msg84494.html#msg84494

You may want to see this thread.

[Ron Hill]

Erik : While you're in there - change out the instrument light from the old #194 bulbs to LEDs.  They are way tooo hot!!   I wrote an Mainsheet Tech Note article on that subject (Superbrightleds.Com). 

I went to red LEDs for night vision!!

A thought

[ErikN]

I spent a long time researching this project, but I somehow missed that thread. The red led's are a great idea--thanks!

As for the wire colors, the factory diagram shows the colors for the wires coming up to the panel, but not the various connections, e.g., from the ignition switch to the glow plug and start buttons, all the instrument ground connections, etc. I could make all the positives red and all the grounds black, but I thought some different colors might make it easier (for me) to follow different paths. It should be a lot simpler after I rewire it, so this really isn't a big deal.

[waughoo]

Noah's suggestion to use the wiring kit from CD.  That gets you the color code for the main harness.  I wouldn't frett about the colors for the start button wires etc. 

I want to rebuild my whole panel with new gauges.  Mine are pretty well sun busted.  Does anyone have a source for the gauges sold in the kit sold by CD?  They are lit in a way that makes them SO MUCH easier to see at night.  I have snooped around but have yet to find the ones used by the factory.

[glennd3]

I do not believe the manufacturer is still in business. I got replacements from Defender, see my thread from above.

Noah's suggestion to use the wiring kit from CD.  That gets you the color code for the main harness.  I wouldn't frett about the colors for the start button wires etc. 

I want to rebuild my whole panel with new gauges.  Mine are pretty well sun busted.  Does anyone have a source for the gauges sold in the kit sold by CD?  They are lit in a way that makes them SO MUCH easier to see at night.  I have snooped around but have yet to find the ones used by the factory.

[Catalina007]

I do not believe the manufacturer is still in business. I got replacements from Defender, see my thread from above.

Noah's suggestion to use the wiring kit from CD.  That gets you the color code for the main harness.  I wouldn't frett about the colors for the start button wires etc. 

I want to rebuild my whole panel with new gauges.  Mine are pretty well sun busted.  Does anyone have a source for the gauges sold in the kit sold by CD?  They are lit in a way that makes them SO MUCH easier to see at night.  I have snooped around but have yet to find the ones used by the factory.

I only buy proprietary Catalina items from CD. The prices on everything else are a ripoff. I replaced with Sierra gauges, You can get them anywhere and can buy individually also.  https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rra-69709p?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiAhqCdBhB0EiwAH8M_Gou5p4d4BDOS587LQYgGUYXN0kTLkRSTaLVkO3m2WOJv0BjzPde-_hoC9CoQAvD_BwE

[waughoo]

The problem with the Sierra gauges are that they are lit in the same way as the old ones in the cluster.  The ones CD sells in their clusters are lit from behind as is the wand.  Plus they look way better (to me). 

[Ron Hill]

Erik : I still have the original instruments.  After I replaced the 194 bulbs with red LEDs I took an after noon and soldered all of the wires into the U/ring connectors. Then I sprayed the back with "BoShield". Have never had a problem since and never had a reason to take that panel off any more!!

A thought

[ErikN]

Why solder, rather than crimp & heat shrink? I'm planning to replace the wire harness next (the old RV plugs are headed to the dumpster) and I would like to do all this properly.

[Ron Hill]

Erik : Those old RV plugs (Gummy Bears) were changed out  long ago - 1991!! 

The Boshield spray does almost the same thing as heat shrink - it protects the connections with a waxy coating.  You need to try it!!

A thought

[ErikN]

Had I owned the boat in 1991, those plugs would be long gone! At least some previous owner removed the ammeter.

But I'm curious, when is it better to solder connections rather than crimp them? Is there a rule of thumb, or is it preference?

[Jim Hardesty]

But I'm curious, when is it better to solder connections rather than crimp them? Is there a rule of thumb, or is it preference?

I remember reading somewhere years ago that ABYC calls for crimped connections.  If my memory is correct it had to do with the wicking solder making the wire prone to breaking due to vibration.  So I changed my ways and now use crimp connections.  Do need good tools and proper connectors.  After making a crimp connection I give it a visual look and a good pull, never had a connection I made fail.
Having said that, don't think that soldering is a bad thing.  There may be some place it's better.
Jim

[Noah]

The ABYC E-11 standard is quite clear that "solder shall not be the sole means of electrical connection". Crimp and then solder yes. Straight solder. NO.