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On our last alternator change I found ZERO shops that made sense to do a rebuild. At $100/hour labor cost and $150 for a new one makes no sense. 
Don't bother looking to repair.   
I would be careful going bigger than 75 amp until you do a bigger upgrade due to the origina brackets that have been known to fail. 
Throw a cheapie in there for the rest of this season.   

Hi all, thanks to everyone who helped me with my cooling issues. I flushed the HX, filled the header tank to the correct mark and burped the engine. But now I'm puzzling about what should be a normal operating temperature. At 1500 RPM the indicator reads a needle's width past the central vertical mark. At 1800 RPM the indicator reads a needle's width under 180 degrees, is this about right or too hot for a Universal M35?

Second question. I've taken much time and trouble to buy a correctly sized alternator belt, make sure it's aligned on the pulleys and tensioned correctly. But the darn thing will start slipping after a few hours. I really don't get this. The belts on my car go for thousands of hours without needing any attention, so why can't the boat belt do the same?

seems close enough. your gauge also may not be 100 pct accurate. what is the seawater temp you operate in?

yes i agree. But does the electric pump pressurize just to the bottom of the injector pump? O :sleepy:r through the injector pump and to the injector banjo return lines?

sorry to be so pedantic - just trying to understand the system and everyone has a different theory.

Ive changed the filters many times and never had to bleed anything it woud start right up.
Now, my electric pump runs at the same speed always.  It dosnt pressurize the system and slow down.
Woudnt this make sense as it would just be recirculating, effectively polishing, back to the tank via return lines?
 
 

Opened knob and ran pump for a long time.
Pitch never changed.
Engine wouldnt start
Bled as deescribed
Engine started

Yes on my engine the return line to the tank comes out of the aft injector.
I bled to the top nut on the injector pump.
I also bled the first injector, but I think teh top of the IP did it.   . 

My setup has only a fuel supply line going into part 33, the bleeder knob. As shown in the diagram
If that knob is open (CCW) and the fuel pump is running, nothing comes out of it.
I would expect to get either air, bubbly fuel, or fuel, or some combination of those.

I don't have a return line coming out of the bleeder assemply as shown in the photo 2  which is not my boat
and what which I believe is what you are describing

yes but when I have the bleed knob open and the fuel pump on, there is no fuel coming out.. Its not bleeding. 

No idea where the air came from.  Hope it dosnt come back.
Funny when I had the first injector nut completely off  and cranked the engine to bleed, the engine began to start on two cylinders.
Earlier I had the bleeder valve completely open, completely closed, it dosnt do anything.  no air, no bubbles, no fuel. I took it off
completely and bled.

Thank you for your help everyone.
After lots of bleeding we got her going.
Now... I hope we dont have a new air leak to track down.  

[YES]

Thank you

007 : There is a short hose coming out of the engine mounted fuel filter - are you getting fuel out of that hose?  YES
I get fuel up to the burled knob

but how could a clog item make it past 3 filters!
Facet pump filter  ? micron
Racor filter 10 micron
Engine primary 3 micron

Ill look for your article
I dod find this today from a guy who removed his pump

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWGgLEWiRoo



If so, you just might have a clogged Injector Pump/lines to the injectors. Then you'll have remove that injection pump and look for that clog.  If all looks OK with the pump then blow thru the 1st fuel line backwards and see if it won't clear.  If clear then take it to a diesel truck repair and have the pump checked.

Removal is not the difficult - I wrote a Mainsheet Tech note article on that very subject!!

A few thoughts
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Ron, Apache #788

Have not drained the muffler but we are on land and running out of a bucket, and then took the hose out of the bucket for further cranking. 
Will check that but it seems its a fuel delivery issue. Yep on cables.   

ok, I started at the Facet pump and systematically bled all filters and junctions up to the bleeder knob.
I opened the knob (CCW) all the way. Nothing  came out.  No air and no fuel.
I unscrewed the cap holding the bleeder knob in place.  Basically removing the knob.  Turned on the electric pump and had good fuel flow.
So I have fuel getting to the injector pump.
Next step.. is fuel getting to the injectors?
Nope.
I loosend the injector nuts and cranked the engine.
Dry hole.
It was suggested I make sure the stop cable was fully retracted.  Even 1/8 inch coudl keep the engine from starting. 
The stop lever seems to be all the way against its stop (forward) so I think that is good.
Unfortunately things seem to be pointing to the injector pump. But it seems odd it would fail after just starting and running fine,
It always starts right up and did so the other day.  Ran for about a minute prior launching and we shut it off.
Now it wont start. 
Anything I am missing?
   





 
     

sounds like you snagged a line on your keel or skeg that was attached to something (abandoned pot or Jimmy Hoffa)  and when you tacked it fell off.

 Hi.  1986 M25
We have never had to bleed this engine.  But now she wont start.  I assumed the separate electric Facet fuel pump basically made the engine
self bleeding.  But first start of the season  she ran for  30 seconds then stalled. Its trying to fire up again but wont. We have new primary and secondary filters, everything else seems ok.   Voltage, cranking speed, glow plugs ok.  Next steps?  Does it need bleeding? She always starts right up and purs like a kittren.  All the upgrades have been done.  Thanks