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#1
Main Message Board / Re: Shore Power Circuit Breake...
Last post by KWKloeber - Yesterday at 10:02:30 PMQuote from: Tom Patterson on Yesterday at 05:34:23 PMThe challenge will be fitting it into the panel.They way I viewed it, the CD breaker would need to be mounted upside down because there is no space below the existing hole. (without rearranging the AC side of the panel)
Mine has a bit different layout but same issue -- I preferred to drill a second hole above the existing one and mount a standard two-handle-toggled breaker.
Quotethe GFCI on the light pole in the parking lot that trips when I plug the cord into the boat- regardless of whether the 30 amp breaker on the boat is on or off.So, could it be that the breaker is "leaking?" even in the off position (maybe thru the reverse polarity light)?
IIWMB, I'd
- completely disconnect the triplex shore cable at the panel to help isolate what segment the fault is in.
- Depending on the "answer" disconnect it at the boatside inlet. Maybe the smart plug is "leaking?"
Quotehoping I was just missing something simple and wouldn't have to go this route on the panel.Ha, that's a riot. Thank you. I needed that chuckle.
But no joy, you can't get away with that one. We all know that
- On a boat. ANY boat. There's NOTHING simple when troubleshooting.
- Before fixing or replacing ANYTHING, two other things will need to be done first.
#2
Main Message Board / Re: ? Sudden overheating?
Last post by oldcatsailor - Yesterday at 08:42:24 PMHad overheating problem screech was coolant pump lock up got back to mooring .removed belt pump was wobbling called Kubota supplier and got new pump installed and problem solved careful ordering pump first one wrong sent photo 2 nd one worked fine.
#3
Main Message Board / Re: Oil/temp warning
Last post by KWKloeber - Yesterday at 08:37:50 PMDavid
He probably didn't use (or have) the correct crimper frame for heat-shrink-insulated terminals.
Or lost his mind and didn't crimp before heat-shrinking?
Sometimes mechanics get ahead of themselves/distracted and the consequences multiply themselves exponentially. Not an excuse, just reality.
I have stories!
Great that it all turned out for the better.
He probably didn't use (or have) the correct crimper frame for heat-shrink-insulated terminals.
Or lost his mind and didn't crimp before heat-shrinking?
Sometimes mechanics get ahead of themselves/distracted and the consequences multiply themselves exponentially. Not an excuse, just reality.
I have stories!
Great that it all turned out for the better.
#4
Main Message Board / Re: Shore Power Circuit Breake...
Last post by Noah - Yesterday at 06:52:57 PM My panel is not OEM but for illustration purposes to show how "today's" modern panels have the AC portion covered.
#5
Main Message Board / Re: Shore Power Circuit Breake...
Last post by Noah - Yesterday at 06:42:58 PMFor a cover, you can go with something as simple as a Tupperware type container or glue ip something out o plexiglass or even wood. Anything to protect you from shocks or it accidentally shorting out.
#6
Main Message Board / Re: Oil/temp warning
Last post by dclintonbaker - Yesterday at 06:12:50 PMUpdate. Everything now works as it should!
The original work was to replace the gearbox and engine mounts.
To do this the engine was disconnected and moved forward. When they reconnected it they replaced the connectors with heat shrink insulated spade connectors.
When I was having the issue with the alarm sounding continually I disconnected the harness and found that the red/white stripe wire (goes to the I terminal of the key switch) at the harness side was not crimped properly and slipped off the wire. I replaced both sides. The alarm now silenced when the engine started.
No instruments..connected the black wire of the harness and all the instruments worked with the exception of the fuel gauge.
I trouble shooted that and established that the plate of the transducer on the top of the tank was not earthed properly. I noticed a black wire (circled in the image) disappears through the floor of the lazarette in front of the tank and is routed though the locker under the bathroom sink and into the engine compartment..see the images. the mechanic claimed that this wire was never connected. I connected it to a good ground on the engine and the fuel gauge now works.
I confronted the mechanic with the poor crimp which was an awkward conversation. I am waiting to hear back with an apology.
Thanks for the tip about tethering the wiring to the oil pressure switch.
Thanks also the idea of changing mechanics.
The original work was to replace the gearbox and engine mounts.
To do this the engine was disconnected and moved forward. When they reconnected it they replaced the connectors with heat shrink insulated spade connectors.
When I was having the issue with the alarm sounding continually I disconnected the harness and found that the red/white stripe wire (goes to the I terminal of the key switch) at the harness side was not crimped properly and slipped off the wire. I replaced both sides. The alarm now silenced when the engine started.
No instruments..connected the black wire of the harness and all the instruments worked with the exception of the fuel gauge.
I trouble shooted that and established that the plate of the transducer on the top of the tank was not earthed properly. I noticed a black wire (circled in the image) disappears through the floor of the lazarette in front of the tank and is routed though the locker under the bathroom sink and into the engine compartment..see the images. the mechanic claimed that this wire was never connected. I connected it to a good ground on the engine and the fuel gauge now works.
I confronted the mechanic with the poor crimp which was an awkward conversation. I am waiting to hear back with an apology.
Thanks for the tip about tethering the wiring to the oil pressure switch.
Thanks also the idea of changing mechanics.
#7
Main Message Board / Re: Shore Power Circuit Breake...
Last post by Tom Patterson - Yesterday at 05:34:23 PMNoah- no shade taken. I appreciate your suggestion. What kind of protective cover are you talking about? Off the top of my head, I'm thinking something like an .060 piece of Lexan mounted on standoffs over the back of the AC side.
KW:
1) Thanks, I've read about this in Don Casey's Sailboat Maintenance Manual and have ordered one from CD. The challenge will be fitting it into the panel. I'll also have to re-route the white wire from the terminal strip to the double pole breaker and back.
2) I haven't identified which white/black wires on the terminal strip come from the SmartPlug but plan to. The 30 amp breaker switch will turn the AC power on and off in the boat, so I assume the shore power feed runs to the breaker first- but will verify.
3) Just to clarify, it's the GFCI on the light pole in the parking lot that trips when I plug the cord into the boat- regardless of whether the 30 amp breaker on the boat is on or off.
4) Thanks for the suggestions for tracing the short. I've done this many, many times in another hobby, but primarily with 12V DC and 14V AC systems. I was hoping I was just missing something simple and wouldn't have to go this route on the panel. But this is the last system on the boat that I haven't thoroughly documented, so I guess the message is it's time.
KW:
1) Thanks, I've read about this in Don Casey's Sailboat Maintenance Manual and have ordered one from CD. The challenge will be fitting it into the panel. I'll also have to re-route the white wire from the terminal strip to the double pole breaker and back.
2) I haven't identified which white/black wires on the terminal strip come from the SmartPlug but plan to. The 30 amp breaker switch will turn the AC power on and off in the boat, so I assume the shore power feed runs to the breaker first- but will verify.
3) Just to clarify, it's the GFCI on the light pole in the parking lot that trips when I plug the cord into the boat- regardless of whether the 30 amp breaker on the boat is on or off.
4) Thanks for the suggestions for tracing the short. I've done this many, many times in another hobby, but primarily with 12V DC and 14V AC systems. I was hoping I was just missing something simple and wouldn't have to go this route on the panel. But this is the last system on the boat that I haven't thoroughly documented, so I guess the message is it's time.
#8
Main Message Board / Re: Help Please! I’m completel...
Last post by KeelsonGraham - Yesterday at 08:48:49 AMThank you Ken, those are excellent pics.
#9
Main Message Board / Re: Help Please! I’m completel...
Last post by KeelsonGraham - Yesterday at 08:45:41 AMQuote from: Ron Hill on May 16, 2024, 01:24:09 PMKeel : Look at the M35BC engine manual!!
A thought
I did, the trouble is it shows the hose ends going into the HX and it shows the water pump end in a separate image, minus hoses and minus labels telling you which is the inlet and outlet. There's no diagram showing the overall hose layout.
#10
Main Message Board / Re: Shore Power Circuit Breake...
Last post by KWKloeber - May 16, 2024, 08:38:22 PMTom
Here's a reason why it's key for owners to post pics when they have a problem -- the breaker on your panel is not like the one that I linked to and is not a safe breaker.
It should be 2-pole, not single-pole, and therefore should be replaced with one of the type CD shows, or a double-handle-toggled breaker.
You didn't answer which white/black wires on the AC Terminal strip in your first picture are from the Smart Plug. So does the shore power feed run thru the 30-amp breaker or does it go to the term strip?
The reason as others say that a breaker was later added at the transom is that ABYC requires the Main Breaker to be within 10 feet of the boatside inlet.
Without parsing what work you explained that you did to find the ground fault, generally:
It could be a failed GFIC receptacle. That is common. So start there and disconnect the circuit for the port/starboard receptacles.
Or the water heater possibly leaking current, so try that circuit next.
Then the charger circuit.
As you work thru it, reconnect whatever you disconnected before progressing to the next circuit.
Here's a reason why it's key for owners to post pics when they have a problem -- the breaker on your panel is not like the one that I linked to and is not a safe breaker.
It should be 2-pole, not single-pole, and therefore should be replaced with one of the type CD shows, or a double-handle-toggled breaker.
You didn't answer which white/black wires on the AC Terminal strip in your first picture are from the Smart Plug. So does the shore power feed run thru the 30-amp breaker or does it go to the term strip?
The reason as others say that a breaker was later added at the transom is that ABYC requires the Main Breaker to be within 10 feet of the boatside inlet.
Without parsing what work you explained that you did to find the ground fault, generally:
- Start with all connected (I presume that with the breaker off, there is no ground fault trip?)
- Systematically start disconnecting circuits to isolate which one is causing the trip.
- Then systematically isolate to locate what item ON THE tripped circuit is causing the trip.
It could be a failed GFIC receptacle. That is common. So start there and disconnect the circuit for the port/starboard receptacles.
Or the water heater possibly leaking current, so try that circuit next.
Then the charger circuit.
As you work thru it, reconnect whatever you disconnected before progressing to the next circuit.