Recent posts

#1

Catalina 34s Parts & Pieces For Sale or Wanted / Re: Mail sail cover, free, jus...

Last post by surfnturfpaul - Yesterday at 10:56:44 PM

Do you still have this sale cover? I am in Moss Landing California. Would gladly pay shipping.

#2

Main Message Board / Re: Air Conditioner size .... ...

Last post by Gulfsailor - Yesterday at 10:55:15 PM

I had the same 16k btu on my Ericson I installed 13 years ago. It ran fine on my Honda EU2000 while on the hook.

#3

Catalina 34s Parts & Pieces For Sale or Wanted / Re: ST4000 Version 1 Auto Pilo...

Last post by surfnturfpaul - Yesterday at 10:48:25 PM

Definitely interested I have an old 1986 Catalina, with the same unit and need a new belt. Contact me.surfnturfpaul@gmail.com

#4

Main Message Board / Re: Air Conditioner size .... ...

Last post by WTunnessen - Yesterday at 07:28:38 PM

16K BTU works very well here in the Chesapeake Bay in the summer. But I have wondered if it's oversized. If you are planning on running your AC while on anchor with a portable generator, you might consider using a 14K unit. If you plan to use it mostly at slip on shore power and like to sleep in refrigerator, 16k will deliver.

#5

Main Message Board / Re: Air Conditioner size .... ...

Last post by Gulfsailor - Yesterday at 07:05:22 PM

I just installed a Mermaid 16k btu over the past week. Should be finished tomorrow.

#6

Main Message Board / Air Conditioner size .... 14K ...

Last post by Bob K - Yesterday at 10:09:56 AM

Hello,
About to place my order for a new AC unit.  Still having trouble deciding size.   Chesapeake Bay area.
What size is your AC?

#7

Main Message Board / Re: ? Sudden overheating?

Last post by Schulcb - Yesterday at 08:03:34 AM

After removing the S wire from the gauge, the resistance from the S wire to the panel ground (checked using the G post on the temp gauge) IS 970 ohms.  Checking the resistance at the sender again (cold this AM) is 900 ohms.

When the gauge started displaying inaccurate readings it was sporatic with it going from "pinned" high to reading normal.  Then the frequency diminished until it always reads >240.

This morning with the engine cool, when I engerize the panel the gauge reads ~170'F.

Not sure it this tells you anything...

Thanks,
Craig

#8

Main Message Board / Re: engine room sound insulati...

Last post by Ron Hill - Yesterday at 06:01:06 AM

Guys : I had to "work at it", but I got the 1 1/4" because it gives greater deadening of the sound!!  BTW, I only used screws & washers!!

A thought

#9

Main Message Board / Re: ? Sudden overheating?

Last post by KWKloeber - May 11, 2024, 11:39:18 PM

When the gauge goes high, is the engine cover closed? 
Do you have foil insulation on it **(terminal shorting out)**
(see Ron's previous warning about that!!) 

If it is not already, insulate the temp sender terminal with a small BlueSea terminal cap.

I to G terminals is 12.5V. 
No wire on the "S" terminal, gauge rests below 120'F.
"S" and "G" terminals are connected, gauge reads >240'F.

It APPEARS that the gauge is OK

resistance of the sender is 435 ohms at 97'F.

That APPEARS reasonable for that temp.  That was with the S wire disconnected from the sender correct?

I ran a new wire directly from the sender to the "S" on the gauge.  Gauge still shows >240'F.

Based on #3 on the troubleshooting guide, is the sender shorted (0 ohms)?

What #3 refers to is:  "If you short out the terminal on the sender, the gauge will (**should**) read >240.
You measured the sender (said it was 435 ohms -- so no, the sender itself appears to not be shorted out.)

I don't think they are around any longer.

Along with nearly all other manufacturers (Guest, Ancor, etc, etc,) Teleflex gauges have been gobbled up by SeaStar Marine.  I doubt they can help much beyond what is in the troubleshooting steps.

Remove the S wire from the gauge.  Check the resistance from that wire to panel ground.
  It **should** read the same as the temp sender resistance

[The harness should have two wires on one terminal (red/white and ?blue?)]

#10

Main Message Board / Re: Oil/temp warning

Last post by KWKloeber - May 11, 2024, 10:57:59 PM

thanks for your continuing interest Ken.
Oil switch is an open circuit with the engine off and closed circuit with the engine running.

My current project is the reconnect all of the leads from the engine to the harness that runs aft to the instrument panel.

@d

Did your mechanic do any troubleshooting (before or after replacing the switch and alarm)?

Your switch is operating correctly.  (The closed switch when you have oil pressure is supposed to power the fuel pump.)

With the key switch on, check the voltage at both switch terminals to ground.

Then we are going to take the switch out of the equation so we can test with the engine off (no oil pressure):

• Make up a short male-to-male jumper
  (or get a male-to-male adapter at the auto parts)

  
  
  

 
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-disconnect-interior-adapter-assortment-85412/22141457-p

• Jumper together the two terminals.

  
  
  

• Tape it so it can't short out to the engine.
  
  

  
  
  

There should be TWO wires on one of the terminals, so check around to ensure there's nothing loose.  
Something appears to be abnormal on your harness because there **should** be a third wire (probably blue) running from the switch (your yellow terminal) to the alternator EXCITE terminal.

With the switch terminals jumpered and key on, listen for the fuel pump clicking.  
Does the alarm sound?  Faint or loud?


Report back!

The harness should have two wires on one terminal (red/white and ?blue?)