Recent posts
#1
Main Message Board / Re: Plumbing Questions
Last post by Noah - Today at 06:34:32 PMAs Alex said, changing the shower drain to PEX (or just replacing the hose at all) is a PIA to access and replace. If you don't have to do it, I wouldn't. Make sure you have a strainer on in the head to clean out debris. I did change all of my hot water to PEX because the existing hose and hose clamps were not ideal and prone to possible leakage when heated. I also installed a temperature regulator/mixing valve to control hot water temp. I kept the regular nylon reenforced hoses on the cool water lines. Unfortunately I have a lot of stuff going on under the sink with my Echo Charger and negative busbar living under there behind the door as well. Very tight!
#2
Main Message Board / Re: Plumbing Questions
Last post by waughoo - Today at 06:14:53 PMI would use PexA (uponor) to do the boat's domestic plumbing. I would suggest angle stops/shut offs at all the fixtures as if there is a problem with a fixture it can be isolated while still allowing supply to the others. I have a plan to put a shut off and drains for the cockpit shower as my boat lives in a non winterizing climate but we do get occasional low temps that I'd prefer to drain that circuit when it isn't summer time.
The shower drain is under the cabin sole and not easily reached without an access port drilled into the floor pan under the teak and holy insert.
The shower drain is under the cabin sole and not easily reached without an access port drilled into the floor pan under the teak and holy insert.
#3
Main Message Board / Plumbing Questions
Last post by melp64 - Today at 05:29:22 PMI am just about to start working on my plumbing. My day job is construction so I have pex that is alway available to me. I am sure lots of you have already done this and I am wondering if you had any tips. I am also wondering were the shower drain goes and how do I get to it.
#4
Main Message Board / Re: Shore Power Circuit Breake...
Last post by KWKloeber - Yesterday at 10:02:30 PMQuote from: Tom Patterson on Yesterday at 05:34:23 PMThe challenge will be fitting it into the panel.They way I viewed it, the CD breaker would need to be mounted upside down because there is no space below the existing hole. (without rearranging the AC side of the panel)
Mine has a bit different layout but same issue -- I preferred to drill a second hole above the existing one and mount a standard two-handle-toggled breaker.
Quotethe GFCI on the light pole in the parking lot that trips when I plug the cord into the boat- regardless of whether the 30 amp breaker on the boat is on or off.So, could it be that the breaker is "leaking?" even in the off position (maybe thru the reverse polarity light)?
IIWMB, I'd
- completely disconnect the triplex shore cable at the panel to help isolate what segment the fault is in.
- Depending on the "answer" disconnect it at the boatside inlet. Maybe the smart plug is "leaking?"
Quotehoping I was just missing something simple and wouldn't have to go this route on the panel.Ha, that's a riot. Thank you. I needed that chuckle.
But no joy, you can't get away with that one. We all know that
- On a boat. ANY boat. There's NOTHING simple when troubleshooting.
- Before fixing or replacing ANYTHING, two other things will need to be done first.
#5
Main Message Board / Re: ? Sudden overheating?
Last post by oldcatsailor - Yesterday at 08:42:24 PMHad overheating problem screech was coolant pump lock up got back to mooring .removed belt pump was wobbling called Kubota supplier and got new pump installed and problem solved careful ordering pump first one wrong sent photo 2 nd one worked fine.
#6
Main Message Board / Re: Oil/temp warning
Last post by KWKloeber - Yesterday at 08:37:50 PMDavid
He probably didn't use (or have) the correct crimper frame for heat-shrink-insulated terminals.
Or lost his mind and didn't crimp before heat-shrinking?
Sometimes mechanics get ahead of themselves/distracted and the consequences multiply themselves exponentially. Not an excuse, just reality.
I have stories!
Great that it all turned out for the better.
He probably didn't use (or have) the correct crimper frame for heat-shrink-insulated terminals.
Or lost his mind and didn't crimp before heat-shrinking?
Sometimes mechanics get ahead of themselves/distracted and the consequences multiply themselves exponentially. Not an excuse, just reality.
I have stories!
Great that it all turned out for the better.
#7
Main Message Board / Re: Shore Power Circuit Breake...
Last post by Noah - Yesterday at 06:52:57 PM My panel is not OEM but for illustration purposes to show how "today's" modern panels have the AC portion covered.
#8
Main Message Board / Re: Shore Power Circuit Breake...
Last post by Noah - Yesterday at 06:42:58 PMFor a cover, you can go with something as simple as a Tupperware type container or glue ip something out o plexiglass or even wood. Anything to protect you from shocks or it accidentally shorting out.
#9
Main Message Board / Re: Oil/temp warning
Last post by dclintonbaker - Yesterday at 06:12:50 PMUpdate. Everything now works as it should!
The original work was to replace the gearbox and engine mounts.
To do this the engine was disconnected and moved forward. When they reconnected it they replaced the connectors with heat shrink insulated spade connectors.
When I was having the issue with the alarm sounding continually I disconnected the harness and found that the red/white stripe wire (goes to the I terminal of the key switch) at the harness side was not crimped properly and slipped off the wire. I replaced both sides. The alarm now silenced when the engine started.
No instruments..connected the black wire of the harness and all the instruments worked with the exception of the fuel gauge.
I trouble shooted that and established that the plate of the transducer on the top of the tank was not earthed properly. I noticed a black wire (circled in the image) disappears through the floor of the lazarette in front of the tank and is routed though the locker under the bathroom sink and into the engine compartment..see the images. the mechanic claimed that this wire was never connected. I connected it to a good ground on the engine and the fuel gauge now works.
I confronted the mechanic with the poor crimp which was an awkward conversation. I am waiting to hear back with an apology.
Thanks for the tip about tethering the wiring to the oil pressure switch.
Thanks also the idea of changing mechanics.
The original work was to replace the gearbox and engine mounts.
To do this the engine was disconnected and moved forward. When they reconnected it they replaced the connectors with heat shrink insulated spade connectors.
When I was having the issue with the alarm sounding continually I disconnected the harness and found that the red/white stripe wire (goes to the I terminal of the key switch) at the harness side was not crimped properly and slipped off the wire. I replaced both sides. The alarm now silenced when the engine started.
No instruments..connected the black wire of the harness and all the instruments worked with the exception of the fuel gauge.
I trouble shooted that and established that the plate of the transducer on the top of the tank was not earthed properly. I noticed a black wire (circled in the image) disappears through the floor of the lazarette in front of the tank and is routed though the locker under the bathroom sink and into the engine compartment..see the images. the mechanic claimed that this wire was never connected. I connected it to a good ground on the engine and the fuel gauge now works.
I confronted the mechanic with the poor crimp which was an awkward conversation. I am waiting to hear back with an apology.
Thanks for the tip about tethering the wiring to the oil pressure switch.
Thanks also the idea of changing mechanics.
#10
Main Message Board / Re: Shore Power Circuit Breake...
Last post by Tom Patterson - Yesterday at 05:34:23 PMNoah- no shade taken. I appreciate your suggestion. What kind of protective cover are you talking about? Off the top of my head, I'm thinking something like an .060 piece of Lexan mounted on standoffs over the back of the AC side.
KW:
1) Thanks, I've read about this in Don Casey's Sailboat Maintenance Manual and have ordered one from CD. The challenge will be fitting it into the panel. I'll also have to re-route the white wire from the terminal strip to the double pole breaker and back.
2) I haven't identified which white/black wires on the terminal strip come from the SmartPlug but plan to. The 30 amp breaker switch will turn the AC power on and off in the boat, so I assume the shore power feed runs to the breaker first- but will verify.
3) Just to clarify, it's the GFCI on the light pole in the parking lot that trips when I plug the cord into the boat- regardless of whether the 30 amp breaker on the boat is on or off.
4) Thanks for the suggestions for tracing the short. I've done this many, many times in another hobby, but primarily with 12V DC and 14V AC systems. I was hoping I was just missing something simple and wouldn't have to go this route on the panel. But this is the last system on the boat that I haven't thoroughly documented, so I guess the message is it's time.
KW:
1) Thanks, I've read about this in Don Casey's Sailboat Maintenance Manual and have ordered one from CD. The challenge will be fitting it into the panel. I'll also have to re-route the white wire from the terminal strip to the double pole breaker and back.
2) I haven't identified which white/black wires on the terminal strip come from the SmartPlug but plan to. The 30 amp breaker switch will turn the AC power on and off in the boat, so I assume the shore power feed runs to the breaker first- but will verify.
3) Just to clarify, it's the GFCI on the light pole in the parking lot that trips when I plug the cord into the boat- regardless of whether the 30 amp breaker on the boat is on or off.
4) Thanks for the suggestions for tracing the short. I've done this many, many times in another hobby, but primarily with 12V DC and 14V AC systems. I was hoping I was just missing something simple and wouldn't have to go this route on the panel. But this is the last system on the boat that I haven't thoroughly documented, so I guess the message is it's time.