starting problem - batteries?

[Mark Swenson]

Just got back from the boat.  For the first time ever, it didn't start on the first turn of the key.  I've got an M25.  After pressing the glowplug button for about 25 seconds, when I turned the key all I got was some clicking sounds.  No turning of the engine what so ever.  I tried each battery and then both.  Same thing.  The charger panel indicated both batteries had a full charge.  The batteries are just over 6 years old (AGMs).  Could it be anything but the batteries?

[BillR]

I'll tell you a not so funny story.  This summer, on one of our Saturday sails, we were in the middle of Galveston Bay and we decided to head back to the dock. (as it was nearly 100 and light air).  So I tried to start the engine with the same problem that you described.  The fuel pump was working (the clicking noise you heard) but the engine would not turn over or indicate that it had any power.  When I started to investigate the problem, with my wife at the helm, I found that there was no 12V at the starter motor (I have an electrical meter aboard).  In following the wiring backwards I found that the wiring from the solenoid to the starter was fused and that there was voltage at the solenoid.  When I checked the fuse it was OK.  What I found was that the spring in the fuse holder had lost its elasticity over time and did not keep the fuse in firm contact with both electrical connections in the fuse older thus not power at the starter and no start.  I repaired the spring as a short term repair and later replaced the fuse holder.  By boat is a 1989 boat so if yours is much younger you may have to look for other suggestions.  But it's a starting point.

regards,

BillR

[Jim Price]

I had a similar problem on Lady Di a couple of years back.  Motored to pump-out and then dead engine.  Happened twice, only when in the very public marina!  Found problems in same wire BillR mentioned but at end of wire at spade terminal.  Corrosion.  Cleaned (plus fuse holder) & no problems since.  Also, I have done the addition of starting solenoid that has been well documented.  Very easy modification and TREMENDOUS value.  Never pre-heat plugs more that 5-8 seconds in summer (10 -12 in winter) and then have PLENTY amperage in reserve to fire M25XP one or two cycles of engine rotation.  REMEMBER - RELEASE THE IGNITION KEY FROM PRE-HEAT POSITION BEFORE HITTING STARTER BUTTON.  Pre-heat position robs tons of amps and is not required if plugs are already.  Not doing that alone will kill marginal batteries.

[Stu Jackson]

Guys,

I just wrote this up in August 2004:

http://www.c34ia.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=1637&highlight=starter+fuse

For those of you who haven't yet, just go replace it NOW.    Sure beats being somewhere where you HAVE to do it.

Also, Jim's post about not holding the glow plug in while you hit the start button is VERY important.  Steve Lyle wrote this up in the last Mainsheet tech notes.

Stu

[APACHE]

Lang : You've received a bunch of valid comments.  I just helped a friend with an older Bristol - found that just because the glass BUSS fuse looks good, doesn't mean it's OK!!
I don't know what kind of cruising/amp usage that you have, but think that you're pushing any battery after 5+ years.    

[Mark Swenson]

Thanks for all the input.  I hope to make it up to do some more troubleshooting one evening this week!