Dodger Height with Flix

[Ron Hill]

There have been numerous posts on the height.  Some or one crew member likes to look over the top or under the bottom - you and your crew have to come together on that agreement.

However, I see a number of dodgers (and my first one was like that) that have a basic flaw.  The front rail and the back rail need to be at the same height.  If the front rail in much lower than the rear rail, the person of about the same viewing height at the wheel sees a wide dead spot and then must either look under - to see where the boat is going.  There is no reason to have that dead no vision spot.

Check it out and you'll see what I mean.    A thought

[efhughes3]

Mine are level. I'll be down spending the weekend on her (first time overnight in a looong time!) I'll measure my height and snap a pic or two of the view from my eyes when standing and sitting. Maybe a little poll is in order for what people have and like/dislike?

[Stu Jackson]

From an earlier post:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6954.msg48360.html#msg48360

Also, side handrails should be a requirement, not an option.

[efhughes3]

The posts on the other thread are probably what prompted this one.

[Fred Koehlmann]

Interesting that you should bring this up now. We just met this last weekend to discuss with JT's Top Shop about getting the cockpit enclosure made, and in the discussion we were discussing the dodger height. On Dolphina the forward section is a bit lower, but not by that much (see photo). So there isn't a huge "dead spot", but we find that when you roll up the centre section, the roll could have been supported higher up. Our's seems to droop too low for our liking.

As for the height, I found that it is as high as we can take it, because once we vang the boom, it can almost touch the dodger. Raising the dodger would prevent us from getting an optimal sail shape in certain conditions. So while we might like it to be a bit higher, I don't thinks it worth reconfiguring the boom and mainsail for it.

[Fred Koehlmann]

In the photo above, the main may look close to the dodger, but that is only the baggy mainsail cover (it could have been easily 4"-6" higher at the bottom edge). The boom there is about a foot above the dodger. When I vang it down, we may have about 1"-2" clearance.

[Jim Hardesty]

Looks identical to mine.  Made by the same company?  I have a roller furling main and no problem vanging the main.

[Roc]

Exactly like mine too.  I think the canvas came from the factory (California supplier).  I don't like how the bimini leg is attached to the deck.  Would have been better to attach it to the stern rail.  I would like to modify mine to do that.

[tommyt]

I did not catch the foot of the Bimini based on the deck. My 2004 was factory canvas and looks just like the picture with the exception that the base attaches to the stern rail only. I would think that it could be adapted to do the same.

[Fred Koehlmann]

Hi Tom,
I'd be curious knowing how your Bimini frame is configured. We're trying to figure out that right now, but the top of rail seems to be aft too far to keep a similiar frame arrangement. Could you do a simple sketch or have photo of it?
Thanks, Fred.

[Ron Hill]

Guys : Stu hit on a nother must.
 
I have side and rear hand rails, the few $$ it costs is well worth the convience/safety of having something to grab. 
The side rails are helpful getting ON and OFF and are essential going fwd and aft.  You can go from a dodger hand rail to a stay.  I just don't know of anyone that uses the hand rails on the deck. Those side rails also stiffen the dodger frame.

Once you have those side and aft rails, you almost kill youself on another boat that doesn't have them!

A few thoughts

[Roc]

This has been my thought....The forward bow that points back can be attached to the stern rail in two ways.  Either the whole bimini can be shifted back a couple inches.  When you use the frame attachments on both connection sides, they eat up some of that extra space, so the move back might only end up being only one inch or so.  I notice my bimini-dodger connector is not that tight, so there might be some room to move it back.  The other idea is to use a splice and connect a short piece of ss tubing to make up the slack.  Once that forward bow is attached (using an split side mount connector), the rear bow facing forward can be cut and attached to it.


http://www.sailrite.com/Split-Side-Mount-1-Stainless-Steel


Splicing:
This looks to be glued in

http://www.wagnercompanies.com/site/Viewer.aspx?iid=1490&mname=Article&rpid=537

These are mechanical splices with set screws

http://www.wagnercompanies.com/Double_Splice-Lock_Connector.aspx

http://www.wagnercompanies.com/Single_Splice-Lock_Mechanical_Connector.aspx

[Ron Hill]

Guys : Roc hit on another forgotten point. 
If you can, you are better off connecting the Bimini rails to the stern pulpit (pushpit).  It is a stronger attachment and leaves more open space for the helms man to get boat hooks etc. thru when docking.

A thought

[Stu Jackson]

Here are some more dodger flix:

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4998.0.html

[efhughes3]

Mine is 66" to top-perfect for my height to see over while standing or thru while sitting. Easy to duck under going thru companionway.