Traveler Failure If not thru bolted you want to do this

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Stu Jackson

Quote from: Bob Kuba on July 08, 2009, 04:12:30 PM
Stu,

I'll add a "Critical Updates" section for the Tech Notes Menu I'm building.
If you can send me some topics and links, I'll make sure they get added.

Bob

Bob,

I started one here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Stu Jackson

#16
Paul,  Thanks so much for your thoughtful reply.  We have responded to that idea and since I posted the "Critical Upgrades" topic (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html) last week, no one has added to it! Interesting.  I think the difference in your case may well be in either search terms used (traveler bolts, but traveler should have picked those topics up) or spelling (traveller vs. traveler). 

In the second link I found from the search I did in reply to this topic, as discussed in Reply #2 of this very topic, I quoted Dave Ewing who had written:  As it turned out it wasn't controlled enough as the port side traveler mount pulled out from its mounting tower, twisting the starboard bronze backing plate completely out through the fiberglass. The halyards that pass through the line organizers on the underside of the traveler were the only thing holding the whole assembly from flying into the air. We managed to lash down the boom to the cabin top winches and take down the main sail and regain control, but as you would say, "It really got our attention."

I'm not quite sure that that wasn't simply "a good $$" but rather something pretty important.  The links to the Knowledgebase have been discussed.

Your points are well taken, and we've responded as best we could to alert folks to issues, and, hopefully, the "Critical Upgrades" topic will help, too.  I've also modified the "Critical Upgrades" to add your suggestion of "Do This Or Else" - thanks again.

If there are any other "Critical Upgrades" that folks think are necessary, please feel free to add to that topic.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Oldlaxer1

I'm replacing my traveler track and upgrading the cars and blocks. During the installation I'm finally thru-bolting the traveler track.  I purchased the longer bolts (screws) and they measure about 10 1/2 inches.  I was planning on putting them thru the most outboard holes at both ends in the traveler track.  Has anyone drilled thru that hole and thru bolted?  I'm a little concerned the bolts may not be long enough.  How thick is the deck generally in that area?  I realize every layup may be a little different.  I'll be checking location using a trick a boat tech taught me of using two rare earth magnets on either side of the deck.  They will center up on each other even thru 3/4 to 1" thickness.
Thanks for the  input on the hole location.  BTW, I'm not trying to save the threads in the embedded plate. The threads on the bolts I got don't run the entire length so there is no need to save the threads on the insert. 
John
John Novotny
1987 C34 #298

Noah

1. Why are you replacing the track?
2. Bolts: It is my understanding that you only need the long through-bolts for each end of the track and that the rest of the bolts are short and thread into the aluminum plate that is " buried" in the traveller tower.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Oldlaxer1

#19
The PO purchased the incorrect traveler upgrade from Catalina Direct for the existing track. The new cars and ends didn't fit the old Nico Ficro track.  I got the new track from Garhauer. 
I'm not thru bolting all of the screws, just one on each side. My question is are 10 1/2 inch screws long enough to go thru the track, the riser and the deck at the most outboard existing screw hole?  The curvature of the deck makes that a pretty long penetration to get through the ceiling at that hole.   
John Novotny
1987 C34 #298

Stu Jackson

#20
Quote from: Oldlaxer1 on February 08, 2021, 05:43:41 AM
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During the installation I'm finally thru-bolting the traveler track.  I purchased the longer bolts (screws) and they measure about 10 1/2 inches.  I was planning on putting them thru the most outboard holes at both ends in the traveler track.  Has anyone drilled thru that hole and thru bolted?  I'm a little concerned the bolts may not be long enough.  How thick is the deck generally in that area?  I realize every layup may be a little different.  I'll be checking location using a trick a boat tech taught me of using two rare earth magnets on either side of the deck.  They will center up on each other even thru 3/4 to 1" thickness.
Thanks for the  input on the hole location.  BTW, I'm not trying to save the threads in the embedded plate. The threads on the bolts I got don't run the entire length so there is no need to save the threads on the insert. 
John

John,

In the first two links of mine in reply #1 on this thread, on page one, I wrote:

"My answer is to ADD the new bolts, and NOT use them to replace the old ones. "

Michael, yes I did that mod, but we used the existing Garhauer track.  My records show that I used the same "1/4-20 X 9 inch long flat head SS screw" from Catalina.   I did not have to remove the track, since I was using the existing one, so I was able to leave the existing two original screws (tapped into the molded in plate, most likely) in place.  I just drilled the two new holes with a very long drill bit I picked up at Ace Hardware through another bolt hole in the existing track inboard of the existing two screws.

I'm sure you've read those links, they have a lot of details of what I did.

That means they got installed (by me) on one of the more inside of the holes.  That seems it was because the outer two holes were the ones into the embedded track.  I do NOT know this for sure, only going with what I wrote over the years since I did the work in 1999!!! 

In looking at some pictures of when I rebedded the track in 2018, it appears I used two different holes, one three holes in, one four holes in, from the edge.  Those are the long bolts standing up in the pictures.  One shows the shorter screw laying on the flat.

I did that long-bolt work pre-digital cameras, so don't have jpegs of that original work.

In one of my writeups of the work, in one of those two links I included earlier here on page one, I noted where they came out on the port side, close by the bulkhead to the head.

My bolts were nine or nine and a half inches.  I don't know if a 10 1/2" bolt would work on the outermost hole.

What I would do is find out which of the holes actually have the embedded plate and do them inboard of that.  Instructions may also be in Jim Moe's original article, although IIRC his writeup was for a C30 but written for C34s also (he owned both boats or was in a club with both).

Good luck.  That's a neat trick you described.

I also encourage the use of butyl tape under the track.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Oldlaxer1

Well I'm going to try to go thru the outboard holes once the weather warms up enough to melt the snow and ice on the boat.  If the purchased screws turn out to not be long enough I have a plan B ready to go. I'll get some 1/4 20 316 stainless all thread 18" long from McMaster Carr and appropriate acorn nuts.  I'll counter bore the hole in the traveler deep enough to accept the acorn nut and then can cut the all thread to the proper length in the cabin.  I just wish it would warm up so I can complete this project.
John Novotny
1987 C34 #298