Messages

When I look in the bilge, all I see is a grey, anodized block that the mast step sits on.  I do not see any exposed wiring.  The block does have some flat head machine screws so I will explore further and report back.  Where do the wires come out of the bilge? By the holding tank? 

I'm installing a tricolor as I'm contemplating sailing to Mexico and I like the spotting range that a tricolor gives you in a seaway.   The Oregon Tri is a combination with an LED anchor light which switches back and forth by reversing the polarity.  I understand that Catalina combines this masthead ground with the deck/steaming light so I need to run a dedicated "ground" wire.  (This unit also has a strobe mode in the all-around white configuration).

I would like to install an Oregon Combination Tricolor at my mast head which will require some additional wires.  On the MkII boats, how does Catalina route wires from the power panel to the mast step?  I do not see any wires in the bilge area.  Is there a hidden conduit in the headliner?  How do I route these wires?

So the good news it is raining this winter in California.  The bad news is I discovered a leak in the aft stateroom that has run down the "ash" (?) paneling and discolored it. Has anybody removed this paneling to restore/refinish it?  If so what was the refinishing product and any helpful tips would be most appreciated.

I have thought about this but I'm a little concerned about winching up  100 – 150' of chain every few days for a year and what it would do to the drum.  Can someone who regularly winches chain give me a few thoughts and comments?

I see the need for a combination chain-rode windlass but unfortunately, I waited too long to buy the conversion kit so my options are somewhat limited.  I can: 1) Buy a used "combo" that has a burnt out motor and swap out the upper end with mine, 2) Trade my (slightly) used rode with someone who has a combo windlass or 3) Buy a new "combo" windlass and sell my rode model.  A new one is about two kilo buck$ so naturally, I'd like to limit this unforeseen expense.  Anyone want to buy an all rode VC500?  Hardly been used (San Francisco Bay boat and I anchor a very little).

I'm planning on going down to Mexico this fall and people have been telling me that all chain is the way to go but when I get back home I want to get the added weight off the bow and go back to my chain and rode.  I am worried that my 40' of 5/16 chain and 250' of 5/8 rode isn't the right combo for the Baja.

Sadly, I'm all the way across country - Alameda, Ca (Near San Francisco).  Shipping the tubing would be cost prohibitive and I recently had my dodger remade so I'd be looking at the the Bimini piece only.

Are these the very dark "navy blue" (solid color) or the "royal blue" (has the dark trace thread making it darker than the old "pacific blue").  I might entertain buying the bimini alone, without the frame.

A dock neighbor of mine did that to his C34 MkII.  He put spacers under the winches so they would stand up straight and not be angled outwards.  I installed a set of secondary's 15 inches aft of my primaries.  I went with Lewmar 40s instead of the more common 30's (with using them as an occasional jib winch in mind).  The coaming in that area is solid fiberglass and I backed them with a plate of ¼ inch of G-10. Port side installation is pretty straight forward (you will need to cut the bolts flush so they won't snag on things in the lazarette.  On starboard, you need to cut in a Beckson port for access.  But you will still have to split the backing plate to get it through the hole.  Tightening those nuts is no joy either.  The underneath surface of the coaming is ill regular so I used thickened epoxy to fill in and avoid point loading.

The downside is you will be restricted to 8" winch handles.  I think one of the reasons my neighbor raised his was so the winch handle would go between the two lifelines.  I use mine mostly on light days and when I'm being lazy.  When the wind is up I go back to the 44's and 10" winch handle for better leverage.  If you work the positioning correctly, you can still get a pretty fair lead if you are cross-sheeting.

Roc, I think there is a setting on the Autohelm where you can increase the tacking angle.  Mine has no problem on tacking through a 90 degree arc.

I received an email from Will Vrooman of Maxwell saying they no longer  produce a conversion kit to go from the rode to the chain combo windlass (P/N P71379) and to purchase the parts separately would exceed the cost of a new winch.  A quick comparison of the drawings and parts lists indicate that everything from the bearing and locknut on up would need replacing (about 19 parts).  Would anyone like to trade a combo for an all rode windlass?

Engine Distributors has a website, www.EDI-Dist.com, but it doesn't have a parts section.  Does this mean that parts can only be ordered over the phone?  Where can I get a Kubota Parts List for an M-35B?

Andre, I too, am interested in the Katadin 40.  Have you started your design/engineering work yet?  I am interested to know how you plan on installing the unit, and if you are going to use an existing thru hull or planning to add one.  I have a MkII boat and can't decide if it should be mounted under the head sink or in the stern, behind the aft water tank.

So, my hatches are already crazed.  Has anyone replaced the damaged hatch lens, and if so, how?  Or am I resigned to spending big bucks at Lewmar?  I was hoping that I could sand with 400 - 600 grit and then polish from there.   

Does anyone have a solution to the crazing on the newer ports and hatches?  I was wondering if one of those headlight restoring kits would do the trick.  I'm not wild about spending the big bucks to replace the lenses.

We us 8mm T-900 on Freya (metric equivalent to 3/8).  If you plan on using something "stretchy" such as Sta-Set X, I would go with the 7/16.