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My Truecharge 20i appears to have bit the big one.  I have shore power to the unit but, the batteries arn't getting charged nor do the led lights are on.  Is there an internal fuse or something?  The original manual has nothing and web searches turned up little useful information (lots of technical wonky stuff about replacing individual components on the circuit card) .  What would be a good replacement?  I have the Xantrex Link 1000 battery monitor and been thinking of their charger/inverter as it would take advantage of all the Links functions and capabilities, but I'm open to better ideas.

My ST4000+ control head will no longer switch to Auto mode.  When I press the "Auto" key, the screen will momentarily display "4000 WHL" at the top then switches back to standby mode.  In standby mode it doesn't display rudder direction indicator at the bottom of the screen either. It does show the same heading as the chart plotter.  I have the fast heading sensor and rudder reference unit installed.  Worked perfectly for years.  It passed the functional, operating sense and Seatalk interface tests.  It does the same "4000 WHL" display error when I do the wind transducer interface test.  I also cannot find the Dockside Rudder Calibration Screen in the set-up menu.  How do I fix this?

I've been reading up on other ST4000+ failures and I'm not very hopeful.  If I must replace with the EV-100, does this mean I have to replace the fluxgate compass and fast heading sensor too? 

I have a Universal M35B (600 hours) with a 120 Amp Amptech alternator and a 3 Blade Flex-o-fold (15X9 pitch) propeller.  My fuel economy has been a mediocre .6 -.65 gal per hour.  I was wondering if going to a smaller alternator or going to a different prop pitch will improve my fuel economy.  I noticed that a lot of boats use 100A alternators, but if I'm using solar (200 watts and counting), perhaps something smaller, like 80 or 90 amps might be more appropriate.  Our MkII boats have a ridiculously small fuel tank and I looking for ways to improve cruising range.

On a related note:  Recently I overfilled my fuel tank and had fuel leak out the sending unit's gasket when we had a string of hot days.  Can I use Permatex gasket sealer rated for fuel?  My tank is polypropylene and not metal. 

I would like to install an Oregon Combination Tricolor at my mast head which will require some additional wires.  On the MkII boats, how does Catalina route wires from the power panel to the mast step?  I do not see any wires in the bilge area.  Is there a hidden conduit in the headliner?  How do I route these wires?

So the good news it is raining this winter in California.  The bad news is I discovered a leak in the aft stateroom that has run down the "ash" (?) paneling and discolored it. Has anybody removed this paneling to restore/refinish it?  If so what was the refinishing product and any helpful tips would be most appreciated.

I am looking for the builder of the "factory" Biminis for the C34 and C36 MkII boats.  I like their "fold up" feature and the zip over cover.  I would rather buy one of these standard pattern ones than go the custom route.

Does anyone know the size of the O-rings on the Raymarine ST60 speed transducer "bung"?  My O-rings somehow came off and I have nothing to measure.  I am also thinking about replacing the larger diameter ring that is higher up on both the bung and transducer. From my internet search, I only found a paddlewheel rebuild kit from Binnacle.com ($36.95)

On a related note:  On the MkII boats, is there supposed to be a weep hole from under the v-berth to the bilge?  Normally this is not a problem as it is easy to sponge up water leftover from swapping the transducer.  But now, with my O-ring problem, the water is in danger of flowing over the cabin sole on its way to the bilge.

Does anyone know the correct Edson part number and size for the Radial Drive Wheel (quadrant) used on the Mk II boats?  One of my many projects is to install a rudder sensor and I need to know the correct geometry.  My plan so far is to use the extra two threaded bolt holes to mount a cover plate that will have the ball socket that will connect to the sensor via a rod.  I'm mounting the sensor itself to the underside of the deck on the Stb. Side of the rudder post.  With the transverse mounted water tank and all the other wires and cables, there isn't much room to work but my preliminary survey indicates that it should work with a little modification.

How does everyone rig jack lines?  When I rig from bow to stern cleat, the line goes over a portion of cabin roof (Mk II boat) which puts some slack in the line.  Routing outside the shrouds keeps tension but seems to be less desirable as you have to go outside the shroud to go forward.  Also, to keep the jack line inside of the jib sheets, I have to route it inside of the fair leads.  Will this have a tendency to jam the fair lead?