Messages

Do you think it's easier to tap the mast and install the  track with the mast up or down on saw horses?

Mark,

I installed a 1.25" x 6' track a couple of years ago for my whisker pole.  I don't see the need for 1.5" track.  I purchased the track from Garhauer and had them make me a ring car for it as well.  Very solid work and way less expensive than anyone else.  I went with 6' for a few reasons: 1) I wasn't planning on storing my pole on the mast (if you planning to store it on the mast, it will be much easier to install a much longer track to allow you to slide the mast end of the pole up the mast while affixed to the car and then secure the outboard end to the base of the mast or a chock on deck right in front of the mast); 2) 6' more than covered the range of sails I expected to pole out (you'll want the pole in a horizontal position when in use, so consider how high your various headsail clews are); and 3) I installed it myself when the mast was stepped so I wanted to limit the number of tappings and the height of the work.  Since then, I've decided I do, in fact, want to store the pole on the mast, so I am regretting that I didn't install a longer track originally.  Instead, I flip the usual process and lower the car with the inboard end of the pole attached and then swing the outboard end up to a mast ring I installed up the mast.  The process is cumbersome and even using the topping lift to guide the end, this is tough and not viable in any significant seas.  I don't recommend it, and it is only a stopgap measure for me.  I will change to a longer track when I next pull the stick.  Hope that helps.

Mert

Thanks everyone!

Any plumbing wizards out there that can tell me why my hot water tank starts dumping water out of the indicated hose when I try and charge the water system?  Its a steady stream out of the rear valve/black hose. Any help would be appreciated.  I'm really dumb with this stiff.  Pics attached.
Scott

Can someone tell me if this fix works on a newer 2003 MKII?   My main issue isn't so much the noise but the fact that my hatch will stick and not want to open if it's cold outside and I have a heater running inside.  Any kind of temperature variable locks down the hatch.   

I put in the T 125 Trojan batteries and the T 105 are the same height.  Thought the T 145 were to tall.  Might check the height of these.
Paul

There was plenty of space in my Mk II for the T 145's. They are less than an inch taller than the T 125's.

Because they run off the 12 V system, and you removed the batteries!!

Is your question  "Why isn't my shore charger powering the panel?"?

k

Yes..  I thought the panel was powered by shore power once hooked up? I know its a dumb question but I just bought the boat and my previous c&c27 was never hooked up to any shore power.

On the hard hooked up to shore power. I have removed the batteries.  The only thing I can power are the outlets. How come features like the bilge pump on the breaker panel are not getting any power?

Thanks.  I was actually curious if one would stand up to not being used for long periods of time over the other?

Jeremy's right.  Any battery will last longer if fully charged and then left to rest.  Continuous "float" charging is not necessarily good for batteries, hence, the newer chargers can actuallly cycle themselves.

No difference between deep cycle and starting types.

You may want to refresh your research by going over the Electrical Systems 101 topic and reading the Ample Power Primer (link provided in that topic).  It discusses basic battery operation and how you can best keep them healthy and long lasting.

What is the go to charger today that passes everyone's test? 

Oh, almost forgot. The "spare" was a type 31. It does fit into that starboard space beside the HW tank (at least for us). There is a bit of juggling when building the shelf. Too low and its not wide enough, too high and there is no room for the battery height and the terminal connections. I do a lot of figuring out with card board mock-ups.

Thanks Fred!

I second Jon's comment regarding Fred's work. I don't see, though, an answer posted to the original Q of whether a starting battery is preferred over a deep cycle type.  That answer is that a starting type is definitely the right one for your application. It will give you more starting omph for a given size.

Jeremy

Note: Starting-type batteries are optimized for max short-term cranking amps (using a higher number of thinner plates to maximize surface area). Deep discharge batteries have a smaller number of thicker plates and handle repeated deep discharge better.

Thanks.  I was actually curious if one would stand up to not being used for long periods of time over the other? 

Once the tray was in place, I lined the bottom with rubber and the edges with flexible wire casing. Because the form was built up from cardboard replicas of the battery foot print, they fit in nice and snug, without any wiggle room.

Four (4) D-bolts, two in the floor plate and two in the galley bulkhead acted as anchor points for tie down straps.

Wow!  You're hired. How much to get you to 1000 Islands to do the exact sme thing for me
You could sell those trays;).  Thank you for posting all of those great pictures.  I would love to see the shelf you built for the fifth outer battery. I'm not the handiest of wood workers so I love copying other peoples good ideas. 

A couple of questions.  Why did you remove the wood divider between the main bank and water heater?  Also, why did you feel the need to upgrade chargers? 

Like you, I'm in Toronto and my boat is 2.5 hours away so it gets tough to get these projects done.

Thanks for your advice.
Scott

I have searched all over and have yet to find an answer. I'm sure it's out there and I risk getting scolded but I'm asking anyway.   Upgrading batteries to 4 6v Trojan T 145's. I plan on keeping my 1-2-both switch factory set for now and will not run alt directly to main bank.  I need to buy a small emergency battery (starting battery).  Because I plan on using the main bank for everything, including starting, should my back up be a small "starting" battery or a small "deep cycle" battery.  The smaller the better as I may try and fit it on the Starboard side of the water heater.   Is group 24 too small if it's just a backup to get the engine running?

Excuse the dirt you see in the picture. The boat is brand new to me and needs a good cleaning.

Here is a picture showing my little 2hp Honda.  Don't see that you could mount a motor lower.  Think the only thing to be concerned with is if you were in a rough sea.  Then you may see stress where the rail attaches to the fiberglass.  Only real problem with the aft seats is that the pushpit can get crowded, life sling, outboard motor, gps antena, MOB pole, and grill.
Are you in Toronto or the 1000 islands?  Just wondering.
Jim

I think they changed the stern rail sometime after your model year.  At least on the port side they added an outer lower.

Here is a picture showing my little 2hp Honda.  Don't see that you could mount a motor lower.  Think the only thing to be concerned with is if you were in a rough sea.  Then you may see stress where the rail attaches to the fiberglass.  Only real problem with the aft seats is that the pushpit can get crowded, life sling, outboard motor, gps antena, MOB pole, and grill.
Are you in Toronto or the 1000 islands?  Just wondering.
Jim

Live in Toronto but the boat is in 1000 Islands. We drive 2+ hours to sail down there.

Congrats on the new boat! Perhaps a dumb question, but have you checked that your motor will mount/fit between the pushpit rails with the mounting on the lower rail?

Good question.... I bought the boat in September and had it shipped 700 km in October so it's been on a cradle since;(. I guess I will find out in the spring!  It's going to be a long winter waiting to use this beauty!