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Messages - Stucker

#1
Mystery fuel leak 2003 MKII Plastic tank

So I had a fuel leak this past weekend.    I was making a 150 mile trip between Kingston and Toronto Ontario.   Before leaving I filled the tank so full that it came out of overflow valve on transom (not intentional).   I started my trip with two hours of motoring before sailing on a port tack with some waves and 15 knots of wind.   After several hours of sailing I noticed that some diesel ha been leaking out of tank.   Because of the healing angle some of the diesel ended up traversing corner of the aft wall to underneath aft cabin and along the side of the prop shaft and ended up coming out the side of engine compartment onto aft cabin floor.   I inspected all hoses and everything looks intact and tight.  My best guess is that the diesel might be coming out of gasket under fuel valve at top of tank?   After cleaning and inspecting I did not have any more leaks once I burned off another 30 litres of fuel (7 gal?).  seems like a full tank issue.   I have attached pics.   Red indicates the area the diesel came out from behind the wood access covers.

Any tips on trying to trouble shoot and find the leak?  My thought was to try and fill again to max levels and recreate the problem by going for a sail on a port tack, this time with no bedding and cushions to soak it up.  Then I can be down there and see it happen.  Is this a bad idea?  It's a plastic tank.  Would love to know what you would do. 

There is always something  :shock:
#2
Thought I would share my experience replacing the mast step on my 2003 MkII.   Removing the three bolts around the step was challenging thanks to the aft bolt that was pretty much seized.   Catalina Direct no longer stocks the mast step for an in mast furling MKII.   After a call to Catalina they told me to try Sparcraft in North Carolina.   Sparcraft were great to work with and found the the part ($200 USD) but informed me that it would have to be cut in order to fit the halyard plate.  Catalina modified the part when they were building the boats.   They offered to cut the step and have it re-anodized for an extra $400 USD.  They also wanted to me to ship my old step down from Canada so they could match the holes that were added after Catalina modified the original.  I decided I could do it for less.    I just ordered the part and found a custom welder in Toronto that could cut the corners and drill the holes on the new part.  I also had them rebuild the old one (as a backup).   I then had the 2 steps stripped and anodized here in Toronto.   The welder was able to rebuild the old one but you will notice that the rebuilt area turned black after anodizing.  I was warned that this would happen.   It cost me $300CDN total to modify the new and rebuild the old including anodizing.  It sure looks like the old one had some serious corrosion around the bolt holes which must have played a role in how it cracked.   I wonder if Catalina skipped the anodizing after they reshaped and drilled the step or if it was just the reaction between the aluminum and stainless bolts?  Between the new and the backup I'm hoping I'm covered for the rest of my time with the boat.   

#3
There are 4 bolts going through.  The picture looks wonky on here.  One bolt is hidden under wires and you can see the aft bolt if you look closely.




Quote from: KWKloeber on October 17, 2020, 08:13:10 AM
WAIT. huh?
I just took a close look at your pics. Why did CTY not use the inner holes??
Is there something specific to the 34 where they could not be lagged.   That's the typical way to mount a step and I see is how the step that CD has is mounted.
What am I missing?
#4
Wondering your thoughts on continuing to use a mast step that has a crack under one of the 4 bolts?   The replacement has to be modified to fit and also needs new holes drilled.  I wish it was as easy as buying a new one and swapping it out. 
#5
Pardon my ignorance, what is G10 and where would one go to have it milled into a replica? Also, is it costly?     I have thought cutting the corners on their replacement would be easier?
Scott





Quote from: Hypermon on October 14, 2020, 06:08:52 PM
Scott, I am including pics of the original manufacturers(Sparcraft) mast step, and the one that was removed from my boat. Rather than modify a new one it was decided was to mill a complete new step from a piece of g10. Unfortunately, I don't have a pic of it and the boat has regrettably been sold. Sure do miss her. Steve
#6
I just noticed the same problem on my 2003 MKII mast step.  Was it easy to order a new piece?
Scott




Quote from: Hypermon on September 16, 2019, 05:45:25 PM
Just wondering if anyone with in mast furling has had problems with factory mast step cracking. Mine has cracked at both bolt holes. I sent photos to the mast and step manufacturer, and was told the step as manufactured has four bolt holding it in place. Mine has been modified....I assume by Catalina at manufacture. Cut marks are clearly seen on the step itself. Catalina tech rep said he has not heard of any problems on the 34's. Would be grateful to hear and see what experience and fixes others have had.
#7
I suspect the PO of my boat let the windless do all the heavy lifting instead of the boat.  My motor is almost completely fried.  Looking to buy a replacement as I opened it up and it's likely beyond a rebuild.   Has anyone upgraded their windless and has a spare vw500 motor for the model which includes the 1/4 inch chain gypsy? 
PM me if you do.
#8
Thanks Ken,
You bring up some good points.  I'm pretty new to drilling holes in my boat.    I had planned to use the 4200 to seal around the outside fitting But thanks for the reminder of the benefit of butyl tape.  I will def go that route.   I was under the impression that epoxy potting was for filling existing holes when resealing existing fittings.   I guess the idea for doing it would be to create a threaded almost air tight hole for the new screws?  I believe it's just one layer of glass and gelcoat without any void as it's unfinished on the inside but I'm not 100%. I was going to add a layer of epoxy over the  wood before install and then the metal backing plate after it was dry.  I just figured this would be a more solid backing than just the stainless plate?  Is this overkill when you already have a stainless plate?   Again, I'm pretty knew at this kind of install hence the post looking for guidance. 


Quote from: KWKloeber on June 23, 2020, 07:13:36 PM
scott

Admittedly I am ignorant of the transom construction -- is it solid or an inner/outer skin? (mine on the 30 has a void)

Other than that it sounds like a fair plan, though not sure where you propose to use the Devil's adhesive?  Between the ply and fiberglass, not on the backing plate (I hope.) 
I'd use butyl on the topside (after properly epoxy potting and countersinking the holes of course.) 
Ply would be epoxy sealed?



-ken
#9
Would love input into the best way to mount my new engine lift to the transom.  I was thinking of the plate at the bottom of the pole directly to the fibreglass and then piece of  plywood between fibreglass and backing plate on the inside.  4200 before tightening up.  Would love to hear if you had a better plan?  The end of the mop handle indicates where I plan to install the base.  Lifting a 2 stroke 9.9 so there will be a good 80 lbs on it while operating.   The other end of the lift has a mounting bracket on the stern rail.
#10
Even though the Sherwood 9000K impeller looks identical to my current impeller, it won't go on the shaft? From everything I've read, this is the right size for a 2003 era M35B. Has anyone else had this experience?  Do they ever screw up the sizing and put out bad products?
#11

Hey Dale,
My main sail rolls in and out quite nicely so I haven't felt the need to adjust anything.  I'll keep an eye on it though.   I have a Phantom 4 Pro drone.  I only got it at the end of the sailing season so I look forward to flying it a lot more this season.  Keep in mind that you will want to know about updating your home point and turning off collision avoidance if you fly it from a moving boat! 
S



Quote from: Dale Stone on February 27, 2019, 09:34:29 AM
Hi Scott,
Love the video, saw the whole thing. Nice family and great vacation_sailing area. I have the same boat, furling main and all. I noticed your main outhaul car was more forward than mine. I adjusted mine back to ease the roll out. I think it helped but have only one season on her.

I'm thinking of a drone as well and noticed how you snatched yours. Nice job!

What drone did you get?

Thanks
Dale
#12
Quote from: Dave Spencer on February 03, 2019, 05:35:22 PM
Very nice.  I love the Optimist Dinghy sailing.  Wow, a C34 and a CS34 in the same family.  The CS was high on our list of boats when we ended up buying our Catalina 34 as we had a CS27 previously.  Well built boats ahead of their time.

Yes, the CS34 is a well built boat.  They have a great stand up shower in the head. My MKII feels twice as big in the cockpit and inside though.  And I'm a little faster 😜
#13
Just wanted to see if anyone has installed a Raritan PH Superflush with the larger household bowl in a Mark II?  The price is close to the same as the compact model so I would love a larger seat if the option was there? 

Scott
#14
Quote from: glennd3 on February 01, 2019, 06:10:26 PM
Nice video, any smallmouth bass?

Yes.. small and large. Also a big Muskie fishing area.
#15
I usually cut a yearly video of my summer sailing in 1000 Islands Ontario/NY State and fall in Toronto.  Thought I would share in case some members wanted to see what the area is like.  Note, this is a family video so you will have to sit through the odd shot of some of my family members.  I ended up buying a drone at the end of The season which is why there is limited drone footage.  The other boat is my brother's CS34

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YklsncqrO5Q

Scott