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Catalina Direct has custom made Stainless Steel caps that retro-fit our plastic (winch handle) tank covers.

http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/4150_752/deck-pipe-cap-diesel-stainless-steel.cfm

I ordered the Diesel tank cap with haste, as it seemed that it would protect from water.  I received the cap and took it to the boat to install.  Very nice quality cap, but oops... my boat was already upgraded to the "deck key" style fill.  I guess that's what I get for not using very much fuel. 

Anyway, would anyone like to take this very nice stainless steel diesel tank fill cover off my hands?

$40 delivered.

I was able to return the bracket, so no loss on my part.  I was able to buy the materials for the wooden one for less than half of what the plastic one was.  I figure the labor is probably about the same to make new or alter old.  We'll see how it goes.  Thanks for the tip though.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I think I will attempt to make this... see pic... out of two pieces of 3/4" Red Oak sandwiched together.

Thanks, Jon. Your photo did not post, but I get what your saying.  My concern is supporting an 80lb outboard and not having to re make it every few years. I leaning toward buying the "cheaper" two-rail mount, but have not ruled out making one out of star-board, if I can find a small piece of 3/4.

Found these 3 styles... Bracket 1 is cheaper than the Edson bracket (2) and doesn't require a "T" rail (3)

The T cutout inside the mount did not line up with the rail.  The top rail was at an angle.  What brand Mount did you use?  Did you have to cut out the slots to make it fit?

I just bought a new outboard and need to find a mounting bracket for the rail.  I have a 1989 MKI and an 81 lb motor (9.9HP). I tried the plastic bracket (for 8HP) from WM and it didn't fit due to the "T rail" not being square. Do most people custom make their brackets? I refuse to pay Edson $300+.

Thanks

Rob

You might be able to do it without lifting the engine at all .

Back off the top and bottom nuts of one of the mounts - then, using a allen key, unscrew and remove the threaded shaft from the mount.  Remove the lags holding the base of the mount.  Then, having previously removed the threaded shaft of the K75,  secure the base of the K75 to the boat with the lags.  Insert the shaft through the bracket, screw on the bottom nut, then screw the shaft to the mount base.  Adjust the nuts to about where they were.   I would recommend you re-align the shaft after you complete the installation.

What is the trick to unscrewing the threaded shaft? i can't get them to move (mounted 50's or unmounted 75's)

The switch turns my house loads on and off.  I will eventuality put my reserve battery back on.  Just need to find place to mount it.  Nothing fancy though; will led to the "B" switch and charged with Echo Charger.

I have a lot to do to get my system up to speed.  Took 5 years on my last boat, then i sold it. Boat Owner's Blues.

Thank you for the replys.  I have only motored for 10 minutes to move boat from boat yard to slip. I did have quite a lot of "ticking" as I slowed to idle. I will do more "sea trial" before committing.

Paul,

Thanks.  This is the type of information I am lacking.  I do plan on changing all terminals.  They are almost certain to be original 1989 wiring.

[The charge cable goes direct to a fused (150A) battery terminal.]

Rob,

The orange charge wire is just making a second connection to the battery cables. 

Before saying "trash it".....

Where does the heavy charge cable go to.....  Battery selector switch?   Directly to a battery terminal? 

The charge cable goes direct to a fused (150A) battery terminal.

What's your battery set up?  2 batteries, running through the selector switch?  A separate starting/reserve battery?

I currently have one bank of four 6V T-105's, run to the "A" selector switch.  No Reserve at the moment.

What is the other red? orange? wire on the alt?  Is that on the tach signal (A/C output) terminal?

Yes, I believe the other smaller orange wire goes to the Tach.

Do you still have the gummy bear plug or did the PO remove it?  Did PO crimp the ends together or use the terminal strip "fix."?

No more Gummies.  PO used white plastic terminal strip to "fix." Same with panel end.

A few other things -

1. the cabling on the solenoid "B" (battery) terminal is completely back-asswards.  The heaviest cable/lug must be against the power source (eg, battery terminal) or destination (starter solenoid) followed by successively lighter loads, wiuth the lightest on top (ie, under the nut.)

I actually realized that when I put the battery cable back on. I had removed to redo the lug.

2. There should be lockwashers under both nuts.

Thanks, I never knew that.  Should they be on battery terminals, too?

3. If you have a barrel fuse holder on the solenoid "S" wire (yellow/red).  Remove it (it is useless and causes non-start problems) and butt crimp the ends together.

I didn't notice any fuse holders, but I will re-examine.  Thanks.

4. The "S" wire appears to be the 'old' OEM 16 gauge wire.  This contributes to non-start problems and should be 10 gauge.

5.  Your red power wire to the panel is not fused, not ABYC compliant, and a fire hazard.

What size fuse is recommended? Should this be at the starter end or the panel end?

6. The "S" wire quick disconnect (push-on) terminal end might be corroded and contributing to non-start problems - they also loosen and can fall off.  Remove, crimp on a tinned terminal, lightly coated with dielectric grease (better yet) replace the solenoid with a screw-post-type "S" terminal that won't fall off.

Will do.  Thanks.

-ken

I have read just about every engine mount thread I can find, but I have not found this answer.  If I need to switch the rear mounts to K75's (K50's all around now), do I need to loosen the front mounts to raise the rear of the engine?

Rob

Sorry, I wasn't clear.  I taped the wire off because it was connected to the wrong place.  It was not extra before I had engine work done.

Finally got pictures. First is the starter.  The wire in question is the "big" orange wire.

The second picture is the alternator. The Orange wire is shown next to the output (it is taped off and not actually attached).  It was connected allong with the big red cable that runs to the battery - not right.  Any idea where it is supposed to go?

Also, "hard starting" means that I would need glow plugs to start engine hot or cold and the engine would barely turn over.  I traced the problem to the battery cable from 1-2-B to starter.  Bad terminals.