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Messages - Ron Hill

#6841
Main Message Board / Re: Broken storage slider handle
December 24, 2008, 11:03:59 AM
Brian : Back in 1997/98 there's an article in the C34 Mainsheet tech notes about the side sliders.  The author used ash battoning (contact cement) on the black plastic sliders.  It not only strengthend the sliders where the handle attaches, but it also lightens up the interior( much more that you'd think!!).
Did the same to mine and love it. 
#6842
Main Message Board / Re: Honda EU1000 & Trucharge 40
December 23, 2008, 05:26:47 PM
Steve : Only an imprudent person lets his batteries discharge more than necessary!  I never let mine go below a usage of 75 amp hours.  The less you let the batteries discharge before recharging, the more cycles you'll get out of them. 
I may be stingy (called Capt AmpMister by my crew), but overnight I seldom go below 40 amp hours.  That's with the fridge 24/7 and normal cabin/anchor lights with some TV.  I do have a couple of solar panels that will kick in in the morning.  I will crank up the Honda 1000 if we are going to stay in that anchorage for a second night. 
Take care of your batteries and they will take care of you!!  A thought
#6843
Ronnie : Check with your local Kubota dealer and get a cost.  I believe that the D850 engine was in the B7000 or B7100 tractor.  The dealer may even have a used head?
Good Luck with your earlier than 1987,  C36. 
#6844
Steve : There have been numerous articles on checking the rudder and fixing it!!!  If you've ever seen rusty water weeping from the rudder during winter layup - that's a tel tail sign.
For a short reply, here's what I recommend you do:
1.  Remove the emergency tiller cap.  If the stainless column has water in it (more than just condensation) you've got water in the core.
2.  Drill a few holes in the lower half of the rudder itself.  If water seeps out - you know what that means!!

I'd check with Catalina on the rudder pricing because I don't know where you got "between 25 & 30K $"?
There have been a number of C34 owners that have replaced their rudder for about $1500.  You need to check the factory's current pricing.  Good Luck

#6845
Keith : If your hull # is 431, I'll guess that you have a M25XP engine that has a D950 Kubota engine block.
Look at out web site and you'll find a complete Kubota D950 parts manual in a pdf file.  Make yourself a CD of that manual - that's what I did.  Just remember the information is good for the block only.  Other items like raw water pump, transmission, etc. were added by Universal.
There will NEVER be any reference to a marine version of that D950 engine in any Kubota info!! 
#6846
Main Message Board / Re: Lewmar V1 Windlass on Sale!
December 19, 2008, 06:47:47 PM
Guys & Susan : Just remember that the amount of weight that your windlass must lift is the:
1.  Weight of the anchor (nominally 35lbs) plus
2.  Weight of the road when the boat is directly over the anchor (10' to 15' of chain or about 15 lbs)

You don't break out the anchor with the windlass nor "kedge off" with the windlass.  If you happen to have a drum, then you might consider lifting someone to the top of the mast.  A few thoughts
#6847
Main Message Board / Re: Lewmar V1 Windlass on Sale!
December 18, 2008, 07:54:35 PM
Rick : You have your work cut out for you.  That's a great price!!!  I've got a few things to point out and do NOT mean to be a "wet blanket or rain on your parade", but point out a few items.

You asked me in a separate Email about the size wire of #2 or #0!!!  I now know why that size wire is required.  That windlass has one hell of a power draw.  That's why it has a 90amp breaker (the V700 has a 35 amp breaker & uses #4 wire).  I'll guess why:
1.  It's a MUCH stronger motor than the V700
2.  It looks like the motor is horizontal to the vertical windlass head.  This means that the drive changes 90 degrees (requiring a gear and or universal ie. transmission) which requires more power and that's why the unit by itself (motor + head) weighs 36lbs!
3.  The vertical windlass I chose has a vertical motor connected directly to the vertical gypsy head.
4.  The V700 is self contained and all sealed from water, so the motor hanging down in the anchor well is  open and need no enclosure.  You'd better check if your V1 motor needs to be in-closed or can it be open?  Ask the question?  If it does, do you have the space in your anchorwell (built-in enclosure like Ken's) to house the motor inside and still have space on top for the head on that enclosure top.  What about the angle of pull ref. the bow roller.  You need a straight pull along to the axis of the bowroller .
5.  Remember the chain from the gypsy exit needs to fall straight down or use a chain haus (sp?)
6.  I found that the switch Lewmar provided would never survive the anchor well environment and had to get a self contained  "up" switch that would.
7.  Your V1 uses HT (G4) 5/16" chain (1lb/ft).  I opted for 1/4" HT (G4 ) chain (3/4 lb/ft).  It's less in weight so I can use more chain with out that weight decrement.

I'm not criticizing, but just pointing out to other readers that they better do the geometry before they spring for this super pricing deal.  
I screwed around for about 15 years (on&off) with a windlass installation.  Talked to Gerry Douglass and David Graas many times.  They sent me the information an the 1989 C34 anchor well and the factory windlass installation.  Quit frankly I was disappointed in the information that they sent to me.  I'm sure they must have sent better info to you.
I'll be interested in your final installation and if you need any "how did I do mine", I'll be glad to assist.  Ron
#6848
Main Message Board / Re: Honda EU1000 & Trucharge 40
December 16, 2008, 05:12:07 PM
Steve : If you want to see if you and get the 2000 into the port side lazerette, here's an idea.  Make yourself a cardboard box the same size of a Honda 2000 and try it.  Then move that "box" around the boat an see what the other storage looks like.
BTW, You'll also burn more fuel and make more noise than with a 1000.  Can your crew handle the  heavier 2000 and get it started ? 
A few thoughts
#6849
Main Message Board / Re: Honda EU1000 & Trucharge 40
December 14, 2008, 06:17:24 PM
Rick : Just make sure that your batteries are discharged - so you have a valid test.  A thought
#6850
Main Message Board / Re: Re-torquing keel bolts
December 14, 2008, 06:13:46 PM
Hawk : The exact spec (I used 107 ft lbs) isn't that important.  The special socket is that it usually has to be 4 inches deep to fit over the keel bolt.  I made a T-bar (see Projects) and usually one can't over torque. 
The most important thing about torque is that all of the nuts are all torqued to the same tightness !! 
#6851
Main Message Board / Re: A Test
December 14, 2008, 06:02:16 PM
Steve : There's an old aviator saying : There are old pilots and there are bold pilots, but there are NO old bold pilots!!     
Have fun, as I've got a wall full of medals and don't need any more!! 
#6852
Cook : Look around the outside of that propane locker for (as I recall ) for 2 black wires.  If you pull (gently on them) and there is some give - you've found them.  Sorry I can't be of more help.   
#6853
Main Message Board / Re: Winter cover
December 13, 2008, 06:07:11 PM
Guys : I envy you with "power".  Around the Chesapeake it usually starts out with a mix.  The freezing rain with snow later is a killer on any cover, because it sticks!!  Be happy with 63 inches of just snow!! 
#6854
Rick : You'd better check out that Lewmar V1 and find out why there's "such a good deal" !!! 
I see that they are selling the one I installed (V700) for almost $200 more??  Also I couldn't find out whether it's a complete kit (+ breaker & switch) or not.
Also you'd better figure out the geometry of a vertical windlass installation, as your anchor well was made for a horizontal windlass.  A few thoughts!!
#6855
Main Message Board / Re: Re-torquing keel bolts
December 13, 2008, 05:39:15 PM
Mark : You remember just the opposite!!  The boat MUST be on land, so the weight is off of the keel. 
Otherwise you'd be trying to crank up a 5600 lb(C34 wing) keel with a socket??? 
I was surprised on the number of turns that some of the nuts needed!!  I believe it's just good insurance.  I don't believe it's one of those maintenance items that needs to be checked more than once - twice at the most!  A thought