Messages

Tom : There's no reason that you can't do a repair like Stu did. 
You might use some 5 minute epoxy which sets up much faster than the Marine Tex.  That way you can build it up with a few layers and then use Marine Tex as the final.  Just make sure to you don't increase the diameter too much larger than 1 5/8" and that tube is smooth and symmetrical when you're finished.
If you don't have a single hump hose now is the time to install one. 
The hump hose takes up the vertical shock so that tube on the inlet of the muffler doesn't take the shock.  A few thoughts.

Ken : The HBW 100 and the ZF10 are one in the same.  That xmission comes in a couple of gear ratios - I'll guess that yours is the 1:1.8 ratio. 

Guys : The restriction of the wire for the life lines is the diameter of the sewage fitting going thru the the stanchions NOT the diameter of the wire itself!   The grommets thru the stanchions are 3/8" that's why you can't use your old rigging 1/4" wire from the inner stays because the sewage is just slightly larger than 3/8"!  
There are many sizes of wire between the normal 3/16" vinyl coated and a sewage that will go thur the 3/8" grommet.  
Even 7/32" bare wire is cheaper than the vinyl coated 3/16".  BTW, All of the off shore boat ARE required to use bare not vinyl coated life line wire.
 
Sure acetone or Jon's MEK will clean the vinyl, it the fact that with bare wire there is NO cleaning and NO hidden corrosion.  A few thoughts.   
 

Craig : Suck the water up to the raw water pump with a "Par Boy" pump or attach an extra piece of hose and literally suck.  Then shut off the thru hull so the water stays in the line, put thumb over the hose and reattach to the inlet of the raw water pump.  Turn on the thru hull and you're good to go. 
This was one of my Mainsheet Tips from 12 or 15+ years ago. 

It's always a good idea to suck the raw water up to the pump and fill the intale line after you change out an impeller.  It's also much easier on the pump and the new impeller.  A thought

[actual engine rpm]

Guys : Be very careful spouting off RPM numbers unless you know that these are actual engine rpm numbers.  The tachs on our boats are too susceptible and notorious for error.  Either check with a mechanical or a laser tach and get the real numbers of what the engine is actually doing!!

Ken - I had a similar problem and finally had the injection pump rebuilt and that solved my problem - no power in gear.   

Bob : I wouldn't go with those shroud covers.  I've said many times that when I get new life lines they will be the bare stainless.  All I see is that the vinyl covering means is more work cleaning them and they can/will trap salt water which corrodes the wire. 
BTW, for the same price you can buy the next larger wire size if you get the uncoated wire!!

Steve : Contact Garhauer Marine (909)985-9993.  They should be able to help you.   

Tomm : Sorry, I didn't see your question. 
Replace the cap and then let Physics do the rest. 
As the engine heats the air/coolant expands and goes into the reservoir.  When the engine cools the vacuum created inside the engine reservoir will suck the coolant it needs back in.  It will take a few of these cycles to stabilize the outside coolant reservoir and get all of the air out of the system. 
I remove my cap when I need to bleed the internal system ie. changing the exhaust riser, changing coolant hoses or changing the coolant every 4/5 years. 
Otherwise I check the coolant level by looking at the reservoir and NEVER take off the cap just to see if it's full !!! 

Tony : As I recall when I've had mine off, there are 6 bolts that are easily accessable  - to remove the intake manifold from the engine.  Drill & tap and reinstall.  A thought. 

Pierre : I have a Uniflex coupling - also from Vetus, which I've had since 1992!!   Vetus also has a Type 6 coupling which is a little cheaper.  A couple of options.   
After all it's only Boat $$ !!!

Earl : Yes, there is a taper - as it a tapered pipe thread!! 

Guys : The base is reusable, all you need to do is clean it up with Lime-A-Way and buy another piece of Zn and screw it in. 
I'd also recommend that you use a battery terminal cleaning brush (with a male & female wire brushes) to clean the female threads in the HX the terminal female brush to clean the threaded holder.  A thought. 

Terry : As Stu mentioned that pump body is nearly "bullet proof" .  The only real damage that can be do to it is to score/scratch the inner wall while replacing the lip seals - Or have a worn(groved) face plate.

If you read my pump rebuild article the real "key" is to make a special tool which allows removing those seals a snap.  Then you'll have a new pump ready to go.  I wouldn't recommend that you install the impeller on the shaft and put it in the extra pump for storage.  I keep my regular and Globe impellers "as is" so they don't get stored all "scrunched up" - for years.  A few thoughts. 

Randy : I agree with Peter, take your old tank in and have them install an OPD valve.  It's a "hell of a lot cheaper" than buying a new tank. 
If that new valve is taller it's less than an inch.  On my new tank it was the "welded on guard" that was taller, not the valve itself.  Ask the Propane Gas Co in your local area how much taller - if it is taller?  A thought. 

I completely agree with Mike !!
The way to keep smells and mildew out of a boat is first thru ventilation. 
I have 6 of the teak fixed vents (7 1/2 x 9 1/2 inch) mounted at floor level in port/starboard settees, aft cabin settee and one above the drawer below the sink (plus two 3" round vents).  It all started with venting the battery compartment.  The one just below the sink allows the heat from the water heater (on a long motor) to vent out before that heat migrates over to the fridge. 
Between the two solar vents, two dorades and a dry bilge we have never had mildue on board.  A few thoughts .