Messages

Tom : I'd recommend that you engage the glow plugs (if the engine is cold - under 100 water temp degrees) for 10 to 15 seconds. 
Just remember the old Chinese saying  "Glow plugs are much cheaper than changing starter" !! 
If engine water temp is over 100 degrees you don't need the glow plug preheat. 

Lance : It's on the boat so I can't tell you who makes it, but go to a hobby shop that sells models and model paint and they should have it. 

Lance : All of the MK I C34s that I've seen have a straight (NOT 90 deg) nipple off of the thru hull. 
After you connect in each tailpipe from both sinks, continue to starboard.  Then the drain should turn 90 degrees and go straight down to the thru hull. 

Bob : I've refinished all of the teak on my 1988 by removing it from the boat and taking it home. 
To answer your question - I found that scraping the teak was the best way to take off the heavy Cetol.  Then finish with sanding to finish it.  Just make sure that when scraping you don't go against the grain or you'll dig IN!!  Then make sure that before refinishing that you wash the teak with 50% clorox to kill any mold spores.  Then sand lightly with 120/160 grit and wipe the surface with alcohol to remove the saw dust. 
I used 3 coats of the light and then 2 coats of the gloss.  Good luck!! 

Tom : The M35 series engines have a 3 position "ignition" switch on the engine insturment panel.  The positions are OFF/ON/MOMENTARY. 
The momentary position is spring loaded and activates the glow plugs and the fuel pump (because there is no oil pressure).  The electrical load that you are seeing is on your VOLT meter, not amp meter. 

Guys : Those of you with a 4 cylinder M35 have a particular problem of space between the packing gland locknut and the end of the transmission. 
I'll guess that only the PSS and maybe the federal flexable coupling are "skinny" enough to fit in that small distance. 

Mike : I believe that you've got a solution.
There are two features that I wish I could change on my C34 :
1. The painted mast - wish it was anodized.
2. Gray Anti skid deck - wish it were white.

The bad part is that I had to pay extra back in 1988 to get those items that I wish I could change!! 
The stock boats came with a anodized mast and a white deck !!   A few thoughts. 

Tam : Not too sure how your head water intake on a MK II is plumbed. 
If it were a MKI I'd tell you to shut off the raw water thru hull (to the head and shower drain) off.  Then turn the head lever to "wet bowel".  Turn on the shower sump drain and pour into that drain a 50% Clorox mixture.  Keep pouring until you see that mixture starting to come into the head bowel.  Then shut off the shower drain, let the mixture set an hour or so, then turn the lever to dry bowel and pump out the Clorox water from the head.  Easy as that !!

I'll guess on a MKII -- What you need to do is to remove the hose from the thru hull and put it in a bucket with 50% bleach/water.  Then pump it through the line into the bowl and clean/kill the stuff making the smell.  It's the hose and stagnant salt water that is causing the smell.

[NO]

Charlie : There's no doubt about it - a Hi output alternator does take about a 2 HP side load to operate.  However, when you really want to put a bunch of amps back in to the battery in a short period of time - it's the only way to go!!
Solar is great, but has it's limitations, which I'm sure that you're aware of.  Wind is also great, but has it's limitations.  The little Honda is nice when there is less than 12kt of wind and it's cloudy. 
If you move every day, the Hi output alternator gets the amps back fast and when you get into WX (head wind/waves) and need all of the engines HP, chances are that the alternator is "loafing" by that time (with practically NO side load).  A few thoughts. 

Brian : Back in 1997/98 there's an article in the C34 Mainsheet tech notes about the side sliders.  The author used ash battoning (contact cement) on the black plastic sliders.  It not only strengthend the sliders where the handle attaches, but it also lightens up the interior( much more that you'd think!!).
Did the same to mine and love it. 

Steve : Only an imprudent person lets his batteries discharge more than necessary!  I never let mine go below a usage of 75 amp hours.  The less you let the batteries discharge before recharging, the more cycles you'll get out of them. 
I may be stingy (called Capt AmpMister by my crew), but overnight I seldom go below 40 amp hours.  That's with the fridge 24/7 and normal cabin/anchor lights with some TV.  I do have a couple of solar panels that will kick in in the morning.  I will crank up the Honda 1000 if we are going to stay in that anchorage for a second night. 
Take care of your batteries and they will take care of you!!  A thought

Ronnie : Check with your local Kubota dealer and get a cost.  I believe that the D850 engine was in the B7000 or B7100 tractor.  The dealer may even have a used head?
Good Luck with your earlier than 1987,  C36. 

Steve : There have been numerous articles on checking the rudder and fixing it!!!  If you've ever seen rusty water weeping from the rudder during winter layup - that's a tel tail sign.
For a short reply, here's what I recommend you do:
1.  Remove the emergency tiller cap.  If the stainless column has water in it (more than just condensation) you've got water in the core.
2.  Drill a few holes in the lower half of the rudder itself.  If water seeps out - you know what that means!!

I'd check with Catalina on the rudder pricing because I don't know where you got "between 25 & 30K $"?
There have been a number of C34 owners that have replaced their rudder for about $1500.  You need to check the factory's current pricing.  Good Luck

[D950]

Keith : If your hull # is 431, I'll guess that you have a M25XP engine that has a D950 Kubota engine block.
Look at out web site and you'll find a complete Kubota D950 parts manual in a pdf file.  Make yourself a CD of that manual - that's what I did.  Just remember the information is good for the block only.  Other items like raw water pump, transmission, etc. were added by Universal.
There will NEVER be any reference to a marine version of that D950 engine in any Kubota info!! 

[must]

Guys & Susan : Just remember that the amount of weight that your windlass must lift is the:
1.  Weight of the anchor (nominally 35lbs) plus
2.  Weight of the road when the boat is directly over the anchor (10' to 15' of chain or about 15 lbs)

You don't break out the anchor with the windlass nor "kedge off" with the windlass.  If you happen to have a drum, then you might consider lifting someone to the top of the mast.  A few thoughts