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Used for about 5 years. Comes with 2 R26S elements. 3/8ths barb fittings. Upgraded to a turbo Racor. $85 plus shipping.

I use something called a " Ford" wrench. Works great.

I left the snap ring at the end of the shaft off when I installed the impeller this morning. Seems I recall posts to the effect it is not required. Now I am second guessing myself. Will this harm the pump or engine drive shaft?

There is a mounting gasket. I think I got mine from Depco Pump.

I think the difference under power versus sail has to do with water flow over the rudder ie under power more flow. I also agree that a strut/shaft misalignment that would generate that kind of pull would also vibrate like hell. So I am still leaning twords a rudder issue.

Could the rudder shaft have been bent during haul/launch? Sounds like a trim problem as we say in aviation.

There is a basic AC and DC schematic in the owners manual. One caveat; I think Catalina was notorious for non-standard wire colors from year to year. And then there is the PO issue.....

First check and clean the glow plug harness. A quick and dirty check is to jump from the big stud on the solenoid to the glow plugs with a decent sized wire. Should be nice and hot in 10-20 seconds. Just be careful. Did this for a friend on a C 36 and an engine that would not start for 3 weeks zoomed to life. He then did the solenoid mod.

The one thing that stands out is that the " sense " wire is disconnected. This will lead to an overvolt situation as the alternator has no reference to control the regulator.

I can't remember which it is but it sound like it is either overserviced or underserviced with Freon.

My compr. is located under the galley sink, next to the hot water heater. Haven't seen any in this location. Stopped working twice, first time it was the switch on the DC panel, swapped the wire to the next unused switch down. Last summer it quit again and it turned out to be a corroded fuse on the unit and loose/corroded wiring at the unit. There is quite a bit of info on this site and others on the AB Cold Machine. I agree a Tech is required for any Freon work, but you can save some $ if you do a little prelim work.

Have a friend with a 1989 C34 and the bar is not there. Looks factory or someone did a REALLY nice grind and polish job. Makes it so much easier walking through stern.

The only leak in my case is an internal one in the pump.

Yes, rectified to DC with diodes and the unrectified frequency varies with engine speed.

I had the same problem, pump cycled even with the outlet sealed with a short piece of hose and a bolt. Have lived with it for 2 years, on some trips it " fixes " it's self and will not cycle for hours, and on others it run briefly every 20 minutes or so. Other that is still works great.