Messages

The Gates P/N is 20693 ECR. I think it was $4 at NAPA. Hate to think what Universal or Torrenson would charge.

Just bought a new Oberdorfer from Depco for $230. Do not know what rebuild parts add up to, but if you have to replace the shaft or cam,$ might be close to new. New style cover plate has an O ring, no more overpriced gaskets. Now I carry the old pump as a spare.

I have  a Gates p/n for the prebent hose that comes off the fresh water pump. Will get it off the boat today. You can pick it up at any auto parts store.

OK....I am not crazy. I just tryed the forum search and it worked fine. The search I am talking about is the same one Eric provided a link to in the previous post. It is on the home page ,top, to the leftt. Thanks Eric, never noticed the forum search.

Thanks all for the quick replies. Guess I have computer issues

Happens when I am logged on, just checked...from yet another brand new friends computer. Hmmm

When I do a search on our site using the search icon along the top, for the last few months I get a message from Google that my machine is sending automated messages and no search is possible. It happens with my old laptop and desktop. Just got a new laptop, first thing I checked was search funtion. Same deal. Machine is too new to be infected, problem with our site? I miss the search function, very helpful.

Thanks for all the info everone......one hell of a great site.

The studs will have to be replaced due to length and I have loosened all the nuts. I know from experience that studs are often put in with Locktite Red making easy removal an issue.

Helping a friend who has the old style bracket. Listed in the contents of the upgrade kit are new studs. Looking at his engine, I see that these new studs are to replace the ones that hold the exhaust manifold/coolant reservoir to the block. The existing studs will be too short when the plate from the kit is bolted to the manifold, the new longer studs are used as replacements. Has anyone done this kit upgrade recently. My concern is that removing these 25 year old studs might be a problem. I will use PB Blaster and heat, but I would like to hear from anyone that has taken on this project. I would hate hate snap one of them off. Thanks.

Wired and secured the Hobbs Meter right above the Racor in the head. Works great and only requires a check every week or so to keep the maintenance log up to date.

Another option is to install a Hobbs hour meter. I purchased mine for under $30 and wired it in to the fuel pump circuit.

I am looking for a new starter for the 25XP. I would prefer new, as the logistics of rowing out to the boat make it easier than rebuilt. Tractorsmart.com is no more, and both my local Kubota dealers want over $300 which seems hign. Has anyone been able to find a P/N 15231-63015 starter for a more reasonable price? Thanks.

One observation....I may be wrong, but those look like the original hoses going from the engine under the floor to the hot water heater. Might want to change them out....a thought.

Pulled the riser after seeing soot on the heat xchanger. Found it to be in good shape, except for the black pipe being loose between the engine flange and the 90 degree elbow to the verticle pipe. Removed the black pipe from the engine flange. The rest of the riser and the engine flange are in good shape.I assume I can thread in a new piece of black pipe from a plumbing suppy house. As per the wiki section,I will use muffler cement on the threads. What type of insulation should I use? The riser had a fiberglass-like cloth , then a fabric tape, then metal tape. I know I can go to speed shops etc, but I was hoping some one had just done this job and had some thoughts. Thanks.