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Topics - prh77

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1
Prestolite 51 amp that puts out 14 volts and a Facet original equip fuel pump in good shape. $75 and $50 or $100 for both. Alternator is about 5 yrs old with a nice machined pulley.

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Main Message Board / Engine issues
« on: December 10, 2018, 06:44:11 AM »
M 25 engine.....D 850 Kubota ?... started to blow a lot of grey smoke. Compr. test revealed 0 PSI on back cylinder with 425 on 2 front. Rear cylinder valve adjustment tight, adj valves, compr came up to 90 or so. Removed head. Found back cyl piston to be pock marked, looks like small craters on the moon, head also has some pock marks. Its almost looks like a piece of hardware went through this cylinder, but I am not sure. Also, when removing injectors, back one was only hand tight while others took a breaker bar to get loose. Back injector tip is also very sooty and oily, while front 2 are uniform dark carbon layer. Couple of questions; could a loose injector and tight valves cause some type of mis-fire/detonation that could cause this internal damage? And are real Kubota parts still around for this engine. At the least I need a new piston and some head work. Cylinder bore looks good with no ridge. In the Tech WIKI there is an old article about a guy in the Bay area doing a partial rebuild. The pictures of his rear piston looks a lot like mine. Appreciate any help.

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A friend with a 1999 C34 just swapped out yet another junk Sherwwod pump. He found that one of end tangs of the cam was cracked. The bushing is in place as per the SB. I wonder if this is an isolated problem. Local dealer is quoting pulling the engine and sending it to Hansen for repair.....crazy $. Has anyone done this repair? I know the timing cover has to come off. Universal wants something like $1200 for the cam, I assume the Kubota part is the same and much cheaper. What is the Kubota model # for a M35B?. Thanks.

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Catalina 34s Parts & Pieces For Sale or Wanted / MK 1 parts
« on: June 11, 2015, 01:27:55 PM »
Just sold Trinity and have some spares left;
Orberdorfer pump,2 55 amp alternators, 1 Motorola and 1 Mondo, both work great. Racor fuel filter assy w/ spare element and 3 brand new injectors in Kubota packaging...ordered from Tractor Smart. Sell separately or by the piece.

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In great shape with many extras. $36000.

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Main Message Board / 3 Blade Prop Question
« on: September 09, 2014, 06:15:55 AM »
I am looking to upgrade to a 3 bladed prop. Research on this site indicated a 9.5 or 10" by 15 is the way to go. I also understand I want a " sailor " prop. Are the props offered by Catalina Direct the proper types, or do I have to go through the Factory? !988 C34 M25XP engine. Thanks for all help and info on this site.

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Used for about 5 years. Comes with 2 R26S elements. 3/8ths barb fittings. Upgraded to a turbo Racor. $85 plus shipping.

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Main Message Board / Oberdorfer Snap Ring
« on: March 24, 2014, 04:40:04 PM »
I left the snap ring at the end of the shaft off when I installed the impeller this morning. Seems I recall posts to the effect it is not required. Now I am second guessing myself. Will this harm the pump or engine drive shaft?

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Main Message Board / Forward hatch parts
« on: July 30, 2013, 06:53:21 AM »
I have a Bomar hatch in the V berth. I am trying to find part numbers for the " mushrooms" ie the round exterior pieces the latch handles are connected to. They are sealed with O rings. Went to the Bomar site and they have cast, extruded, and several other styles for parts. Does anyone have a part # or know what type of Bomar was installed in a 1988 boat? Thanks.

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Catalina 34s Parts & Pieces For Sale or Wanted / 90 amp alternator
« on: June 26, 2012, 02:23:16 PM »
This is the Leece Neville unit that MaineSail talks about. Has an adjustable regulator and is a direct bolt on for our 55 amp Motorolas. I bought it new, used it for 2 months last summer and then received a Balmar as a gift. This unit will do 90 % of the work of a Balmar at a fraction of the cost. $175 Contact me at prh77@verizon.net

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Main Message Board / Macerator question
« on: April 06, 2012, 04:47:09 PM »
My Jabsco is on the way out. Looks tight in there....does one have to pull the holding tank or is there enough wiggle room. I know you have to do some cuts to get the tank out...wondering if it would be easier to pull tank and do everything in the fall, ie change all hoses etc? Thoughts?

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Main Message Board / Seach function on our site
« on: March 15, 2012, 12:53:02 PM »
When I do a search on our site using the search icon along the top, for the last few months I get a message from Google that my machine is sending automated messages and no search is possible. It happens with my old laptop and desktop. Just got a new laptop, first thing I checked was search funtion. Same deal. Machine is too new to be infected, problem with our site? I miss the search function, very helpful.

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Main Message Board / Alternator bracket upgrade question
« on: February 24, 2012, 08:01:30 AM »
Helping a friend who has the old style bracket. Listed in the contents of the upgrade kit are new studs. Looking at his engine, I see that these new studs are to replace the ones that hold the exhaust manifold/coolant reservoir to the block. The existing studs will be too short when the plate from the kit is bolted to the manifold, the new longer studs are used as replacements. Has anyone done this kit upgrade recently. My concern is that removing these 25 year old studs might be a problem. I will use PB Blaster and heat, but I would like to hear from anyone that has taken on this project. I would hate hate snap one of them off. Thanks.

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Main Message Board / New starter
« on: May 13, 2011, 10:06:15 AM »
I am looking for a new starter for the 25XP. I would prefer new, as the logistics of rowing out to the boat make it easier than rebuilt. Tractorsmart.com is no more, and both my local Kubota dealers want over $300 which seems hign. Has anyone been able to find a P/N 15231-63015 starter for a more reasonable price? Thanks.

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Main Message Board / Exhaust Riser repair
« on: April 25, 2011, 05:09:24 PM »
Pulled the riser after seeing soot on the heat xchanger. Found it to be in good shape, except for the black pipe being loose between the engine flange and the 90 degree elbow to the verticle pipe. Removed the black pipe from the engine flange. The rest of the riser and the engine flange are in good shape.I assume I can thread in a new piece of black pipe from a plumbing suppy house. As per the wiki section,I will use muffler cement on the threads. What type of insulation should I use? The riser had a fiberglass-like cloth , then a fabric tape, then metal tape. I know I can go to speed shops etc, but I was hoping some one had just done this job and had some thoughts. Thanks.

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