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Prestolite 51 amp that puts out 14 volts and a Facet original equip fuel pump in good shape. $75 and $50 or $100 for both. Alternator is about 5 yrs old with a nice machined pulley.

M 25 engine.....D 850 Kubota ?... started to blow a lot of grey smoke. Compr. test revealed 0 PSI on back cylinder with 425 on 2 front. Rear cylinder valve adjustment tight, adj valves, compr came up to 90 or so. Removed head. Found back cyl piston to be pock marked, looks like small craters on the moon, head also has some pock marks. Its almost looks like a piece of hardware went through this cylinder, but I am not sure. Also, when removing injectors, back one was only hand tight while others took a breaker bar to get loose. Back injector tip is also very sooty and oily, while front 2 are uniform dark carbon layer. Couple of questions; could a loose injector and tight valves cause some type of mis-fire/detonation that could cause this internal damage? And are real Kubota parts still around for this engine. At the least I need a new piston and some head work. Cylinder bore looks good with no ridge. In the Tech WIKI there is an old article about a guy in the Bay area doing a partial rebuild. The pictures of his rear piston looks a lot like mine. Appreciate any help.

A friend with a 1999 C34 just swapped out yet another junk Sherwwod pump. He found that one of end tangs of the cam was cracked. The bushing is in place as per the SB. I wonder if this is an isolated problem. Local dealer is quoting pulling the engine and sending it to Hansen for repair.....crazy $. Has anyone done this repair? I know the timing cover has to come off. Universal wants something like $1200 for the cam, I assume the Kubota part is the same and much cheaper. What is the Kubota model # for a M35B?. Thanks.

Just sold Trinity and have some spares left;
Orberdorfer pump,2 55 amp alternators, 1 Motorola and 1 Mondo, both work great. Racor fuel filter assy w/ spare element and 3 brand new injectors in Kubota packaging...ordered from Tractor Smart. Sell separately or by the piece.

In great shape with many extras. $36000.

I am looking to upgrade to a 3 bladed prop. Research on this site indicated a 9.5 or 10" by 15 is the way to go. I also understand I want a " sailor " prop. Are the props offered by Catalina Direct the proper types, or do I have to go through the Factory? !988 C34 M25XP engine. Thanks for all help and info on this site.

Used for about 5 years. Comes with 2 R26S elements. 3/8ths barb fittings. Upgraded to a turbo Racor. $85 plus shipping.

I left the snap ring at the end of the shaft off when I installed the impeller this morning. Seems I recall posts to the effect it is not required. Now I am second guessing myself. Will this harm the pump or engine drive shaft?

I have a Bomar hatch in the V berth. I am trying to find part numbers for the " mushrooms" ie the round exterior pieces the latch handles are connected to. They are sealed with O rings. Went to the Bomar site and they have cast, extruded, and several other styles for parts. Does anyone have a part # or know what type of Bomar was installed in a 1988 boat? Thanks.

This is the Leece Neville unit that MaineSail talks about. Has an adjustable regulator and is a direct bolt on for our 55 amp Motorolas. I bought it new, used it for 2 months last summer and then received a Balmar as a gift. This unit will do 90 % of the work of a Balmar at a fraction of the cost. $175 Contact me at prh77@verizon.net

My Jabsco is on the way out. Looks tight in there....does one have to pull the holding tank or is there enough wiggle room. I know you have to do some cuts to get the tank out...wondering if it would be easier to pull tank and do everything in the fall, ie change all hoses etc? Thoughts?

When I do a search on our site using the search icon along the top, for the last few months I get a message from Google that my machine is sending automated messages and no search is possible. It happens with my old laptop and desktop. Just got a new laptop, first thing I checked was search funtion. Same deal. Machine is too new to be infected, problem with our site? I miss the search function, very helpful.

Helping a friend who has the old style bracket. Listed in the contents of the upgrade kit are new studs. Looking at his engine, I see that these new studs are to replace the ones that hold the exhaust manifold/coolant reservoir to the block. The existing studs will be too short when the plate from the kit is bolted to the manifold, the new longer studs are used as replacements. Has anyone done this kit upgrade recently. My concern is that removing these 25 year old studs might be a problem. I will use PB Blaster and heat, but I would like to hear from anyone that has taken on this project. I would hate hate snap one of them off. Thanks.

I am looking for a new starter for the 25XP. I would prefer new, as the logistics of rowing out to the boat make it easier than rebuilt. Tractorsmart.com is no more, and both my local Kubota dealers want over $300 which seems hign. Has anyone been able to find a P/N 15231-63015 starter for a more reasonable price? Thanks.

Pulled the riser after seeing soot on the heat xchanger. Found it to be in good shape, except for the black pipe being loose between the engine flange and the 90 degree elbow to the verticle pipe. Removed the black pipe from the engine flange. The rest of the riser and the engine flange are in good shape.I assume I can thread in a new piece of black pipe from a plumbing suppy house. As per the wiki section,I will use muffler cement on the threads. What type of insulation should I use? The riser had a fiberglass-like cloth , then a fabric tape, then metal tape. I know I can go to speed shops etc, but I was hoping some one had just done this job and had some thoughts. Thanks.

I have been having problems with the original AB icebox system as of late. It would not always power up when the switch was turned on, and when it did, the fan would pulsate in a one minute on, 10 second off cycle at times. It crashed 2 weeks ago, so I started to put cash away for a replacement. Did some checking, and found low voltage at the panel switch when the system was activated..  2.5V. Found an unused switch and moved the power lead. I now have a new AB fridge. The contacts on the old switch must have been stressed by the 21+ years of 5-7 amp service.
It now works like a charm.

Main and 135 genny. Plenty of life left in them $450

Cannister with metal mesh inside in great condition. $45

Still has plenty of life. $225.

Having been burned a few times after trying to install parts I kept for emergencies, I had a thought; when you get a spare, install it. This will accomplish a few things. First you will find out if it fits and functions. I remember one post here, a member was south of the border and his engine fresh water pump failed. Pulled out the spare to find one of the nipples for the hot water heater was not included. He ended doing a nipplectomy on the high seas with a pair of vice grips. Better to install the part at the dock and verify operation at your leisure. Another benefit is you will remove a part that you know is in working order. Granted it is used, but if you replace it before you have to, you have known good spare. One final benefit is the oh sh** factor. We have all snapped off hardware or had to fabricate tools for that bolt that makes you say what the hell were the designers thinking . Again at the comfort of your slip or mooring, you can apply PB Blaster and take your time. You can also procure new hardware that you buggered up. I am not saying we should replace everthing on the boat, but for some of the common spares, JUST REPLACE IT.

The pump that is driven by the alternator belt [fresh water ] has a hose that goes from 1" to 7/8" and has a pre-formed 90 degree bend. I can see " Gates "on the hose but no P/N. Has anyone purchased one from NAPA or where ever,and do you recall the part number? Also, the 7/8" hose that goes from the thermostat housing to the coolant reservoir, will a regular hose make the bend with-out crimping, or do I have to go pre-formed. Thanks all.

We all seem to have 160 degree thermostats in our engines, and I know if it aint broke don't fix it...but still....I wonder. The Universal manual says temp range is 160-190 F. It would seem to me, that if you have a clean 3" heat exchanger that has no problem holding your temp at 160 F, would a 180 degree thermostat make for a cleaner running engine [and more hot water to boot]. When I say cleaner running, it is my understanding that internal combustion engines run more efficiently as temp goes up [to a point]. Again, this is assuming that the heat exchanger is clean and can hold the temp to spec with no problems. I have heard there are problems with salt in cooling water, but I thought that was with raw water cooled engines.

Original 1988 installation. While running, unit will lose rpms- judging by ear- about every 45 seconds. Does not stop...just slows down slightly and then picks right back up. Will do this slight cycling at 45 sec intervals like clockwork, so I do not think it is a fuse or wiring issue as it is too regular. Not sure if this is new, just began to notice it this week.  Any thoughts? Seems to cool fine, although it is still pretty cold up here.

While going over the engine this fall, loosened alternator belt and found the pump pulley [ and shaft ] to have a small amount of play. I assume it is time to replace the unit. Does anyone have the latest and greatest Kubota P/N? Thanks.

   Here is a quick question for everyone; what type and viscosity oil do you use? My '88 Universal 25XP manual specifies straight 30, but I am wondering if the 15-40 Rottella might be the way to go.

Just installed this unit as Motorola was getting tired. It has a "sense" terminal that gives the internal regulator voltage input. This terminal has a jumper to the B+ terminal. If I were to wire the sense terminal directly to the house bank ( where the B+ terminal is wired ),the regulator would "see" actual voltage delivered to the house bank and adjust as required. I know in a perfect world, voltage at B+ and the pos term at house bank would be very close, but are there drawbacks to wiring as I describe? Only problem I see, is if the sense wire broke, alternator would run away. Any thoughts?

Stock 1988 interior lights, ie cabin fixtures that slide fore and aft for high and low, with bulbs that look like Buss fuses with pointed ends ( 10 watt ),and v berth / aft cabin reading lights that have what I think are #1410 bulbs. Are there LED bulbs that adapt to these fixtures, or do I need to go new?

 My out haul is jammed. I see in the manual there is a pulley inside the boom. I assume the end caps have to come off. I took the 4 screws off the aft cap and it won't move. Does the bolt in the middle of the cap have to come off also? Mine is so tight I thought I would shear it off.

Catalina 34 tall rig. Looking for a cruising sail in decent shape as mine is shot and cannot afford replacement.

I have the standard Atwood heater, probably original. I changed the hoses last year, and now it seems to only get warm after extended engine runs. I then changed the thermostat and verified 160 degree operation. I have a valve in the heater feed line - from the freshwater pump fitting - and when I open it, both hose get nice and hot. Also, when I open this valve after the engine is warm, temp guage drops from 160 to 125, then recovers in a minute or so, indicating a transfer of heat. And yes, heater works great on shore power, almost too hot. I do not see how this could be the case, but would direction of coolant flow affect output, ie I reversed the lines?

I am thinking about fuel injector work on Trinity. From what I read, new injectors from Kubota are close in price to rebuild, $60-80. My problem is, using the D950 manual on this site, I come up with the p/n 15271-5300-0 and 15771-5302-0. First question,why are they showing 2 injectors with one p/n and 1 with the other? Also Tractorsmart does not recognize these numbers. Has anyone ordered new injectors for a 25XP, and what numbers did you come up with?. One posting on the C36 site came up with p/n 70000-65209 and these were $64 at Tractorsmart. That would be a deal if it is the right application.

Seems I remember something about a replacement for the 25XP. Made by K+N or NAPA? I am beginning to worry about the mesh in the stock unit.

I have 3 batteries connected to my Xantrex charger, 2 group 24 and a 27, all flooded cell. I will discharge them at different rates, and then recharge with the unit. What position should the boat battery switches be during charge? Can the Xantrex monitor each battery and adjust amps and voltage as required, or should the boat battery switches be set to "all ", so the charger views the batterys as one load?

Is a 160 degree thermostat standard for our engines? It would seem this low temp might not heat up the oil enough to purge out moisture. Any thoughts?

1988 25 XP; the batteries do not seem to be getting charged as much as of late. With all 3 batts online - being charged by alternator- voltage at the Batt terminal of alt. is 13.7 volts. Seems a little low. Is this a unit that could be bench checked by an automotive access. shop in the fall? Bad diodes??

I always add Biobore , but is there something else required for the low sulfer fuel or cetane issues? 1988 25 XP. Thanks.

On the  injection pump fuel inlet fitting, there is a valve with a knurled knob. It is connected to a line which goes to the the outer section of the fuel injectors, and then to the return line to the tank. What is the purpose of this valve, and what position should it be in for normal engine operation? According to the generic Unirversal manual I have, it should be open. In this position the electric fuel pump clicks quickly, as the fuel is bypassing all the time. Any thoughts?

I would like a little more speed while motoring. With a 25XP and a 15" prop set to 20 degrees, I max out at six knots. Would bumping up the pitch to 22 degrees overload the motor? I have the 3 inch heat exchanger. Any thoughts?

The yard stored Trinity on a rather tired looking cradle. During the winter, the whole thing settled and the two aft supports ended up supporting much of the weight , rather than the keel. Now the hull is deformed approx 1/4 inch around the L/H aft support. Yard says hulls are elastic and no problem. I am irate. How much damage was done? How should I proceed with repairs or whatever. L/H aft support is approx 12" by 12" and is located 12" fwd of through hulls for engine intake,toilet, etc. Thanks.

After installation of a new strut bearing on a 34, what should I lubricate the drive shaft with to ease installation (rudder in place) ?