Topics

Hello C34 Group,

Getting ready for next weeks bottom job on my '88 #796 C34. 

Pic post paint from January 2020 haulout.   I had expected the yard to do some minimal smile prep at this haulout but they did not - just clean sand and paint.  I made the decision to just put the boat in the water.   

Today, bilge is dry and my inclination is to do minimal smile prep work at this haulout.  Not a huge fan of the cosmetics but not concerned.   Anything suggest otherwise?   Pretty standard stuff? 

We will see what things look like post hoist / cleaning and make final decisions then.

Thanks,

Kurt

Hi All,

I replaced my steering quadrant cable last year on my '88 C34.   The boat and steering has performed well even very recently in 20-22knots in sloppy seas w full main & 130.

But, there is this minor stickiness or detent felt via the wheel at center/0 degree rudder.   Once I move the wheel past this stickiness all is fine and I no longer feel any detent or stickiness at 0 degree while steering and working the wheel.   However, if I leave the wheel again at 0 degrees for some time the stickiness reappears.

I can only think of two unlikely potential causes:  1) the new cable is a bit more tensioned and perhaps the rudder bearings are a little worn at the zero degree mark  2) the below decks autopilot ram has some detent at the 0 degree point for whatever reason.

This doesn't feel like a serious safety issue but I'd sure like to know exactly what may be causing this. 

Any other ideas or thoughts?

I will be pulling my rear panel for annual steering check soon.

Thanks all,

Kurt

Folks,

My oil filter has a drip that refuses to go away.  I did a recent oil change not long ago.

Looks like I can change the oil filter given its height above the pan without removing oil.   Want to be sure though!

Am I correct?  Universal M25xp.

Thanks,

Kurt

Hello everyone,

I have seen some postings on this subject.    My steering cable has a barb with more on the way so it is time to replace.

Context is around the removal of the wire cable and the "take up eyes."  Is the process below correct?

1)  Remove two cable tightening nuts on the take up eyes.
2)  Pull the "take up eye" off the radial drive wheel along with the attached wire. 
3)  Back off the clamps to release the "take up eye" in the immense room of the aft cabin.

Some have said that I will need to release the clamps first, then I can remove the cable and then remove the "take up eyes."  Those clamps on top of the radial drive look difficult to reach when in position.

This is one of those projects I want to have detailed out before I touch anything.

Kurt

My '88 (1300 hours) has just recently begun giving off some smoke and I noticed looking behind the boat that fuel is coming out of the exhaust. I can see the black fuel in the water.   Boat starts fine, runs fine and is not overheating.  (I've previously sorted out the hx and am pretty sure that is not an issue.)

Should I just replace the injectors?  Check the valves for adjustment?  (Or hire a mechanic to further diagnose.)

Any insight appreciated.

Kurt

I'm investigating installing a second manual bilge pump that can be pumped from inside the cabin.   Probably will get the Whale Titan so that I can use same repair kit on the bilge pump near wheel.

I'd like to avoid boring another through-hull into my boat so am considering re-using the galley sink through-hull or one of the two existing bilge pump through-hulls.  All would be T'd and looped accordingly to ensure no cross or back-flow.

Anyone have any experience setting up a second manual pump inside cabin?  Where did you mount the pump?   

Thanks for your thoughts.

Kurt

Hello everyone,

Been testing out my DSC/AIS radio (Standard Horizion 2100) with a masthead antenna specifically issuing position requests and position reports.  9 times out of 10 the receiver deems the channel (70) as busy and holds DSC transmission until the channel is no longer so.  Most of the time this takes less than a minute but sometimes more.  When I listen to channel 70 directly, typical non-digital white noise is in the background but it is difficult to squelch it out at any levels lower than max and even then oftent times this does not do the trick.    I also have a handheld DSC radio and this does not show similar behavior.

Location is SF Bay area and thus a busy area.  I can't find a local vs. distance sensitivity control on the radio and manual doesn't seem to note one. 

Is this normal DSC radio behavior?  Obviously, connecting the dots I am a bit concerned that if one ever needs to press the DSC emergency button and the "channel busy" hangs the transmission for minutes... 

Thx,

Kurt

Hello everyone,

A shorepower tale especially for Mk1 owners...

Recently had an intermittent connection on my shorepower connection on my '88 Mk I.  I thought it was at the cord to connector so fiddled with it and all was well.    Recently showed up to my boat with batteries @ zero, discovered lack of shorepower, and then had to diagnose. Quickly discovered the cord side female connector and the male receptacle on the boat both were literally toasted - attributed the cycling of a 5-10 amp heater on and off repeatably as the straw that broke the camels back.    Fortunate the toasting was isolated to plug and receptacle to say the least.

Proceeded to remove the male connector from the boat and noticed that over the years the white wire appears to have become marginal and ultimately just fried itself free (see above) from the plug thus breaking the circuit.

Ordered a new screw for screw compatible Hubbel stainless replacement receptacle from Amazon for ~$80 and rewired the shorepower and all is good as new. (Looked at the newer technologies for shorepower but didn't want to drill new holes.)  The new hubble connector did have a better design including strain relief vs. the '88 version of the connector.  Not a difficult job at all but I'm a bit oversized for the lazerette...

Learnings:

1) It is very easy to stick your head in the lazerette to check out the state of the terminals on the back end of your shorepower receptacle.
2)  It is very easy to replace the receptacle at nominal cost if connections look less than good/great.
3)  It is easier to do 1) and 2) above than have my experience IMO.

Hello everyone,

Getting some damage repaired on my hull and am now trying to match gelcoat colors.  My boat is a 1988 hull #796.  I initially selected the spectrum color 3500 which is the '80-'88 Catalina gelcoat color supposably.  After spraying by the boatyard it turned out to be much too yellow.  Have ordered a quart of of the 3503 which is the white for the '89-'95 Catalina's which is due to arrive midweek and will be tried then.  Spectrum color people say the 3500 is yellower and the 3503 is bluer.  Anyone ever go through this matching excersize and have any advice to share?

http://www.spectrumcolor.com/Items.aspx?key=cat&code=stwhite&manu=CATALINA&incl_m=F

Thanks

Kurt

Hello everyone,

Replaced my MKI w a MKII boom sourced from Catalina.  Would like to attach a cheek block permanently for Reef #2 a al MKI style reefing to the boom.  (Using the internal single line setup for Reef #1.)  Don't want to install a track like the MKI's.

I am not sure yet if I can reach into the boom and hold the nuts for screws to attach the cheek block to the boom.   If I can will use screws.  If not, considering aluminum pop rivets.   Had good success pop riveting my new steaming light in last weekend and think this may be a good solution here as well.  Am I missing anything here?  Seems like the rivets should more than handle the sheer loads generated?  

Thanks,

Kurt

Hello everyone,

My uniden fixed mount vhf radio appears to not be able to recieve communication on channels 17 through 66 - did not check if transmitting worked on these channels which I will do another day as the thought just hit me.  Channels 67 and above and 16 and below do recieve and transmit based upon previous working history - did check antenna connection at the radio and all looked fine.  Did a quick glance at the manual and didn't see any european configuration settings or things like that being user accessable.

I didn't discover this issue until a race when committee was using 66 2 weeks ago - I suspect the issue has been in place since first install 2.5 years ago.

I suppose antenna, antenna cable, and radio are the only possible suspects here.  I plan to swap out the antenna as that is the least expensive choice of fixes and go from there. 

Any one have any other thoughts re diagnosis or fix?

Thanks,

Kurt
'88 C34 796

Hello,

About 1 of every 2 fill ups I get foaming diesel which forces me to very gradually fill the tank.  I've checked the fuel tank vent - no problem.   Also, I do add a bit of FPPF Total Power prior to every fill.   Is there any way to mitigate this or just live with it?

Thanks,

Kurt
'88 #796 M25XP

Hello,

I'm evaluating adding a symmetrical spinnaker to my '88 C34.  On that note, what size winches are recommended for the secondary's in the cockpit for Spinnaker Sheets?

Thanks,

Kurt

Hello everyone,

Just purchased the EZ Glide system.  My '88 has the standard, recessed track set up.   How does one actually mount the car on the track?  I have tried to do so and have failed several times but have gotten good at repacking the bearings.   Specifically, I am unable to fit the larger car with the fairlead/bearings onto the track.  I am forced to tilt it a bit as it extends from the track but past the recessed point and that angle prevents the mount.    Must I remove the track, slide the car on, and then reseal/bolt down to make this work?   

Thanks for any advice/comments here.

Kurt

Hello everyone,

I've queried my mechanic, potential suppliers,  and this group and now have some conflicting data points regarding pitch I'm working to sort out.

Specifically, I'm considering adding a 3 blade folder to my '88 C34 w M25xp engine (2:1 ratio I believe) and have received several recommendations for pitch - 15" is consistent for diameter.  (I do not know the pitch on my current 3 blade fixed.  It does rev to > 3000 rpm panel tach view.)  I understand from this board that the standard C34 3 blade for the XP is 9".  My mechanic recommends 9" for the 3 blade folder.   Folder vendor A recommends 10" (but 9" is ok.) Folder vendor B recommends 9".    I'm leaning towards the 3 blade 9" as the conservative choice that has little downside as far as I understand it.

Does anyone have any data suggesting what the velocity difference at ~2300 rpm would be between the 9" vs. 10" pitch of a similarly designed prop in flat water?   Would flat water provide the worse case delta?  Is this loss of velocity for given rpm the sole downside of the 9" pitch?  Should I expect to continue to get to >3000 rpm with a prop of 10" pitch on the 25xp in flat water?   In all sea conditions?   Any thoughts or advice here?   

Thanks in advance for offering any data or experiences here.

Kurt

'88 C34