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Messages - cmainprize

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 14
1
Main Message Board / Re: Drive shaft touching stern tube
« on: May 29, 2019, 03:50:05 PM »
Thank Ron! I ordered new K75 mounts this week as well.  The arrived today.  They have a curved washer between the bottom and top nut.  Does the washer go on top on the lower height adjusting nut, our below the top nut?  I am suspect below the top nut, but the they don't come with instructions. 

Thank in advance. 

2
Main Message Board / Drive shaft touching stern tube
« on: May 25, 2019, 05:58:48 AM »
When applying bottom paint this week I noticed the shaft is just touching the bottom aft edge of the stern tube where it exits the boat.  The shaft has never been centered in the shaft where it exits the tube, but I have never noticed it to touch the bottom of the tube.

The cutlass bearing has not play, and does appear to have any uneven wear.  The boat is still in the cradle, I do understand this can "bend" the boat a bit, but the shaft seems to low.  I also noticed some additional vibration sounds late last year.  I am thinking the mounts have compressed a bit causing the engine to sit a bit lower changing the angle the share exits the tube causing it to just touch the tube. 

The boat is set up with a dripless log and federal flex coupler. 

I am thinking one or two turns on each corner would be enough to lift the engine enough to increase the shaft angle and prevent it from touching the tube and should keep the alignment close enough that I can fine tune it once the boat sits in the water for a week or so and "straightens out'.

Thoughts or suggestions? 

3
Main Message Board / Re: Windless article
« on: September 07, 2017, 04:25:17 AM »
Does anyone have pictures of the new windlass once installed.  I am looking to do this upgrade as well.  I have been running the chain through the drum and tailing it for years.  Not the best set up but it works.  Had enough of muddy hands with lots of little metal bits that strip off the drum as the chain shreds the drum.

4
Main Message Board / Re: Synthetic Teak Decking
« on: August 01, 2017, 06:01:22 AM »
We used permateek. Not for any other reason then the distributor is close and he was great to work with.  It's the little things like all the "Holly" lines up perfectly from panel to panel.

Sent from 10 miles west of O'Donnell point on Georgian bay!

5
Main Message Board / Re: Synthetic Teak Decking
« on: July 31, 2017, 03:19:00 PM »
Finally got some pics.  Love the decking.  Softer on feet, very grippy, and we really like the look.  We are having the cockpit combings done soon and I would like to do the side decks if I can justify the cost. 


6
Main Message Board / Synthetic Teak Decking
« on: July 10, 2017, 06:28:30 PM »
Nothing beats the look of beautifully maintained natural teak decking.  We have also really liked the looks and feel of the synthetic teak finding it's way onto many new boats. 

We decided we liked it enough to have our C34 done.  The cockpit is pieces are done and being installed next week.  See pic.

They will  template decks for install later in the season so we don't lose any time from our already short season.  I will send pics after install next week.

Cheers,

7
We did a cutlass bearing, federal coupling, and Feathering  J prop upgrade 4 years ago.  In hindsight I should have done the shaft at the same time.  Not sure what boats are able to get the shaft past the rudder, but I can tell you on my fin keel MK11 it was not going to happen.  The extra 1/4 of play I got by pushing out the bearing first made it closer but still a long way from "sliding past"  I read the articles first saying it could be done as well!  I would like to hear from a MK11 boat that made it work.  The worst part about dropping the rudder is digging the hole.  If you are on pavement your kinda screwed.  Once you dig a hole deep enough to clear the rudder shaft, it's a 30 minute job to drop the rudder.  Gives you a good reason to do a full steering system inspection while you are jammed into the aft lockers.

Cheers,

CM

8
Main Message Board / Re: Holding tank venting issue.
« on: October 09, 2016, 06:11:27 PM »
Change the hose, then you know it's not the issue!  Pop the old hose off at the tank vent, barb the new and old hose together and work the new hose hose into position.  Ten minutes tops.  Change the hose, it ten bucks and you know for sure.

Our you could build a custom tank like I did with a 1 inch hose vented forward thru the hanging locker just below the rub rail and get rid of the flawed stantion vent that came from the factory. 

9
Main Message Board / Re: Deck Stepped Mast Issues?
« on: September 09, 2016, 04:48:29 AM »
Deck stepped mast present zero safety concerns vs a keel stepped mast. Both styles have pro's and cons related to leaks, and ease of stepping.   You will have lots of other things going wrong if breaking or dis-masting is a concern. 

10
Main Message Board / Re: Broken washer
« on: August 03, 2016, 07:28:27 PM »
Hi Dave, there is large Circlip (outside style) on the shaft behind the wheel. This likely what you found in the cockpit. You will pay 50 times what it's worth from edson. I bought my replacement from an industrial fastener supplier. I could not get it in stainless but the steel one has been there for years since the original broke.

11
Hi George, that big alternator is only along for the ride unless you batteries need the amps.  If your batteries are full (solar or other) the effect on your engine is nill.  The biggest change you can make is a clean bottom good prop.  We are fresh water so we haul every 6 months for winter and and keep a really clean bottom.  We run a feathering J prop ( adjustable) and get similar fuel consumption.

We run 2400 rpm at 6.5 knots all day (calm conditions) and burn less then .75 gallon per hour.  We calculate our range at 1 gallon and hour for peace of mind. 

I figure our range under power is 25 gallons at .75 gallon per hour or about 215 miles.  Even if you could manage 15% better range you are only getting another 30 miles. 

12
Main Message Board / Re: Gooseneck cotter pin shear
« on: June 27, 2016, 05:59:51 PM »
I may what you need. We just did a total replacement after we damaged the mast. The parts are all sitting at th marina still. PM Me and let me know what you need before the old rig ends up in the scrap pile.

13
Main Message Board / Re: new mast
« on: June 26, 2016, 05:46:09 AM »
Finally got the sails up and all the little things back together and tested everything yesterday.  Everything  seems really good.  Still a bit of mast running to do as I suspect the shrouds will stretch a touch after they a have a couple of good sails on them. The new system looks great and the boom and goose neck fitting is excellent design.  The turnbuckles are the open design which is also a nice change from the covered ones from the factory and the sta lock fittings look very cool.  The new style sails slides allow the mast to go up without even touching the winch and the sails drops like a stone when released.  All in all it was a PIA but the rig is awesome and a great improvement to the boat.  I am rarely impressed by a mechanic, but I can't say enough about James from Bayport.  He was methodical and his workman ship is excellent.  Thank you.

14
Main Message Board / Re: new mast
« on: June 23, 2016, 04:21:14 AM »
The new mast and boom are finally done.  Everything was changed from the mast step to the antenna including all standing rigging from cotter pin to cotter pin.  A couple of small hiccups but everything is finally done.  One shroud was too short, and the sail slugs had to be changed.  The sail was finished last night and will be going up today with the first shake down and mast tuning over the weekend.  The backstay was kept in the original configuration and not changed to the full dual setup, (they forgot) this may be for the best.  The new setup looks great and I looking forward to seeing if the boat feels the same. 

15
Main Message Board / Re: new mast
« on: May 26, 2016, 04:14:06 AM »
The dual vs split backstay was for a couple of reasons.  I found the split stay was a pain when putting the mast up.  I needed to use a halyard to pull mast back to get the threads to start on the aft turnbuckles.  I wanted to move the stays as far out board as a could to avoid the bumping into them.  The split only allowed for a short area for the backstay adjuster to move, vs a longer area for the dual stays.  The splitting triangle added a bunch of fittings and pins that are not needed.  The failure of the single stay was not really a concern.  Yes Fred, I also support my davits with a lighter wire to the mast head.   The mast head was still wrapped in packaging when I saw it last week so I need to figure that this week.  Lots of little things will change with the new setup.

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