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I hauled out to replace my circa 1990 transducers which went to a B&G "Focus" speed/depth display sold as original equipment with the boat.  To upgrade to more modern transducers (200 HZ) you need to enlarge the hull opening diameter from 1 3/4" to 2".  I'm replacing with a basic Raymarine i50 depth sounder.

In thinking this through beforehand, I thought I would be able to remove the transducers from their thru-hull housings, back off the nuts inside, give them a whack with a mallet from above, and they (and their ancient sealant) would pop out. Then, my plan was to double up two hole saws (1 3/4" inside to act as the new "pilot", 2" for the new hole) and just drill through the bottom.

The plastic nut for the speed transducer backed off with some taps with a hammer and a short piece of hardwood to the flanges on the nut.  The nut on the depth transducer housing would NOT budge. No amount of persuasion with the mallet from above would dislodge the speed transducer housing despite removing the nut.  Thus my whole plan for using the doubled up hole saw was foiled.

I went up in the boat and got two wooden plugs which are normally tied off to their thru-hull valves in case of emergency.  I inserted these in the housings from below, gently tapped them in until they were seated, and then cut the protruding portion off (a little proud) with a multi-tool saw.  Then I used the 2" hole saw—which now had a solid "center" for the pilot bit to grab—to cut the new hole.  I prepared the new hole (sanding back bottom paint, smoothing the hole sides, and removing left over reside from the backing plate inside the hull), added the sealant to the new housing flange and bottom part of threads, and then pushed it in and tightened from above.  You will need a helper to add a bit of pressure to the new transducer housing from below (to prevent it from spinning) while you tighten the new locking nut from above.

For anyone thinking of doing this, I recommend this technique (inserting the wood plugs into the old/legacy 1 3/4" housings from below so the pilot bit from your 2" hole saw can center the new cut). Don't even bother with trying to remove the locking nuts from the old housing.  It will take two minutes with the hole saw and you're ready to prep and secure the new transducer housing in your boat.

Patches

I like that you appear to have left enough room in your tank design to get at the rudder stuffing box.  While I appreciate all the capacity of that rear water tank in our Mark 1-1.5 boats, it does make access to things like the rudder stuffing box a pain.

I replaced mine with a 23 gallon version which is much easier to remove as well as access things on the sides and aft.  Since I've removed my holding tank in favor of a composting head, I'll be buying a new fresh water tank from Ronco which is a drop in for the holding tank.  That will add back some more freshwater tank capacity (30 gallons or so).

Isn't it great that Catalina built us such a great boat which we can pretty easily customize for our particular needs/wants!

Patches

Hi Cliff:

I also have a Mark 1.25. My boat has the propane locker in the aft seat locker—mounted on the platform on the starboard side.  These can be purchased from Catalina Direct (white with blue top) and take the smaller size propane bottles which can be purchased cheaply at any RV supply place. Mine vents from the locker out through the stern to the swim step.

I've never run out of propane during a standard 3 week cruise.  I carry a spare bottle in the port lazarette just in case.

Patches

Hey Antoni:

We will also be sailing around Vancouver Island this summer.  Leaving August 24 from Bainbridge Island and will be going counter-clockwise.

When I made the trip in 2016, the first fuel after rounding Cape Scott turned out to be at Esperanza on the NE corner of Nootka Island.  We were very happy to learn they had fuel there after we topped up in Port Hardy.  Nothing was available in Winter Harbor or Kyuquot in mid September.  Doubling the factory fuel capacity goes a long way on that coast—and in Mexico too.  Great upgrade.

Patches

Thanks to everyone for their input.  For my purposes—somewhat unique dodger design and uncertain long term ownership—I went with the "Crystal Clear" vinyl made by Strataglas.  My online research found good results/reviews with this product, and mixed reviews/results as to whether the Strataglass "coated" vinyl was worth the premium (2X).

I did, however, follow Noah's advice and am having a sunbrella cover made to snap over the vinyl when the boat is not sailing.  Together the cost was about $750.

Patches

Fair point Kevin.  The Dodger material has held up well (Samoid vs. Sunbrella) so that is less of an issue.  It gets a lot of use so scratches are going to be inevitable, and further reading indicates Strataglas scratch protectionis really limited to small lighter-type abrasion.  My long term ownership is unclear, but to be decided in the next 6 months. So I'm leaning toward the replacement with Crystal Clear (also manufactured by Strataglas).

Patches

Forgot to mention:  My dodger material is Samoid, and the glass portion to be replaced is one long piece (roughly 93"long) in the front—not the typical 3 pieces.  So the replacement glass will not ever be rolled up or zipped out. It is either up on the dodger frame or it's not.  I also have two side windows that zip in and extend back to the cockpit coaming.

Was out in 35 knots this past weekend when the lazy sheet snapped onto the dodger and cracked the glass.  The dodger was on the boat when I purchased it 6 years ago, and I have no idea what the glass/vinyl is that was built into it.  It has held up well until now.

My canvas guy has recommended either Crystal Clear or Strataglas for replacement.  The Strataglas is twice the price per square yard than the Crystal Clear. Says the difference is that the Strataglas is "coated" but didn't know much more than that.  Same thickness (30 mil).

Has anyone been faced with the same choice?  If you chose Strataglas, do you think after use it has been worth the premium?

Thanks in advance for your input.

Patches

Allen:

Forgot one more thing:  You're likely going to need a new prop for the Beta 25.  I run a standard 3 blade fixed prop.  My 15" X 10 pitch prop for the Universal 25xp did not work with the new Beta 25.  In order to activate the Beta warranty you need to achieve 3600 rpms, which I was not able to do with that prop. I could only attain 3100rpms.  On Beta's recommendation, I purchased a new 14" X 8 pitch fixed 3 blade and that allowed me to reach 3600 rpms.

Patches

I have removed this 43 gallon water tank from my boat.  No leaks, in excellent condition.  $100.

I live in the Puget Sound area on Bainbridge Island.

Hi Allen:

Feel free to PM me for more specific questions, but here are the main things:

1.  You need to do some surgery on the engine beds to accommodate the undercarriage of the new Beta 25.  As mentioned in a prior post, it's necessary to cut out a roughly 2 X 2 x 6" long notch out of the port engine bed on the inside and farthest aft.  This is to make room for the different TMC 40 transmission.  The shift lever on the TMC is on the port side and on the Hurth was on the right side.

2.  Another necessary notch, one I didn't appreciate until we got the engine mounted on the beds, was for the hose which hangs down from the oil change pump to the oil sump.  It ended up making contact with the starboard engine bed after we lowered it down on the engine mounts.  I opted to cut into the starboard bed to create clearance for the hose with a multi-tool and smoothed with a drum sander attached to a drill motor.  If I had it to do over again, I would cut that notch before securing the engine down.

3.  It was neccessary to raise the engine beds to accommodate the new engine.  I used 3/4" thick pieces of Starboard under each engine mount.  I think 1" would be better, but make sure what is best for your boats engine mounts.  My boat is a 1990 Mark 1.25, and I was going by what Steve of Black Dragon had noted.  His boat was an 1988 Mark 1.

4.  I used stainless hanger bolts to attach the engine mounts. If I ever have to remove the engine again I would rather loosen nuts than completely unscrew long lag bolts.

5.  Depending on whether you have a stuffing box or a PSS, you may not be able to add the Beta supplied flexible coupling without cutting your shaft.  I switched to PSS a few years ago and there was no room for the supplied coupling.  So I mated up the old fashioned way and try to get alignment perfect.

6. You're going to need to re-work your exhaust riser because Beta requires different sizes for the riser diameter and the vented loop to exhaust nipple connections. There will likely be welding involved. I strongly recommend removing the head sink for all this work.  The articulating Vetus water lock muffler (explained in a prior post) is key to getting all the connections from the riser to the hump hose/to the muffler/and lined up with the exhaust hose.

7.  I also had to do a little surgery on the lower companionway stairs (top lip) to accommodate the protruding Beta primary fuel filter housing on the front of the engine.

8.  A new (longer) gear shift cable was required, can't remember if it was a 12', but I think so.  There are good explanations on line and on the Edson website about how to tear apart the binnacle to do this.

9.  If you opt for the "C" panel like I did, you'll find it doesn't fit nicely in the Catalina/Universal cutout in the cockpit.  I ordered the gauges "loose" and then purchased a piece of black ABS (like Steve did) and mounted them using drill bits and hole saws.  I actually bolted the new black panel into the Catalina removable "box" using no.6 bolts and nyloc nuts.  Catalina Direct doesn't sell those boxes anymore, and mine was glued onto the cockpit combing with some pretty ancient sealant.  I used a 1" metal putty knife and gently tapped around the perimeter of the box until it loosened up.  Then I put my new ABS panel in the "box", drilled 6 holes for no. 6 bolts, and permanently attached it.  If I need to get to the back of the panel, I pull the whole box off.  This is also much easier to reach other things around there like the blower, the deck fill for the diesel tank, etc.

Hope this helps,

Patches

100% untrue. I order my new offshore mainsail from Durtek (Sri Lanka, huge loft making sails for bigger brands) through my local sailmaker.  Way cheaper than CD, and with my local sailmaker to inspect, design and QC the sail. Working with him I customized the reefpoints (very deep second reef), and extra leather hand work on the corners.

Came complete with Catalina 34 logo. Also came with Rutgerson hardware and I ordered it to be compatible with a new Strongtrack luff slide.

After two years of using it as a charter boat 3X/day, 6 days/week, during the season it has held up beautifully.

So, no, any sail loft should be able to ge the C34 logo on the sail.

Patches

Ron's right.  What matters is that your rig is tuned and not what it looks like in the partners.  After tuning by a professional rigger, my mast sits very close to the starboard side of the partners and (comparatively) very far from the port side of the mast partners/deck opening.

Was one of the reasons I eventually went with Spartite to space (and seal) the mast within the partners:  wedges were shifting and falling out, and would have needed to be quite different in width to actually keep it from shifting while under sail.

This is also fairly common.  Spartite says as much in its instructions.  Most keel stepped masts are not "centered" in the partners when tuned.

Or, you can always get a c34 Mark II and problem solved.

P

Hi Paul:

I was faced with similar choices a few years ago.  My boat had the original Harken Mark 1 furler.  I first tried correcting it with a halyard restrainer, and it didn't really solve the problem.  After considerable research, I replaced it with a new Harken Mark 4 after asking my rigger about what he would put on his own boat.  The price was pretty good from Fisheries Supply, who had it drop shipped directly to me from Harken. 

I also went with the "long leg" extensions to get the genoa off the deck and for better visibility.  It has performed beautifully.  As a sailboat charter, I go out 12-18 times a week and it has never let me down in all kinds of conditions.

Patches

I just applied the Spartite solution to my mast partners.  As mentioned above, the tuned mast is not centered (side to side) in the deck collar.  It is about 3X wider on the port side than on starboard.  Spacing is fairly even fore and aft.

The "small" size Spartite kit has more than enough material to complete the "plug" on our Mark 1s.  It comes with everything you need, and the directions are very good.  I did have to use some 2" Blue painter's tape for a dam above the lip of the collar.  Spartite recommends that you pour 1/4" above the height of the collar, and the tape allows you to do that.  Otherwise, everything you need is in the kit.

As with every project, the lengthiest part was the prep. I removed the old boot which was the flexible, sticky type and the tape which finished it off.  It took a fair amount of time to remove this material from the mast with a plastic blade scraper and adhesive residue remover.  This was followed by building the "floor" for the pour with the supplied modeling clay.  This took several hours because of the narrow space on the starboard side of the partners, and a desire to make the floor as smooth and even as possible.

Then vaseline is applied to the inside of the collar and the clay floor to act as a release agent when/if the mast is pulled.

The mixing of the 2 part material is pretty straightforward and, as Alex says above, goes quickly.  If I have any advice, it is (1) to avoid pouring during any wind and (2) have a plastic measuring cup to pour the material into the narrower side of the partners.  Although Spartite claims that the material is self leveling, it is also the consistency of molasses.  So when I started pouring, it started to pile/pool on the wider port side of the mast because it's thickness took awhile to get around to the thinner starboard side.  Having a 2 cup measuring cup with a spout allowed me to pour into the thinner starboard side which facilitated the "self leveling."

As I was pouring some wind came up and blew a little bit of the material on to the deck.  I had placed an old towel around the area to pick up any drips and this turned out to be a good idea.  However, the wind got ahold of some of the material and it ended up on the deck.  This is cleaned up with alcohol or acetone--not paint thinner.

The finished product inspires confidence that the mast will neither move in the partners nor leak. It needs 48 hours to fully cure.  I'm finishing off the project with a new boot.  Spartite says you should protect the exposed material with some form of cover, and that you can simply paint it if you'd like.

So far, so good.

Patches