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Messages - Patches

#16
Main Message Board / Re: Raymarine EV100 install input
December 23, 2022, 10:00:27 AM
Antoni:

New water heater is mounted low in the wet locker between the head and chart table.  It is an Isotemp cylindrical-type heater.  For me, completely worth getting it out from under the galley sink where I now have better storage and access for my water filtration system, other plumping, and wires from the new battery bank to the engine.  Plus, anodes are very easy to replace on the new water heater.

I still have access for a shelf (or two) above the water heater--or a slide out drawer--if I ever get around to that...
#17
Main Message Board / Re: Raymarine EV100 install input
December 23, 2022, 07:31:00 AM
Thank you for the replies!

A few seasons ago I did a makeover of the area underneath the galley sink, so Alex's solutions are certainly possibly.  The hot water tank no longer lives under there, but I have backfilled that acquired space with a freshwater manifold for the ship's water and a filtration system. The platform where the old water heater sat is now a dishpan which is screwed in place and holds various cleaning supplies--much like what is found under kitchen sinks at home.  I have a large opening and a couple of hinged doors where the drawer used to be.  So I will see what the possibilities for the sensor core look like in that same corner which Alex used.  May not work because I also rotated the old 12" X 12" access door to the water heater 90 degrees and installed a "tilt out" trash bin.

Otherwise mounting both in the aft cabin might be the easiest. 

Patches

#18
Main Message Board / Raymarine EV100 install input
December 21, 2022, 12:23:09 PM
After 32+ years of faithful service, and rebuilding/replacement of many parts, I'm retiring my original Autohelm 4000.  I caught the EV100s on sale at Defender for a great Black Friday price and will be installing one this winter.

I've got a 1990 Mark 1.25.  Any recommendations/tips for placement of the various components?  Where did you end up placing:

1. the Sensor Core

2.  the Control Box

Thanks!

Patches
#19
I'm continuing to use my M25XP engine--only changing out the transmission for now.  Not much, but some, value in the replaced HBW 50 as a rebuildable core.

My understanding is the Beta 30 uses a different (and larger) Kubota core and would be tighter in my Mark 1 engine compartment.  The local Beta dealer came down to the boat and confirmed this.
#20
Main Message Board / Federal Flexible Coupler: Opinions?
December 20, 2022, 03:41:00 PM
In replacing my transmission, I have to be cognizant of the space between the stern tube and new transmission.  I'm losing 4mm of that space due to the new transmission (Twin Disc/TMC 40P).  I also went with a PSS dripless two years ago when I replaced my prop shaft.

Some sort of flexible coupler is recommended.  Presently, I just have a basic split/rigid coupler.  It looks like the Federal 43A flexible coupler would be a good application here due to its compact size.  I know several owners have installed them.

Has anyone had a bad experience with one of these?  I'm told they are a pretty old school design--which is not a bad thing at all.  I'm hoping it would be the right application here and would appreciate any input.   Again, going to a Bullflex (or other model) flexible coupler looks like it will increase the overhang (of the prop shaft aft of the P strut) too far.

Thanks,

Patches
#21
Yes, TMC = "Twin Disc."
#22
With roughly 2500 known hours on my M25XP and original Hurth HBW50 transmission, it has become time to replace the Tranny. I didn't think this would be a big deal because I had purchased a "rebuilt" HBW50 on Craigslist ($300), complete with invoice from Harbor Marine in Everett, WA.  Only it probably wasn't rebuilt by them. 

As I learned from Mike in the tranny shop--super guy, and very knowledgeable--it is a not uncommon scam to sell one of these representing it as "rebuilt' and with a Harbor Marine invoice showing the rebuild.  I live close by and brought in my transmission so he could verify whether it had, in fact, been rebuilt by them.  He showed me why (output shaft had some play and no evidence of the sealant they use when putting the transmission case back together) they probably did not do the rebuild.

So the choices come down to (1) rebuild or (2) replace.  Very few people recommend rebuilding a 30 year old Hurth HBW50.  They don't enjoy a great reputation, and the rebuild cost I was quoted from Mike was roughly $1800 and 30 days out.

As for replacement, it is either stay with an upgraded Hurth (ZF12m) or go to one of the new transmissions with the cone-type clutches.  Both are bolt-on replacements.  These are either the Newage PRM-60 or the TMC40P.  The PRM and TMC are very, very similar but with small dimensional differences.  It bears mentioning that Harbor Marine used to sell the Newage PRM60s but no longer does.  Ask Mike about that.

Common issues to both:

--you've got to remove the bell housing to unbolt the HBW50 and to install the new Transmission.  At a minimum, that means I'm going to lift out the engine into the galley area to do this.
--you've got to replace the damper plate with a new Sachs while its out.
--as long as its out, replace the 32 year motor mounts with new.

Cost/Benefits of the ZF12m:

--gear shift on the same side as the HBW50 (no surgery on the engine bed)
--its more expensive ($2300)
--its bigger dimensionally than the PRM or TMC which means both raising the engine higher and cutting down your prop shaft as the "overhang"--distance from front of prop to cutless bearing/P strut--will increase by 1.5 inches.
--I couldn't find anyone who recommends them over the PRM or TMC alternatives. In a telling post from 2016 or so, Maine Sail basically endorsed running away from the new ZFs and to the TMC40.
--gear ratio is 2.14:1 vs. original 2.05:1 for HBW 50.

Cost benefits of the PRM/TMC:

--less expensive ($1260 for the TMC)
--smaller dimensionally.  When installed you have to raise an M25XP 5.5mm due to lower output shaft on the TMC 40, and the "overhang" (distance from prop to strut--usually a shaft diameter (1")-- increases only 4mm).
--shift lever on the port side.   This means a little more effort to adjust the shifting cable and/or adjust the cone clutch (which is represented as being "self adjusting" but which may need to happen sometimes).  The adjustment of the cone clutch is actually covered in the TMC40 and PRM60 manuals.
--Have to cut away a small area of the port engine bed rail, just aft of the rear port motor mount, to make room for the port side shift lever.  (roughly 1" deep and 3" long)
--Have to alter the location of the Heat Exchanger to access the dip stick and fill.  As you know, that is already difficult with the HBW50.  I have to loosen my 3" Sea Kamp HX to fully extract the dip stick.  Noah has a great post on how and where to relocate your heat exchanger for better maintenance access on the tranny, so I am going to do that anyway.
-gear ratio is 2:1 vs. 2.05:1 for HBW 50

Choosing the TMC40:

Based on overwhelming positive reviews vs. the ZF12m, I chose the TMC40P.  This was reinforced after I spoke with Joe DeMers at Sound Marine Diesel (CT) who is a Beta dealer and who sells a lot of TMC transmissions as well.  Generous with his time over the phone, he went through all the considerations when putting in a replacement transmission for my engine.  There is also a Beta Marine document titled "Conversion from ZF5 (Hurth HBW50) to TMC40" which fully explains those considerations.

I ordered my TMC transmission ($1259), 4 new motor mounts at $49/each, and new shift bracket and hardware ($98) from Joe.

(FYI: The motor mounts are dimensionally the same ones that Catalina Direct sells for $180/each!)

By the way, I also went down the road of doing a complete re-power with a Beta 25.  I'm pulling the engine anyway to replace the transmission.  Problem is that on the left coast there are no Beta 25s in stock.  Serious supply chain issues in getting Kubota cores to Beta in England.  Earliest "projected" arrival--which is very soft--is March 2023.  If you're not on the left coast, they have stock out of North Carolina.  I operate as a charter boat so I need better definition than that and don't want to interrupt the season for an engine replacement.  But, when the supply increases I can buy a new Beta 25 "bobtail" and attach the TMC40 to it.

Hope this helps anyone having similar issues/thoughts.

Patches
#23
Main Message Board / Re: Integral water tanks
December 10, 2022, 10:10:35 AM
Having much of my boat torn up and exposed at the moment (1990 Mark 1.25), the best area for additional tankage seems to be the bow area under the V-berth.  The space under the aft berth isn't very big and also nice to have access to engine cabling,wire runs, muffler, and shaft log.

Getting rid of my marine head and holding tank, as well as the aft water tank, has me thinking about replacing the old holding tank with a new Ronco 30 gallon fresh water tank.  They can be bought new off the shelf for a few hundred $ and slot right in.  I dislike the crowding to the quadrant and access to the aft thruhulls/hoses presented by the aft water tank (I recently removed it to replace cockpit scupper hoses and engine exhaust hose, and have left it out.)  So I am seriously considering conversion of that space for items that are needed for the shorter term and which can be removed easily for any maintenance items back there.

Also, having had the Galley floor removed and cutting into the floor to run new wires directly to the engine--eliminating the old wiring through the panel switch--I can say there is not a lot of room there for integral tanks.

Again, for me, this is all made possible by the decision to remove the marine head and holding tank in favor of a porta-potti/Airhead composting head.  No regrets there at all.  But I'm also not the kind of owner likely to attempt integral tankage, preferring the modular tankage which is relatively easy to install--and replace-- in our boats.  Even if I put in a new Port settee Ronco water tank, I still have a fair amount of space to work with (1) under the V-berth and (2) made available with the removed aft water tank.

Like Kevin, I've put in a flexible bladder tank in a prior boat.  But I didn't love the taste of the water from that water bladder, or the way it shifted in the hull space.  So I don't think I'd do that again.

Patches
#24
Holger:  Very interesting, and thanks for passing this on.  We are planning on a trip south and west from the PNW in Summer/Fall 2024, intending to go down to New Zealand and back.  I love my C34, but have questioned her suitability for that trip.  Reinhard and his wife, with proper planning and equipment, crossed both the Atlantic and Pacific in their Mark 1.5--a wing keel model too.

I keep thinking there isn't enough storage, but they found enough room for a piano, other musical instruments, a bunch of stuffed animals, and a water maker too!  Wow.

Nice to see their Hydrovane set-up, and interesting decision to go with a Solent rig up front.

I also keep thinking that the boat is a little light, but the Travelift operator during my haul out a few weeks ago said I was "15,000" pounds.  This is while fairly unloaded.  I have removed the marine head, holding tank, and aft water tank, and had about a half tank of fuel at the time.

Maybe we will take her.
#25
Main Message Board / Re: Expensive mistake
October 25, 2022, 11:04:11 AM
Rob:

Good questions.  I do not have a galvanic isolator, but have been giving that a lot of thought after replacing the prop.  All the docks and electrical in my Marina were replaced within the past 6 years with new.  So I don't suspect anything on the marina end.

I do not hook up to shore power often.  I upgraded my whole electrical system two years ago with a new house bank consisting of 3 Firefly AGMs.  As part of that upgrade, I added a new Sterling charger, Balmar external regulator, and 105 amp alternator--all purchased from Mainsail.   I also operate as a charter boat doing daysails so the boat motor/alternator comes on for at least 30-45 minutes/day, 5-6 days/week.  That is slowing down now.  But the "state of charge" on my house bank is rarely below 95%, even with my Engle cooler continuously "on." 

So, I'm not sure what the culprit is.  But I'm seriously considering adding a galvanic isolator as soon as I get the boat splashed and home.

Patches
#26
Main Message Board / Expensive mistake
October 22, 2022, 08:27:08 AM
I swapped out my bronze prop shaft for a stainless one about 1+ years ago, and did a new PSS dripless shaft seal at the same time.  New zincs (2) were put on the prop shaft, and a clam shell-type on the strut.

With the old bronze shaft, I didn't seem to have to replace zincs more than once/season.  I just hauled out, and the zincs on my stainless shaft were completely gone.  Worse, my fixed 3 blade Michigan Sailer (original) had started to de-zinc and had to be replaced.  The zinc on the strut was still in place, although close to spent.

One "boat buck" later, and I have a new Michigan Sailer 3 blade, 15 X10, prop.  I was a bit fortunate to source one locally from the Prop Shop in Mukilteo, WA, who had one in stock.  Everywhere else said it would be 6-14 weeks to get one.  I was told that the "Sailer" types are made offshore, and part of the reason for the wait.  The Michigan MP3 3 blade props are easy to find, and much cheaper too ($600-700).

Anyway, anecdotally at least in my case, it seems the zincs need replacement more frequently with the stainless shaft/bronze prop set-up. 

What is the frequency that others change zincs with this set-up in salt water?  Every 6 months?  More frequently?

Your input is appreciated.

Patches
#27
PH:

When I bought my boat the original Autohelm 4000 (wheel pilot type) was also not working.  I chased it down to a broken pinion sprocket, and bought a replacement from the "3D" printer/parts guy for some crazy amount of money--considering the size of the part.

But, I got 4 more years of use out of it.  Recently, the locking mechanism to engage the belt to the pinion sprocket has decided to disengage--or not fully engage.  I've had it apart several times to try to fix it, but am thinking of just getting a new EV-100 to replace.

Anyway, it might be an easy fix for under $100 in the short term. But if, as mentioned, it is an Autohelm 4000 replacement parts are tough to source and you're likely going to have to eventually upgrade.  Once you figure out what parts are bad, let us know.   If I pull the trigger on a new EV-100, I'm happy to send parts from mine for the cost of shipping.

Patches
#28
Main Message Board / Re: New Bomar hatch installation
October 07, 2022, 12:46:08 PM
Alex:

I bought the Lewmar front hatch for about $600 during a Defender sale a couple of years ago.  I guess it might be the 'infinite hinge."  The original "roll stop"--or whatever they called it--had long ago failed and so I decided to replace it.  So my situation was a little different because the hatch would not stay propped open.

The mounting holes on the new hatch don't exactly line up with the original, and I recall there was something a little more difficult about attaching the flange closest to the mast because my Mark 1.25 has a lip in the deck there that more recent models don't. 

But, it went in and I'm happy with the result.

Patches 
#29
Main Message Board / Re: New Bomar hatch installation
October 06, 2022, 06:15:55 PM
I highly recommend butyl tape.  I put in a new Lewmar Ocean hatch (trapezoidal) a few years ago and used butyl.  No leaks, and easy to work with.

Patches
#30
Main Message Board / Re: Engine inlet thru-hull
September 06, 2022, 06:29:32 AM
Paul:

Very easy, I do this a few times a year.  I keep a piece of wooden dowel about 16 inches long in the cabinet above the head.  I typically:

1.  Close the engine inlet thru-hull

2.  Remove the hose from the thru-hull

3.  have the dowel at the ready

4.  open the engine thru-hull  (water ingress is minimal, and goes straight to the bilge)

5.  push the dowel down through the thru-hull to clear the obstruction.

6.  close the thru-hull and reconnect hose.

I have changed out my strainer to a Vetus which I find much better to access and view.  I mounted mine just below the secondary Racor fuel filter, but I have the original "R24" type filter so it fits.  I am changing out to the Racor 500fg over the winter, which will require me to move the Vetus strainer over to the fiberglass wall inside and to the right of the sink cabinet door opening.  I already installed an RV-type plastic fuel door just below the shower sump pump switch to make accessing the strainer easier once I complete the installation.

Patches