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Messages - Patches

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Main Message Board / Whisker pole questions
« on: April 30, 2021, 01:53:29 PM »
I couldn't help myself and I bought a fixed length pole (16') yesterday off craigslist for $100.   My intention is to use it to pole out the genoa when sailing deeper downwind--not as a spinnaker pole.  But its a beast, and came off a Halberg Rassy 43.  4" aluminum tube with a bayonet fitting for the inboard end and jaws on the outboard end.  I wanted a fixed length pole for strength and maintenance.  Too many stories about the adjustable ones breaking whether line control or twist/lock.

Anyway, curious to know from those who regularly use their whisker poles:

(1) whether you store it vertically at the mast or on deck?

(2) whether you wish you had chosen to store it differently and why?

(3) recommendations for singlehanders?

(4) type of mast track and hardware used for vertical storage?

Thanks in advance!


I gave this whole issue a lot of time and thought when I replaced my original bronze shaft with stainless in December. After buying a new stuffing box and flax, I changed my mind completely in the middle of the project and went with a PSS dripless.   Couldn't be happier, and super easy to install (although I was on the hard).  No drips, no leaks, no adjustments. 

Anyone need some "like new" stuffing box wrenches and new flax?  $30 + shipping.


Main Message Board / Re: stringer location
« on: April 26, 2021, 11:50:02 AM »
I also followed Jon's lead when doing my new battery/wiring upgrade this winter.  I used 1AWG from batteries to starter/solenoid (and from AO to back to batteries), routed underneath galley floor to engine compartment like in Jon's photo. Cut a 6" X 6" access panel in the FG floor pan under the teak and holly floor to help fish those larger cables.  The floor pan is 1" thick, cored with 3/4" marine ply:  very strong.

Now have nothing going from the batteries through the panel (to the motor) in either direction. Was able to re-purpose the existing channels/conduit running under the head/wet locker to route wires for the new Balmar external regulator mounted in the aft cabin to the battery compartment.

Seems like I took out acres of original #4 wire, none of it tinned copper.

Main Message Board / Re: Mounting new Primary winches near helm
« on: April 17, 2021, 11:18:29 AM »
Thank you George, that is just the kind of advice I was hoping for!

I ended up buying some pre-cut 5" round X 1/4" thick Starboard ($17 at Buck Woodcraft online) which I plan to use as backing plates for the new Anderson winches.  After eyeballing it from several different angles, I think I am going to first remove the rear panel in the aft aft cabin and see if there is a way of working over the top of the aft starboard closet.  If I recall correctly, there isn't much securing the top of the molded closet interior and I may be able to fit the backing plates and hardware that way.

If not, I like your idea about a Beckson port.


With the recent electrical upgrade came the new CMI 105 amp small frame alternator. For those who have made similar alternator upgrades, what belt manufacturer do you recommend for the 3/8" pulleys on your M25/M25xp engines?



Main Message Board / Re: Mounting new Primary winches near helm
« on: April 11, 2021, 07:13:53 PM »
Thanks Ron:

I'm not sure the Lewmar 46STs are going to fit, or be easily re-located.  When moving the winches back opposite the helm, the width of the coaming decreases from roughly 7" to 6" or less.  My plan is to use some 6" diameter Starboard as a backing plate underneath the new Andersons, which look like they will be a lot easier to fit.

The coaming is not cored anywhere (that I can tell), and the factory installation of the Lewmar 46ST was with simple fender washers and nuts.

Main Message Board / Mounting new Primary winches near helm
« on: April 11, 2021, 05:47:03 AM »
As a charter boat, it is sometimes awkward to trim the genoa due to factory placement of the Lewmar 46ST primaries on my 1990 Mark 1.25.  Someone usually has to shift while I trim.

After looking it over, I decided to buy some new Anderson 40STs and mount them further aft on the coaming.  Both the base diameter (6") and the bolt circle diameter for mounting are smaller than the original Lewmars.  Access on the port side doesn't look too complicated, but starboard side mounting looks like it could involve extreme boat yoga.

Anyone tackled this before and have suggestions/observations to share?



Ditto what Jim said.  Coupler manufacturer should have torque specs for bolting on the coupler.  I changed my coupler in December and used the torque specs from Buck Algonquin (non flexible).

Main Message Board / Engel purchase and install
« on: March 27, 2021, 08:35:35 AM »
After the winter electrical upgrade, I purchased the Engel MT45F-U1CD-P platinum series AC/DC combination Fridge/Freezer.

Fits perfectly on the seat of the aft cabin on my Mark 1.25, with cushion removed, and held in place with some webbing straps.  Still have to wire in a 12 volt plug.

This particular Engel is not cheap ($1000) compared with other portable AC/DC fridge freezers.  But Engel's unique Sawajima swing compressor gets universally high reviews for reliability and low amp draws.  And, in its size which fits on my aft cabin seat, there is nothing else available like it.

In addition, this particular model has two zones, and can be used as (1) all fridge, (2) all freezer, or (3) both fridge and freezer simultaneously. I can also take it out, take it home, take it on the road, or put it on a new boat if I ever lose my mind and sell my perfect (for me) C34.

Review after break-in will follow.


I bought my new Oberdorfer replacement from Ken, and was very happy I did.

I started looking last fall when there were no--zero--pumps anywhere.  I verified this by calling all over the country. Ken responded promptly and put me on his list.  When one pump became available from a source, he nabbed it for me.  He still gave me the C34 discount, and followed up with parts and detailed instructions on how to install it.

So if you are looking for pumps and parts, I would PM Ken and he can probably save you a lot of steps and $.


Main Message Board / OEM Prestolite internal regulators for sale
« on: March 14, 2021, 08:07:02 AM »
I just posted in the "For Sale" forum that I have a couple of used OEM Prestolite/Leece Neville 2017KA (51 amp) alternators for sale.  I just completed an electrical upgrade over the winter, and so if anyone needs one please see the post there.



I did a complete electrical upgrade over the winter, going to an externally regulated CMI 105amp alternator.  I have two of the original OEM 51 amp Prestolite/Leece Neville 2017KA alternators for sale.

1. The one original to my engine was cleaned by an alternator shop and bench tested as putting out the required 51 amps.

2. The second I bought as a spare from another forum member, which I also had bench tested and it too put out the required amps. 

Both are in good working condition and fit my Universal 25XP engine.  They have 3/8" pulleys.

$75 each + shipping.   

Main Message Board / Re: Propane locker vent clogged.
« on: March 07, 2021, 11:11:30 AM »
Hi Mike:

I've got a 1990 Mark 1.25, and I suspect a different set-up for the propane locker. With a 1.5 you've got the walkthrough transom, and I can't remember if the propane locker is glassed in or "dropped in."   Mine was dropped in the aft cockpit lazarette, and mounted on a shelf.

For what it's worth, on my 1.25 there is a short length of hose from the bottom of the propane locker to the vent attached with hose clamps on both ends.  Mine was pretty accessible by removing the locker and the shelf, but it sounds like your's may involve some boat yoga through the aft cabin.

Lots of 1.5 owners on the forum, so hopefully you get a definitive answer.


Main Message Board / Re: Strut bearing puller...
« on: February 23, 2021, 07:30:15 PM »
I don't recommend cutting it with a hacksaw, collapsing it, and pounding it out.  I could tell where a prior owner (or his hire) had done that, and left a score on the inside of the strut.  The bearing is a press fit, which is another reason why you should use the tool.

Assuming you bang it out, you still need to reinstall the new one, and you shouldn't whack that one in with a mallet and a piece of wood blocking.  I'm sure it's done, but the press tool helps assure proper alignment and preservation of the "press fit" while inserting the new one.  Plus the tool--thanks to Dan ("Indian Falls")-- is free to use for the cost of shipping.

As Noah says, to remove the prop shaft, just press out the cutless bearing and move the prop shaft aft past the rudder.  And as I found out in December when I did this job, there was a preferred side of the rudder (i.e. more room) to slide the prop shaft past.  On my boat, it was the port side of the rudder.


Main Message Board / Re: on-the-hard to do list
« on: February 22, 2021, 02:02:16 PM »
Good time to check your cutless bearing, and maybe remove your prop for cleaning.  Otherwise, looks like a good list.


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