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Looks like everything but charts!

After 10 years of great memories we have sold our beloved 34.  The boat is staying local and I am looking forward to seeing it bring many more years of enjoyment to its new owners.  The first thing I told the new owner was to join this fantastic owners group. 

Thank you to everyone who has contributed and oversees this site to make it arguably the best association out there. 

The search for our new 42 is officially on!

Happy sailing friends! 

Thank Ron! I ordered new K75 mounts this week as well.  The arrived today.  They have a curved washer between the bottom and top nut.  Does the washer go on top on the lower height adjusting nut, our below the top nut?  I am suspect below the top nut, but the they don't come with instructions. 

Thank in advance. 

When applying bottom paint this week I noticed the shaft is just touching the bottom aft edge of the stern tube where it exits the boat.  The shaft has never been centered in the shaft where it exits the tube, but I have never noticed it to touch the bottom of the tube.

The cutlass bearing has not play, and does appear to have any uneven wear.  The boat is still in the cradle, I do understand this can "bend" the boat a bit, but the shaft seems to low.  I also noticed some additional vibration sounds late last year.  I am thinking the mounts have compressed a bit causing the engine to sit a bit lower changing the angle the share exits the tube causing it to just touch the tube. 

The boat is set up with a dripless log and federal flex coupler. 

I am thinking one or two turns on each corner would be enough to lift the engine enough to increase the shaft angle and prevent it from touching the tube and should keep the alignment close enough that I can fine tune it once the boat sits in the water for a week or so and "straightens out'.

Thoughts or suggestions? 

Does anyone have pictures of the new windlass once installed.  I am looking to do this upgrade as well.  I have been running the chain through the drum and tailing it for years.  Not the best set up but it works.  Had enough of muddy hands with lots of little metal bits that strip off the drum as the chain shreds the drum.

We used permateek. Not for any other reason then the distributor is close and he was great to work with.  It's the little things like all the "Holly" lines up perfectly from panel to panel.

Sent from 10 miles west of O'Donnell point on Georgian bay!

Finally got some pics.  Love the decking.  Softer on feet, very grippy, and we really like the look.  We are having the cockpit combings done soon and I would like to do the side decks if I can justify the cost. 

Nothing beats the look of beautifully maintained natural teak decking.  We have also really liked the looks and feel of the synthetic teak finding it's way onto many new boats. 

We decided we liked it enough to have our C34 done.  The cockpit is pieces are done and being installed next week.  See pic.

They will  template decks for install later in the season so we don't lose any time from our already short season.  I will send pics after install next week.

Cheers,

We did a cutlass bearing, federal coupling, and Feathering  J prop upgrade 4 years ago.  In hindsight I should have done the shaft at the same time.  Not sure what boats are able to get the shaft past the rudder, but I can tell you on my fin keel MK11 it was not going to happen.  The extra 1/4 of play I got by pushing out the bearing first made it closer but still a long way from "sliding past"  I read the articles first saying it could be done as well!  I would like to hear from a MK11 boat that made it work.  The worst part about dropping the rudder is digging the hole.  If you are on pavement your kinda screwed.  Once you dig a hole deep enough to clear the rudder shaft, it's a 30 minute job to drop the rudder.  Gives you a good reason to do a full steering system inspection while you are jammed into the aft lockers.

Cheers,

CM

Change the hose, then you know it's not the issue!  Pop the old hose off at the tank vent, barb the new and old hose together and work the new hose hose into position.  Ten minutes tops.  Change the hose, it ten bucks and you know for sure.

Our you could build a custom tank like I did with a 1 inch hose vented forward thru the hanging locker just below the rub rail and get rid of the flawed stantion vent that came from the factory. 

Deck stepped mast present zero safety concerns vs a keel stepped mast. Both styles have pro's and cons related to leaks, and ease of stepping.   You will have lots of other things going wrong if breaking or dis-masting is a concern. 

Hi Dave, there is large Circlip (outside style) on the shaft behind the wheel. This likely what you found in the cockpit. You will pay 50 times what it's worth from edson. I bought my replacement from an industrial fastener supplier. I could not get it in stainless but the steel one has been there for years since the original broke.

Hi George, that big alternator is only along for the ride unless you batteries need the amps.  If your batteries are full (solar or other) the effect on your engine is nill.  The biggest change you can make is a clean bottom good prop.  We are fresh water so we haul every 6 months for winter and and keep a really clean bottom.  We run a feathering J prop ( adjustable) and get similar fuel consumption.

We run 2400 rpm at 6.5 knots all day (calm conditions) and burn less then .75 gallon per hour.  We calculate our range at 1 gallon and hour for peace of mind. 

I figure our range under power is 25 gallons at .75 gallon per hour or about 215 miles.  Even if you could manage 15% better range you are only getting another 30 miles. 

I may what you need. We just did a total replacement after we damaged the mast. The parts are all sitting at th marina still. PM Me and let me know what you need before the old rig ends up in the scrap pile.

Finally got the sails up and all the little things back together and tested everything yesterday.  Everything  seems really good.  Still a bit of mast running to do as I suspect the shrouds will stretch a touch after they a have a couple of good sails on them. The new system looks great and the boom and goose neck fitting is excellent design.  The turnbuckles are the open design which is also a nice change from the covered ones from the factory and the sta lock fittings look very cool.  The new style sails slides allow the mast to go up without even touching the winch and the sails drops like a stone when released.  All in all it was a PIA but the rig is awesome and a great improvement to the boat.  I am rarely impressed by a mechanic, but I can't say enough about James from Bayport.  He was methodical and his workman ship is excellent.  Thank you.