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I also disagree on a couple of points. First, multigrade oils don't really "thicken up" at higher temperatures. All oils thin down at higher temperatures, but multigrade thins down less than single grade. So a 15W40 oil will be as thin as 15W single grade at low temperature, and as thin as 40W single grade at high temperature. It's still thinner at high temperature, just not as thin as a 15W would be at high temperature.

Also, the motor's operating temperature is the same in all weather. It's all about cold starts, and how quickly oil gets to all the moving parts when starting cold. So in shoulder season, when you may be starting up at temps as low as 40F in the morning, a multigrade oil will protect your engine better because it's thinner at cold temperature than a heavier single grade. My feeling is that if it's cold enough that you need glow plugs, then you may need multigrade oil.

But take all this with a grain of salt. I'm no expert - I just play on on TV.   

I left work early today heading to New Jersey to buy the switch. I really did want to buy from a brick and mortar store, and there's a big Catalina dealer there who had the part in stock. Google Maps said it was an hour away, and I thought I was beating rush hour. I drove for 40 minutes, and Google Maps said it was still over an hour away, so I gave up, went home, and ordered it off of ebay. I tried.

On the way home I stopped at the boat, taking advantage of the rare opportunity to beat the darkness after work. I reached back under the port side of the motor to feel for the switch, and I felt the end of a wire dangling down on my wrist. I looked at it and it was the female end of the flat-blade connector with a broken tab in it. So that's the problem - the tab broke off the switch. I assume that the tab had been "hanging on by a thread", allowing the motor to run a couple final times without the alarm.

While I wait for the new switch to arrive, I'll make a shunt and try to test the alarm with shunt on and off.

Still unexplained is the malfunctioning tach, and also the very dim alarm light. But one thing at a time. I'll dig into the wiring schematic a little more to get more familiar. A quick glance at the schematic looks like an open oil switch might possibly cause some interference with the alternator voltage going to the tachometer. I'm not sure because I don't fully understand the alternator symbols in the schematic.

I was surprised that the glow plug needs to be activated for lift pump to operate - I had missed that part in the manual and critical upgrades. All summer and early fall I started up without heating the glow plugs at all. I'd just turn on the key and press the start button. The manual describes a two-button installation that requires both buttons to be pushed, but Catalina's panel only has one button and doesn't require you to turn turn the key past the detente position to engage the starter, and the schematic suggests that also.

One of my complaints is that there are so many versions of the manual out there. My hardcopy version that came with the boat is 1997 vintage, and is a different part number (#200494) from the ones online (#200550). One key difference is that my parts identification page clearly shows a sender (not a switch), and it's in a different location from where the switch is on my motor. And, infuriatingly, my 1st edition 1997 version covers models M35A and M35B, but the 2nd edition 2015 version on Westerbeke's site covers M35A but not M35B. I'm left with trying to piece things together from a hodgepodge of conflicting manuals.

I'd consider it if the dealers were closer and had hours that wouldn't require me leaving work. For a commodity like oil, I'll buy the refiners brand - which, as you know, is the same thing that Kubota does. I'll eventually find quart bottles, since I have a bunch of Home Depots and Walmarts within 10 miles of my house, and I drop by there for many other things anyway.

Ken,

Thanks for your patient advice, which I will follow closely. First, I'll order a new pressure switch (#037323). Next time I go to the boat I'll attempt to disconnect it and shunt the leads to see if it generates an alarm. I'm also curious to see if the warning light is any brighter with the shunted connection.

From the parts manual, it looks like the switch is in a very inaccessible place for our boats (my boat has no access panel through the head to port side of motor). Any hints on how to see and work back there? Borescope? GoPro on selfie stick?

Also, it's clear that there are elbow fittings and tubing leading from the block to the switch. Any recommended cleaning or maintenance of that while I'm back there? Should I just remove the whole assembly?

Also, the perspective of the schematic in the parts manual is very confusing. I immediately focused on the dipstick, which I swear it shows going into the port forward corner, not aft starboard. This makes it look like an Escher drawing, and really threw off my perspective. (I briefly hoped that the switch was on the starboard side, which is much more accessible.) Is this correct on the drawing? Did Catalina relocate the dipstick due to the slanted installation of the motor?

One last piece of information:

I read advice somewhere (maybe here, but can't remember) to drill a hole in your oil filter to drain it before removing it, but to be sure your oil filter would come off before doing this. Even though I wasn't sure I would drill a hole, I decided to check the tightness of the filter before warming up the oil.  So I got a wrench and turned it about 1/8" to verify it would come off, then I tightened it back again. Could any of this activity have damaged the oil filter seal thus lowering oil pressure? I see no signs of leakage.

Of course, the most nervewracking part is needing to warm up the oil before I pump it out, knowing an alarm is going off telling me not to run the motor. So I guess I need to convince myself that the sensor really is bad before running the motor again. And if I need to remove the oil to replace the sensor, I'm sort of up a creek.

I'd hire a mechanic, but Philly area is not a place that's known for good pleasure boat mechanics. I'm open to suggestions if someone knows a person. Meanwhile, I value any advice you guys could provide.

Ken and Fred,

Thanks for your help. As always, a few additional questions and more information:

Until tonight, I had never seen the oil pressure light illuminate under any circumstances. But I went back to the boat after dark tonight to pick something up and figured it would be good to check it in the dark to be sure. I energized the console and turned the key on. The oil pressure light came on immediately, but was so dim that there is no way it would be visible in daylight. (See attached picture.) Interestingly, the buzzer alarm hesitated for a few seconds before it came on, but once on it stayed on. Is the weak illumination and/or the delayed alarm buzzer a sign of a poor electrical contact? Could I have bumped something somewhere on the motor when reaching around for the dipstick hole?

Do you think any of this has a connection to the tachometer problem, which only started malfunctioning when this alarm problem happened? Could all of these problems (buzzer, light, tach) be related to a single bad connection somewhere? Where does the tachometer connect to the motor?

From searching parts lists, it looks like the switch that you guys referenced and the sender are two different parts. I can only find the sender on the manual's parts identification page. I see a breakdown of the switch in this site's downloadable service manual, but it doesn't give the location (and the manual is for M25, not M35). Where is the switch located on the M35B? I can't find its location in any documentation.

From the M25 service manual, it looks like the switch is a spring loaded contact that opens a circuit when under suitable pressure, and the spring closes the circuit when not under pressure (hence the buzz and the light). Its hesitancy to come on at first, then its refusal to turn off, suggests it might be "gunked up" or something. Can this part be removed and cleaned? Is it possible that new, clean oil could eliminate the problem? Also, whether I try this first or just do a replacement, does the oil need to be emptied before doing the job? (Ironically, I just took a 4 day hands-on diesel troubleshooting workshop last week, and learned how to do a whole bunch of stuff. I learned to check injector timing and adjust valves, but diagnosing and fixing oil and temp sensors were not covered.)

It sounds like I need to be planning to purchase a new oil switch. Does anyone know if there is a suitable Kubota part available? Up here in Pennsylvania there are a lot more tractor stores than marine stores.

Ken - Thanks for your prior offer to help with the fiber washer. After much searching, I finally found a fiber washer for the transmission dipstack - 40 cents at a True Value store that I dropped in on about an hour from my house. It was 16 mm ID, and about 2 mm wide. I found it a few days ago, and put it in this morning. FYI, the rubber O-ring held up OK while I searched for the fiber washer.

Yes, I have checked at 4 local Walmart stores. Some stores have no Rotella T or T4 - only T1, T5, and T6. The ones that have it have T4 by the gallon (no quarts) and quarts of T (no gallons). I think they are in the middle of a transition, trying to get rid of the Rotalla T quarts before the fill the pipeline with Rotella T4 quarts.

I've decided I'm going with T4, and bought two gallons. I'll probably fill an empty quart bottle to meet ongoing top-off needs, but only after I fix the other issues mentioned on another thread.

I suspect that there's no problem inter-mixing T4 and T, but why risk it? I'm going to avoid the discontinued stuff just in case.

I could use some help from experienced Catalina owners about a problem I'm having with the oil pressure/high temperature buzzer at the console (newer version located below the wheel).

My boat has been on the hard the past two weeks, and I went to run the motor to heat up the oil for an oil change. Upon turning the key, the alarm came on (as it does sometimes, but not always). But after starting up, the alarm continued.  I know it was not over temperature because it had just started up, temp gauge was still pegged at the bottom, water coming out of exhaust, and IR temperature gun showed no sign of overheating on the engine. Also, neither the oil pressure warning light or high temperature light were illuminated.

The buzzer has never gone off in this way throughout the season - only since the boat has been on the hard. I started the motor about 10 times, and the alarm was on for about 8 of the starts. So the problem seems to be intermittent, but happening about 80% of the time.

Other info:

• When the motor first fires, tach goes up to 1000 for a split second, then drops to zero if the buzzer is on. During the two startups that the alarm did not sound, one time the tach read properly, and the other time it did not.
• 
  Outside temperature is in the mid 50s. Glow plugs were heated during first startup. Slight voltage drop indicated that they were active.

During the season I did notice a slight problem with the audio alarm, but it was different from this. When I first turned on the key prior to pressing the start button, sometimes the alarm would not sound immediately. When this happened, the alarm would usually come on when I first pressed the start button, then go off a second later after the engine started. As best as I can recall, the audible alarm generally would come on after stopping the motor until I turned the key off (as it should), but there might have been a time or two when it did not. In general, it seemed like this problem with the buzzer would be more likely to happen when things were cold, but I'm not sure of that. I have this issue on my list to fix, and if it's related to my new problem maybe I'll get a two-fer.

The simultaneous problem with the audio buzzer and the tachometer seems to me to point to an electrical connection, perhaps at a corroded common ground. (Would appreciate you help in telling me where this might be located.)  Also, the disappearance of the problem when things were warm could indicate that the corroded connection would heat up and then start to conduct, which of course could be a cause for other concerns.

At present I have not changed the oil due to other problems with my lousy pumping equipment. And I have not winterized because I know I'll want to turn over the motor again.  So I may have some time to try things before next spring if you have ideas.

It seems the Universal manual isn't the greatest help with this, since Catalina uses a custom control panel. Universal's "Captain Control Panel" looks pretty close, but not an exact match for Catalina's. And the Catalina manual seems to have nothing on this. So I come to you for advice. If there is something I'm missing in the manual, or a better version of the manual online, please point me in the right direction.

EDIT: I just started up one more time. This time the buzzer stayed on, but the tach worked. Arrgggh!

[INTRODUCING THE NEXT EVOLUTION OF HARDWORKING PROTECTION]

Just found another page on Shell's website. Looks like there is an imminent product realignment, and Rotella T just might be discontinued at some point, to be replaced with T4:

http://rotella.shell.com/products/triple-protection-plus-technology.html

INTRODUCING THE NEXT EVOLUTION OF HARDWORKING PROTECTION

Shell ROTELLA® is proud to announce a change to our hardworking portfolio of heavy duty diesel engine oils. We wanted to create the most technically advanced Shell ROTELLA® formulation ever. And we did. We also aimed to clearly organize our portfolio so you knew which oil to choose.

As the technology behind Shell Rotella evolves, the hard work that drives us always stays the same. Introducing the new, Shell Rotella T4 Triple Protection®

Our new CK-4-ready Shell Rotella T4 Triple Protection and Shell Rotella T5 Synthetic Blend are already on the market and our expanded portfolio launches in December 2016 when API CK-4 and FA-4 licensing begins.

A new design to help make your hard work easier. Be on the lookout for these new Shell ROTELLA® bottles to arrive beginning this fall at a store near you.

I'm having a hard time finding Rotella T 15-40. I found a couple quart bottles in stock, but so far not enough of them to fill the motor. Can't find gallons, except at West Marine ($27/gallon, more than double the commodity retailers).

I am finding lots of gallon bottles of Rotella T4 (but can't find quart bottles of it  ). T4 seems to be a "new and improved" version. No sign that it's synthetic.

There is no sign of Rotella T on Shell's website, just T1 (straight grade, not multi grade), T4, T5 (synthetic), and T6 (synthetic):

http://rotella.shell.com/products.html

Searching here on "Rotella T4" generates no hits, so this would appear to be a new topic, and thus worthy of discussion.

It looks to me like Shell has realigned their product line to eliminate Rotella T and replaced it with "new and improved" T4.

How does this match up with your guys' experience? Do I really need to go out and get fleeced for an oil that I won't be able to top off next summer after the supply chain has exhausted its inventory?

You over filled it.  Remember cars before the reservoir s?

That was my first suspicion, but I can't find any evidence of that. Where would it overflow from? How would it work its way to the keel sump?

Actually I don't remember cars before the reservoirs.

All of the coolant leaks from our boat have been the connections at the back of the hot water tank.  Very hard to get at!!!

Jack

Great clue! Thanks.

That's one path of leakage that I didn't trace. I'll have to check and see whether the potential leakage path leads to the center or aft section of the keel sump. (I found the coolant in the aft section.)

My hot water tank was replaced about 3 years ago by the prior owner, but that doesn't mean that the fittings are immune.

Over the weekend I moved the boat 75 miles to our winter storage location on the hard. After we were underway I noticed that the coolant reservoir was down from the top line by about 1/4" so I topped it off to the maximum line while underway. A couple hours after we were stopped for the evening (after about 6 hours of motoring) I checked in the bilge and found a surprise (and perhaps a hint) -- a few ounces of green coolant in the bilge! I looked at the reservoir, and it was still topped off. I opened the motor from top, front, starboard side, and under the aft berth and could find no trace of a leak or path of coolant flow along the bilge. At this point the motor was warm, not hot, so I cracked the coolant cap, heard a little hissing, so immediately closed it again with out opening it. (Could this have just been an air pocket leaking out under the pressure head from the elevated reservoir?)

We decided to proceed to our final destination the next morning. I checked the motor while underway and saw no leakage or any other signs of issues. Coolant reservoir maintained its level throughout, and no coolant in the bilge or anywhere in the engine compartment.

Does anyone have any hints of what could have caused a few ounces of coolant in the bilge?

(By the way, I did replace the zinc pencil as mentioned in an earlier post. Thanks for the help with that.)

1.  Those conditions were what we normally got on SF Bay.  While racing, the skippers used the max allowable 130s, I ran my "big" (for me, my other one is an 85%) 110 during the summer and sometimes that was a handful.  A stock 110 working jib for those conditions would suit just fine, IMHO.  The 10% difference would be negligible.  But I'm sure there are many Chesapeake sailors who will add to this based on their personal experiences right where you sail.

Unless someone convinces me otherwise, I'll plan on a 110 for early spring/late fall.

My C250 came with an original 110 and I was very happy with it. It got shredded a bit when a 35 kt cloudless front came through, so when I went to replace it I got another 110 rather than go larger. I was sailing in a narrow river and tacking every 10-15 minutes, so the smaller jib came across very nicely. Even though I'm now sailing where I can go 2 hours or more without tacking, I think a 110 will perform nicely for me without the need to partially furl except in the most severe conditions where all I want is a postage stamp to balance the helm.

On a partially related note, my TR mainsail (fixed food) only has one reef point. I'm thinking of adding a second reef point. Any suggestions on how/where it should be done?

This is my first season (actually only a half-season) on the Chesapeake Bay, so I really do not have enough experience to know exactly how much the seasons differ. From what little I've seen so far (and heard from others), we get 0-10 kts in the dog days of summer (150 works really well) and often 15-20 kts in fall with frequent gusts to 25 or higher.

So my guess is that a 120 would be very comfortable in the fall...unless someone has a better idea.

I think that this question is consistent with the purpose of this entire thread. Let me know if you think I should post it somewhere else.