Messages

I had my anchor locker drain through-hull fitting replaced on my last haul out by the yard. Mine was leaking and I too was constantly getting water in my bow storage compartment. The yard used a new marlon fitting with a wider lip so that more adhesive sealant could be used on the greater surface area. My older fitting a a very small lip. So fat, the bow has remained bone dry!

I guess I will have to change my starting procedure. I have always started my engine with the power cord attached and then as the engine was warming up for a few minutes, I would unplug the shorepower cord, then throw off the dock lines....After seven years, does not seem to be a problem. But I certainly want to prolong the life of my glow-plugs!

I was helping a friend with a C-34, (1988) burp his engine after adding a new HX and exhaust riser and I took the attached picture (wish my engine looked like this!). You can see the knurled knob on the bottom left of the photo (Starbord Side of Engine) right in front of the air filter. Open this knob to bleed the air out of your fuel lines and let the fuel pump run for about a minute.  I have never had to open the bleed valve on my secondary filter (engine mounted). So this may do the trick for you.

Set2,
The M25XP is a Kubota D950 Engine used on the B7200 Kubota Tractor.

Set,
You might love dirty water but you won't like dirty fuel !  If you decide to replace the fuel you can easily pump it out using your boats fuel pump. Once your batteries are installed, make sure your fuel line from the tank is routed to your primary fuel filter/water separator then to the fuel pump input. Disconnect the fuel line to your engine from the fuel pump output and use it to route it to your fuel container. When you turn your ignition key on the first position, your fuel pump will activate and begin pumping your fuel from your tank into your container. You can start and stop this process from your cabin by using your battery on/off switch as needed.

Greg,
I used six coats of Epifanes High Gloss for the build up coats and then three additional final coats of Epifanes Rubbed Effect (matt finish) for a softer look. Plus, the Rubbed Effect is a harder varnish more suitable for walking on, and does not show scuffs like a high gloss finish. Keep in mind that your T&H sole is only a vaneer that is about 1/16 of an inch thick so be careful not to sand through when doing your prep-work. Then cut the varnish on the first three coats 50%, 25% then 10% to fill the grain. I usually thin out about 5% on the remaining coats for better flow. If you choose Rubbed Effect for the last few coats, do not thin it out. I varnished all of my sole boards two winters ago and they all look great.

Paul,
Welcome to the C34 family. If you read this site regularly, you will learn almost everything you will ever need to know about your C34, and it will certainly be one of the greatest aids to helping you fully understand your new boat!

I removed my hand rails to rebed them and did not have any problems re-installing them, although, I did have a helper. Just make sure that you mark the forward and aft sides of the rail. And if you remove both make sure you mark which is port and which is starboard.  I rebed with bytul tape and they have been bone dry ever since. As a thought, have some extra washers available because at least in my case, the acorn nut would sometimes bottom out before the bolt was tight enought to pull completely down on the handrail. I also used a locking washer on under each acorn nut as well. This way you can layer the washers to insure a tight fit. This is an easy job, just time consuming removing all of the old sealant from the deck. If you do choose to remove the hand rails, it is a good time to sand and refinish them, since it is a lot easier once they are removed from the boat. In my case I leave the hand rails natural teak, since I have blue Sunbrella covers which I never remove. All the rest of my teak is varnished. The hand rails are too much work to keep up for me with varnish. FYI

Jim,
That looks like the halyard knot to me. It is supposed to hold well and it is more compact, which is good on the a halyard.

I agree with Ron and Stu.... Longer is better, and I too have a bowline knot on my main halyard schackle. Simpler is better for me. When I notice the line is wearing, I simply cut the line, heat and whip the end, and retie the bowline (I may even try the halyard knot). Just another thought.

I agree with Ron that a bow roller extended to the bow pulpit is far enough. As I explained, at this distance, the Bruce does not hit the boat when deploying or hoisting the anchor even when it swings into position. So I too, do not see a reason to go any further out. The reason I chose my length, is that I had a 33# Bruce and this size fit the anchor best in my opinion.

Ron,
Here is a photo of my extended bow roller that I bought from Garhauer and installed on my boat. I believe that it's length is 29 inches long and it extends out to about the end of the bow pulpit. I had to remove the center bow cleat, and I installed new schaeffer 8 inch stainless bow cleats. With my Bruce Anchor, and windlass, the anchor clears the bow without hitting the boat.

When I had that problem, I epoxy glued some pieces of wood in the corners where the holes are located, drilled a starter hole, and used stainless steel wood screws and it worked like a charm. Just another idea.

Mike,
That vent stantion is close to mid-ship. If you locate the new through-hull under the rub-rail at mid-ship, and you are sailing hard on the wind,  your rail will be in the water, and that vent could be submerged and begin taking on water. Moving it forward eliminates this problem.

Unless someone got that boat for free, it would not be worth it. Eighties vintage C-34's have asking prices in the $35K range all day long here in Southern California. You can easily spend $20K to $30K to rehab a badly damaged boat, and then you still have a salvage boat! Spend the money and go sailing now! Life is short, enjoy it!