Menu

Show posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Show posts Menu

Messages - Les Luzar

#1
Main Message Board / Re: do i have the good transmission
September 24, 2015, 02:56:15 PM
Andre,
Are you having an issue with your transmission? Or is it working fine. If it is working fine, check the transmission fluid level (to make sure you have the correct level), then I would not worry about it as long as it is working fine.
#2
Main Message Board / Re: oil change
September 22, 2015, 09:33:16 AM
I use Delo 400 SAE 30 that I bought at the Captain's Locker, Marine Store. I noticed that it is API CF. CF is for older Diesels. At Walmart the Delo 400LE is SAE 15W-40.  API CJ-4/SM. It says that this is for newer Diesel engines. What is the API for Rotella? And does anyone know if this API difference CJ-4/SM vs API CF makes a difference? I am inclined to stick with my Delo 400 CF. Any thoughts?
#3
Main Message Board / Re: Fin Keel Locations
August 15, 2015, 02:10:26 PM
Stephen,
Don't change the keel. I agree with Ron, put the boat on the market and sell it as is. Full keel boats sell in FL. A friend of mine who lives in FL just sold his Beneteau with a full keel. It isn't worth the expense and energy, to change the keel.  Good luck.
#4
Main Message Board / Re: mainsheet shackle
June 30, 2015, 11:52:14 AM
This is a good example to always keep your eyes and ears alert for anything and everything on a daily basis. Observe and you shall see... At least you caught this issue before you had a major breakdown while sailing!
#5
Main Message Board / Re: halyard size 3/8 or 7/16
June 09, 2015, 10:30:34 AM
I too, when single handing, raise my main at the mast by hand and it goes up with no effort. Then I cleat it off at about 90% raised. Then tail it myself. Then remove it from the cleat and raise it the remainder from the winch. It is better with crew, one raises at the mast, and one tails at the winch. A cam cleat on the mast would be nice for single handing.

Les
#6
Main Message Board / Re: Painting the Engine
May 18, 2015, 01:44:10 PM
Touching up the paint or repainting the engine is not so complicated. Think of it like varnishing teak. The purpose is to protect the engine from corrosion, like varnish protects the teak. It doesn't have to be perfect, just as good as you can do it yourself. I cleaned my engine with a tooth brush and simple green. Just use a cleaner to cut the grease and oil. A dock neighbor uses Dow's Scrubby Bubbles to clean his engine. He sprays his engine with scrubby bubbles, and then uses the hose to clean it off (carefully of course). After cleaning let it dry for a day or so. Then you are good to go (paint). I painted my engine with engine paint that I bought at Pep Boys. Bronze/copper color Engine Paint for $7.99. The Universal paint is $36 or so. Why pay $36 for engine paint. The bronze looks pretty good. Just tape newspaper to whatever you don't want to get paint on, use engine primer on bare spots, and start spraying. I don't use primer where I am painting over other paint. And it has held fine. I touch my engine up every year of so to keep it looking good. I get compliments on my engine appearance frequently. After you paint it the first time, you just have to touch it up from time to time. Check it out.... Here is a pic.
#7
Main Message Board / Re: cabin sole
April 22, 2015, 10:52:46 AM
I left my floor boards natural. Epifanies said that the Mat Finish is a harder finish and that is what they recommend for varnishing the teak and holly sole. They said that the high gloss is softer and not recommended for walking on. However, they told me that you can use high gloss to build up your initial coats, since the mat finish does not recommend cutting with mineral spirits. So I used Epifanes High Gloss for the first four coats. The first three were cut 50%, 25% then 10%. Cutting the initial coats helps the varnish to seep in to the wood better. My final two coats were with the Mat Finish and my sole turned out great. Three years later, my sole still looks great.
#8
Jon,
I started sailing (racing) in 1980 on a Pierson 30. I got the bug. Then I decided cruising was my thing, so I bought a C22, a C30 and then my C34.  For a period when I was raising my kids I was boatless, but I joined a club, and sailed so many different boats; Hunters, Ericsons, Islanders, Beneteau's, Jeaneau's, and Catalina's. I was always a Catalina guy because they had good quality coastal cruisers, at a reasonable to me price point. At the sailing club, they had a C-34 which I fell in love with. Plenty of cabin space, great handling, nice look to me. The web-site was a great benefit. Very responsive and active members. I have owned my C-34 for 9 years now, and I have never ever regretted choosing this boat. There are many boats with many different and various upgrades. Simply find the boat you fall in love with and go for it. You will always have to make improvements that you desire. In my opinion, you can't go wrong with a C-34. All around it is a great boat.

Les
#9
JD,
Think about it this way. When you want to remove a hose to service your HX or any component for that matter, wouldn't you want it to be easy to remove that hose? And, in the case of your HX, you will want to check it and service it every few years to make sure that it is not clogging up. I used lanocote when I serviced my HX, because I do not want to have to destroy any of my expensive hoses. Easier is always better when you are doing your own maintenance. Use the best clamps. Double clamp wherever possible. And inspect your engine and hoses regularly.
#10
Main Message Board / Re: Boiling Heat Exchanger
November 23, 2014, 07:29:57 PM
I bought my new end caps and rubber gaskets from Captains Locker in Long Beach (562) 598-6611. One of my old end caps appeared to have been repaired with solder by the PO. I would have purchased new end caps if they were needed, and I did,  but the solder seemed to have held for the 8 years that I have owned the boat. I watch my boat carefully, so I will keep you posted on how it operates after the CLR bath. But so far, so good.
#11
Main Message Board / Re: Boiling Heat Exchanger
November 21, 2014, 09:18:45 PM
Brian,
I just finished servicing my HX because my temperature gauge was beginning to run hotter and I was also experiencing white steam out the exhaust. I was beginning to run at 180 degrees at low RPM and 190 degrees at cruising speed. So I removed the HX and found that the raw water input was 80% clogged and the HX was in just as bad a condition. So I reviewed the past posts and decided to soak the HX in CLR. After which I cleaned it with fresh water, primed it with engine primer, and painted it with bronze engine paint. Then I installed new end caps and rubber washers. It turned out fine. Also, there were a few tubes that had a blockage, that I cleared out with a 15 inch bicycle brake line on my electric drill. I re-installed it burped the engine, and it was good to go. My engine is now running at normal temperatures. You may want to try the CLR first. It was simple and worked really well.  See the attached pictures....
#12
Main Message Board / Re: Blower motor access
November 19, 2014, 04:08:11 PM
I am with Mike. When I bought my boat eight years ago, the blower did not work, and although I always think about replacing it, I never did. I always thought that when I run out of projects I may replace it, but I never got to it. It seems like there is no need to replace it. Is it really necessary?
#13
Noah has a good point about actual RPM vs tachometer reading RPM. There is the issue of optimum cruising RPM for your prop and engine. Based on your sail number, I would say you have a 1988 C-34 with an M25XP engine. This is what I have. With my fixed 3 blade Sailor Prop, my optimum cruising RPM is between 2,450 and 2,500 on my tachometer ( I am not sure of my actual RPM because I never tested it). My point however, is that in my case, if I increase the RPM above 2,500, my engine works harder, but I do not see any sustained increase in speed. I listen to my engine, observe the temperature gauge, feel the vibrations, and keep an eye on the exhaust from time to time. This way if I notice anything different, I can be aware of what is going on with my boat. Do this and then make up your own mind about your cruising RPM and engine load, and see if there is any difference with your smoke issue.
#14
Main Message Board / Re: Exhaust soot on transom
September 02, 2014, 01:47:26 PM
Ron and Ken:
Thanks for the suggestions regarding the white smoke I am experiencing from my exhaust. I will look into each probable cause and go from there!
#15
Main Message Board / Re: Exhaust soot on transom
August 31, 2014, 10:57:13 AM
As I was saying, ever since I repitched my prop from 9" to 10" I noticed the difference on the engine load, and at 2500 RPM I now have some white smoke (steam?) coming out my exhaust. With the increased pitch, the engine seems to run a bit hotter as well, but well within the safety range. This winter I am going to remove my HX for a service and see if this affects this situation. Also, I am experimenting with slightly slower RPM 2300, 2400 at cruising speed to see how that affects the smoke. But the engine seems to be running fine. Is the white smoke simply steam?