Refinishing Grabrails

[KWKloeber]

 I saw that also, which led me to the silicone rubber pad idea. My concern was, with an O ring you have a single line of defense. As Stu mentioned, with nooks and crannies the attack is up against that limited fortress.  With a large soft silicone rubber pad, I'd expect there'd be less chance of a molecule sneaking by.

kk

Stu,

Are you saying partially lift and retighren the rails with sealant under them? 

I initially used teak lifecaulk, but next time I'll  probably use butyl.   With butyl's holding power, I'm not sure it would be that easy to get the rail lifted without prying it completely off. Nevertheless, don't you think it might invite leaks when reinstalling them without redoing the bedding?

If that's the maintenance routine, what would you think about using something like a silicone rubber pad rather than butyl?

ken

I saw one post where o-rings were used.  That seems like a simple was of keeping water from seeping into the screw holes.  When I removed the rails, it looked like a thin layer of a tar like substance was under the rails.  Don't know if that's OEM or not.

[Stu Jackson]

1.  Just to be precise, mainsail isn't the only source for butyl. C30-ers have used mine for two decades on the aluminum "RV" windows.   I just haven't given it a fancy name.     Shipping is less and you don't need to buy two rolls at a time if you don't want to. 

2.   Anyway, what I'm trying to get at is presuming you have a good seal, no leaks, and just performing revarnish maintenance, you don't think there's an issue on disturbing the butyl to raise the grabs?   Aren't you concerned about introducing a leak?

3.   Also if I did need to re-bed, I would definitely remove them totally to make sure I got the old gunk off the meeting services before butylizing them.  MBMC. 

1.  That's good news.  Who knew?!?     Maybe call it "Ken's Goop" or something refreshing.    I only bought two rolls to make sure I had a long lasting supply.  I'm still with 20% of the first roll left, or I'd try your stuff, too.

2. I agree, but for re-varnishing couldn't one not even need to lift them and just tape?  I've removed everything from my rails and the eyebrow.  I got tired of redoing them.

3.  Maybe, so we just choose to do what we desire on our own boats. 

[Noah]

I never have removed mine, just taped. I've never had any leaks there to deal with (yet).

[KWKloeber]

Stu,

It's funny--not funny ha ha, funny curious. When I started searching and chose the MK-I,  I looked at many makes/models, and really detested the sleek, stark fiberglass, stainless look  of the others I had looked at.
That was when I was still young and dumb. 

Now that I'm old and dumb, there's two words in my future. "PlasTeak" and "stainless."  Yikes.

Two decades ago I read a Sail magazine tip by an old salt who sailed with a his wife's empty nail polish bottle filled and at the ready (with varnish and built in brush) so he could  pull the trigger at any second.

I looked it up in the dictionary. His picture was right there next to "Too much time on one's hands."

kk

[Noah]

BLASPHEMY!!

[Wayne]

I just love lots of beautifully finished teak . . . on my neighbor's boat!

[KWKloeber]

Good one.

I keep searching, without success, for a dock neighbor who loves to refinish teak.

And confuses my boat with his.

[Craig Illman]

I wholeheartedly agree with Wayne.

[mark_53]

Ok, so here's an update for the keep it natural guys since you like to look at others finished teak.
After letting the Watco teak oil dry out for a week I re-sanded and applied Starbrite teak brightener  which contains oxalic acid. Now to let it dry, re-sand, and apply sealer and Flagship.

[Noah]

Looks like that oxalic acid bleach blend worked nicely on your discoloration! IMO "sealer is NOT necessary nor desired prior to applying your Flagship varnish. Just spply 50/50 varnish and thinner for first coat.

[mark_53]

Looks like that oxalic acid bleach blend worked nicely on your discoloration! IMO "sealer is NOT necessary nor desired prior to applying your Flagship varnish. Just spply 50/50 varnish and thinner for first coat.

Noah, your rails look great but why do you say the sealer is not desired?  Flagship can says to use sealer on new wood.  I'm thinking your 50/50 mix of varnish and thinner is essentially the same thing as a sealer by deeply penetrating the wood.

[Noah]

50/50 varnish and thinner would essentailally act as a "the sealer". I just would not recommend introducing another brand product/step into your hard fought journey, when it is not needed and could potentially be an added complication or incompatibility. Keep it simple. IMO.

[J_Sail]

Well, Noah has more experience varnishing than I ever will, but the links below might help (or simply complicate matters).

The manufacturer does indeed suggest that a coat of their own (not someone else's) sealer is helpful in creating a good bond to bare teak.
http://iboats.com/mall/image/pdfs/Flagship-Varnish.pdf

However, other users do not necessarily agree:
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?134161-Sanding-Sealer-prior-to-Varnish

My guess is that either will work. Noah speaks from years of experience.

Jeremy

[Noah]

Varnishes and clear wood finishes brands and techniques are very personal and often subjective. I am currently a fan of Epifanse products, but over the years I have liked Captains varnish as well. If Flagship "wants" you to use their special sealer first, instead of just thinning the varnish 50/50, I can see no draw back to this, but keep within their brand system of products (thinners, dryers, etc.).  However, the skeptic in me could think that their "sealer step" MAY just be a marketing ploy to sell an additional product.