SmartPlug Install Wiring Question

[Sailing48N]

I'm installing a SmartPlug shore power inlet and the AC wire came up a few inches short.

I'm assuming that the best option would be to replace the entire length of wire.

Is there an easier option that would be OK to use in this situation? Would adding a terminal block in the lazarette be an option?

If not, how do I access the run of wire behind or under the head? (not sure how it's routed)

Thanks in advance...

[KWKloeber]

Russell,

I haven't seen anything in ABYC that prevents you putting butt crimp splices on there. I would do that before putting a term block, which means more crimps and connections (corrosion, V loss - although with 120v that's not a big concern.)  Just use the best butt crimps (FTZ brand) and a GOOD crimper (that means NO vice grips.)

IIWMC, I wouldn't go to the expense/pain of replacing the cable -- I'd stagger the crimps on the 3 conductors, so they're not in one bunch, and then cover the slice area with a decent covering (pvc vinyl hose?) and heat shrink over the ends.  Or use Mil spec heavy wall heat shrink over the connection (myself <- use 2 layers, but I tend to overkill somewhat.)

Another way to look at is, now that you went one small step for man (the SP), it's a perfect time to add an ELCI breaker in the laz and add a super level of human protection to your boat for yourself and passengers. Then, after you add that protection you can theoretically remove the bond wire between the 12v neg buss and 120v green earth block, and eliminate ANY CHANCE of galvanic corrosion due to leakage from other boats on the elec grid.

If you need any mil spec AHS I have some I can drop in the mail.

ken

*** ooops, sorry I misspoke -- I shouldn't have said a laz, which is aft.  It's a sail locker.

[Jon W]

I had the same problem. For now I made white, black, green extensions butt connected and adhesive lined heat shrink to the original.

On my boat the AC cable runs from the shore connection through the plywood bulkhead in your photo along the tops of the cabinets in the head and by the navigation station then down along the holding tank vent and pump out hoses to behind the main distribution panel.

[mainesail]

Russell,

I haven't seen anything in ABYC that prevents you putting butt crimp splices on there.

ABYC E-11
"11.14.4.3 INSTALLATION - AC
11.14.4.3.1 All connections normally carrying current shall be made in enclosures to protect against shock hazards."


Now would be an opportune time to add a Blue Sea surface mount ELCI...

[Craig Illman]

On my 1990 C30, the original wiring was 12 gauge, probably my 1991 C34 was as well. When I upgraded to the Smartplug on my C30, I upgraded to 10 gauge for the 30A AC circuit. An ELCI would be a nice improvement too.

Craig

[KWKloeber]

Sorry I don't read that as applying to this.

Common sense says it applies to open connections at terminal strips, breakers, buss bars, fixtures, where a finger could accidently hit the post or screw head.

There's no greater "shock" hazard if the conductor is butt crimped, covered with an AHS butt, and then covered with multiple covers of Mil spec HST -- than there is a shock hazard for a wire with PVC insulation inside a NM cable sheath.

kk

Russell,

I haven't seen anything in ABYC that prevents you putting butt crimp splices on there.

ABYC E-11
"11.14.4.3 INSTALLATION - AC
11.14.4.3.1 All connections normally carrying current shall be made in enclosures to protect against shock hazards."


Now would be an opportune time to add a Blue Sea surface mount ELCI...

[mainesail]

Ken,

It does apply here. You can use butt splices on DC but if you use them on AC they need to be in an enclosure/box..

[KWKloeber]

Ken,

It does apply here.

RC

Explain how does that POSSIBLY presents a shock hazard once completed?  It's no more of, in fact less of a chock hazard than a conductor with just PVC insulation and with no butt on it.  Common sense.

k

[sailaway]

Guys connections are always a bad idea prone to failure. Can't be more than 10 ft of new wire 10 awg well worth the work. Charlie

[KWKloeber]

Guys connections are always a bad idea prone to failure. Can't be more than 10 ft of new wire 10 awg well worth the work. Charlie

Charlie, would you then say we shouldn't have any butt crimps on a boat because they are fail points?

Because if so, about every electrical system needs to be ripped out and redone with nothing but continuous wire from point A to point B.

In point of fact, however, butt connections done properly with proper materials, that are fully sealed from the atmosphere, and the cables supported to relieve strain, are LESS likely to fail than connections at a terminal strip or buss that's open and subject to corrosion.

kk

[mainesail]

Ken,

It does apply here.

RC

Explain how does that POSSIBLY presents a shock hazard once completed?  It's no more of, in fact less of a chock hazard than a conductor with just PVC insulation and with no butt on it.  Common sense.

k

If you'd seen the sheer number of shoddy wiring jobs, and horribly executed butt splices, that I have, you'd certainly see how..(wink) This portion of the ABYC E-11 standard is no different than NFPA 70/NEC standards in that any AC splice must be in an enclosure. If you want to use butt splices in DC wring, knock yourself out, but not on AC outside of an enclosure, if you want to wire to meet the ABYC standards.

This really is not a debatable issue as far as standards interpretation. The standards & training are dead clear on requiring an enclosure for AC terminations such as splices. Training material is actually quite stringent in not "splicing" AC wire at all and strongly suggests running a new wire end to end as the preferred method for all technicians. Only when a splice is absolutely necessary should that method be used.

ABYC Training Manual (Current ABYC Electrical Training Manual)
"It is still sometimes necessary, however, to make splices in AC wire runs. When doing so, make all AC terminations inside appropriate enclosures that can only be accessed with the use of hand tools."

"Review Question:

Based on ABYC E-11, all terminations for AC conductors must be installed:

A. In free air to allow for proper ventilation
B. Inside an enclosure requiring the use of hand tools to open
C. In conduit
D. In snap covered junction boxes"


In this case a surface mount ELCI (Blue Sea 3116 or similar), while not inexpensive, would make for an excellent splice point and meet the requirements for an enclosure as well as meeting current ELCI requirements as well as meeting the 10' rule, which many early Catalina's do not meet.

As can be seen AC terminations inside an enclosure are a strongly emphasized & discussed part of ABYC electrical training and it's very clearly addressed in the certification study & training materials as well as in class discussions. 

Keep in mind that while the ABYC standards are voluntary surveyors survey to them and insurers underwrite to what the survey says. In my last continuing ed class nearly 50% of the attendees were surveyors. I do a LOT of "survey upgrades" work so it is never a bad idea to do your work to meet the standards.....

[mainesail]

In point of fact, however, butt connections done properly with proper materials, that are fully sealed from the atmosphere, and the cables supported to relieve strain, are LESS likely to fail than connections at a terminal strip or buss that's open and subject to corrosion.

kk

Absolutely true, but those butt splices, if used on AC wiring, still need to be in an enclosure.  The key words to your point are "done properly" and this is much rarer than it should be...

[KWKloeber]

Rod

We can't use poor workmanship to make a case.  Apples vs apples. 
Using that approach, a perfect butt splice such as done by yourself inside Mil spec HST, is preferred because Joe Blow could make a crappy splice inside a plastic enclosure.   You can't compare apples against rotten bananas.

Re ABYC: "in conduit", which can be UL spec flexible PVC conduit.  So slip a foot of pvc flex over the butt splices.  But, not 2 layers of mil spec HST (which is better than UL rated flex conduit.)

But still, from a practical common sense point of view -- explain how making a perfect butt splice inside two layers of mil spec HST, is a "shock hazard."  Under what condition is it a shock hazard?  A practical example?

I agree, all things equal (which they NEVER are) no splice in ANY cable is preferred.

NEC allows butt splicing of direct buried cables -- using a waterproof splice kit.  Is that not a hazard?

All codes have to be taken with common sense when necessary.
Is the SmartPlug a listed shore cable connection type (ie, ABYC E-11, Figure 12?)

kk

[KWKloeber]

Examples:

This type splice is used and approved for direct earth burial, but the identical type splice on a boat has to be enclosed in an enclosure?  There's more of a shock hazard on a boat than in the moist soil?



This type splice is also approved for junctions in NM cable (ie "Romex") in dry locations OUTSIDE any type enclosure/box.



Would I ever make a splice like above.  NOT in my house, even if it's code. 
ie. apply a strong dose of "common sense."

kk

[J_Sail]

"Sorry I don't read that as applying to this."

Safety standard interpretation is distinct from our own beliefs of what is safe or not. Even if we can make an excellent technical argument that in a given instance a particular practice may be safe, that does not mean the standard doesn't apply. The ABYC standard is very clear on the matter, and no amount of arguing about the reliability of a carefully made splice protected with heat shrink tubing is going to change that.

In the case in point, I do not accept the argument that an inline splice protected solely by heat shrink tubing should be allowed.

"There's no greater "shock" hazard if the conductor is butt crimped, covered with an AHS butt, and then covered with multiple covers of Mil spec HST -- than there is a shock hazard for a wire with PVC insulation inside a NM cable sheath."

The standard takes into account the risk that heavy/sharp metal objects may get thrown against a splice that is not enclosed (e.g. an anchor tossed into a compartment), as well as a number of other potential risks. Heat shrink tubing is not as resistant to chafing and cutting as the the original sheathing on approved 120 VAC cable. Personally I would not even for a moment entertain leaving a section of 120 VAC wire exposed to physical abuse if the sheathing were not intact.

If you can be 100% certain that the splice will never be subject to any mechanical stress that could chafe or cut the heat shrink tubing, or in any other way damage the splice, you are free to violate the standards on your own boat. But, that does not make it code compliant.

On a separate note, in the original post's photos there appears to be a section of 120 VAC cable disappearing behind what looks like an aluminum plate. Is it sufficiently protected there against chafing on the edge of the metal?