Recommendations on where to locate 3way bilge switch

[NewToTheRoad]

Looking to install a new Rule 3800 bilge pump with a Float switch and a 3way auto/manual/off switch to replace the existing toggle on/off switch at the main panel,

My question is where is the best place to install the 3way switch?  Logically it could go somewhere near the existing control panel at the nav station adjacent to all other switches.  Another option is to put it just above the door access panel to the water heater.  My thought on this is that it is a short run to the battery and simple to snake.  But then would I want to add a bus to the battery area for ease of this and future connections?  Not sure hooking to a terminal directly is best practice.

If I were to locate it near the control panel would I just get power from where it goes into the A/British switch (from the batteries)?

Note:  I'm a total newbie at this stuff and trying to learn as much as I can from  previous postings so please bear with my ignorance.  It will be my first wiring job toward an eventual system and battery capacity upgrade in a year or two.

Thanks,
  Bryan

[KWKloeber]

Bryan

If you're going to do a major upgrade in the future, I wouldn't sweat about adding a buss -- it's perfectly acceptable to directly connect to a battery terminal, so long as the lead is fused. Heaviest load (battery cable) goes closest to the battery. then successively less loads on top.

-k

[Jon W]

Hi Bryan. I just completed adding a Rule 3700 with float switch as a backup to my existing Rule 1500 electric bilge pump and float switch. I installed on/off/auto dedicated circuit breakers for each pump on my main distribution panel to keep as much electrical system management as possible in one location. I also removed inline check valves, and added proper anti-siphon loops for both pumps. For reference I have a write up of the bilge pump system upgrade in the Tech WIKI under the "Leaks" category.

Are you adding the 3700 as a 2nd electric bilge pump or will it be the only electric bilge pump?

[NewToTheRoad]

I think I saw yours Jon but I will take another loOK.  This will be my only pump.

BTW, the 3 way is fused.  Will I need an additional fuse.

[NewToTheRoad]

Yeah Jon I totally borrowed your vented loop idea and already ran the loop and hoses. 
My original was 1.5" with same size hull outlet so that was my driver in selection of hose and pump - all 1.5"

Your main panel looks different than mine, perhaps it's been upgraded.  Mine from 1987 doest look like it will accept a modular replacement.  So I think I will have to cut a hold fir the 3way Rule rocker switch that I bought.

If I do locate near the panel do I get power and ground from the panel area or the battery compartment?

[Jon W]

It's worth thinking whether the 3700 is the right choice for your primary/only electric bilge pump. The 3700 can draw as much as 20 amps continuously when it is running which will tax your batteries. I kept the 1500 as the primary for that purpose. I hope the 3700 never runs, but when I need it I have it ready to go.

[Jon W]

My main distribution panel is an upgrade from the original 1987 panel. I made that change as part of my major electrical upgrade, also in the Tech Wiki under "Electrical" category. Originally my bilge on/off/auto switch was mounted to the battery compartment bulkhead next to the water heater door. It connected directly to the battery with an inline fuse within 7" of the battery post. I have an "always on" buss in the battery compartment that the bilge pumps get their power from. I view the bilge pump system as a critical system so wanted dedicated circuits. If something goes wrong, there is only one circuit to troubleshoot per pump. Keeps it simple.

[KWKloeber]

bryan

re: fusing, here's ABYC:

Overcurrent protection generally has to be within 7" of the power source, except:

"If the conductor is connected directly to the battery terminal and is contained throughout its entire
distance in a sheath or enclosure such as a conduit, junction box, control box or enclosed panel, the
overcurrent protection shall be placed as close as practicable to the battery, but not to exceed 72 inches."

"If the conductor is connected to a source of power other than a battery terminal and is contained
throughout its entire distance in a sheath or enclosure such as a conduit, junction box, control box or
enclosed panel, the overcurrent protection shall be placed as close as practicable to the point of connection
to the source of power, but not to exceed 40 inches."

An exception, is pigtails under 7"  long -- say you run and fuse for a 10 awg feed to a pump, and the pump pigtails are 16 awg, you don't need a fuse at the drop down in wire size.

-kk

[NewToTheRoad]

Thanks for the input guys.  Very much appreciated.

Jon, I get what you mean about the 3700 draw.  I chose that mainly based on existing thru hull outlet size.  Trying to keep it simple as I replace an older, unnamed pump, and original, brittle hoses.  And, not get too over my head.  Ideally, 2 pumps would be best and slated for a future upgrade.  New boat, to me, so trying to prioritize.  And, next year will predominately inshore, bay cruising.  Anyhow, that's my logic.  Anything has to be better than the manual switch the previous owner used..

Future big project, probably next winter, will be the 4 battery golf cart upgrade with a solar controller and everything else that goes along with it.  She is pretty much at factory spec right now.

Bryan

[Stu Jackson]

Another option is to put it just above the door access panel to the water heater.  My thought on this is that it is a short run to the battery and simple to snake.  But then would I want to add a bus to the battery area for ease of this and future connections?  Not sure hooking to a terminal directly is best practice.

That's where I put mine years and years ago.  I used Power Post Plus units for bus bars.

[NewToTheRoad]

Thanks guys.  Good to know that putting the 3way close to the battery wasn't just me being lazy :)  much thanks for the recommendations.